It’s that little snap ring that makes it really difficult to get it in. What I did was remove that little snap ring on the end, took a pair of vice grips and “pressed” the ring into a slightly smaller diameter, then re-installed the snap ring. Have not had any issues 10,000+ miles later

I know that sounds kind of confusing. Let me know if you need more explanation. But you’re basically just shrinking the diameter of that snap ring a tad bit more to fit into the diff, then installing it that way. Once it’s shrunken down a bit, re-install the axle nut partially on the wheel bearing end of the shaft (to protect the threads), make sure the axle shaft is straight-on, then tap it in the rest of the way with a hammer or mallet.

@@TheValleyofAwesome that did the trick! Thanks!

Hey! For a while I did run without extending the rear brake lines and it ended up stretching them to a pretty uncomfortable level when going off road. Daily driving was not an issue though. I made some DIY brake line brackets out of aluminum from Home Depot for $7 and I have had no issues with them off road at max articulation. As for the front, you don’t really need to extend them in my experience if you don’t plan to disconnect the sway bar up front. Has never been an issue for me. Just the rear was what was overly stretched.

A 2” block works great for the rear. But be careful for the front as the geometry on an IFS isn’t 1:1 A leveling spacer marketed as 2” for the front may end up giving you 3 to 4”. That’s why I stacked and welded leveling spacers for my particular setup.

That makes perfect sense, thank you sir!

@@justinp9515 No problem 🙂 If you have any other questions down the road, feel free to ask away here 👍. I might be able to help. 3rd Gen Grands are what I do.

@@TheValleyofAwesome Thank you sir! im sure you will be hearing from me! do you happen to know what brake lines you got that were longer, or did you have some made?

That would make a lot of sense. Thanks for that bit of info 🙏

The front skid plate mounts to the crossmember/support that sits directly below the radiator and also ties in the lower portion of the plastic factory bumper to it via 3 bolts. I haven’t had any issues in rocky areas and have found it to be plenty strong. No front-face protection though, meaning anything past that is exposed, but it would take something really (and I mean REALLY) dumb to break your radiator that way. Something like flying road debris and not really any kind of damage that would happen off road.

2” inch lift > 4”+ lift/Superlift. As an owner of 2 WK’s now, this is unfortunately the truth. My same silver WK in this video now runs on a 5” Modified Superlift and I’m having to change CV axles after every 2 to 3 hard-wheeling trips.

“HHP/High Horse Performance” will make a TCM for us WK/XK folks who have the older model NGC3 (non-CAN) controllers that don’t allow you to change the gear ratio by traditional tuning. But that was only to solve the final drive ratio at the axles. When in low range, the vehicle will still go into limp mode unless you disconnect a wheel speed sensor so that the vehicle doesn’t attempt to detect a constant discrepancy. If you know anything about CommanderJim on Jeep Forum, I wished he had tried this before giving up on his XK.

This video is ancient hah. Yes, for street tires back then, it was still decent. Coming up on 10 years of ownership now with this Jeep. Now on a 5” Modified Superlift on proper All-Terrain 34’s w/ manually activated QuadraDrive II ELSD’s.

Yay

Thanks for watching! 😊

Thanks! : ) I believe they are Spider-branded aftermarket headlights.

I’m not exactly sure what you’re trying to ask. I’m assuming you said you’re trying to “level” it out? A 2.5” spacer up front would give you a little more lift than expected up front due to suspension geometry. It’s not a true 1:1 ratio like the rear end. A 2.5” spacer up front would give you more realistically 4” of lift. That’s why most folks at 2”-3” who want to level their WK/XK’s will do Old Man Emu Springs/Adjustable Bilstein 5100’s up front, then add 3/8 spacer to level it out as needed.

--FRONT: -OME MD Springs -Stacked and welded x3 Rusty’s 3/8” spacers with longer studs -Tom Wood’s Double Cardan Front Driveshaft -JJOffroad 1.75” Diff Drop w/ Crossmember notch -Jeeperf Superflex Inner Tie Rods -RRO Upper Control Arms -Pinch Weld Mod --REAR; -OME HD Springs -Daystar 2” Budget Boost Puck -CORE 4x4 Upper & Lower Adjustable Control Arms -Tom Wood’s Double Cardan Rear Driveshaft -Fuel Tank Skid Plate Notch (to clear driver side upper control arm when articulating off road) -1.5” Rough Country Spacers --TIRES: -BFGoodrich KO2’s: (34x10.5/17) -Stock Wheels on 1.5” Rough Country Spacers The only “full” lift kit that exists for the platform is the OME 2” lift. A “full 4” lift kit” for the WK/XK platform no longer exists. (Previously was Superlift and BDS). Any 4”+ lift kit post-2019 is a Franken-lift, or what most people call a “Modified OME”. If you google Modified OME, you will get plenty of results from forums that can help you. As for the 34’s, over the time the springs began to sag and now there is a “slight” bit of rubbing, but only at full lock. I may plan to remedy this in the future by using 1.25” spacers up front. Obviously the wider your track width, the more likely the rubbing will occur, so the less offset difference from factory, the better. You need just enough mainly to clear the upper control arm bolt. I recently got super lucky and got a pair of Superlift steering knuckles from a good mutual friend on social media, so my WK will eventually be running a modified Superlift with a 6”+ lift later this summer.

I did my crossmember Jeep while my WK was lifted 4”. (Lift kit installed, that way I could crawl underneath without jackstands/no need to remove any tires). Yes, front driveshaft does need to be removed, but you don’t have to drop the subframe or anything like that. I kept my CV axles connected while I did it, so they didn’t need to be removed. Took me about 3 hours to install the diff drop from start to finish at my driveway. I used a combination of a sawzall blade and handheld dremel (small rotary tool) to make my cuts. Be extremely careful if you use a longer sawzall blade because right behind the crossmember is the catalytic converter. If not careful, you could end up cutting not just the crossmember, but “that” as well. If you don’t feel comfortable, you can also ask some 4wd shops for some quotes. I was originally quoted $100 to $150 from a couple different shops to do the small crossmember notch professionally, which really isn’t too bad. I simply did it myself because I wanted pride in doing my own work. Not a fan of having other shops “build” my Jeep for me unless it’s something that requires careful precision like regearing differentials. It can definitely be an intimidating task though…. If you had any other questions let me know. I might be able to help.

I’m pretty sure you’ll be fine. At this particular ride height, anything is better than the stock factory tie rods. I chose the inners over the outers because the factory inner tie rods have less angle to work with than the factory outers do. I found the stock factory outers still have quite a bit of flexibility before being maxed out, even at 4” of lift. Kind of a leverage effect thing. Ideally in the future though I’d love to have both inners and outers from Jeeperf. Maybe even their steering block risers, though I’ve heard stories of those snapping off road.

My alignment is spot-on, no issues. However I’ve heard stories of some shops skipping adjustment of camber on the lower control arms. Mostly because it’s not an adjustment point that people are commonly aware of. Without camber adjustment on the LCA’s, it does result in a bit of bump steer.

I have issues with my. I have the Jba uca with 5100 and ome springs with 2 inch spacer. So 4 inches but I can't get the alignment to fall in.

@@anthonyzxc12 Here. The guy in this video better explains what I’m trying to say. Essentially it’s an adjustment point that a lot of shops glance over/miss: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ol4hq50bv80.htmlsi=fw33aDKznnybMV43

Thanks for watching 🙂👍

@@TheValleyofAwesome You are most welcome 🙂

Nope. No 4wd low range on “QuadraTrac I” equipped Jeeps from the factory. The only modern Jeep Grand Cherokees that have 4-Low Range from factory are QuadraTrac II and QuadraDrive II equipped Jeeps, which utilize a “true” 2-speed 4WD transfer case underneath. It is possible to modify your Jeep to have low range using an Nv241 from a 2012+ auto JK Wrangler, but this is only possible with the WK, XK, and early model WK2’s equipped with the NAG1 Mercedes transmission. Later model WK2’s and WL’s are too modernized and are incapable of having transfer case swaps due to complexity and engineering design. Which is why I’ll never buy a new Jeep.

@@TheValleyofAwesome The WJ comes with 4 low with quadra-trac 1. Maybe not the wk

It is possible to run a TC cable shifter if you run it through the same grommet where your transmission cable runs through, so no cutting or drilling a of a new hole is required. The mounting position for the knob itself may be to the right of the transmission knob in that little rectangular cubbie. Though I do see the possibility of having to extend the TC cable-end via welding. But I’ve also heard of companies out there who make custom-length transfer case shifter cables so it shouldn’t really be an issue. The reason I went past the NV245 TC (what comes factory with the QT2/QD2 WK and XK’s) is because those are electronically activated, and without proper FDCM flashing from the dealership (which some have tried and failed), this is an extremely stressful parts. Essentially my preference was mechanical gears vs electronically controlled gears. Less room for failure. People have tried the NV245 route and failed unfortunately. Theoretically, even if I couldn’t make a proper shifter for the NV241, it would still be possible to crawl under the Jeep and pull the lever by hand. (Giving me 2WD, 4WD HI, N, and 4WD LOW). Granted I would definitely need wheel chocks to put the WK in and out of low range using this method. But I’m sure that I won’t encounter any real issues installing a center console TC shifter. Thanks for watching! : )

They are Steel Armadillo Rock Sliders. Unfortunately the owner retired and this is now a discontinued product. However, there’s rumors that a new owner bought the company out from him, so there’s a chance that they may sell again in the future.

The basket is a Surco safari rack. I believe it’s a 50” x 60”, but if I had to do it again, I would’ve chose the 50” x 72” option. And yes they’re mounted to the factory roof rack rails but use their own included cross bars that come with the rack in the box. Pretty decent weight capacity on it too as I’m able to stand on it and mount solar panels to the top. Also made of aluminum so I never have to really worry about it rusting. I also run the actual Gobi Ranger rack on my 2nd WK. (Planning to make a video on that soon) and that’s also great, if not better. Much better load capacity, has the ability mount a roof rack tent onto the existing rack, but requires factory roof rack rails to be removed. A little more pricier though. The Surco Safari rack setup is definitely more budget friendly at just under $500.

Thanks! The WK is unfortunately a dying breed. The prime years for the WK and XK was between 2005 to 2015, back when 4xGuard, Steel Armadillo, Superlift, and others were still around. Aftermarket support just flatlined. I think these 3rd Gen GC’s are the best year of Grand Cherokees. Only ones to come with a front locker out of all generations, including the new 5th Gen WL. Front IFS and a rear solid axle is a perfect compromise between off road capability and on-road manners. List goes on 😅

Are you talking about the front uppers or the adjustable Core 4x4 ones in the rear? The RRO ones on the front are still doing fantastic after over 6 years and 40,000 miles. I run both RRO and JBA on 2 different WK’s and both are great over stock arms. As for the rears, I did install those adjustable rear arms after fitting 34 x 10.5/17 tires. They’re also working great. They helped with setting the rear pinion angle correctly for the rear double cardan driveshaft

Np 🙂 Thanks for watching

Dang. Those 4xguard armor pieces are some seriously rare stuff nowadays. It’s too bad they don’t make them anymore. Otherwise those underbody pieces would be on both of my WK’s. Sounds like a pretty sweet build you got going on! Thanks for watching : )

As of now, I'm actually an owner of 2 WK series of Grand Cherokee. The first Jeep in this video (same Jeep that was my 1st car back when I was 16) does NOT have low range, but has aftermarket ELSD's front and rear. However, my 2nd 2008 WK that has QuadraDrive II "does" have low range + front and rear factory ELSD's. Absolutely phenomenal off road and also came factory with a pretty powerful 5.7 V8 HEMI under the hood. If you look for a little silver T-handle next to the transmission gear shifter, it should tell you the difference between whether yours is equipped with QuadraTrac I (no low range if missing) or a QuadraTrac II/QuadraDrive II (with low range if present).

@@TheValleyofAwesome ya that is what i figured out, there was not t-handle on that one, i am used to jeep jk unlimited or Tj didn't know they had version that didn't have low gear. thanks

How can I transform my jeep into quadratrac 11? Do you have a video of the process? Actually doing it? Please let me know.

@@Saludtotal48 QuadraTrac #11 doesn't exist. But what I did do was put QuadraDrive II Front and Rear 3.73 axles with ELSD. This still makes it QuadraTrac I because there's no transfer case swap. It's simply "QuadraTrac I w/ QD2 axles". I may make a video soon explaining it on this channel, but idk. This channel's kinda cringe since it was something I started back when I was 17. But the process is about as simple as it sounds: swapping out axles and manually wiring the ELSD's to toggle switches. Overall my WK (Rocky) is still missing low range, but the ELSD/lockers lock up to 100% and it makes my WK an absolute tank. I've been able to 1-shot certain obstacles that took multiple tries with my friends who own JK Wranglers. It's actually insane. Goes to show how important lockers are off road.

@@TheValleyofAwesome Yes I meant Quadratrac 2. What is the aproximate price to do this? thanks

@@Saludtotal48 It all depends on what deals you can get for the axles and parts. My parts for the front and rear axles costed roughly $1,200. (Front diff was more expensive at around $630 whereas the rear one was I was able to bargain the price down to $550). Also throw in some brand new diff oil and RTV gasket maker for resealing diff cover as the rear one was leaking initially and it might've been a little more price-wise if I can recall. Paid nothing for labor because I did it myself. Timewise, it took me about 2 weeks in my garage with some buddies to pull the old diffs out. They're pretty dang heavy. Once again, this is not a QuadraTrac II conversion. No transfer case swap happened and the only difference is that QD2 lockers front and rear + 3.73 gears were added. There is still NO low range, but that becomes a disappearing issue with lockers now. That's the only difference apart from being a regular QT1 Jeep.

I actually completed this trail not too long ago this summer 👍 (same Jeep too). However, a lot of it is due to the fact that I was using QuadaDrive II front and rear axles. Bought a set and have them manually activated them via toggle switches near my steering wheel. It was a 2-week DIY project in the making, but my WK is a literal tank now. No 4 Low required. Just goes to show that torque management is super important when you don't even have that much torque coming from the wheels to begin with. BLD by itself simply doesn't cut it.

@@TheValleyofAwesome How can I do the same? I have the same jeep and even the same year!! would like to do this conversion...

Have been running (at least the front end with Old Man Emu springs) for over 40,000 miles and plenty of off road and overland trips in between. Have had half of the front-end high off the ground in the past where BLD kicked in with zero issues whatsoever. Plenty of other WK owners have done the same as well...... Still running on stock CV's. In this video I had 1.5" Daystar rear pucks in the back that has since been replaced with OME HD springs. So yes I have gone even higher in the rear. Still with zero issues. Spacer lifts on an IFS setup is asking for bad Juju to happen. The geometry angles you get with a budget boost spacer lift are not nearly as great as what you'd get from a true coil spring lift. (In essence: You get what you pay for). After adding some more heavy armor, a rear ladder, and a roof basket to my Jeep, my lift has sunk to about 2.5" in total lift front and rear (21.5" Center of Hub to Fender).

Hi there. I read an article on Jeep forum that speaks about this particular issue: www.jeepforum.com/threads/2006-3-7-wont-start-when-hot.4208609/ Apparently our WK series Jeep Grand Cherokees have issues with faulty fuel injectors (that leak slightly). Someone quoted: "when the car is stopped long enough for some fuel to drain into the cylinder, but not long enough for it to evaporate, it cannot start, as the mixture is too rich to inflame." The individual replaced their old fuel injectors and never had a problem again. It seems to be a common reoccurring theme with Jeep WK engines in particular (at least for the 3.7 and 4.7) There is also a purge valve that you can press to release fuel pressure. It sometimes helps in a pinch. Back then it was a surefire way to get the vehicle started again, especially during summer. You just need something long like a pen and a rag because releasing pressure from the valve can sometimes spit hot gas. Have to be careful. You use the pen and rag together to gently press the inside of the valve and it releases pressure. If I'm not mistaken, it's located right by the oil dipstick near the passenger side area. It's covered by a very little circular valve cover screw if I'm not mistaken. I'd have to check. It takes less than 2 minutes and my Jeep would fire right back up everytime afterwards. But once again, be super careful, especially when the Jeep is hot. Useful in emergencies.

This article may also help too. Explains the situation way better than I can right now at the moment: www.jeepforum.com/threads/fuel-rail-too-hot-wk-3-7.1428157/

If you're looking for the WK-specific snorkel, this is it: ok4wd.com/airflow-snorkels-jeep-grand-cherokee-wk-wh-2005-2010 You can also check other websites for a cheaper price.

It's a retrofit of a Toyota Land Cruiser snorkel. (Don't have a year model off the top of my head, but I can find out again if you needed to know) They sell dedicated WK snorkels, but no way am I paying $500+ for a piece of plastic on the side of my Jeep. Retrofitting the Land Cruiser snorkel only costed roughly $80 on Amazon. However, if I were to do another retrofit, I would've gotten a Toyota Hilux snorkel. It would fit much more flush to the body than the Land Cruiser one that's currently on now.

I actually removed my support brackets on purpose and instead, hammered the inside brackets on the guards themselves to fit flush against the tail lights. There's no longer a gap in between. I was on a trail a while back and tree branches kept getting caught in between the support bracket and the guards themselves. No noise whatsoever and I like the flush fit better without the brackets so it doesn't get caught on things in the mountains. Have had no issue since and been running that way off road for about a year.

I purchased them on Amazon. Extremely easy to install, although my set for my Jeep came defective (slightly warped brackets). Had to bang out the mounting brackets with a hammer to make them fit properly into place without them scraping my Jeep's liftgate and rattling while driving. If you can, it's better to buy a set somewhere else other than Amazon, like 4WD.com or CarID. Amazon tends to sell counterfeit products that are not legit.

I volunteer for you to go try it yourself mate. I STILL have my WK (now with manually activated QuadraDrive II ELSD lockers front and rear) WITH brand new AT's and she still gets stuck in this same area. The problem is lack of torque to go up that hill. It is a HIGH elevation area. (13,000+ ft.). The higher in elevation you go, the weaker an engine becomes due to lack of oxygen in mountainous areas. It's simple. No Low range gearing to multiply torque + an already weak 3.7l engine is what makes this a struggle. It IS a QuadraTrac I weakness. That said, outside of high elevation areas and stock size tires, (because BLD becomes trash with bigger tires and a lift) QuadraTrac I still does just fine.