Thank you! I’m pretty mechanically inclined as far as brakes, oil changes, plugs etc. once I heard the dealer by me wanted $1200 for this couldn’t believe it. Thanks to your video I’m gonna do it myself and it definitely doesn’t look too difficult.
100k on my 2020 never changed it. Lifetime warranty from jeep on power train and I asked 3 dealers, no need to change. Supposedly the trans fluid has been tested to 500k. No whine in my trans. No shift issues.
Thank you for this, I have a 2020 JT with 50,345 miles zero wining. Time to change fluid. Dealer said drop it off at 2 pm would be done by 5 pm. I don’t trust them !
I work very closely with dealers as part of my daily job and I don't trust any of them. Everything you have ever heard about dealers are well......true.
I watched another do a pan change and they had a whine after, filling it further resolved the noise. They did the same procedure as you had. I also saw another where the rep from ZF said filling it was a 2 day process because the cooler valve doesn't kick on until 160 degrees and the transmission is checked below that threshold.
Would that mean that after you do this process from the video, drive it around a while until it reaches 160°. Then let it cool, have jeep on and go through the gears, let it reach 86 again and check fill plug and add as needed?
Nice video. I read a pdf trans fluid change procedure by the manufacturer ZF and the only difference is when running through the gears they say to hold at each gear for 10 seconds before shifting to the next one. Your video says 5 seconds. Also, they said when running it up to 2000 rpm to hold it there for 30 seconds to fill the torque converter.
Hello. You video was exceptional. However the instructions that came with my filter stated that after snugging the filter nuts to the pan they need to be backed off 1/2 turn.
The filter might of had some fluid in it which could be the difference you’re seeing. I heard they sell a dipstick for the transmission fluid from the dealer. Great video I’m looking to change the fluid in my JT at 60k which is a long while away.
I have heard that as well, including from the parts guy at the dealership, but I haven't been able to confirm it. It would be super helpful if they would add a dipstick.
Thanks for the video. Just about to go do mine now. I haven’t read through all the comments but I also had a whine with my JL from day 1 (bought it new) at the time I figured it woudl go away once the jeep got broken in and then eventually just got used to it and forgot. My Dad brought it back to my attention and when mentioned to the Dealer they looked into it and found the Idler Pulley was worn, (faulty from the factory). They replaced it and the whine is gone. Might be worth looking into.
Hey great job!!! Thanks for showing this. I liked and subscribed. I had researched this earlier with the intention of doing this myself. Questions: 1) I've seen some put their wheels up on jack stands when going through the gears. Did you determine that having the wheels spinning wasn't a requirement when doing that? 2) I've also seen video on other vehicles where they said their muffler was in the way of removing the pan. In your video, with the skid bar removed, it seems like it wasn't an issue to remove the pan? 3) Your video showed that the filter is not part of the pan, which I had seen conflicting information, so it was good to see. Was the original transmission pan seal pooched, and not reusable and a new one is necessary? 4) Where did you find your information on the process? Super job and thank you very much for showing this. Cheers.
1) I have seen documentation showing both ways of checking the level, both on the ground or on jack stands. I spoke with a technician who stated it didn't need to be on jack stands or in the air, that was for safety reasons so you didn't run it into a wall, etc. Take that for what its worth, but I am comfortable with the way I did it and the level of fluid. 2) Muffler is not in the way, the only thing I removed was the skid plate to make things easier, it is 3 bolts and comes right off. Plenty of room to drop the pan with the muffler there. 3) Original transmission gasket was probably good enough to reuse, looked great, just didn't want to chance it leaking. 4) Information came from Weber State Mech Shop, technicians at my work (auto industry), and ZF forums (both FCA and BMW) - The BMW documentation doesn't have you put the vehicle in the air.
@@outofoffice3443 Hey thank you for the reply. I appreciate that you answered my questions. Yeah with that gasket thing, it's better to be safe than sorry. I saw a video, I think it was Weber State Mech, and he mentioned a concern about a bypass valve going from the transmission to the cooler up front, causing concern with regard to fluid level accuracy. Did you come across that or is it an issue that you are aware of? Thanks again. Cheers.
@@CheaperJeeperTV Sorry for the delayed response just saw this. I saw he mentioned that on his channel as well but didn't find any other info on it. I am comfortable with the level I achieved, as stated in the video I did end up putting about 1/2 to 3/4 quart more in than what came out of it but I am not concerned as I have read several other accounts of the transmission being filled low from the factory, plus a 1/2 quart one way or the other shouldn't do any damage. Time will tell. My transmission has had a whine or whistle in it since day 1, so I am mentally prepared to be replacing it at some point in the future. (Dealer says its normal).
@@outofoffice3443 Hey Thank you so much for the info. I'll post here to let you know if I come across anything else new. If you cme across any links or videos that may help me understand the process or questions, please feel free share. Thank you again for all the help. Cheers.
Thanks for posting. The only bad thing is that you are only able to change "some" of the fluid. Most of that remains in the TConverter and you cannot really get that out without removing it or a flush. To those doing this, I would advise never to reinstall those bolts using a driver. It's super easy to strip out aluminum threads.
I had my dealer change at 30k and I don't recall it being all that much. however I'm approaching 60k now and will do the change next myself. I did recently read in a forum that one reason these might be low from the factory is that the filters will need a short amount of time to absorb the fluid. Checking level again after 25-50 miles will probably require a bit more fluid.
nice attention to detail. Appreciate that Wrangler JL has a trans temp gauge built-in, because on other vehicles a scan tool is necessary to track trans temps during the change service.
For a car with a transmission fluid dipstick, I can always check the fluid level and ensure it is at max level when the transmission is at working temperature. And then, drain the old fluid, and add new fluid back at the same amount that I have drained without worrying about putting in too much or too less. And this process does not require the car to be flat during a fluid change. But now, the manufacturers make transmissions without fluid dipsticks or drain plugs.
When it comes to any fluids and filters, other than motor and air, I always go with OEM, ONLY Mopar ATF+4 for my JKs, only Mopar Trans filters, only Mopar 80W90 gear oil and Mopar LSD additive for my differentials. Zerex coolant though, it is the best.
Thanks for the video! My 2021 gladiator with 11k miles: today, while driving down a small downhill and making a right hand turn at the same time, in second gear and on throttle, just as I hit the apex of the turn I hear this whining sound. Like an electric motor spinning at 20k rpm. It whined up, then the sound disappeared. Needless to say, paranoia immediately kicked in Makes me wonder if, the fluid level is just not up to specs here....? Going to talk to the service and ask them to check the level. But maybe, I’ll just change the fluid and fill it back up correctly. Thanks again!
KIND OF A PAIN IN THE A%# WHEN YA DON,T HAVE A LIFT WHEN IT COMES TIME TO FILL WITH A HAND PUMP, WHEN THE TIME COMES. KEEP UP THE AWESOME WORK MATE, STAY SAFE !!
This is just as an FYI, figure I’d share: I owned a 2021 gladiator rubicon that had developed a whining sound in the transmission at around 4000 miles. Kept the truck up until 19k, then started having more problems with other stuff. So, I traded it in and bought yet another brand new Gladiator Rubicon. This time around, I paid close attention to the transmission whine. Up until 1000 miles, nothing. Then slowly but surely the sound developed just like my other one, the same exact way. So far, this is the repro process: transmission will not whine unless it reaches 165 degree. Once this happens, it will whine from standing, rolling and shifting into 2nd gear when in auto mode. Shifting manually will not cause this sound. Once up to temp and starting up hill, or when cornering fast and in 2nd gear, the tranny makes this noise, appearing to run out of fluid ? Another way to repro is: driving 50-55 in 7th or 8th (cruising) and braking hard, down to about 35 then hard acceleration: you will hear the same sound. I am thinking my truck is low on fluid. Will replicate your method of testing and see what I find out. Thanks for the upload!!!
Personally I believe the whine is “normal” ish. I put another 25k on wheeling and it hasn’t changed. I ended up trading for a brand new Gladiatior and noticed a small whine on it with 12 miles on the clock. I also have rented a JL and JT while on work and noticed whines as well.
Thank you for this video! I ordered and then bought a 2021 JL Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon about 9 months ago. It looks almost identical to yours. I too have the 3.6 liter Pentastar V-6 but mine has the new eTorque, which I hate. I also have the 8 speed automatic transmission in mine as well and am wanting to swap out all of the drivetrain fluids with Amsoil. I know what the front and rear differentials take and Amsoil told me what automatic transmission fluid to use in the tranny but I couldn’t find a “How to” video anywhere until now because FCA was saying it was a sealed system. Thank you very much for doing this video. Next I just need to find the transfer case video. But I’m pretty sure it has a normal drain bolt and separate fill bolt. So that one shouldn’t be any more difficult than the front and rear differentials.
The transfer case is a simple drain and fill using ATF+4. I have changed that out as well. What Amsoil are you going with, I have thought about changing over to that?
Hello, I’m a 49 years old woman, never in a million years will think on doing any mechanic of any car into I have my Jeep Wrangler no 2018 and everything change,I’m been doing oil and filter change, with my younger son’s help (19 yrs old) he though me how to do the front and back differential and let me tell you, it was so EASY, there is videos to should you in how to do it. Now my next thing to do will be the transmission, little nervous but with this video feels confident to do the job. Thank you for the video😊
@@lorenaolivagomez I know how you feel 😂. There was only one vehicle I ever felt semi comfortable doing maintenance on, and that was a 76 Chevy short wide pickup that I had in high school and college. But I just got a new Jeep Gladiator Rubicon, and I love this thing so much, I want to be more knowledgeable about it, and want to make sure things are done right.
Thank you for the video. I used this process on my son’s 2019 JL w/ 850RE. I would think that the same procedure would work with the 8HP75 that is installed in the EcoDiesel and 392?? Fill plug is on opposite side but same filter number and fluid. Thanks again!
If you want to do a better oil change , pull off inspection cover on torque converter rotate down where drain plug is at bottom , you should get around 5 qts more out .
I ended up selling this Jeep and buying a JT. When I hit the 25k mark and change the fluid I will give this a try. When draining the torque converter, is anything special needed to re-fill it?
I noticed you didn`t change all the the fluid. I have a 2016 Jeep automatic I changed out the filter and did a full transmission fluid change. ran about 15 quarts all together. I do understand the fluid is very expensive in those 8 speed transmissions. Very informative thanks for sharing.
@UncleFred1989 full tranny fluid drain and refill. I disconnected the return line and would start my jeep for 29 seconds. Let that fluid run into a bucket then refill the dipstick tube and repeat until the fluid ran nice and red again. Those 8spd trannys are hard to work on. You have to know what your doing
I'm just curious, for example. The oil filter is like twenty pounds of torque ... Transmission bolts are 89 on the torque rench ?? I'm just not so familiar. It sounds like a lot of strength
VERY NICE JOB SIR, GREAT DETAIL, IS THIS THE SAME FOR A 2022 3.6 WITH AUTOMATIC, DO I HAVE TO DROP THE EXHAUST PIPE WHEN TIME COMES ??....NEW JEEP OWNER !!
I replaced about 5.5 quarts of fluid during this change, keep in mind there is still fluid in the torque converter that doesn't come out on a drain and fill. ZF recommends changes of 80k miles and Jeep claims lifetime. You will have to decide what works for you, I plan on changing every 40k miles here on out as I am pretty hard on the Jeep.
To properly do this you must completely flush. Simple to do and far far superior to leaving several quarts of contaminated fluid in the torque converter.
can you please describe the whine noise ,,, how is it sound like ? is it like a whistle noise ? and in what RPM you hear the noise ? thanks for the video
How much fluid did you end up putting in? or better question, how much ATF did you buy- including the additive? thanks, EDIT- just got your answer at the end of the vid.
Thanks for your video! It looks like this is by far the only one which is out there at the moment I feel like. Do you know how many quarts of the transmission fluid is needed? I only saw two quarts in your video and I haven't heard you mentioning the amount which was needed for your 3.6l engine... Thanks!
Aren’t you supposed to cycle through all 8 speeds, and at 10 second intervals? Maybe that’s just so it would be a sufficient amount of time to where it reaches that 85 degrees, without having to repeat the process like you had to do. Also, isn’t there a better oil that ZF recommends versus the Mopar oil? I swear, half of these guys say to never change the fluid in an auto. That’s just crazy to me. I just bought a 2022 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon, and I want to take care of this. My first 4x4. Had an old short wide pickup once, but it was only rear wheel. I only have 2k miles on it, so I have a ways to go. I haven’t decided when I’m going to do my first oil or transmission oil change. Many say that your first is the most important. Because today they only break in engines for an hour, and that there will be metal flakes and shavings. But then Jeep tells me they add additives from the factory, and that I want to go the full recommended distance before changing. Only thing I know for certain, is I’m changing that oil every 5k miles with full synthetic.
@@peterc8979 Hey man! Thanks for the reply. Haven’t got a definitive answer from anyone. 100k seems like an awfully long time though. Maybe I’ll do mine at 50k then. I always do shorter intervals than the recommended, and always do my very first oil changes in half the time/miles
If the trasmission is whining you need to add oil! start the jeep leave in park warm up to 86 to 122 degree remove the fill plug and add 1quart and 1/2 more aprox
Great video, was just researching this for my JT. Said I needed about 10 quarts for a complete trans oil change. For the trans oil pan filter, is it just a remove the old one and then plug and play for the new one?
Thanks for the great video, seems like a straightforward process. I think I'd order a new gasket just in case, and reuse the original if looks ok. Then I'd have that new one as an extra if the gasket starts to look "iffy" w/ future ATF changes. Do you happen to know the part # for that filter? Also for that final fill was your trans temp at 86, then you ran it through the gears again to get it up to that 100 degrees that you noted? And I assume you only go back once to get that final fill, not any more cycles? Appreciate you doing this as it simplifies all the steps in the FSB to something us DIY guys can deal with!
I have a 2020 JT Gladiator. I was going to change this out as well. QUESTION: Is 6 QTs going to be enough for change out? I have 6 QTs but wonder if should grab 1 QT more.
I wanna change my 2015 Jeep renegade transmission fluid but I don’t know. I’m scared to. The whole measuring fluid procedure is scary. What if I put too much or too little?? I don’t think I can change the filter. It’s nice to see you can do that on the JL. I’m thinking about getting a JL two door. I don’t mind replacing parts if it’s easy to. I would definitely spend the money to get a new filter and gasket like you did. My renegade tranny looks more complicated than your JL tranny. The tranny whining you spoke of kind of scares me about getting a wrangler now I gotta admit lol.
The renegade would be the same procedure, however, you would have to replace the entire pan as the filter is built in. The JL and JT are the only Jeeps that can replace the filter and reuse the pan.
Does the temp have to be to 86 degrees and then shift to R then D then M2 etc.. first before placing in fluid or after adding new fluid and then go through the temp and shift pattern then check for any fluid that needs to be added
Did you fill with the engine running or shut off? My recently acquired 2018 JL is leaking fluid through one of the pan bolt holes and I have no idea how much is left in it.
@@outofoffice3443 What is the hex size of the bolt for the drain nut on the trans. The 2 door gas tank is so tight only a cut down head will fit in there
ZF is not BMW. ZF is ZF. Their transmissions are used in a lot of vehicles and they make them for other car company’s as private label like FCA. Chryslers current 8 and 9 speed trannys are made by ZF.
Great video! I will be doing this around 50k miles. BTW, why is your instrument cluster different than mine (2019 JLU Rubicon)? The temp and fuel gauge is digital on the ones I've seen...
The digital gauge screen is part of the technology package. It's an option on Sport and Sport S models, pretty sure you won't find a Rubicon without it.
Thought I may help out my friend. Crown Automotive 68362042AA Automatic Transmission Oil Pan Gasket for 18-22 Jeep Wrangler JL. Price: $30.99 Mopar: Oil Pan Gasket - Mopar (68522534AA) Price: $43.11 Personally I would get the OEM part. Only a few more bucks and probably well worth it. Hope that helps
26,000 is a great interval. If you wait to 60,000 plus, you run the risk of of slippage with a fluid change as the fluid accumulates particulates with time, which increase friction. Take that fluid out and replace with new, slippage can occur.
I agree with 30kish give or take is a good interval. Although waiting until 60k won't harm anything on these newer transmissions and fluid. This isn't 1995 anymore, things are much more refined these days and last longer.
More when in than what cameout. I measured it . I have read several comments of others with the same issue. According to manufacturer specs several have been a 1/2 to full quart low from factory.
Hey just changed my trans oil, used Valvoline Maxlife (zf lifeguard 8) equivalent. Put in exactly what I got out of the pan about 6 quarts just drove around and I’m whining when I accelerate. Anyone might know why it’s whining ?
Was it whining before? Did you run through the proper steps and temperature for checking the level? Are you sure it’s the transmission making the noise? The only things I can think of unless it’s the maxlife which others have used without issue.
Yes, I have a 2019, and sometimes downshifts around that speed are rough. I only feel it like, for example, let's say I am accelerating going 20 something almost 30 and the car is about to change gears, but I take the foot off the pedal and let the car ride and downshift alone it feels a little rough how you described, but only when the RPMs are rising to change gears, and I let off without pressing the breaks, I don't know if that makes sense hahaha. I tend to let the car just ride on its own downhill or anywhere when I can to save gas before using breaks. If I see a red light a little far away, I just let it slow down on its own without breaking until I have to. My mpg has improved a lot, thanks to that little trick.
Who knows. Been told yes, been told no. I have heard it on several other 8 speeds. I drive the hell out of it though. If the time comes I’ll just put a transmission in.
