JF017E Rebuild 

Thanks for watching.

Glad to help. Thanks for watching.

Sino eres mecánico olvídate. La transmision no es trabajo de garaje. Lo peor es q cuando lo hacen y no queda van al taller a llorar para q arreglen sus fallas.

Glad I could help!

Thanks

Thanks

Sits on top. Go to my Instagram and I can send you a picture.

Look on the tag in the door jamb, drivers side. At the bottom it should be listed. If not I will look in the book when I get to work.

The JF017E does not have a stepper motor or a ROM on the valve body. I am getting conflicting information. The flip chart says that the transmission is a JF017E, Alldata says that it is a JF010E. That one does have both a stepper motor and ROM chip. I will tell you that MOST stepper motor codes are not caused by a bad stepper motor. Most throw the code because the stepper motor is not in the position the TCM expects because the pulley assembly is not working properly. This is what happens on most of these CVT's. The torque converter starts failing sending metal through the unit. The pump flow valve and the valve body valves get damaged and stick. Most people continue driving the vehicle and the pulley's and belt will end up damaged as well. The other thing that happens is there are small bearings on each pulley where the 2 halves slide up and down. They damage the shaft and cause them to stick. Either will cause the stepper motor to not be in the position it expects and therefore will throw a code. There a times where the stepper motor is bad, but it is rarer than the other situations. If there is ANY metal in the pan you more than likely DO NOT have a bad stepper motor. If the converter is going bad there will be a BUNCH of metal in the pan. If the bearing have damaged the shafts, depending how far along it is, there will be a small amount of metal.

If it was me and the transmission has no issues I would put a new valve body and torque converter in it for sure. Then if you feel you must, freshen up the transmission. The pump and pulley assembly usually fail because the valve body is worn out causing the converter to fail and putting metal throughout the system.

​@Curmudgeon Transmission I'm new to transmissions. So new valve body and torque converter. What are you meaning by freshen up the transmission? Of course new oil and filter. I'm assuming I should check the condition of the pump flow control valve? I appreciate the help it's been a nightmare trying to find solid info on this.

@@bq5432 Putting a rebuild kit in it. Yes, check the pump valve. But usually it gets scored up when the converter fails. If you plan on taking the pulleys apart you will need some special tools for that.

You will need to pull the pan to know that. If it has metal shavings in the bottom you will need to go through the whole unit. If not it may be the clutch select valve stuck or a bad solenoid. With a new valve body or transmission replacement you are supposed to program it.

Only if you installed a new ROM chip. Some had them in the wiring harness. If it has one you can put the old one in and you will be fine. You do need to clear codes, even if it says there are none, and reset the adaptives.

No, I don't have a specific list. But I will say that most will need a rebuild kit. I prefer Transtec with Raybestos clutches. Filtran filter (both filters). Most will need a pump. No matter where you get your pump, except for maybe the dealer, you need to take it apart and make sure it is put together properly. Especially if you get it from WIT. Most will need a variator assembly with the belt. Do the same as with the pump. Most will need a valve body. I would get one from Sonnax or the dealer. All will need a torque converter. I would get one from Precision of New Hampton. For used parts, good sources are Bishop's or Slauson's. Links for all are in the latest videos.

Hi, thanks for watching. I'm sorry but I think something got lost in translation. I am not understanding the question.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission sorry, why there is a spring in the primary pulley of the variator, but more often it is not?

@@user-dz8wh4wv8f Oh. Not sure. That's engineer's for you. Just depends on the model.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok. Thanks.

Which ring gear? If you are talking about the one in the forward drum, yes.

*i mean the balance shell

Yes the round holes have to line up, that is where the guide balls go. If you do not have a balance shell then you cannot put it on. Are you sure you have a JF017E? What is the year, make and model?

@@CurmudgeonTransmission the yes i’m sure it’s Jf017e, I don’t know what car it came from as i got it already disconnected in junkyard, however it is identical to 2013 3.5L altima transmission which i recently overhauled except for the balance shell, this one is without. also the one you overhauled in the video is came without one but you brought from another gear, right? Thank You very much for your response

No, it came from that unit.

No. Book lists it as an RE0F10H (JF018E).

I don't remember. They all pretty much have the same problem. Valve body wear causes the torque converter to fail which causes the pump valve to get stuck. Then if they keep driving it, which they usually do, the belt and pulleys are destroyed.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Ok, thank you for the reply. You have been very kind. Unfortunately I always struggle to rebuild this type of transmission. Do you know of a way to test the seal of the primary and secondary? Thanks colleague

Join the club on that one. I use air. Just follow the passages. Some you can use a large rubber tip on your blow gun. Others I have a piece of plexiglass with a hole drilled in it to seal the passage. You can make your own or this is the one I have. Won it at a seminar. www.sonnax.com/parts/3835-vacuum-plate-sealing-pad

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Ok, can you show me which holes to blow with compressed air? Thanks!

Go to my Instagram, will send you a picture. CurmudgeonTransmission