Jeep WK (NON-Superlift) 4 inch lift - [JJOffRoad Diff Drop, Jeeperf, Tom Wood's Driveshaft] 

Thanks! The WK is unfortunately a dying breed. The prime years for the WK and XK was between 2005 to 2015, back when 4xGuard, Steel Armadillo, Superlift, and others were still around. Aftermarket support just flatlined. I think these 3rd Gen GC’s are the best year of Grand Cherokees. Only ones to come with a front locker out of all generations, including the new 5th Gen WL. Front IFS and a rear solid axle is a perfect compromise between off road capability and on-road manners. List goes on 😅

Dang. Those 4xguard armor pieces are some seriously rare stuff nowadays. It’s too bad they don’t make them anymore. Otherwise those underbody pieces would be on both of my WK’s. Sounds like a pretty sweet build you got going on! Thanks for watching : )

Np 🙂 Thanks for watching

Thanks! : ) I believe they are Spider-branded aftermarket headlights.

I did my crossmember Jeep while my WK was lifted 4”. (Lift kit installed, that way I could crawl underneath without jackstands/no need to remove any tires). Yes, front driveshaft does need to be removed, but you don’t have to drop the subframe or anything like that. I kept my CV axles connected while I did it, so they didn’t need to be removed. Took me about 3 hours to install the diff drop from start to finish at my driveway. I used a combination of a sawzall blade and handheld dremel (small rotary tool) to make my cuts. Be extremely careful if you use a longer sawzall blade because right behind the crossmember is the catalytic converter. If not careful, you could end up cutting not just the crossmember, but “that” as well. If you don’t feel comfortable, you can also ask some 4wd shops for some quotes. I was originally quoted $100 to $150 from a couple different shops to do the small crossmember notch professionally, which really isn’t too bad. I simply did it myself because I wanted pride in doing my own work. Not a fan of having other shops “build” my Jeep for me unless it’s something that requires careful precision like regearing differentials. It can definitely be an intimidating task though…. If you had any other questions let me know. I might be able to help.

Hey! For a while I did run without extending the rear brake lines and it ended up stretching them to a pretty uncomfortable level when going off road. Daily driving was not an issue though. I made some DIY brake line brackets out of aluminum from Home Depot for $7 and I have had no issues with them off road at max articulation. As for the front, you don’t really need to extend them in my experience if you don’t plan to disconnect the sway bar up front. Has never been an issue for me. Just the rear was what was overly stretched.

A 2” block works great for the rear. But be careful for the front as the geometry on an IFS isn’t 1:1 A leveling spacer marketed as 2” for the front may end up giving you 3 to 4”. That’s why I stacked and welded leveling spacers for my particular setup.

That makes perfect sense, thank you sir!

@@justinp9515 No problem 🙂 If you have any other questions down the road, feel free to ask away here 👍. I might be able to help. 3rd Gen Grands are what I do.

@@TheValleyofAwesome Thank you sir! im sure you will be hearing from me! do you happen to know what brake lines you got that were longer, or did you have some made?

I’m pretty sure you’ll be fine. At this particular ride height, anything is better than the stock factory tie rods. I chose the inners over the outers because the factory inner tie rods have less angle to work with than the factory outers do. I found the stock factory outers still have quite a bit of flexibility before being maxed out, even at 4” of lift. Kind of a leverage effect thing. Ideally in the future though I’d love to have both inners and outers from Jeeperf. Maybe even their steering block risers, though I’ve heard stories of those snapping off road.

--FRONT: -OME MD Springs -Stacked and welded x3 Rusty’s 3/8” spacers with longer studs -Tom Wood’s Double Cardan Front Driveshaft -JJOffroad 1.75” Diff Drop w/ Crossmember notch -Jeeperf Superflex Inner Tie Rods -RRO Upper Control Arms -Pinch Weld Mod --REAR; -OME HD Springs -Daystar 2” Budget Boost Puck -CORE 4x4 Upper & Lower Adjustable Control Arms -Tom Wood’s Double Cardan Rear Driveshaft -Fuel Tank Skid Plate Notch (to clear driver side upper control arm when articulating off road) -1.5” Rough Country Spacers --TIRES: -BFGoodrich KO2’s: (34x10.5/17) -Stock Wheels on 1.5” Rough Country Spacers The only “full” lift kit that exists for the platform is the OME 2” lift. A “full 4” lift kit” for the WK/XK platform no longer exists. (Previously was Superlift and BDS). Any 4”+ lift kit post-2019 is a Franken-lift, or what most people call a “Modified OME”. If you google Modified OME, you will get plenty of results from forums that can help you. As for the 34’s, over the time the springs began to sag and now there is a “slight” bit of rubbing, but only at full lock. I may plan to remedy this in the future by using 1.25” spacers up front. Obviously the wider your track width, the more likely the rubbing will occur, so the less offset difference from factory, the better. You need just enough mainly to clear the upper control arm bolt. I recently got super lucky and got a pair of Superlift steering knuckles from a good mutual friend on social media, so my WK will eventually be running a modified Superlift with a 6”+ lift later this summer.

2” inch lift > 4”+ lift/Superlift. As an owner of 2 WK’s now, this is unfortunately the truth. My same silver WK in this video now runs on a 5” Modified Superlift and I’m having to change CV axles after every 2 to 3 hard-wheeling trips.

Are you talking about the front uppers or the adjustable Core 4x4 ones in the rear? The RRO ones on the front are still doing fantastic after over 6 years and 40,000 miles. I run both RRO and JBA on 2 different WK’s and both are great over stock arms. As for the rears, I did install those adjustable rear arms after fitting 34 x 10.5/17 tires. They’re also working great. They helped with setting the rear pinion angle correctly for the rear double cardan driveshaft

My alignment is spot-on, no issues. However I’ve heard stories of some shops skipping adjustment of camber on the lower control arms. Mostly because it’s not an adjustment point that people are commonly aware of. Without camber adjustment on the LCA’s, it does result in a bit of bump steer.

I have issues with my. I have the Jba uca with 5100 and ome springs with 2 inch spacer. So 4 inches but I can't get the alignment to fall in.

@@anthonyzxc12 Here. The guy in this video better explains what I’m trying to say. Essentially it’s an adjustment point that a lot of shops glance over/miss: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ol4hq50bv80.htmlsi=fw33aDKznnybMV43

I’m not exactly sure what you’re trying to ask. I’m assuming you said you’re trying to “level” it out? A 2.5” spacer up front would give you a little more lift than expected up front due to suspension geometry. It’s not a true 1:1 ratio like the rear end. A 2.5” spacer up front would give you more realistically 4” of lift. That’s why most folks at 2”-3” who want to level their WK/XK’s will do Old Man Emu Springs/Adjustable Bilstein 5100’s up front, then add 3/8 spacer to level it out as needed.

Yay