I have devoted myself to making tutorial videos mostly focusing on Jeep related subjects, but I'm not opposed to doing something else. The idea with these tutorials is to make comprehensible, encompassing, understandable and direct knowledge-sharing presentations that don't have any extra fluff, get to the point and otherwise remain helpful above all else. If you have any questions about anything in any of my videos, just leave comment and ask. As long as you're not rude and angry, the worst possible outcome is me not knowing the answer. Feedback is incredibly appreciated, as are video requests. D wrdvw wkhq, wr ulvlqj deryh pb svbfkrorjlfdoob dexvlyh ha, and I'll see ya in the next one.
do you know if you need to replace the eco on older Cherokees? I just finished this swap on a 92 and noticed im having low power in third and some back firing issues
@JesseMiguelez yes the ECM being for an automatic would cause these sort of problems. The old ones (91-95) can't be reprogrammed, you have to find one from a manual
I had an 01 XJ and currently have a 2000 XJ, both with the 242. I do a lot of driving on snow and ice. I can be on a sun cleared stretch of road and suddenly be faced with a skating rink a few yards ahead or around a corner. The 242 with an exploder 8.8 rear diff works for me. I was wondering about a manual swap with the 242. I was also wondering what it would take to make the 4.0 run with a carburetor. EMP, zombie apocalypse, turned into Cuba type scenario, LOL. Get on that one, will you!
@chrisharper2326 i do have the manual swap fully documented in its own playlist, and I used the NP242 as for the carburetor I can't help, I'm too young to understand them
Too little, too late I know, but if you replace the center pin as soon as you remove the C clips and axles, it will hold the spider gears in place until you are ready to replace the axles. Also, when doing this conversion, it would be a great time to do a lunch box locker upgrade. Thanks for the video and commentary. Great job!
Did my 99' back in 2011....usually film but didn't...Diagnosed with pressure gauge noticing 2 cylinders 'side by each' pressure was 35 on one and 45 on the other...where was my 150 PSI?....simple as pie...ley air out of front tires to lower the Jeep to a fairly level position..Plained Head, cleaned bolts, special lube to Torque back in...14 years later..Off To California any time I want.
Someone working at Peterbilt told me a story that one time a factory ran out of a part (just a washer or something), and they couldn't order the correct part because it was out of stock, so they used a box of similar parts as backup, and when that ran out, instead of ordering the original, they ordered a box of the backups. And they just kept ordering them. This went on for 3 years before someone noticed that they were using the wrong part the whole time.
I know that mine is a minority opinion, but I thought the 2.5 L four-banger was one of the most redeeming things about the '98 TJ that I had. That TJ was ordered, by the law enforcement agency that was its first owner, with a 2.5L four-cylinder engine, power steering, a/c, AX 5 five-speed manual, full doors, soft top, "special duty springs," 4.11 final drive with factory limited slip in the rear. When my ex-wife bought it for me as a birthday present, the law enforcement agency had put on five fresh 31" BFG ATs, new Rancho shocks, new seats, and a new top, and they also repainted it solid black. It had around 36,000 miles on it. For frame of reference, before getting the TJ, I had bought a Suzuki Samurai new in 1987. I traded that in on a newish dealer-demo 1989 Isuzu Trooper RS Short-Wheelbase, which had a 2.6 liter four making 125 hp, and a five-speed manual transmission, as well as factory 31" BFG AT tires. In '91, I got rid of that unreliable POS and moved on to a '73 Bronco with a stock 302 V8, suto trans, power steering, 3.50 ring and pinion gears with front and rear limited slip, at stock ride height on 31" BFG AT's. The Samurai was sloooooooow. As much as I regretted parting with it after I did, and for many years there after, I'd be terrified to drive the thing on 2024 highways. We still had a 55 mph speed limit when that thing was new. It had a top speed of about 77 mph in fourth gear. It wouldn't get to top speed in fifth, but it was lifted 2" and rolling on 235 75 15 BFG AT tires instead of the stock 205 70 15 Bridgestone tires, before I'd owned it for a full week. My father and uncles all had Ford Bronco II's that they clung to like money. In the SWB Trooper RS, I had no problem keeping up with them on the highway in their 115 hp to 145 hp Bronco II's in my 125 hp SWB Trooper RS. My Bronco was actually slower, even with 139 hp and 240 ft/lb from a stock 302 V8. I always thought my TJ was about as powerful as it needed to be. I had no problem merging with traffic in it, or keeping up with the flow of traffic in the mountain passes leading into and out of the L.A. Basin. It had plenty of power and torque off-road, too. But why I loved it so much was that my TJ, in dry conditions, didn't really do one damn thing better than my Bronco did. It wasn't more comfortable on the highway. It was actually less easy to live with in a daily driver role because it was more of a pain in the ass to get in and out of. It generally wasn't better in dry conditions off-pavement, either. Put some virgin snow on the trail, though, and give the wind some time to drift it, and it was "game over" for the Bronco compared to the TJ. The Bronco, with hundreds of pounds of small-block Ford over it's Dana 44 in the front, liked to try to immediately bury the front wheels in drifted snow. The TJ, with its 2.5 four-banger set back from the front axle centerline, didn't want to do that. It was more inclined to want to float the front end than bury it. That was a BIG DEAL to me, because I did most of my off-pavement driving during the California, Nevada, Arizona. and New Mexico upland game bird hunting seasons. One year, I had so much accrued time on the books that I took the entire California upland game bird season off and spend every day of it hunting quail and chukar. That season would have me running trails from October through January, when odds were strong that I'd get snow on trails that were difficult enough without it, like 3N10 and 3N17 in the San Bernardino National Forest. Four-banger TJ didn't care about snow any more than my Samurai did, and my Samurai fundamentally not giving a shit whether a trail was covered in snow or not is why I instantly regretted getting rid of it. Frankly, I don't think I'd have kept the TJ as long as I did if it had the "vastly superior" 4.0 six in it. The extra trail-hugging lard on the front end wouldn't have done me any favors. Alas, the TJ got totaled. I didn't love it enough to bother with trying to buy another one. If I ever do, though, it'll be one with the 2.5 in it. I had mine over the Rubicon five times. People would say I'd puke the Dana 35 on that trail, and maybe puke the 30 in the front, too. But when the biggest tire you care to run is a 31" and you've only got 154 ft/lbs of torque to break shit with, the odds of breaking shit didn't seem all that high, to me, and given that I never had to do a trail repair, or any other repair on the thing, I'd say that the 2.5 is probably a better match for the Dana 30 / Dana 35 axles than a 4.0 would be.
@jerroldshelton9367 excellent speech, the 2.5L is only truly understood by those who have them. I will remember your story and sing of this legendary TJ for years to come
Man big thanks u for making this video u juss made me feel so confident in doing this u actually broke it down to where I almost completely understand thank u for being so thorough on what u do this is a project I have wanted to do for awhile now but was unsure because I wasn’t fully sure if I knew what I’m doing I’m definitely subscribed now ❤️
I've got a 99 two door 4.0 five speed with keyless entry and manual windows. Great for camping and kayaking and still gets better than 20 mpg with 31x10.50s Love it
