Jeep Cherokee: Water Pump Replacement & Cooling System Flush ['97-'01 XJ] 

Well, if by vacuum system you mean EVAP system, I do got a video for that otherwise, the CCV system and other vacuum actuated things I could do a video on

@@WAEMIDIVccv and other , I gota te do mine basically so ur vid would be great help like always

that's a good idea I'll have to employ that trick when I flush it next time

The fogs lights have been a pending project for quite some time now, but I've learned that XJs without them sometimes don't even have the wiring in the main vehicle harness for them. Not even pins in the relay box. So its a very involved swap, unless you happen to be lucky enough to already have the wires in place. I'm working on finding out what years and what options mean which wires will exist, and where.

That's the MJ I'll sell you for $25

@@WAEMIDIV Let it sit for about 5 years and I might come do a will it start video and claim it sat since 1994

It does taste green

Duly noted how long did it last before it cracked? Maybe tons of heat cycles wore it down

It was likely the heat cycles. I towed a fair amount with that truck, and those IDIs can run all the way up to 230 when towing heavy and still be fine. It was probably not a good idea to have a thin plastic cap on a heavy towing diesel truck, but I still won't use one.

I had one on my old 86 CJ-7 for 8 years and no leaks. Daily driver with some occasional rock crawling. It would be nice if they had an aluminum or brass version. T and cap.@@WAEMIDIV

I'm working on it I've got it narrowed down to a 7 day span

I did skip the thermostat, just because it wasn't the main focus of the video, and doesn't need to come off with the water pump. I got a separate video for the thermostat I've used that cooling system flush stuff before, it probably saved my engine block

I have no idea, I've only ever used GMB, I can't really compare brands a water pump is a water pump

There is a small bypass route from the heater hose into the thermostat housing, and it'll also go the other way through the heater core and past the water pump. I have no idea how to get the hose water back out though.

On my engine in particular, this clacking noise is definitely bottom end. It's not a lifter and it's definitely not piston slap, and my flywheel is 100% confirmed to be properly torqued (I replaced it not long ago, and the engine was making this noise before then anyway) Lifter tick is definitely more of a tick, like dropping the head of a screwdriver onto a flat metal surface, and it gets LOUD when the lifters aren't properly lubricated or if a valve is stuck. Piston slap tends to cause more of a misfire-like behavior, and sounds like heavy knocking from deep in the engine, it can vary from light clattering to pretty much a hammer hitting the block. What you hear here is the rod bearings nearing the end of their life, which is probably worse than anything else listed. The clattering is from a Connecting rod bouncing off the crankshaft every time it rotates. This is like, the worst noise, you never want to hear an engine make. However, upon noticing the issue, I proceeded to drive it about 30,000 more miles all over the country only changing the oil as needed, and nothing's happened, because it's a 4.0L and they're indestructible

@@WAEMIDIV I'm pretty sure my engine makes a similar sound, and has been for the past 2 years. 'Near' might just indicate failing somewhere in the next two decades

Wood bleach? w a t is that bleach for wood?

@@WAEMIDIV Yes, it's exactly that. It's also powdered oxalic acid.

skill issue

Yes I actually did use the fitting to get air out, but I didn't want to include that because it may confuse newcomers who just wanna replace the water pump.

If the water pump remains on the engine, you can still flush the block all the same, water will come out of the lower radiator hose outlet from the water pump