Here we are fixing someone else's mess again. This job was a case of not compacting proper and the sub grade settled and concrete cracked and water got in and froze.
When I had a bow in the wall, as long as it wasn’t to severe, I would take the top course off, and relay it straight, then when I stuccoed the wall, I would make up the difference at each end of the wall, it would just be an optical illusion, but it worked, and the top course would be perfect. You do very nice work, nice to see a contractor going the extra mile, if I ever need anything done, I know who I’ll be calling, to old to do anything myself now, LOL . 👌👍
I did poured walls for a couple years when I was 19 to 21. Hardest work I've ever done in my life, but I absolutely loved it. The guy I worked for had two crews. One crew had a full set of 8' forms, plus a filler panel truck, and the other crew had a set of 9' wall forms with a truck of filller panels. One of the best resources we had was having our own pump crane. It wasn't anything fancy or big. I think it was maybe 28 meters or so, but wow was it handy. He had one guy who did nothing but drive that thing around between jobs, and clean and maintain it.
@@jeffmiranda4758 ---Right. The rebar should come out of the footing when the footing is poured and the 90's are tied into the vericals. That is the BEST way to do it in my experience. It ain't never moving then especially after grouting the cells.
Nothing against what you did client went cheap to save money wall with bow is a failed wall I can't believe a permit will be pulled for the sunroom I highly doubt there is a footer under those blocks twp would never approve building on that slab
@12:59, stead of cutting off the rebar at the top of CMU, make a 90 degree hook with 12 inch extension so the vertical wall reinforcement can tie together with the horizontal slab reinforcement. This will make the slab and wall as one integrated structure, otherwise the slab will be subjected to sliding or twisting forces.
To add to your point, the sliding or twisting forces will be exacerbated when a porch is constructed adding wind loads as a factor. Replacing the top course of block with low web bond beam block and placing a bond beam would significantly strengthen the wall against bowing.
depending on where this is I'd be concerned about frost protection and having a key between slab and wall to keep water from working its way under slab.
That's what I thought too and really easy to do and only increase materials cost by hardly anything. Would help prevent any potential problem where the bow in the wall becomes bigger and one day fails, particularly important since there is no horizontal reinforcing preventing the walls bulging out and failing. There is a risk the stones under the slab settle down over time with vibrations of passing traffic and earth tremors/quakes, and temperature changes, and eventually the slab cracks and subsides at the cracks so would have been better to compact a layer of stones, then put in more and compact that etc. Also best to avoid smooth rounder rock but instead use crushed sharp edge rock that locks up better - a solid base like this is important for durability and is so good that it would mean you don't need to cut the concrete.
I've watched several of your videos and think you do great work. Skilled team, the small and big jobs alike you do well. Your attention to detail and communication w/ your customers is top notch. "Here comes the mud!" What can we all do to help the younger generations stop staring at their phones and learn a trade or a skill that's useful?
Great to see the steel reinforcement raised before pouring, not many contractors understand the importance of this, thanks for the video👍 Love to see people working hard when I'm on the sofa for a change😂
Raised on pieces of brick, not so great. I see contractors do it all the time on videos from Nth America. And I can guarantee that the steel mesh would have been pushed down to the plastic in many spots, because there wasn't enough support, whether brick or otherwise. Whatever happened to using correct steel chairs and plates or the all in one plastic support chairs/plates 600mm apart?
This is how to correctly set the steel and tie the wall starters into the footing of a retaining wall and to ensure that the steel is set at the correct height. I'd bet my left nut to a cracker that the repaired retains wall fails again. The only solution to a failed retaining wall is to completely dismantle it and begin again. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WVDI12_NyT8.html
My favorite part is the chair you put on top. Reminds me of the paparazzi that put a bag on top of Britney Spears car as she was driving down the street. "forgot your groceries".. nice dirt mound pedestal. True finished product
@@bondobuilt386 Even better would be to install HDPE dimpled foil to allow wood underneath breath. At least here we use it, it isn´t very expensive and it works quite good.
concrete & construction business owner here. i love the vids Bondo! yall do good work. i hardly ever comment on stuff but thought id share how we do it in ky when we deal with fixing faces/forms in general for instance your bow in the wall could have been fixed by doing an actual porch cap with a 1.5" reveal. or lay a 2x4 flat and form it with the face board straight on top of your flat bottom base. if that makes sense? lol also here in ky we have a 6yd minimum order so for something this small its more cost efficient to pour monolithic with #4 doweled to the house and with 90* bars connecting block wall to slab every 2' o.c everybody does it different however how i have described is what 9/10 engineers would have it drawn for us
@4:34, vertical rebar is not embedded into foundation; it’s just “floating” in the CMU cell. Some of the existing CMU has cracked or deteriorated due to lack of horizontal rebar. Installing only vertical rebar adds shear strength vertically but not horizontally. Without the horizontal rebar this wall will open up like a zipper.
The wall will not open up like a zipper because it will get no water in it anymore. They are building a building over it with a roof over it and it will be heated. It will last 100 years or more. It is solid filled with concrete
You guys do great work and I love watching you turn disasters back into dreams. That said, you should really buy gym memberships for the guys. They're going to have heart attacks pulling all that extra weight around and doing heavy construction! Getting in shape will put ten years into your career and thirty years on your life, boys. Lay off the pulled- pork a little and get some Cardio ;) We're not getting any younger, and you want to spend some quality time with your grandkids :D
pouring on plastic like that is a good way to crack the concrete there should always be 2 to 3 inches of gravel or P rock on top of it that way the water in the concrete has someplace to disperse it will have a tendency to crack it in squares.
My experience is if u give a subcontractor a way to do a shortcut they will take it. If it takes 15 seconds longer to NOT swing the boom over the pool they won’t do it.
I'd argue this was a DIY project done on the cheap. Guy got a bunch of cinderblocks at Home Depot, had a bunch of rocks to fill in, and then had a buddy deliver a ton of gravel to cover it. Then he capped it with some concrete afterwards because the wife didn't like the gravel look. The concrete slab gave up the ghost because it had no rebar support and the fill began to settle leaving a gap and gravity did the rest. Back then, he probably didn't even have $50 in the project and he did it all in one weekend. And it was cheaper than a deck. If he got 15 years out of it, he got his money's worth.
Great work, Bondo! Were we able to keep concrete OUT of this customer's swimming pool? Tee hee. Your video editing and sound quality are also excellent!
Maybe put some holes in the blocks about every 8 ft to let out any gained water out. And just put a screen over the whole to not let bugs get in and plug it up.
1:46 good for him I like when customer rolls up there sleeves. I think what I would do different is a four inch trench around the perimeter to take the side load off the top row of cinder blocks.
Man still looks like a mess before your work. Water in the block holes and even looks like a drain strip at the base of the wall!!!! amazing what people do.
Out of curiousity, why not use some 1/2" bar in the occasional cell to help keep the slab and block walls tied? I'm assuming there were no lateral bars in the blocks either?
Worst part of owning a pool is closing it Hate my backyard for 7 months a year. Just looks sad and makes me want summer. I’m in eastern iowa and prolly should have already. Planning for beginning of next week hoping we really get 3 more days in the 80s like weather is currently predicting
So you need to add perforated pipe under gravel that my suggestion when is rain that water saturated the soil and push out the concrete block. Just a exit water so that way soil and gravel not push away your existing block. So good luck with project hoping getting correctly.
Needs a sonotube to a compacted pad in the very center. The rebar looks good. With no center tube, the mud should be deeper in the center with the rebar suspended toward the bottom of the pour.
Thanks for the video! Next time you do parge coat, can you show it on video?Would like to see what’s used and how it’s done. I live about an hour and a half from you, any chance you’ll do a job that far out?
Should be block in the middle areas to support the slab aswell and the fill should be loose so it doesnt freeze again and heave patio. - just like a front porch
Bondo! My block foundation have cracks the size you just showed and water getting into my basement causing damage smh what the best way I can patch up to prevent more damage to my foundation please let me know thanks
I wonder if the rebar had went up a little in the front blocks and then the slab over them would it have stopped or helped the bow from getting worse if that might have been a possibility to happen.
you guys did a all some job with i couldhave you guys do my portch front is sinking down into ground it has roff that ties into the main roof of the front of house the gutter whount drain right it drains right into were it is sinking and if you look at it from the street and know what to look for you can see it big time it even cracked in half too this summer im gonna try too jack the roof part up and level it with 50 ton jack i went from cement work to killen turkeys at a plant for a liveing wished i would of stayed with foundation work its alot more fun job i have now suck,s
Any water that’s in there will work its way out through the stone. No further water should get in there to freeze like it did before and push wall out. Also the structure will be enclosed and heated.
Should have nailed the form board to a 2X6 flushed to the edge of the pad bottom to give you a 1.5 inch over hang...NEVER install flush to a block face...
@@bondobuilt386 It always seems that when a wrinkle comes, it's always at the last part of the job. Whether, it's the last stump to dig, the last nut to tighten, ....
