Another tedious job on the Jeep Cherokee XJ but a necessary one for long term usage. The door hinge on the drivers door sees a lot of usage over its life and its this specific door that tends ro wear down on the XJ. In my case when I originally removed the doors for painting I couldn't get the torque head bolts loose due to rounding of the heads and was forced to split all the original pins to remove the doors. This meant I had to replace all the hinge pins and bushings which are often never as tight as the originals pressed in from the factory. These aftermarket pins come with a plastic spacer that sits between the jaws of the pillar side hinge and its that part that often fails to space the jaws with enough pressure to ensure a tight contact on the hinge. This results in slop and play in the door which can worsen over time. To fix this issue but still be able to use OEM pins and bushings I have welded in a 8mm ID brake caliper slider that spaces the hinge jaws putting adequate pressure on the bushings and making for a much tougher setup. It also provides a better channel for the pin provided it is greased. Hopefully this video can help others with the same issue or they can improve on my mods. Thanks for watching.
@@dhatsuyuki I will have to measure them for you. I have no idea because it was a couple of winters back when I did it. Its basically the measurement between the two eyes but I will check tomorrow.
@@WorkshoptoWilderness thanks Mike. While removing my pins I bent the jaws in a bit and completely cut the OEM spacers so I have no way of having an accurate way to measure the height. Couldn't find any info online either so I thought I just ask
My dude you have the nicest XJ I've ever seen. The passion and love you put into your Jeep is admirable and inspiring. I'm sure filming makes every job twice as long, so thanks for sharing all your work; it's really appreciated. Cheers from Colorado USA ✌️
Thanks for the comments on the jeep and for watching. I've put a lot of work into it, I really enjoy it and the filming so it's good to hear you like the vids. Thanks again
Right on, I've been a big fan of your bushcraft series for years, learned so much from your adventures so I was super excited when you got an XJ. I got mine not long after! Life is good 👍 Also props to you for maintaining an American car in Sweden, that's crazy to me since nearly any part I could ever need is on the shelf at every automotive store or in every junkyard in the US. Does shipping stuff like driveshafts or axles cost as much as the part itself?
These are still fine with no sagging a few years later. I would have added a zerk fitting to them if I were to do it again. That would have been epic because they would last forever.
I need to do this on my 99 2Dr. The doors sag is horrible with new Pins and Bushings. I will be doing this and also adding the full door hinge reinforcement bracket. Thanks for the video. Looks great.
The reinforced plates that you can buy look worth it. I haven't done thit yet. You could go one step further and add a zerk fitting somewhere so you can grease them. I have to remove the pins to do mine. Thanks for watching
I've found, doing body work, on 4 door vehicles, the easiest way to remove/install front doors, is to remove the fender. This gives much better access to the hinges and bolts. I'll be removing the doors on Project Bumble Jeep (hopefully) in the next couple of weeks to paint and will be removing the front fenders for that purpose. I also have to repaint the left fender, so it needs to be removed to do the repaint. Feel free to watch the channel for this project progress. I could also show some body shop tricks to adjust door gaps that do not require door removal or bolt access. Great job and presentation. God bless, stay well.
I will certainly check out the build. Sounds really interesting, I hate paint work so I am always up for learning more about it for the future. Its expensive to pay for this kind of work so good to learn! Thanks again and look forward to seeing the build.
Was just checking your video list. Which video is door hinges talked about? I’m trying to get my doors aligned after doing a new rocker panel. I think I’ve mixed the four shims up. Not good! Any help is appreciated!
Hi sir my english ist not very well Can you tell me ,you change the 6 bolt in the door it not the original torx t40 can you tell me the size of the New bolt you use ,thank you sir for the response
@@williambaker7668 I honestly cannot remember the exact length. The door is hollow so you can use any length but I would recommend something around 25mm
This looks fantastic but you make it look easy. I’m sure it’ll be quite challenging but it’s on my list of todo’s. Where did you source the 8mm caliper sliders from??
It is quite a challenging job in some way. The warping of the hinge and door alignment takes time. I bought them at work. Its a generic brake slider in m8. You can get them on Autodoc here in Europe. I would pick up some Steel pipe and drill them internally to 7.8mm. That would be better, maybe stainless
Yeah I used raptor liner with a two part epoxy corrosive primer underneath. But it's all clean metal underneath and that's the difference I guess. Lots and lots of hours taking away any rust before paint.
They are the original caliper sliders for the jeep cherokee XJ. You find them in the brake caliper. I personally wouldn't bother with them, instead just get a length of pipe with a 8mm internal diameter. It would be a lot cheaper
Really beautifully done work and a great video. I actually watched the whole thing at normal speed -- and that's saying a lot. I have a 95 XJ with door issues but haven't fully taken the door off and so I don't know what is behind the hinge on the door. I scoured the Internet for pictures of this (door without hinges bolted on) and the closest I came was your video (but alas, no close up!) What I'm still not clear on is if the hinges/shims have up/down play as well as in/out? Thank you.
Hey thanks for watching. Behind the door hinge side is a threaded loose plate of metal thats sorr of locked into the door with some brackets. It can be removed but sort of sits in place with some slight movement for door alignment. The hinge shims have no up and down play and kind of get clamped in place by the door side hinge. But they do have some slight up and down play. I don't believe they should but there is some. Appreciate you watching and thanks for the comment.
@@WorkshoptoWilderness Thanks for your reply. Awesome. Well, I slept on it (not the Jeep; the problem) and woke up ready to attack that door! I had used a thinner shim hand-cut from a yellow plastic Prestone jug on the bottom hinge. It was so beautifully aligned (centered damn near perfectly in the frame) but hitting too high for the striker, and the striker couldn't go any higher. Dang. So I closed it, latched it loosely, bolts loose-ish on the hinge, and shoved it downward until it was better. The door feels like new now, and I have an air seal. That wind was driving me nuts. Thanks again for this video. I love it when people are detailed and also just do things right.
Thanks for watching. These are the stock seats that the XJ's have in Europe. There was a fabric model and leather model and this one came with the leather.
I sprung my 92 drivers door and i was pissed. I still have to half slam it, ; Never back-up with your door open, I found a stop sign ; it over opened the door.
From memory it was on 4.5 amps and 18 volts. I used .8 wire and it went pretty well and didn't blow any holes. I started on the hinge part and moved to the body pillar when using the gun
Mint. Can't wait for the next vid. Any thoughts on doing one of your full interior? I noticed your floors are rubber matting. Where did you pick that up dude?
I have a video on the interior which may help - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2b4PyDhUWAE.html I picked the mats up off of eBay, they are like molded mats specifically for the XJ. Rugged ridge floor mats I think they are called in the US. Thanks for watching,
5:40 a bolt is always wider aorund the threads than the shank. A fully threaded bolt would be a bad bearing surface too so your solution is superior. One alternative could be buying round axle steel and threading the ends for nuts. Dimensions would be correct - no wobble but the steel is usually pretty hardened, making machining difficult.
Thats a good point, the threads would be a bad idea for smooth operation. I wish I took the time to install a zerk fitting to each one. Since filming this I have drilled a small hole in each hinge which allows me to push a needle grease nozzle in and pump grease in them. It seems to be working but it's absolutely not the best solution.... thanks forthe comment, suggestions and info
I have done quite a lot of work on the engine. The most recent walkaround video covers it towards the end. I've fitted an aftermarket cylinder head set, put in a larger turbo, downpipe, larger intercooler with aluminium piping. I plumbed in copper pipe for the coolant lines and made other smaller changes over the years. Egt gauge and boost gauge also. It runs really nice for a smaller 2.5td and seems to pump out a lot of torque. Thanks for watching
You mentioned a gap on the top of a door. I thought our XJ was the only one with that issue. Any thoughts on how to close that would be extremely appreciated! The door itself appears undamaged but you can see light and hear the wind whilst driving at the back top corner. The weather stripping doesn't meet the body of the vehicle. Thanks for sharing your videos!
It seems to be an issue on many XJ's and I cannot understand why. Most seem to wind down the window and bend the door. I tried to close the gap with the shims and adjusting the door and it was impossible. This is what lead me to use such thick door seals but even they have an issue with allow the doors to close properly. I will bend the door in my case from the top, do you want me to do this on video?
@@WorkshoptoWilderness Thanks for the insanely speedy reply!! Yes, I think many of us would benefit from a video. I'm not a mechanic or body repairman, so most of what we (me and son) can accomplish is due to instruction from others. You have already saved me hrs with the knowledge that fiddling with the shims and related hardware won't fix the issue. Thanks again. I can try to send a picture of it when my son returns home, if that'll be helpful.
Thanks for that comment James. I have the same problem and I was wondering if you could make a video to show us how to do it Mike! That would be much appreciated! The problem on mine comes from a bad locksmith that used a plastic wedge to open my Jeep after I got my keys locked inside it...
@@kalipoint I'm pretty sure that's exactly how mine came about. One of those air bags or something. I will make a video on it although lets hope I don't brake the door!
I would love a small one in the garage. I have another room behind the garage so I may cut a door through to it and make a small workshop with benches and tools. I'm running out of space!
