Good video. I'm actually one of the Permatex technical trainers based on the east coast. We now offer a special silicone just for rear differentials that you can find at many parts stores. Especially good for use with synthetics.
If you're a Permatex trainer, you should know that there are so many Permatex products that it confuses newer customers. Permatex needs to start putting up charts and graphs on the store displays like FRAM does. I've actually bought JB Weld stuff over Permatex stuff because the JB Weld package said it was for my application, while Permatex had like 8 different products and no definitive guidance on what to use each one for. Yes, there are YT videos, but if I'm standing in a store I'm not going to spend 40 mins staring at my phone to figure it all out.
My nephew showed me some of your videos , he's at the age where most young fellas get into cars . I can say overall you have the makings of a good instructor at a technical school . I don't know if your just a gear head or a professional mechanic . If you are your certainly someone who enjoys his career , and probably does honest ,quality work . As for myself , I went to to work for Plymouth after I came home from Korea and retired in 1991 . If you came into the old North Assembly , I would have reccomended that they have hired you immediately . I was from the school of thought that the men who loved cars were the best candidates to build them. Keep up the good work and keep em rolling ..
@@placeholdername3206haha isnt that nuts? He definitely deserves the success he has had. This guy really did just start making videos with his only intention to help people. Such a good dude!
All gasket makers and flange sealants need some time to cure before the assembly can be put back into service. Failure to wait the correct amount of time can compromise the integrity of your seal. Typically, RTVs require a minimum of two hours to set up and 24-hours to achieve the full cure that’s needed before adding fluids or returning the vehicle to service.
I put my rtv on and let it sit for 15-20 mins. Then i slammed it on and tightened it by guess estimates instantly. The rtv splurted out the sides but it doesn't leak.
ChrisFix Loctite 5922 is also a good product if you want to glue your paper gasket on.. But remember that the glue needs 24 hours to dry. Some people have used very thick bearing grease to glue the paper gasket into the part. It works as the grease just dries off and is squished away when you bolt on the part..
Just a heads up for anyone doing this, Permatex makes a differential product. It comes in a GREEN bottle called “Gear Oil Gasket Maker” and it has even better oil and pressure resistance than the black. It’s not resistant to gas though so it’s good for differentials and transfer cases but not on the engine block. If you have an older vehicle with a leaking diff, a large diff, slip diff generating heat, venting issues… I would recommend the green.
Hey Chris my name is Chris also this was a helpful video on how to make a gasket out of RTV silicone my son was changing his oil well he turned the oil drain bolt to the right instead of turning it left so the oil pan has to come off of his toyota 4runner it stripped the bolt out.Thanks Chris
Seems all good in your procedure. Personally I would also loop it fully around the holes, not just the inside. Although I would close around the holes after I'd done the main run. Anyone else have thoughts on this ? Oh and for anyone with a lathe or know someone that does, I would get a couple of longer guide pins to pass straight through cover and then through the tapped holes and then press home the cover. Temporary studs fixed in the housing could work, but if you miss hit them on approach then your gonna have to fix that sealant smudge again.
I googled "silicone instead of gasket" and who appeared? Mi amigo! Hello!!! of course! If I was going to pay for all the money I have saved with you, I owe you a brand new Corvette! Gracias Chris!
My 1988 Suzuki Samurai doesn't use an oil pan gasket at all. It is like that from the factory. Only rtv. I could never get a good answer on instruction on how to properly use rtv and the diagram in my service manual is old and black and white so you can't properly see the bead at all. Your video has helped alot.
Go to the "Prematex website" The high temp red ATV is incorrect for gear oil. Apparently, gear oil will dissolve the red ATV and cause leaks. The correct Prematex RTV for differential covers is the Green product.
@@chrisfix There's no water there, until it gets trapped by gravity in the convenient little wells we just made, along with some dirt. Better to give it a nice little roof.
RTV under pressure, Adjust curing time, - I'm using it for a swimming pool multiway valve, ive done this before but this time I am leaving it over night (say 12 hours) after just hand tightening it, I am not sure if the RTV gets tacky more slowly inside and last time I did this I noticed a minor leak, so this time I think as the pool multiport valve gets a LOT of water pressure when operating I really want the RTV to be a little more cured before I tighten to final torque, just a thought as I dont want liquid RTV uncured belowing back out and up the bolt holes etc. The valve design (Espana 6 port) is shit anyway and no intermediate gasket. RTV seems fine. I am using a Thai branded equivalent. as I am in Thailand.
True this is a very proper procedure but when you're changing axle bearings on flat rate, you learn that rtv just ain't that picky in the real world. It's hard to use too little rtv and no big deal if you use a little too much. Smear it on, run down the bolts and let her roll.
Should I be ok if I did not let the RTV sit for an hour before torquing down. I just installed and torqued down immediately ... now I'm concerned? Thoughts? It was in a engine oil pan
most likely you will be fine, but the main idea to let it dry is so the rtv does not get spread out as much and makes a better seal, if u notice any leaks u will need to redo it but u should be fine
Aren't the red colored RTVs acetic curing? If so, i think they might corrode metal. I think the grey ones (oxime or alcohol curing) are better on metal stuff.
Although an old video,I want to ask,why you should wait to get tacky? Years ago, at my first attempts with car repair/service etc i didn't wait,so torqued it instantly... Last 2 years,I do that method,but haven't spot any difference.... Actually I'm sure that there is a difference,but haven't spot it yet :P
dissevered I used chlorinated brakleen which leaves no residue. But yes, you are correct, if you are using non-chlorinated brakleen, def hit the surface with alcohol after! Thanks for the tip!
Someone used this stuff on my vehicles oil pan and oil pan gasket. I have a gm 3800 series 2 so having the gasket glued to my pan is not allowing me to get the pan down.
Thanks Cris ! Great Help !!! I am having a hard time finding a timing cover gasket for my 1980 plymouth arrow pickup mitsubishi G52B 2.0 automatic.. so I think i will try the form a gasket . ?? any ideas on that ?
Kinda weird watching this now without that iconic "HEY GUYS!" intro. But your videos are still heck relevant 8 years later. Watching this to know more about RTV gasket. Thanks Chris! Much love from the Philippines!
Im watching today because i need to make a gasket for my intake manifold and im not wanting to pay the 30$ for a gasket since my car is over 30 years old . So a 10$ bottle of the gasket maker is way cheaper and hopefully will hold well enough
I get it, but why not just use the bolts? Is there some advantage to using the pencils? I would think long pencils in a tight space could be a hassle, but I'm new to car work so idk. I'd love to know, I like learning new tricks.
@@DanteYewToob easier to slide on the pencils to the mating service instead of having to get close with a short bolt. Less risk of making a mistake! Sounda like a great idea though and I wanna try it haha
I like to do one additional step to insure a leak-free seal. I clean BOTH surfaces with some alcohol BEFORE starting the RTV bead. I feel the adhesion is better-especially with valve covers and synthetic fluids.
Good video, however I would recommend to do the first round of torquing with 50% of the recommended torque. After 1-2 hours, run the final round of the remaining 50%. Never leaked a single seal for last 26 yrs I have been using this procedure.
Hi, I'm wondering if this would be the same application (let the sealant seat for 15minutes before putting the cover back) for the front timing gear cover? I've installed mine but oil started to leak on sides after some time :( please advice and thank you in advance
You can use 4 chopsticks one in each corner bolt hole in the differential to use as a guide when attaching the cover. It will make sure the pan goes on perfectly straight.
Nice job,have been watching your videos for some time now.However i have some concerns about the method. In permatex products the only gasket maker that need some time to become tacky before assembly are the solvent based gasket makers. The silicone RTV gasket makers all mention that assembly right after you spread the bead with normal pressure so as to for the RTV to spread and after ten minutes or one hour,(depends on the type)torque to specs. The only exception is "permatex the right stuff" which have no cure time,just aplly assemble and torque and your good to go.
twistdshade Good eye. I torqued it down but edited it out by mistake lol. Glad the video was helpful! Definitely consider subscribing! New automotive "how to" videos every Thursday and most Mondays!
ChrisFix Hey if you ever get the chance, post some stuff about small engines. Single cylinder stuff like mopeds and lawn mowers. :) That's all I've been working on lately since the parts are so cheap and lots of folks have old broken down yard equipment collecting dust.
I always use make, model, original gaskets for my vehicles. But a very small amount smeared on can help hold gasket in place while installing. For instance; Ever try and change an oil pump seal in a 97 to 2001 Camry? The gasket never stays in the groove. So works great as an adhesive in a situation like that. Also a little around timing belt plastic covers after that old seal just starts falling off helps keep water and road grime from getting inside of covers. So many uses for this product.
Couple things on this video, as a ford tech I can tell you... If you use MotorCraft grey silicone TA-29 Ultra Silicone, there is NO waiting period. Once applied to the desired surface you have 4min to torque that component to its mating surface before you have to scrape and start over. Fords spec for a bead is 3.5mm which is far thinner than what is specified in this video. That said this video is fine for the application and indeed most applications, save for the different cure procedure. You can actually get away with about a 2mm by 2mm bead in most applications. For example an oil pan where the pickup is sealed to the block with silicone RTV, your going to want to try and use the exact amount of silicone because if you squeeze an excess amount of silicone into the pickup passage leading to the oil pump, your gunna potentially have a bad day with the high pressures in that galley leading to the pump, combined with heat cycling etc, you risk clogging something down the galley circuit (cam bearing oil feed etc).
Now I know why my diff cover is leaking. Watched the mechanic put it on and he torqued it down right away right after applying the RTV. Now I know how to re-do it. Thanks.
...i called 2 and visited another transmision/ rear end shop. All three shops said not to wait an hour before torquing down the cover bolts as the rtv is already set up after the initial wait after you aplie the bead. Youd be 'rebraking' the initial seal...🤔
I've done this about five or six times and not a single one of them has lasted over a year. It'll last long enough for your gasket to ship to your house if you don't have it.
Permatex now makes a gear oil RTV gasket maker/sealant, especially for differentials. It's in a green tube. Available at most Auto Parts stores. About $15. Specially formulated to withstand the harsh gear oil environment found in differentials and transfer cases Specialty silicone does not break down against gear oil friction modifiers Seeks and seals leak paths that cut gaskets cannot Tested to Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) specifications to ensure complete sealing power Sensor safe, non-toxic, and non-flammable
Could I use this stuff on an oil pan? I have an imported car from japan, having a hard time trying to find a gasket for my oil pan. I have a small leak nothing major but I’d like to take care of it asap.
RTV is a bad choice for this application. You got it nice and clean but the bolt holes have oil in them and it will leach into the sealant and deteriorate the seal. Better to use a gasket and shellac type sealant on both sides of the gasket. Unless you really don't care if it leaks.
Just one point, I work in engine production, you shouldn't leave rtv 15 minutes to get tacky, you should fit it as soon as applied to get a full seal, we fit ours as soon as it's applied, just a future tip as over time you might get more leaks 🙂👍
@@chrisfix maybe, that's the problem of my installation, I applied not enough, sealed it immediately and install poured oil right away. I will try your method. hope It will solve my problem.
Very helpful Vid, appreciate when folks give practical advice. Not sure why some people and some instructions, suggest putting a bead AROUND each bolt hole-to me this makes zero sense since going around the whole bolt hole does nothing to further the seal.
@@davidwasicek9869 Hi, I purchased the ultra black since I have leaks all over now. Do you also wait 15minutes before putting in the cover or put it right away? I had a problem putting it right away, maybe the reason for the leak :( Please advice and thank you in advance
AHH man the little things are so important: clean with brake cleaner, constant bead of RTV inside of bolt holes, leave for 15 mins before hand tighten, then torque spec after 1 hour. Leave for 24 hours before use. The can has no instructions on it at all! Just temperature specs and what it is. Thanks for the video.
I do this but I spread it thinner over the whole bolt area with my finger. Then I put the oem gasket on that, making sure to line the holes up, then let it dry face down on a piece of cardboard with some weight on top of it. Once that's dry I spread a thin layer on the opposite side of gasket, put pan on vehicle finger tight, then torque after 20 minutes. After 1 hour I add fluid and test drive. In the 30 years I've been doing this never had a single leak. In my opinion a lot of people that have leaks are doing this when it's too cold outside. Remember RTV stands for (room temperature vulcanization).
