Great video. However, where did you get the information that states to use the NGK plugs? My label under the hood specifies to use Champion copper plus plugs RC12ECC. I bought the NGK on your suggestion and I'm sure they will work fine. Just curious where you got that information from. I didn't see my label until the moment I was ready to swap them out and was too lazy to go swap them out at the store. Just changed them and car is running smooth again and no codes. My old plugs where Champion and looked great, just the gap was at .045 to .050. Thanks again.
@brianrepelin5545 So while I couldn't find anything directly stating NGK is *required*, many forums and pages reveal NGK was what Jeep used from the factory in 2000-2006 4.0Ls. They'll run just fine on Champions but apparently NGKs work "better". It must've just been a branding/ sponsorship change, the spark plugs themselves are really the same, and nobody's had problems with either brand in a 2000+ 4.0L. I've also seen Autolite, Bosch, and Duralast plugs in all sorts of varying year XJs and MJs, and they all run fine. Given 2000 is when the coil rail was introduced, I suppose I assumed based on the fact that 2000 coincidentally was also the first year NGK plugs came from the factory, that they were factory requested, but I can't find any evidence that outright states that. So, if 2000+ Jeep used NGKs at the factory, but Champion remained the requested spark plug, then we have a bit of a paradox on our hands. No wonder the forums argue. Good on you for questioning it though. Without sources, I'm not any better than your neighbor's uncle John, who once changed a starter by flipping the Jeep on its side. Sure, it works, but there's probably better ways to do it. And thus, the mystery is lost to the pages of time. I don't know, you don't know, and if Chrysler doesn't know, then I don't think anyone will ever know. Roll credits.
@@WAEMIDIV it'll just be one of life's mysteries. Don't think it makes a difference, but mine is a federal XJ. I know California (where I currently live unfortunately) can get creative as well on their requirements. Although doubtful, not sure if maybe California vehicles required the NGK. 🤷🏻 Like I said, it shouldn't make a difference with either plug. Mine is running smooth so far. I'll keep you posted if anything changes, but don't anticipate anything happening. Thanks again for this video and great commentary.
I went to a local shop just to get some assistance on replacing the coil pack and learned about the red lock tab. What I DIDN'T know about was the "main tab" and having to squeeze IT to get the damn thing finally disconnected. Glad I came across your video. THANK YOU!
Glad I watched this. I was about 10 minutes from putting iridium ones in my 2000 xj haha. The damn guy at the advanced convinced me to get them even though it felt wrong
Yeah the parts store guys usually know general things, but not vehicle specifics. It is true that Iridium plugs are better and last longer, but the XJ specifically doesn't like them
Super informative, very clear and concise. Makes it easier to learn how to work on mine and learn a thing or two about a thing or two. Definitely earned my like & sub, thanks!
Nice tutorial, when trying to diagnose the cyl misfire i had from what id come to find out was heat soak, i ended up replacing my original coil pack with what i think was a duralast. did it on a late evening one day from work with the sun almost gone, fun times! i had just recently bought the car so i had no clue either. Now im still getting a misfire randomly on cyl 3 but it does not matter the temp. other morning it was almost freezing out and i got a cyl 3 misfire but i still l had power and could accelerate unlike when the injectors are heat soaked and you can floor it, and it will do nothing but continue to sputter. Either way, there is never a day thats too dull with a jeep xj, keep up the good work!
are you sure cylinder 3 is actually misfiring? It could only be doing it on warm starts, but the CEL stays on and stores the code for 3 engine cycles. For example when I was in Florida, it was hot enough for me to get heat soak and my CEL came on every time I stopped for gas, but heat soak went away within a few minutes and I drove for hours after that and started the engine cold later, but the CEL was still there because of the way OBD-II works. But then again, there could be another problem somewhere else. Maybe a stuck injector, or a bad spark plug combined with heat soak could be masking said problem. If you haven't, I recommend upgrading your fuel injectors to 4 hole injectors, it smooths idle quite a bit and they better atomize the fuel, which could maybe help in some regard to at least narrow down where the misfire problem is
@@WAEMIDIV So i have gotten the 4hole injector upgrade and that definitely did help out alot. unfortunately i am still dealing with random heat soak issues on very hot days, i live in SC so 75+ is a normal occurrence where i live. It does not happen to often, normally only when i am driving alot and stop in to say, the dollar store, to get something really quick. Other then that i never really have any issues. That was until the other week where it was in the low 40s and i was misfiring for a few minutes on starup till it worked itself out. I had just recently cleared the engine light so the only two codes that popped up was the generic misfire and then cyl 3 misfire. I have not had that exact experience happen again and there have been very similar days since so im hoping it was just a weird fluke but, i have a feeling its just a small display of what is potentially a much deeper problem. ill slowly be diving into that over time but for now, everything is running fine so im tackling some other projects on the car to clear up some space as ive been building up parts for a while.
@@Stars11222 Sounds like you got plan ✅ Heat soak is a very trivial thing that's hard to trace down, so I promise I will eventually have a video about it at some point in the future. Best of wishes with the Jeep
I broke my red tab and locking tab try to get the dam thing out! I couldn't see the dam thing! Even with a mirror and light. Why and the hell didn't they make a longer pigtail, like 8" to 10" to be able to see it. So the new connection went in very tight, plus I used a couple of zip ties to keep it tight. It fired right up but still have a little rough murmer when idling.
@@Cynyc-pq2pc I have an 01 with 225,000 so I guess I still have a ways to go. That's good to know. Mine did have the infamous crack in the cylinder head. A very small one. New head and gasket at 189,000.
That's man. I learned something extra watching your video. I'm in FL as well. Lightening and 🌧 now, though. My cherokee isn't acting so grand now. It'll start with the help of pressing the gas pedal but won't idle without help. I replaced the coil, but I think it's aftermarket. I must lookup the brand maker I ordered🤦🏾♂️🤷🏾♂️. This truck is making me want to go back into payments🤦🏾♂️
I learned this the hard way.. Jeep didn’t pass cal smog bc I used platinum’s and the NOX was like 4 times past the legal limit top end was running way to hot switched to coppers ran cooler and passed I didn’t believe it when the Jeep mechanic told me to throw them away
I have a 2001 and love it but I do hate that goddamn coil rail. It's a pain in the ass to diagnose when one of them goes bad. Ksuspension has a viper coil pack mod that gets rid of the coil rail. It also frees up a lot of space in the engine compartment too. Check it out.
Pull coils, leave plugged in, arrange a grounded rod along the coils 5/8ths inch away, or so, have a buddy crank while you watch the coils arc onto the grounded rod
The factory Distributor made 18 kV. The factory coil pack made 30 kV. If you do the Viper/Caravan mod those can put out 40-60 kV depending on what you spend. At those voltages you can run iridium. I swapped my 98 ECM for a new 00 with my vin programmed. I swapped the harness, dropped in a 00 oil pump shaft & bought the 6 point coil & wires. The higher the kV the better it ignites fuels with 10-15% ethanol as these weren't intended to in 96-01. You'll get better MPG. Even @ 30kV you can get misfire codes because of the fuel.
So, curious to see if anyone else has actually run iridium to some level of success. I did plenty of research before considering which plugs I wanted to get, and to be honest, heard a LOT of back and forth. I'm well aware of the factory recommendations. I'm well aware that they're proven for 30+ years. But I was curious to test new technology out. A combination of normal maintenance, "big 7" wire upgrade, healthy battery, and alternator have kept my consistent and quick startup (quicker than even my parents' cars start, to be honest) and the iridium plugs have given me no issues in over half a year. idle is stable, startup is fine even in frigid weather. I was very anal about which version i picked as some were built colder and others hotter. I was also very particular when gapping them per the recommendations of multiple people. At one point i did have a running issue that I thought could've been the plugs, took them all out, looked them over, rechecked the gaps, no unusual colors or marks. ended up being a loose positive cable (which i learned that the multiple times that's happened to me wasn't necessarily my fault and just an issue with the tension bolt backing itself out over time. easy fix). But I have yet to experience any issues with the iridiums after ensuring they were properly setup.
Rough Idle could be any of those things or perhaps a TPS, IAC, Dirty throttle body, bad injectors or even a stuck valve. Here's to hoping the spark plugs do the trick
@@WAEMIDIV did all of that but only cleaned injectors, thinking about the 4 hole as well, as far as valves😥😥😥 let's hope its the coil and plugs😅 thanks for all the info!!
@@cangrejojeringa did not fix it, getting new injectors about 1 month out, 4 hole to see if it resolve the issue of rough idle, there the only thing left i haven't done
@@arnoldpaz3442 This is a stock Jeep with, at the time, 225/55R15 tires. An Automatic with 3.55:1 Gears matches 60mph to 2,000 RPM very nicely with the AW4's 0.75:1 overdrive ratio
uh oh well it'll be fine for a little while, but over time you'll notice the engine gets worse at idling. I would change those out before you fry a coil and need a new rail!
then the connector is not all the way on, that's what happened to me in this video. It felt like it clicked back in, but it hadn't, and I was unable to secure the lock tab, which later resulted in it falling out.
11:38 regarding reading errors, I don't know if it works in Cherokee, but in Grand Cherokee you can read errors without a computer ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qcmqMbELZoA.htmlsi=sOJekzBzt7sxScmt
This trick does work on the XJ, but only from 1991-1997. During the OBD-1 years with a physical odometer, the CEL would flash a certain number of times in sequence, and the codes it gave you could be translated into OBD-2 codes. That feature made it all the way up to 97s but not in 1998 - 2001 XJs for some reason. Simply doesn't work
