John Deere 1025R Lubrication (Greasing) ...and my new grease gun 

Excellent video for a novice like myself...Just purchased a 2014 John Deere 1023E with 435 hrs for the Cottage. Hope it will save my back in the long run since I am now 69. Knowing how to make this machine last as long as I can through lubrication is key....thanks a bunch.

I just bought a new 1025R and watching these videos and others, I see JD must be listening. Many of the older “fixes” or upgrades have been incorporated into my 2023 model. Also, my JD dealer will come out and do all of the service on my tractor at my house! I’m kinda like “Oddball” in Kelley’s Heroes…..”hey man I drivem, I don’t knowhow to fixem! Beside JD here is a mechanical genius…” …..great videos……

While I have more tools than most people I am a diesel mechanic, I have the Snap On cordless grease gun. I worked for a local landfill for 10 years and greasing a full size excavator would take 3 tubes of grease if it is greased properly, so the hand deal is somewhat cumbersome. I was really pleased to find that I could adjust the tracks on both dozers and excavators with the cordless as well, they would usually require a air powered grease gun. I also found that fittings that were stuck would open up to take grease where a hand gun would not push the grease through the fitting. When you store your grease gun pull the plunger out and lock it in the cap as if your replacing the tube, this will keep the spring pressure off the grease and the grease will stay on the right side of the plunger. They also make a needle that can get into tight places, they are a bit tricky to use however they work quite well.

I use an old gym sock over the tube of the grease gun, a lot less mess and keeps my hands from slipping on the smooth surface of the tube when I am holding it. I really enjoy your videos, please keep them coming!! big fan in West Fargo, ND

Tim, I appreciate the video tutorial on greasing the shafts and universal joints on the 1025R. However, things have changed on the newer 1025Rs. Some of the zerks you show here have been designed out of the newer tractors and there is no top access to that universal zerk at the back of the engine. It is now limited to just the small access hole under the tractor. It would be helpful, since you have a great series of videos in your collection and your knowledge of the 1025r/1023 is extensive, if you would use a newer model 1025R. Maybe get John Deere to give you a real 'good buddy' price, since you've been singing the praises of the 1 Series tractors for as long as you have.

Thanks for the videos! I just ordered my 1025R and being a novice I really appreciate all the help I can get.

hi tim, thanks for info about turning flywheel, what i did was make that hole in the cross member a bit bigger with a step drill , it is now about 1 inch , next secret was i bought a 1/8 pipe coupling and a 6 inch pipe nipple ,added that to the 4 inch on a mini grease gun and it was easy to get to zerk and pump solved that front ujoint horror show deere needs some engineers who have worked on stuff in real life , hope it helps

hi I live in Illinois enjoy your videos I'm 55 years old, a dialysis patient and am bed bound. I'm always on the lookout for you next video.Keep them comming. you must a very 3ell paying job to have very nice home and car and tractor and equipment

Tim, first of all thank you guys for doing these videos, it helped me make the decision to purchase my series 1 last summer. as for grease, everyone has a favorite, I used Castrol HD Ag grease for years working as a mechanic on industrial equipment, excellent grease however now because I no longer work in that field my grease suffered the same fate due to not being used every day, I switched over to a High temp / pressure grease "Red Line Synthetic Grease 80402" I've not had the that issue since and I use about a tube or so per year so cost isn't that much of a factor. personaly I'm not a fan of the lock n lubes because of there size, a good Lincoln gun and a properly adjusted end works just fine for one handed operation. I do suggest changing out the hose to one that's about 3-4 foot in length, makes placing your grease gun flat on the floor for easy use. Have a great day.

You keep your so clean I'm surprised you did not wash it when you had it apart. I bought half a 2013 Kenworth OTR tractor this past week; yup Dad's a sucker when the Mack had a catastrophic failure. First thing my son in law did was power wash the engine; makes it much easier to spot leaks! Whomever owned the truck took immaculate care of it and really took care of the interior since the seats were as soft as butter. Message to all that see your video: take care of your equipment as Tim does and it will last until you determine to change it out.

Tim!!! I noticed at the end the tubes you built with wheels for your pallet forks. Great idea! I am going to build some for my forks. Thanks!!!

Thanks Tim, I love your videos and appreciate the extra time you take to do them for the rest of us!

I've been learning a lot from watching your videos I just got a little John Deere tractor 1025r and I'm anxious to learn how to really use it I never having a tractor before your videos help out greatly

Tim - thanks a LOT for this video..... your suggestion to 'hand-turn' the flywheel to gain access the 'upper drive shaft' zert saved my bacon. The zert was at an odd angle that would not allow me to get the grease gun coupler onto the zert. After aligning the zert to the access hole on the frame, I had no problem getting the coupler onto the zert and lubricating that and the rear zert of that driveshaft - - didn't really see a need to disassemble the panels..... but great optional information.

FYI.... When you grease the hard to get to zerk.. I suggest to put a paint make on the flywheel.. Lining up with the zerk fitting.. It makes it easier to find it next time you grease it.. Nice clip

Good info - I had given up on front main drive Zerk fitting. Really liked all the challenges, out of grease, grease leaking to the floor, new gun leaking - I was thinking, hey, I'm not the only one.

I pulled my hair out with the same grease fitting you had problems with Tim. When I had my JD 1025R in to have power beyond hydraulics installed I had the service department increase the size of that opening - problem solved. The amount of time and frustration saved is unbelievble. Every dealer should simply increase the size of that opening as part of pre-delivery until John Deere makes a change.

I came back to this video to see if I was missing any fittings to grease. It seems that the power steering ones are gone on mine(purchased spring 2019). Also, the black panel seems *much* more attached than those 4 screws on mine.There is a pop out panel on the bottom right, but that gives no access to the shaft. Maybe I overlooked something silly simple. Fortunately, I was able to get it without too much hassle through that tiny hole in the bottom. I used an oak dowel to turn the shafts and expose the fittings, rather than by hand. My elbow doesn't like those motions since I tore some ligaments a bit. Even using the flywheel to turn was too much for it :( I've been religious about greezing my mower deck, loader, three point, and my attachments, but had completely neglected the shafts till now (147 hours), I'm a bit ashamed to say. Basically I forgot that there were U-joints under there. The fittings needed 1-1.25 squeezes to push new grease out and make that particular sound that lets you know it's good. I'm coming up on my 200 hour service this winter, so I'll be back for more of your videos to make sure I do it right, thanks!

Just a heads up, I heard from an old timer that if you mix grease types it can leak like that because of different compositions from different companies. It does this in your stuff you're greasing too. I would stick to one type and grade and that's it. Nice job with the video. Like others said clean your fitting first.

Tim the heavy equipment and ag grease has better moisture protection and better protection around rubber boots on tie rod ends and ball joints than the multi purpose grease that can degrade the rubber

Make sure you get that front driveshaft joint! Didn't get mine as often as I should have over the past 8 yrs on my 2012 1023E. U-Joint broke and began rubbing against the power steering lines. Not fun to loose your steering on a hillside with a compound angle while you're mowing. Big expensive mess. Wish I would have known about removing that lower panel. Good news I now know how to remove the dash and all the other panels to get inside and clean out all the dirt and grass. Also, my rear MFWD is very sloppy after 8 yrs.

I have been using the Lock and lube for several years and love it. I do have a few other ends for my grease gun for tight spots that sometimes the lock and lube may be to large for. Just fond your channel a few days ago really like the content and you guys seem like a great family' I have a large and small squeeze lever like your new one and like them but most of the time I use an air powered pneumatic grease gun and really like it. Its just faster.

Mixing of different grease types can cause grease breakdown. It's always good to check grease types and to not mix them.

Might be time for my 50 hour hydraulic filter change. 50.5 hrs. Think I missed some grease fittings last time around too. Thanks for the how to videos. Your a great help.

I know this is an old video but II have a recomendation: wipe off the zert fitting before attaching the lock and lube. This keeps the lock and lube from forcing dirt into the joint. In extreme cases the dirt can "freeze up" the zert and it will need to be replaced. Some people will say that this is @#. However, I learned this from a pro mechanic.

You were spot on my friend. Thank you for a wonderful video that made my greasing job super easy except for front drive shaft.

Good job! I have 2 grease guns. One with the lock-N-lube and one with a needle nose. I use the needle nose for that hard to get at fitting. Pistol grip is the way to go and even though I'd like a battery gun I can't justify the cost. My guns leak too. Have found that it's easier to pull the bottom handle back to lock it in place if you do it before unscrewing the top handle part. Doing that is when I'd like a battery grease gun. I think it would be easier. Last time I changed the grease on mine I was ready to throw it away. Hope you're not snowed in. :-)

Another great video Tim. If you know of anyone looking for a 2022 JD 1025r loaded with heated cab, loader, bucket, seat cover(never used) I-match with weight bucket for the back, around 40hrs on it, 54” drive over deck with load and go attachment to lift deck up to clean and service blades, chain hooks on bucket, mini fan for $29,500 please let me know. I’m in Michigan. Again thank you for literally step by step how to videos. It’s very very much appreciated more than you know. God Bless you and your family.

Very informative for a new tractor owner like myself. Thanks.

hey Tim I'm fairly new to the channel to but a 40yr mechanic... cleaning of zerk fitting with finger or rag is a very good idea.. also the slop you had in the driveline looked to be a yoke to pinion but loose... that can become an issue down the road... something to take another look at... once the preload on the output brg gets to much play the cost goes up... there's a toqure spec on the nut that holds the yoke...

Battery grease gun is great for us olden guys with arther-I-Tus. That new tip has just gone on to get list. Thanks

Tim, Lock N Lube makes a grease gun barrel cap to capture the leaks from the following rod on manual grade guns. Fits on all of my manual guns (Alemite, Lincoln and Lock N Lube). Works great, and doubles as a priming bulb. Comes in multiple colors if you want to coordinate with the grease that's loaded. FWIW, a good grease gun (Alemite, Lincoln or Lock N Lube) helps but they'll leak if stored long enough with a cartridge in them. I like my Lincoln and Alemite guns, but I find myself reaching for the Lock N Lube more these days if only for the convenience of the Zerk fitting on the gun that I can latch the coupler onto during storage. No idea if the Lock N Lube gun will last as long as the Alemite and Lincoln guns I have. All manual guns leak, even with the highest grade greases. It's just a matter of time. If you go through a lot of grease, you're much less likely to observe it. But for those of us that don't use more than a single 14 oz. cartridge in a year, and store our gun in an area that can get hot (or gets sunlight), the gun is going to leak. The ones I've seen leak a ton on someone's floor have been due to the user not releasing the following rod, and/or leaving a gun for a long time with #1 grease in it. My own worst case was getting out the gun for spring maintenance and having it dump all over my mowing deck belt. That's when I bought the Lock N Lube barrel caps.

Tim, I have a Lincoln grease gun with lever pump and don't remember having that much trouble like you are with that old one. Sometimes cheaper isn't better.

Nice video. I would add that the zerk fitting tip should be wiped off before adding new grease. If your pushing dirt that’s on the zerk into the joint that’s just helping to wear out the joint sooner.

Very helpful for a brand new 1025r owner. Thanks!

Thanks for another helpful video. You have taught and helped my learning process with my 1025. The backhoe attachment is getting put on this week !

Thanks Tim, you answered my question about the type of grease lubricant for tractor. Multi-purpose makes sense to me. Thanks

I found that it didn't matter what type of grease gun I had they all leaked. I also found that pulling the T-handle out before taking the oyjrt end off there is little or no grease coming out. then take the top end off. I found that releasing the T-handle and pushing it in will eject the m-ty tube then just pull the T-handle back out and load the new tube. Also the warmer the air temp is the more they will leak also. I'm always wiping my gun off because of leaking grease, It's just something you have to get used to.

I do agree any grease is better than no grease, But when it comes to bearings And mower spindles I always use A lithium base high temp grease. It not only works well for high temperatures , But it also helps shed water And corosion.

On our farm we use John Deere Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease TY6341 does not separate like other brands can over time. Also rubber seals will react too different types of grease. Seals can get soft or hard causing them to leak.

Tim, super informative. Thanks! However, call me anal retentive if you like, but I was always taught to wipe the surface of each fitting prior to the attachment of the gun and installation of grease. My grandfather was particular about our farm equipment and seldom had anything break. Great videos. When my wife questions me about our 1025r, I always find the explanation to her question in one of your videos which saves time and discussion. Great job.

Thank you for this! I used your video because I forgot where the dealer told me all the zerks were 6 months ago on my 2018 model. I know there was a few changes in the new model, such as the rubber boot has a hose clamp with a huge plastic wingnut on it, and obviously the side panels are tool-less; but the most significant I've noticed is that you can no longer remove that bottom cover on the dash to access the u-joint. It is all one complete piece now. Well, there's also all the steering components being sealed now as well. That's a huge downgrade in my eyes.

John Deere polyurea multi purpose grease. Part number TY6333. I believe it is $1.99 per tube. It doesn't drip nearly that much, but all petroleum based greases will drip. Deere's synthetic grease is very good, but is expensive. Most techs and farmers around here are using it almost exclusively. It is actually food grade, meaning you can use it on food production machines. Also may be used as a di-electric grease. It is good stuff.

Love my Lock n Lube. I too did not like the long handle and went with the pistol grip, however ai went to a Lucas Oil Pneumatic. I had the same reservations on the battery operated, main concern was a few years down the road the battery would cost $90 to replace, figure the air supply was a lot easier. I also found it has enough power in the pneumatic to blast through a rusted up fitting like on some of my used implements. Next video going to be greasing the H120? I like to grease everything at the same time, keeps me sane.

When greasing the spindles on the mower deck, how do you know when you have enough. Since spindles are basically just a hollow tube with a smaller shaft and two bearing, are you to pump grease in to fill the hollow tube? If so, how do you know when you have enough? Will it start squirting out?

Look up brapp media lubrication video really simple way to get that front fitting. Appreciate the content. 👍

Hey Tim, just wanted to say Thanks. I finally found this video again. I've been looking for that piece, the LocknLube and just ordered it. I hate greasing too. I really treated myself and got a pneumatic grease gun. It blew up the lousy connectors on the old gun. Maybe the compressor is turned up too high. I'm going to do maintenance soon. Now I've got this one saved.

Really like all your video's on your JD 1025R. One I would like you to consider is making adjustments to parking brake on 1025R.

Tim, get yourself a Lincoln 1134 pistol grip gun. About $39 on Amazon. And thanks for reminding about the LockNLube . Just added to my cart.

Always enjoy your video's, keep them coming!

I re-watched this recently to remember how you removed the cover down below the instrument panel/steering wheel. It seems that's no longer a separate piece on my 2016. I have one small access panel on the right side, but that's it.

I think the issue with dripping is the grease itself breaking down/separating while in storage. That us the primary reason I went to the one handed mini grease gun. Much smaller grease tube, that I'll use up (hopefully) before the grease begins to breakdown.

Tim, great video! I agree with the pistol grip grease gun! It makes everything a lot easier. I also have the lock and lube. Don't really care for it. It's too big to use when I'm trying to grease the front end of my 4x4 truck. Can't reach the zerts! Sometimes I think a metal tube instead of the flex hose is the better way to go. Great job!

Tim I use an old sock on my grease canister, keeps hands clean....

I liked that video, and I totally agree about drippy guns. I have one and it leaks so I tie rap a rag to the bottom. Gotta grease but I too won't buy a battery grease gun, and I don't really guess why they sell so many different grease options but I do like the red stuff.

Hello Tim. I was a little concerned that the play in that one spline connection was enough to be visible. Rotate that shaft or use your video to inspect it for cracks. The shaft and splines coming off that pump are so small that 2x the amount of play as yours demonstrates would be failure. I had to replace this shaft assembly with only 300 hours on my 2320. Mine was due to universal failure that resulted in yoke damage. The new assembly universals also refused to take grease. So I disassembled the new universals, filled the cups with grease and put it all back together. The seals or end tolerances on the new universals are so close that only 1 of the 4 cups was allowing new grease to enter. I would have shown this to John Deere but they weren't interested. A failure of a universal at 300 hours, relative to a car, 300x45mph=13,500 miles. I've heard of these failing with half the hours I had.

Hey buddy i know you were saying how what type of grease didnt matter,,and for the most part you are correct.. however to fix 90% of the issues you are having with that grease gun ,, just for the heck of it please try Lucas ,Red and Tacky.. i use it to grease my tractor and is made for industrial equipment,, and has a much higher drip point and you wont have the messy drip any longer,, i know this because i actually have the same grease gun and with the lucas red and tacky ,,no mess,, and it really stays where ya want it to inside U-joints etc... just something to try ,,, buddy

Hi Tim, I have a needle fitting for my grease gun that is about 6 inches long and connects to your lock and lube or just the end of the hose. With it you can stick the end of the needle right into the ball of the zerk and then pump grease into the fitting. I had to have it to grease all my universal joints on my 82 CJ7. Since you were under the tractor and had the zerk visible. Also if the grease separates and leeks out of the gun, it will do the same thing inside the fittings. Just a thought. I love your videos.

Thanks for the video Tim, I am having a lot of trouble greasing that main front drive shaft, have taken the fenders off and the bottom panel also the floor or mats what ever it's called. I bought a industrial battery powered grease gun when I got my john deere , but I agree with you now I did not need to do that, should have invested in a locking grease gun in.

Hi Tim, I like your videos but do have a couple of comments about this one. You should wipe off the dirt from the grease zerk prior to putting your coupling on it so you don't pump dirt into the zerk. Also, do you think if you had a better grade of grease you wouldn't have such an issue with it running out of the grease gun. Just wondering.

Thanks for the video, will save me a ton of headaches.

Have you seen the grease gun the guy on Good Tractor Works recommends? It uses grease that is in a canister, the grease is self contained. Looks like a great idea, not sure of the cost.

Great video. Got some price quotes on a1025r today. Going tomorrow to another dealership to look at 1025r. I'm about ready to take the plunge.

Thanks Tim! Love this video. I just found your channel here and have been watching your videos. I have this 1025 and have for a couple years few years now. Love it. Was always wondering if I greased correctly and this video showed I missed a few areas. I don't have any pto attachments yet. I have a front end loader and backhoe. I grease those regularly. Questions: should I grease the pto points even though I don't use that yet? Should I remove squirted out grease when it builds up? Particularly on my front loader and backhoe?

Cheap stuff ain't good, and Good stuff ain't cheap.

Thanks Tim!!

Great job with video and appreciate all additional feedback. W

Not sure what year your 1025R is, Mine is a 2016 and I can't remove the interior cover to get at that grease joint as you show. My boot has the 4 bolts you show as well as 4 bolt that secure the boot to the floor. It actually looks like this is a one piece console, which I didn't care to try to remove.

Hi Tim, unrelated question. I found my AWD boot (p/n LVU. 20304) was almost torn off. Is this replaceable by the average Joe? The boot only cost about $30.

The easiest way by far to get to that front driveshaft zerk is to simply line it up with the hole in the skid plate and use a needle adapter. It literally takes 10% of the time and effort of any other method.

Don't have access to the tractor now. Will post a picture when I get back to my other home on this cover.

How often are you greasing yours? If I remember correctly it's every 200 hrs or annually.

TIM... Do you have any tips on how to tighten the lock nut on the loader joystick. Mine came loose and the stick is no longer tight and staying in it's original position. Loader works fine but the stick is loose. Do you have to disassemble the whole fender. Not sure if you have run into this problem with 1025r....... mine is new...... 2020. Will be calling the dealer, but would like to know if it is an easy fix for the future?

Tim I don’t know how you you got that lock and lube on the hidden fitting. I have small hands and still really couldn’t get in there. I am glad I ran into this. I totally forgot about this one and haven’t greased it in probably 400 hours. I grease all the time. Too much if anything as I just forgot about this one dor some reason. Lock and lube works great everywhere else but not here at all from the bottom. Have to start over tomorrow and may go get a needle fitting. This is just Asinine by JD!!!! Mines a 2013 btw

Thanks, I need to review it once a year before doing the work.

you can get a self content air grease gun hook air to it and a way you go look for them at your auto supply dealer.

My brand new 2021 JD 1025R TLB manual does not show where to lube and maintain the JD. What is up with that? That being said thanks for the video. I guess JD wants your stuff to quit working so they can replace it? Any options on a chart to show all the lube points?

Nice job Tim . . . I'm headed out to the shop soon to grease the U-joints and this was a great refresher.

Good video. I want to buy a 1025r next year. Can you please tell what the height of the tractor is with the Rops folded down? I can't find it in the specs on the JD website. Thanks for any help.

Great video. I enjoyed it. It is important to grease things for sure. Do you think you're going to do a greasing video on the loader and the mower deck? I could have missed it if you've already made one.

Our Deere dealer said for our loader to grease it every 8 hours of use. The tractor itself I think he said every 24 hours of use but I could be wrong. The mower I can't remember exactly what he said either.

Great video Tim

Did miss your lubrication of the control valve? It is specified every 50 hours.

Tim, hard to tell from video but how hard would it be to replace angle zert fitting with a straight one?

Thank you for this!

Video was helpful Tim, thanks. Just bought a 1023e used and greased/greazed everything. Fitting pulled out on power steering, ever had that happen? It goes back in but can wriggle it out pretty easily

I'm not sure what the temperature was when you shot this video but something does not seem right with that grease. I store my tractor and grease in an unheated/uncooled shed which can get 100+ degrees in the summer and I've never had any of my grease guns squirt out juice like that. I use JD SD Polyurea in both gun (pistol grip and lever type). Perhaps other can comment if it is a characteristic of certain types of grease.

Well know I know the maintenance to look forward to on my new tractor!

Great Video . But one question . Why is your suicide knob tilted to the inside of the steering wheel ?

Does Lucas red and tacky grease work for tractors like this?

your best best is to get a Lincoln grease gun and a better quality grease to solve that dripping problem but it won't solve it completely because the longer the tube sits In the gun it seeps past that plunger inside and just makes a mess

I have a question. When you turned the drive shaft to reposition the fitting, is it ok to turn the shaft in any direction. I know with some engines you are supposed to turn in one direction?

Great Info again Tim Thank you

What do you use in the gear box on the deck

Does your tractor have a front axle pivot bushing that needs grease, my old Ferguson does not, never understood why Harry Ferguson let his engineers get away with no grease zerk on that front axle pivot bearing,

I can't find all of the Zerks on my 2017 1025 R. Doesn't seem to match any videos I can find. I can't find a diagram online either. Ps. You need an Iowa sticker to go over that Illini one ;)

Job done - Thanks

Thanks again... I've enjoyed another video

Tractor bootcamp here, just wondering if there is an easier way to line up the zerks facing down on the u-joints without moving the tractor? Thanks Great vids by the way!

Great this helps me immensely in the future for my 1025R.