Hey man. I have a KK, same jba uca's. I am about to fit new upper bj's and I just heard back from jba about the bj placement and this is their reply copy and pasted " The ball joints should be mounted in the traditional manner, on top, this provides a failsafe in the event that a trail impact or traffic accident breaks the mounting bolts. The flange of the ball joint is too big to fit through the hole so the suspension stays together and the truck remains under control. If the same thing happens with it mounted on the bottom the suspension comes apart and bad things happen". So I will stick with the normal mounting.
Hey man! Love your videos can't wait to lift mine, just a heads up on a few things! The front diff is aluminum, a lunch box locker will stress and break it when it locks. Use a Detroit Tru track, it's a very high quality limited slip. Another thing that may help you get those spacers outta the rear stock jku spring will give you 4" of total lift (then just find a way to get your extra 1")
ext mit deiner Kamera übersetzen Hello, very nice jeep. On the lift you have the upper control arm from JBA 1.5" springs and the shock absorbers from Bilstein with 2.5". I have all of that too, but the upper spring strut isn't original, right? where can I get those from? I come from Germany . I would be very happy about an answer.
I have a 2011 Dodge Nitro (same as the Liberty KK). I have OME Front and rear springs, Bilstein 5100 front and rear shocks, custom made strut mount (similar to Daystar strut mount), Teraflex front bump stops, Crown Automotive custom made SS braided brake hoses, SPOHN Performance custom made rear track bar, added “hockey pucks” for the rear bump stops, and JBA UCA’s with the new style ball joints and boots. Currently looking at a ball joint spacer to move the UCA’s back up some. UCA mounting pockets have been trimmed for more drop. Also looking into making my own front coil-overs for the future...
Nice! I would like to see a pic of yours 👍 here's a link for the upper control arm spacers this guy makes them from russia just message him about them facebook.com/arm34.ru/
@@FunandAutomotive Figured I'd share my experience with my '12 KK. I tried these spacers out at 4" of lift to try to eliminate spring contact I was having with the JBA arm and OME spring (I have the same lift as you, Bilstein/ome set to 4th rung). Adding them did eliminate the contact however it caused my camber to be wayyy too positive. It looks like your camber bolts have alot of room to be pushed out so you may be ok with them. I attempted to remedy the camber issue with camber spacers that go in between the knuckle and the wheel bearing which did help however the camber spacers I was using are actually meant to add camber, not subtract. I used them upside down as a result and it seemed like it would work. At that point I'd need to do a cradle drop and it's getting cold so I may experiment more next year.
@@FunandAutomotive i’ll be sharing a video when I can. Currently out of state working and have some parts ordered that I need to i stall. Hopefully have a video beginning of next year
@@FunandAutomotive The sub frame is definitely similar, can't say it's 100% the same. I've read that I may run into issues with the steering column, did you have that issue at all when dropping? Unfortunately as the arm raises, it pushes the tire out adding positive camber. If you can find a machine shop to make Camber shims that are the opposite of the SPC camber shims you'll be in business (These: www.amazon.com/Specialty-Products-26014-FRONT-CAMBER/dp/B00N27PSRS/ref=asc_df_B00N27PSRS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312442771380&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12755685511497871772&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002030&hvtargid=pla-572399123678&psc=1). You can flip them upside down but it will push out the lower rear side of the tire more than the front. Here's some pics of the KK as well as pics of the spacers I had on while front was sitting at 5" lift. ibb.co/YkCwRxM (full droop, no BJ spacer) ibb.co/JjSLZXm (full droop w/ 1" BJ spacer, sway bar disconected in pic. There is no contact while at full droop, almost looks like you could get away with 3/4" instead of 1") ibb.co/3cwLDV6 (Full droop w/ 1" BJ spacer. No contact. However front camber is way to positive. Hopefully your cradle drop addresses that without needing extra camber spacers.) ibb.co/5vP1Lrz (The ol KK while I had her at 5" up front. Now Im back down to about 3.75" just straight Bilstien top rung/OME springs) I also had a 1/2" clevis spacer, but in the end, even if I made room for the droop my CV axles would be toast. The arm hitting the spring was essentially saving the CV from maxing out too far since any spacer added outside of the strut itself with JBA uppers will have spring contact at full droop. That's why I feel this setup may work with your dropped cradle. Either way, thanks for sharing your info on the drop, hopefully you can get it to play nice!
Hey thanks for sharing this !!! Nice job Hey so where did you get those 4 one inch spacers for the first part of the video because I tried to fit my struts but the lower arms won't let me
Good video, Jeep looks great. Did you run into any issue with the steering wheel shaft binding with power steering rack OR engine fan hitting the fan shroud/radiator area? Did you find a suitable upper control arm ball joint spacers? Thank you.
Thank you I did not have any issues what so ever with the lift/subdrop I also did not fun a control arm spacer as of yet thinking about making my own though the one I talk about in my recent video didn't work for me
Did you have to do a shifter adjustment with the 1" drop and how much more of a drop would be possible 2" possible? And have you made a parts list especially with all the changes and how much did you have to cut off the new rear springs you installed lately? How much backspacing are you running on the rims ?
4.3 back spacing no shifter adjustment needed 2 inches shouldn't need a shifter adjustment according to the guy that has done one 2" should be do able the parts list is in the description in the video talking about the lift I have all the parts there except the rear springs from the jku could not find stock jku springs online for some reason and I cut 1" off of the springs for proper fitment
you still getting tire rub in the back when flexing the suspension or do you not go to places that bad? every video I've seen with the 2.5 lift and 31s it rubs in the rear.
idk if I have asked before but do you plan on changing your exhaust at all? and are you planning on adding a locker for better 4x4 action? in your recent videos it would stop so close to the top of the hill maybe a good locker would be good.
Hey, I wanna do something like this because I love how it looks, how much should something like this set you back if you want to do it right and good quality?
Just a quick question, I noticed you’ve you bolted the ball joint below the upper control arm instead of positioning it from the top as it’s supposed to be. What was you reason for that?
How’s it going boss, love your setup! Quick question though, do you think I could fit 265/75r16’s on my Liberty with a 3 inch Rough Country lift after hammering down the pinch weld in my front fenders? Thank you!
Another question brother, sorry to bother you, I forgot to add that the Rough Country lift leveled the front with the rear, do you think all would still be good with the 265/75r16s?
I used to until I sold it then ended up buying it back yes actually 1 problem was an 02 wire was rubing and grounding on the frame but that was my fault easy fix
Wow you should return it they have different ones as well for sale and mine stopped working after the first use but when I used it about two three more times it broke in and it started working perfectly.
I have issues with ride. I have to replace front axels because of pinging/weird noise when in four wheel drive. I want to get everything right this time. My Liberty looks like the rear is higher then front not level like yours. I am trying to figure out where turning noise is coming from. I have greased JBA upper control arms, noise is still there a sound like un-grease ball joint ( err err err sound). When I did the lift (2.5 spacer kit) I replace lower ball joints and struts from Autozone. The only thing I did not replace was the tie rods and sway bar links. When I replace axels I what to make sure this is the last time. I want your suggestion on what parts I need to replace. I plan to go with Bilstein 5100 all around. Where did you get springs for the shocks? What ever advise you can give me Thanks
On one of my videos I have the links in the description for my shocks and springs and everything you can get the links from from my videos about the suspension and yes I do recommend the bills to 5100s very great shocks I'm still riding on them now and they're running strong and as for the tie rods I would recommend replacing them along side the end links and for the sounds the ball joint is making I'm not sure I would disconnect the upper ball joint and move it around with your hand and then make sure you greased it enough until you see grease bloating the boot up and for the axle just replace it should be the last time you do for a very long time
What have you done for rear drive line angle? I'm at 5 on the back and am looking at getting rear adjustable lowers along with the iron rock wj upper. Also at 4 in the front I flipped my ball joint on my jba to give more clearance against the spring. But I have ran out of camber adjustment. Looking at opening up the camber slots to gain som more.
I haven't done anything the driveine angle is just how I left it after lift and I did the jba ball joint flip as well. So you're saying the wj upper control arm will fit kj?? And where do I get adjustable lowers been looking for some time now 4 some
It will but a custom diff bracket will need to be made. There are some guys on out there that make and sale them. There is one on our FB page that does. "The Jeep KJ.". Iron Rock sales a kit that includes the upper and lower adjustable arms for the wj. They look like they should work. Ill be ordering the kit just before spring.
@Jake Liberty CB-Engineering has a lot of bad reviews from what I have found. Currently no longer have the fox coil-overs listed on his website. I would contact SPOHN Performance and see what they can do. I just had a custom made adjustable track bar by them and was a helluva lot cheaper than the JBA adjustable track bar (2011 Nitro/Liberty)
I am having an issues with the ride. It feels like there is no give. I hit a pot hole and it goes bang. Will the Bilstien shocks improve that part of the ride?
Curious how your boomerang in the back was to re connect after both spacers in the back. I’m rocking one spacer and it was a hoot getting the main ball joint on boomerang back.
It was simple I had to do it like 3 or 4 times in a row just use a long bar to pry down on top of it then use a hammer on the edge to tap it into place
@@FunandAutomotive how’s the tension on the whole boomerang with the 5in in back? Just with 2.5 it’s pretty tight on the back 2 ball joints. Just actually did that sub frame drop to mine. Thanks for the great video to highlight that little liberty tip. Leveled my front right out almost.
hello there. cool videos of a very underrated jeep. you can see my lib on my channel- 4 inch lift and twin lockers. i was wondering- what is that extension on your front shocks? between the lower spring isolator and the fork? it is silver coloured.
When I did my two and a half inch lift it put my front camber out so I had to get the jba upper control arms to straighten it but other people don't have that problem so if you don't have that problem you will not need anything 👍
Hey man! awesome car! Could you please advise what front shocks I can use for 5 inch lift? I can't find anywhere Bilstein - it's out of stock...do you know any replacement? The worst thing here - I'm in Russia and we don't have anything for KJ at all. I tried to find the same on Ebay, but failed. Thx in advance!
