I watched your video to help me mount my snowblower on my new 2025R. Your video was well done and it helped me get mine mounted rather easily. Thanks!!!!
I rarely if ever have added a comment but this tutorial on that jd process was the ABSOLUTE bet I’ve seen! Also, you are my man cave hero! A new goal in my life ❄️Tnx
Thank you for the time you spent on this video. My Deere 47" Snow Blower came yesterday all set up. I need to use the loader on a few things before the snow flies. Your effort and time spent helped me a lot to understand how to disassemble the blower to the point where I can use my loader for a few weeks. I think your garage is really top notch. I am working on my large man-cave so that it will also look as good as it now functions. Again, your video is excellent! Thank you for helping us all!
Thank you Mark, I'm glad I was able to show you somethings that help you setting up your machine. The JD manual(s) for the Snow Thrower installation/removal are not as detailed, especially with pictures/illustrations as it should be and you just have to figure it out. I go though this every year around Thanksgiving and early December - put the Snow Thrower on now, or can I wait a little while longer?? Once the Snow Thrower is on, it really does "paralyze" the machine from being used for anything else. Even just removing the Snow Thrower chute, the drive shaft for the unit, including the drive shaft forward support bracket lowers the ground clearance to maybe 6". Additionally there is not enough clearance between the forward support bracket to mount the Loader - it just doesn't fit. So if you want to use the Front Loader again - the entire Snow Thrower, drive shaft, forward support mounts, hydraulic lines, etc., would have to be removed. Lastly, removing the entire Snow Thrower, attaching the Front Loader, then reversing the process to get the Snow Thrower back on - doing it in sub-freezing temperatures even in the Garage is not fun. I just concede to keep the machine ready for the next storm, counting the days when I can remove the Snow Thrower, get the Loader back on to get into other work with it around the property. Again, thank you for watching . . !
I modified the bucket stand to be able to miss the Snow Blower bracket. So now I can use both as quick connect and disconnect. Nice garage, very clean as I like mine to be the same.
Thanks for watching! Was the modification to leave the lower, PTO bearing bracket mounted? The Blower mounting brackets installed lower the ground clearance to maybe 4" from 18" - yes? That was the primary reason I did not consider any modification to the Loader Stand. That 4" ground clearance, for me, made the tractor pretty much useless, so it just made sense to remove the bracket(s) vs modifying the Loader Stand. As I call it with the Snow Thrower mounted, paralyzes the Tractor to only be used to clear snow. I eagerly look forward to Spring when I could take every thing off! If it works for you great . . . thanks for letting me know it can be done.
Thank You! Mine had the snowblower on it when I bought it and wanted to put the loader on to move some piles of snow. I wasn't sure how hard it would be to take it off or even how to. So now I know and the blower stays on till spring!
Not so much that it is hard to swap the Snow Thrower and Loader - for me it's a combination of the time is takes for maybe a job that needs just 20-30 minutes with the Loader, then swapping things back again, along with doing it in the cold. You can't always be wearing gloves when swapping stuff back and forth, as well as all the metal stuff you have to touch, hold, move, unbolt/both back up is COLD - actually freezing! So I perhaps take the lazy approach and just say the Blower stays on until shortly after Easter when the days are getting longer again, and we're more consistently in the 50's and of course no snow what so ever is in any forecast. Thanks for watching!
Great job explaining the installation process! You keep your machine as clean as I try to! I have a X758 with the 54" blower and I also have a 60" plow blade. Thanks for taking the time to make the video!
Thank you. It was a bit longer than I wanted to make it that was the result of a lot of questions from a video I did last Spring when I removed it that I tried to cover. Editing another video right now putting the machine to work in the foot of snow we got here in Northern New Jersey in the later part of the week of December 14th.
Good video. Just in case you weren't aware, you can pull the dust plugs off of your hydraulic hoses pretty easily and swap which hose they are on to correct the mismatch of colors.
Yes I have been aware you can get these dust plugs in the correct colors . . . . Unfortunately it's been a "B" priority on my to-do list, mixed is with some procrastination to remember when I have been at my John Deere dealer to ask for them! Very much appreciate your comments and suggestions, and thank you for watching.
The reason for that sensor is this. The mid PTO is typically used to run a mid mount mower. John Deere was forced with much help from our Government to design a system that would shut the tractor off if you tried to back up with the mid-PTO engaged. However they will allow you to back up (without looking) by pulling up on the knob, pushing forward on the switch or pushing a separate RIO button. Well, someone finally had some common sense when it came to the mid-PTO when using the front mount blower. As long as that sensor sees that forward shaft spinning it will not shut the tractor down in reverse. They realized that with the blower installed you would be backing up a lot and didn’t want you to have to hit that RIO switch or button every time.
Of course ! - thanks for the explanation. I don't use mine for mowing and only use the mid-mount PTO for the Snow Thrower. Now I recall my cousin who has a 2016 1026R expressing frustration every time he backed-up when mowing the PTO automatically disengaging, and then when going forward again the PTO slamming back into engagement with the engine at 2500-3000 RPM. He as had three failures (once each summer) of the PTO as a result. Failures meaning from the numerous dis-engagements/engagements at high RPMS, trashing the PTO drive bearing, and the last time it not only trashed the bearing, but also fractured/cracked the transmission case around the bearing housing. Average repair costs were between $1,800 - $2,000! Not just the repair costs where aggravating it took up to ten days the tractor was in the shop. Largely as the result the dealer having to order the bearing each time, and it took over 2 weeks to get the replacement transmission case. The hydraulic pump/transmission case fortunately separated into three sections, so it was just the forward section that housed the PTO bearing being replaced. The last time it happened (this past summer) he unloaded on the Dealer asking what the hell is wrong with this design and why this keeps happening. Believe it or not the dealer's response was the Transmission Case, PTO and drive train of the mower deck are designed for this use/operation - its a result of improper use of the tractor when mowing!! WHAT!!! Thanks again for explaining why that speed sensor is needed, and the wonderful job our Government does with these (moronic) safety regulations.
You mentioned the John Deere dealer didn't put the correct coloured caps on the hydraulic hoses from the blower. The right ones can be bought from your dealer. Easy to install. Good video on the blower install. My second year putting mine on and I learned something from your video. I leave mine on longer though ; about 6 months here in Canada. Cheers
Thank you for watching and that you were able to get something out of it. Like you I watch other folks 2025R video's and there is always something new I find, or answers a question I have had for a while. You're right the colored dust caps are no big deal to change out - call it an open maintenance / to-do item I have had for the past 18 months. I have to get over to my JD dealer this week with getting a Black Dust Cap on the list of things to pick-up/order. Am curious - do you use your 2025R for any projects/jobs around your place with the Snow Thrower, PTO, and mounting brackets attached. Or are you like me and it just sits in the garage until the next snow storm comes through before it's used again? With the weather we have here I can typically remove my Blower by mid-March. Although I am very leery of that last major punch-in-the-mouth snow storm Mother Nature seems to like to do around Easter every year - just when you think is safe to take it off!
Glad you liked it. My real purpose for doing this video is I have found the JD Manuals lacking sometimes in how they describe things to be done - our totally omitting something you need to do, like connect the PTO shaft speed sensor! Thanks for watching -
nice job.... thanks for the great videos...lots of fun toys.... i need one of those... next thing you need is a lift to make it easier to get that shaft on.... looks like a lot of work... good thing you have a nice garage....
Thank you for watching and I am glad you enjoy them. I may have over stated the challenge to get the PTO Spline Shaft aligned with the Transmission PTO Splined Output Shaft - BUT - you have to have them aligned for the PTO Shaft to seat & lock properly on the Transmission PTO Spline Output Shaft. It does take a little juggling, shaking, twisting of the PTO shaft to make that happen. Once it's aligned it slips on and locks real easy! A lift would be nice, no doubt, There is a lot of ground clearance under the tractor that makes it workable and not like you have no room to move around, or not see clearly what you are doing.
Thanks for watching! You're going to love your new machine. This new/updated 2-Series Tractors by JD has me curious to check them out 1st hand. In addition to the styling cue changes, are improved lifting capacities, ground clearance, and over all total weight increase. What is the price point of your 2520 from your dealer?
Thanks for watching, and very much appreciate your comment. As maybe you have experienced, I have found the JD manuals lacking detail, both in the descriptions, as well as the lack of illustrations. I am glad this helped as it was a result of a trial-and-error process to do the installation correctly, and most importantly the easiest. Enjoy your machine !
I made a metal dolly to put my 47" snowblower on. I leave it in the garage. Put the quick hitch on and pick the snowblower up while on the dolly. Easier than messing around with a pallet.
I like your set up. There are some RU-vid video's of other guys with the same general set up you have for storing it and moving it around their garage/shed/barn to keep out to of the way. Makes it real easy. I'd love to have the space in my Garage to store it. For me I store the Snow Thrower and the mounting brackets in my barn that is in the back corner of my property. I have to get it there over parts of my lawn and a stone driveway I made to the barn. It needs to be picked up to to be moved as it can not be wheeled - so I have to palletize it. Enjoy your machine - thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video. Here is a true story, I have been completely baffled that John Deere distributors that have no clue how to attach my 54" Snow blower to my 2025r. I upgraded from a 1025R to the 2025R , i was told that all i needed to use my 54" Snowblower was a longer pto drive shaft to accommodate the longer wheelbase. Unfortunately that did not do it. On the Blower mount , the spring loaded pins that hold the mount to the Hitch kit / load bracket did not line up. The pin wholes were about 2 1/2" lower the the pins. The JDeere distributor that i purchased the 2025r closed, I went to a Ag Turf in Windsor Locks CT, They sold me some shorter plates that mount on the sides of the tool box in the front of the tractor frame. A cost of more or less $175.00 , it solved the line up problem the blower mount could attach to the load bracket. I was able to use the snowblower, yet i thought something was wrong. The PTO drive shaft was very close, under to the steering hydraulic piston. But in God we trust! J Deer dealers should know there stuff! After using the snow blower 3 times i had a leak in the bottom of the piston, the shaft whor a small whole in it. I decided to go to a diffrent JD dealer United Ag in Greenfield MA. The sold me a new steering piston, at a cost of approx $750.00 I explained the problem and they had no solution, did not know what parts "I owned" , Load bracket/ Hitch kit , plates, or Mounting bracket, and the PTO Shaft were compatible between the 2014 1025R and the new 2019 2025R Summer came about and i made an appointment with United Ag in Greenfield MA. I loaded the 2025r on the trailer and drove the 1HR to drop it off with all the parts, so they could figure out what i needed to hook up the snow blower. The tractor with all the parts were there for 3 weeks. I picked up the tractor from United Ag in Greenfield MA., they told me they ordered a different hitch kit / load bracket. When it arrived they sent a road Service Tec. to my farm to put the parts together. The load bracket was nearly identical to the one i had, and it did nothing to solve the problem. Then i received my bill from United Ag in Greenfield MA. for $1,300 for labor , which included adjusting my parking brake. I drove back to the dealer, completely baffled and the parts dept thought i needed a diffrent load bracket / mounting kit, I picked it up, again it looked similar, with a slightly diffrent pitch on the plate that holds the bearings for the PTO shaft. With due diligence, I made the effort and swapped out plates, bearings and tried to attach the PTO Shaft , this setup was even worse, the PTO Shaft could not attach to the mid PTO it was obstructed be the steering piston. I phoned United Ag in Greenfield MA. told them the new part did not fix the problem. The Parts manager told me to bring the Tractor and all its parts to there facility. Frustration is a kind word for how i felt! They had the Tractor , and parts for 3 weeks in the summer with $1,300 in labor to fugue out nothing fits. So i loaded it all up and drove it back to the JD Dealer . Guess what they just orders ? Another Hitch Kit ! at a cost of $375.00 I have physically went to the Dealer 5 times, the Tractor loaded and brought there 2 times and a Service Tec. to my farm / home 1 time. I has spent on parts and labor $2,300.00 and my 54"snow blower cannot attach to the 2025r Waiting now , yet to arrive for another $375.00 hitch kit. I see now in your video, the Blower mount has plates on the side , that mine doesn't, potentially that coulds solve my problem. I just forward photos to United Ag in Greenfield MA., if you have any suggestions i am all ears! A True story had to believe,
WOW - an incredible and unfortunate story! When I was looking at the 2025R, having purchased a 1025R from the same dealer 2 years earlier, I was originally told the Snow Blower and Back Hoe attachments I had for the 1025R could mount to the 2025R with no problem. The only expectations was as you indicated, with a longer wheel base on the 2025R I would need a longer PTO shaft, as well as would need extensions to the hydraulic lines to the Snow Thrower. What maybe saved me from under going your experience with the Snow Thrower was I had sold my 1025R with the 46" model, Front Loader and the Back Hoe to a Landscaper who was a friend of mine. Initially I was not going to include the Back Hoe because I was told it would back-fit on to the 2025R with "no-problem". In the back of my mind this sounded to good, as I know John Deere like a lot of machinery companies are always constantly improving their design(s) for added reliability, and easy/simplicity of installation/removal. What I did was I took pictures of the Back Hoe mounted on a 2025R they had in inventory. When I compared the pictures I had taken to my 1025R - the mounting system was very different. I went back to my dealer with this information and began to ask much more detailed questions. It so happened when I went back I was talking to the Dealer Owner's son who was VERY knowledgeable, and profusely apologized for the miss information I had gotten from one of his sales guys. Don't get me wrong, they are all great people, very polite, attentive, and want to help you in anyway they can. The issue is clearly training they had not received that these machines, even though my 1025R was just 2 years older than the 2025R I was looking at. It had a number of design changes on how ALL the attachments mounted to the tractor. So I wound up almost giving away the Back Hoe with the 1025R when I sold it because it was useless - BUT - the dealer, when all was done, my 2025R configured with the 54" Snow Thrower, Front Loader and the 120B Back Hoe discounted the final sale price by just of over $6,000 - in essence gave me the Snow Thrower, and also included delivery to my house that was an hour away from the dealership. That's the good story - now the other story - I have repeatedly run into a LACK of technical knowledge by their Parts & Service Counter people, many times knowing more then they did that is incredibly frustrating. I have indicated this frustration in the Survey's my dealer emails to me asking "How did we do" - I don't hold anything back. Not only do I have the 2025R but I also have an HPX 4WD Gator - I just have accepted the fact if I want to get things done right, and with confidence it's fixed correctly, I do the work myself. Unfortunately the poor performance of their Dealers cast a less then favorable opinion on John Deere over-all, yet I still believe they design, engineer and build the best equipment over any of the competition. I hope you are enjoying your 2025R as much as I am mine - can't seem to keep a grin off my face when using it!
Great video. I will be using it this winter to hook up my blower. I have a new 2025R but with a cab which is one of the main reasons I sold my New Holland Boomer 25 which is very comparable. Surprised you don't have the cab as I believe it will be much more pleasurable to blow snow here in WI.
I did debate getting a cab - ALOT! My decision not to go with one was primarily driven by I use the tractor 95% of the time in mild to warmer weather. The Cab, even with the windows/vents open can get very warm inside and can feel like a sauna. You're never are really going fast enough to get a good breeze into the Cab to keep/stay cool as well. So for the 2-3 times in the winter that I use it to clear my driveway, I am okay to just bundle up and get the job done. Thanks for watching!
If you loosen the 3 bolts of the bearing flanges the shaft will slide through way easier and make your life better. That's how we install them at the dealership
M3 Entertainment just by feel, probably around 25-30ftlbs.... and the bearings I am talking about are the two on the very front where the hex part of the shaft slides through. With them loose and the bearings can spin/pivot, and it will slide in super easy, then the shaft will pull back easier
Good Job, appreciate your video. I just traded my 2003 2210 tractor for a 2007 1025R, which has the 54" blower replacing the 47" Blower. Similar blower, just larger, and has a cable for the chute's deflector. So, not a great difference in the set up. However, the old tractor did not require the removal of the belly linkage hardware associated with the drive over mower. Perhaps you could do a 2021-22 video and include that material.
One thing I noticed while watching another video that you don't show is if you have the autoconnect mower deck there is a bracket that connects with the autodeck assembly that must be removed before you can install the front bracket that holds the snowblower drive shaft. You don't show it because you don't have the autodeck assembly so there is nothing to remove in your case. Just thought I would point it out for people that have the autoconnect mower deck assembly.
You are correct - if you use a mower deck there is a bracket you must remove, that is part of the mower's autoconnect feature. I do not use my tractor for lawn mowing, and do not have a mower deck. In my particular case to mow my lawn requires a lot of turning around trees and plant/flower beds. This tractor is heavy, after a rain and the ground is wet/soft it tears up things up pretty good with all the maneuvering. You also sit up high - I have a number of trees with their lower branches I just could not get underneath them even if I lay flat over the steering wheel. I use a zero-turn mower for mowing. In addition to sitting much lower, the machine weighs half as much as the 2025R, and has almost twice the tire contact area on the ground that distributes the machine's weight over a boarder area & prevents to the greatest extent possible tearing the lawn up when maneuvering. Thanks for watching !
Very helpful. As someone who struggles putting on the 47” year after year this video was very helpful. Help to see your good use of the forklift. I normally just lift and grunt everything into place. I’ll use the forklift next year. By far my biggest issue is disconnecting the snowblowers driveshaft from the 2305 tractor’s PTO shaft. It is as hard as _ _ _ _ to remove. Any suggestions? Obviously after a hard winter’s use, thawing and freezing cycles, stress on bearings, etc. that partially explains why it’s difficult. But perhaps there’s something I could/should be doing that I’m not.
The BEST feature/function of my 2025R is the Pallet Forks! Like you I was humping, lifting, & grunting things I had to move around, and or pick-up. A good 75% of the time I have the Pallet Forks attached - using them from everything that includes lifting & loading tools/equipment on to pallets, as well as up and into the bed of my truck, then moving the palletized items to store my shed/barn. As you see me using the pallet forks to lift and move the Snow Thrower simplifies the job, not to mention gives my back a break as well! In regards to the struggle you have removing the drive shaft from the PTO output from the tractor - the 2025R Snow Thrower uses a slip coupling that is on the drive shaft that you pull back then align to the PTO spline shaft (which is not always easy), then release when the drive shaft is fully engaged to the PTO output, locking it in place. I thoroughly grease both the drive shaft coupling and the PTO output shaft. Additional I grease the forward support bracket bearings that the drive shaft slips thorough. Forward and Backward motion of the Drive Shaft is needed to get it attached/engaged fully onto the tractor's PTO output shaft. The key is thoroughly greasing the PTO output shaft, the drive shaft spline coupling, as well as the forward mounting bracket for the drive shaft. I got a tip from a John Deere Tech that watched this video and made the suggestion to loosing slightly the nuts/bolts that hold the bearings in the forward mounting bracket to help with easing forward/backward movement needed of the drive shaft when connecting/removing it from the PTO output shaft. I hope that helps - enjoy your machine!
I have the same blower on my 2009 2025. Not much has changed! I had to replace those 2 bearings in the shaft support mount when I installed it this past fall.
I agree - not much has changed with Snow Thrower designs in a long time - pretty proven as it is. What were your hearing and/or seeing in the bearings in the Forward PTO Drive Shaft Bracket/Support that made replacing them necessary? Enjoy your machine - thanks for watching!
Good video didn't know about the connector guess I would have seen it. I will not be disconnecting the PTO shaft from the first bracket. no need. Yeah it definitely renders the tractor as single use but it comes off easy enough. I bought a rear drag mower so the mid will sit now but really it's all good and pretty easy to get things on and off.
Thank you for the feed back - glad you enjoyed it. Sounds like you have a great solution using a rear mower that eliminates having to remove the PTO Drive Shaft & Bracket. Just one thought is the PTO Drive Shaft Forward Bracket does reduce the over-all ground clearance significantly, like less than 6 inches. When working your lawn/field with the rear deck mower the potential to impact that bracket with something you may drive over could have a bad result for that bracket/mount. Just a thought - enjoy your machine!
It would be nice to be able to install the speed pickup sensor by itself. I have a 2019 2025r that I brush hog with. Any errant change in direction will kill the pto. I do not like the RIO function . It's supposed to be for safety but I find it a huge pain in the......
I was slow in finding out what the speed sensor pick-up used for the Snow Thrower was for (keeps the PTO engaged when reversing). All I did know was when I did not connect it, the PTO disengaged. I do not use my 2025R for mowing, or use any other attachment, other than the Snow Thrower. I had made several comments during the installation of the Snow Thrower DON'T FORGET to connect the speed sensor pick-up, or else. Finally got a comment back from someone who uses his for mowing, saying it is a JD SAFTY feature that disengages the PTO/stops the mower. Why - because JD, or by some other Gov't Safety Agency to JD said people are to stupid to look backwards, if, when backing up when mowing and "risk" run over somebody. I was floored. Backing an filling as you mow around obstacles, trees, flower beds, side walks, etc., etc. is how you get it done, and I am sure it is the same way using your Bush Hog. Somehow, someway an "exemption" was made to remove this "safety" feature when using the Snow Thrower because you are moving forward and backing constantly as you remove snow, much more than when mowing - ????? I agree with you - this is more than a pain in the a__s, and even more frustrating that "someone" thinks you are a complete idiot when using the machine. There is a work around for this . . . just ask your JD dealer, or a non-OEM service shop to defeat this frustration. Thanks for watching . . . .
Be nice if they added some brackets on top of the snow blower "lifting lugs" so you could just slide the forks in w/o the straps. You could have some made up...just a thought.
Great idea. John Deere does have that feature of brackets attached to their mower decks to make moving them around with forks real easy as well as to lift & tip back for cleaning and maintenance. Easy enough to get and attach. I have attached lift lugs to my loader bucket. They have a dual purpose, can lift things with chains, as well as after I remove it, to attach the Pallet Forks I can then move it to store. I'll give this some serious consideration - Thanks for watching - !
I put my blower on a pallet like you as well. I don’t lift it on/off like that. I use 2 - 2x6’s 5’ long, lay them flat lengthwise in front of the pallet as a ramp to be able to just pick it on/off with front mounting bracket. So you have a 5’ approach to the pallet. If you stack another 2x6 3’ long it’s a little better. Saves on your back lifting to get the straps under. Really like the video.
Simple just swing by the Toro dealer with your trailer one day and pick up a Toro groundsmaster with the cab feature and the snowblower option. And bobs yer uncle life is good 😊
Are you referring to the wood pallet that I carry/store the Snow Thrower on? It's just a regular/typical wood pallet that I added blocking too that holds and keeps in place the Snow Thrower, as well as the front PTO Shaft Bearing Housing, and the Front Mounting Bracket. I hope that answered your question, if not please get back to me. Thanks for watching !
Thank you. I agree, additional, brighter lighting is always a good thing. The video unfortunately does show things to be a little dimmer then they actually are. The snow thrower I have is the John Deere 54" model. JD makes only two Snow Throwers for the 2025R a 47" & the 54". I hope that helps - thanks for watching !
Thank you for watching! The number 54 you see is the width of the Snow Thrower in Inches. 54 inches = 1.34M. John Deere offers two (2) Snow Throwers for this tractor the 54 inch/1.34M and a 46 inch/1.17M wide. I hope that helps. If you have any other questions please do not hesitate to ask.
I see you only have so much room to work with in your garage but if you had room would you rather have had the 3025? For the mass and stability? That is my current state of mind and what I am stuck on. Open to opinions.
As you may know, nobody will ever tell you your tractor is to big! For me when I pushed away the emotion to get a bigger tractor, even if I did have room for it was the practical application(s) I use my 2025R for. I believe the 3025e was developed by John Deere to compete at a price point, and not really separate itself with features and capabilities that John Deere uses in thier 3032 & 3038 series tractors. Starting with using the same engine that is in the 1025R & 2025R, the 25HP Yanmar Diesel rated at approx 25HP. It also uses a 2 speed transmission vs the 3 speed heavier duty transmission the R series has, as well as single brakes, vs a spilt pedal the R series uses. As John Deere calls the 3025e "economical" 4WD tractor that competes head-on with the Kubota L2501. I get what John Deere is doing in keeping and growing market share in this physical size tractor - and do a great job at it. In my opinion the 3025e is the 1025R/2025R in power & capabilities in simply a physically bigger tractor, and a little heavier. The JD 2032 & 2038R have more power, features & capabilities over the 3025e jumping to 32 to 38HP. For me if I were to step up to a 3 Series tractor, you step up to it and not compromise - understanding your check book is going to take harder hit. It does a great job kicking Kubota in the you-know-where if that is the comparison you are making based on price. On stability that is tough to comment on. All JD tractors meet the 20Deg tilt before roll over becomes a real danger. However the real limit is how your butt feels when on uneven, hilly surfaces, and the common sense that needs to be used. I am not sure if that helps - I know this is not an easy decision process. Thanks for watching !
The brackets you are referring to are the forward drive shaft bracket & the mounting bracket? No, the loader will not fit on the machine with these brackets left on. The Loaders Storage Stand Leg does not clear these brackets that prevents it from being mounted, Believe me I have tried several times !! The other reason you would want to remove those brackets is the significantly reduced ground clearance. You maybe have 6" of ground clearance with those brackets on, as compared to the normal 18-20" clearance. One of my key buying decisions for the 2025R over the 1025R was the added ground clearance the 2025R has. I do a lot of firewood cutting/gathering in the woods - I need all the ground clearance I can get to not get stuck. Thanks for watching !
I was asking about the 2 small brackets that bolt directly to the frame rails not the weldment that contains the bearings for the drive shaft..@@m3entertainment228
Agree on the idea that once the snow blower is on, it’s there for the winter. Also second the notion that JD’s manuals are vague and lacking as well as their illustrations are poor quality. Lots of “dead air” in your video. I’m procrastinating going out and putting mine on so I’ll stay on here for now…
Thank you for watching and sharing the same experiences I have had/having with JD manuals. I appreciate the feed back very much. I need some clarification on your comment of "dead air" - ?? Not sure what you mean, or what it pertains too, thanks.
I am using the R3 Radial Tires - They are a cross between the Industrial Tire and the Lawn/Garden Tires. The benefit for me was these R3 tires have the same load rating as the Industrial Tire, with a less aggressive tread - they don't tear your lawn up (as much), provide greater contact area to surfaces, have excellent traction in/on pretty much all surfaces I use the machine on, and maintain the same ground clearance of the machine as the Industrial Tires. I do not need to use chains - if I had situations that I thought I would need them with the R3 Radials, I would have optioned for the more aggressive tread of the Industrial Tires. The softer, lighter Turf Tire has a significantly lower load rating, and due their smaller diameter lower the machines ground clearance. The lower load rating of the Turf Tire becomes a limiting factor when using the Front Loader - the lift capacity of the Front Loader can not be fully utilized because of it. I hope that helps - thanks for watching!
does anyone else have any issues mounting the PTO shaft braket to the front of the tractor? @13:44 it looks so easy here to put on but mine get jammed and does not budge. I tried hitting it with a rubber mallet to get it to go but still no go. is it possible i need to grind down the slots to widen them so it can slide on easier? This should not be this difficult.
This is not always easy for me. On occasion I have had to convince it to slide through the bearing mount with a rubber mallet. Two things that may help you - are you applying a lite layer of grease both in the bearing and all over the spline shaft? If you apply to much grease it can make it tough to slip it in and through. Second, slightly loosing the bearing retaining bolts holding the bearing into/on the bracket. They may be a slight deflection being caused by the surface not be absolutely flat that can jam the spline portion of the PTO shaft to pass smoothly through it, I actually got this tip from a John Deere tech. I would NOT recommend any grinding of the spline teeth or slots in the bracket bearing. The clearance needs to be tight, just as it is for the end that connects to the PTO power output from the transmission. These connections see a lot of loading and unloading as you use the machine. Excessive clearance (slop) will pound the surfaces that are in contact with each other that will accelerate wear (pitting), and can potentially cause cracking and even breakage of the teeth. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching !
@@m3entertainment228 thanks for the reply but my issue is not with the shaft and bearing but with the mounting bracket itself. I can't get the mounting bracket attached to the tractor as you show so effortlessly in your video. Mine is so tight i can only get the bracket in half way before it completely jams. Even hitting with a mallet does not budge it.
That is a beautiful machine and a wonderfully useful setup you have there. I have a question if you would not mind answering it? I have an older John Deere X485 it is the first version of the X700 series of tractors, I have the old 47" snowblower for it and it is pretty heavy with the all metal auger and impeller. Is it true the newer John Deere snowblowers 47" and 54" are lighter with a plastic impeller, and if so do you see any longevity/reliability issues? I have seen all your videos as well as others with 2025R-1025R snowblower setups and from what I can see it seems to throw pretty good. I am asking because my setup is getting a bit tired and within the next year I will be getting a 2025R. It is the perfect size for my needs just a little concerned about the blower. Sorry a bit long winded, Thank You.
I'm interested in Rick's experience with this too. I have a 2016 1025R with the 54" blower. The impeller is hard plastic/composite. I have not had any issues with the blower, and have not noticed a decline in performance over the past 4yrs. Granted, I am located in South Eastern PA so I am not putting serious hours on the unit. I do inspect and lubricate the chain and regularly grease the auger etc. I also spray Fluid Film on the auger, box, and chute to limit snow/ice build up. I clear a 1/4 mile driveway, it still sends the snow flying.
Thank you. One can never be long winded when talking about these machines we so enjoy! I had a 2017 1025R with the 47" Snow Thrower, then upgraded to a 2019 2025R and a 54" Snow Thrower. By the sound when you tap them and the feel, both were/are all metal, Auger, Impellor, etc. I have never come across any John Deere attachment, at least in this series of tractors, with anything plastics on them, or in them. I am impressed with how this Snow Thrower can throw snow. When I first used it clearing the driveway, my neighbor came over after watching me for a while asking me jokingly, is that snow thrower like what you see used on airport runways that throw huge amounts of snow considerable distances! It was putting out a big white wall of snow. The only down side to that is if you get a wind shift, you get a lot of flying snow back on you - giving you a really frosty face! I went from spending 3+ hours clearing the driveway with a 9HP walk-behind snow thrower, to an hour with the 2025R and 54" blower. Not to mention you're also sitting down the whole time and enjoying the drive!
I want to correct myself in what the material is John Deere uses in the Impellor for this 54" Snow Thrower - it is a plastic/polymer material! You got me thinking about it so I looked more closely and scratched the surface of it a little bit leaving no doubt its a polymer material. All else is metal. I regret the error having thought is was a metal Impellor.
For the added performance & operation I was looking for/needed there is a very nice difference. The 2025R, although having the same 25HP Yanmar Diesel Engine as the 1025R, it has a higher pressure, larger volume hydraulic pump it is driving. The result is 300-400lbs added lift capacity with the Front Loader, and up to 500-600lbs more working capacity for the Back Hoe, and about the same increase in lift capacity in the 3-Point Hitch. With the logging/fire wood gathering I do I was finding the 1025R short, many times in lifting, moving the trees/logs I was cutting that was getting annoying. I also was having ground clearance issues at times with the 1025R that was making some areas I wanted to go to pull some fallen limbs/trees out, not being easily accessible. Not really huge issues, just required additional plan and time to get the job I wanted to get done, done. The 2025R is at least 6-8" higher due to the larger tires it has. The other result of this increased ground clearance is you are sitting higher on the machine, and it is easier to work underneath the tractor for any maintenance Other noticeable differences is due to the wheel base being about 10" longer, there is different feel to the ride which is nice. Don't get me wrong, the 1025R is a very capable machine. For the incremental performance capabilities that I found myself needing is what drove my decision to upgrade to the 2025R. If your budget can afford the incremental added cost of the 2025R, the added capabilities are an excellent return of value.
Upgrading from the 1023E to a 2025R you will really feel/see a large performance difference. Both from the increased HP, as well as the larger flow, higher pressure hydraulic pump on the 2025R. The down side will be almost none of your attachments will be able to swap over, except for what you mount to your 3-Point Hitch. I had this surprise when I upgraded from my 2017 1025R to this 2019 2025R. Yes, JD made some great design changes in how the attachments now mount, that include for the Back Hoe a much improved routing/location of the hydraulic lines (now you don't step on them when using it) as well as foot steps and handles to get on and off the machine. You won't regret the upgrade - good luck.
The discharge chute does not have a "control cable", to change the angle of the chute when operating the snow thrower. If you look closely at the discharge chute toward the top you can see a thumb screw to loosen, manually adjust the chute angle and re-tighten. John Deere does not provide a location/mount to manually adjust the chute angle using a control cable from the driver's seat. What is offered by after market providers is an electrically driven hydraulic unit that you can attach to the chute and control the chute angle from the driver's position. It needs to be electrically driven hydraulic unit as there isn't a third hydraulic circuit provided in the standard configuration. In the last year John Deere is now offering this additional hydraulic circuit as a dealer installed option to drive a hydraulic unit that you then attach to the discharge chute. Thanks for watching!
I have thought about a cab several times. For me the negatives out way the benefits of having a Cab starting with it's permanently mounted to the tractor. By far, I use my tractor much much more in the warmer/hotter times of the year. It gets incredibly hot inside that cab, especially on the real bright sunny days. Even with the windows that open, it simply does not get enough fresh air from the outside in to keep it from getting hot and is very uncomfortable for me. For me its a trade off between the relatively little time I use it in the winter for snow clearing, vs the greater amount of use it gets the rest of the year when its great to be out in the open driving my preference not to put a cab on. A thermal pair of Carhart pants & jacket, with ski gloves and a wool cap keep me toasty warm when in the snow with it. Thanks for watching - !
The John Deere enclosed cab offered for the 2025R does not have a factory option for Air Conditioning. The larger 2032 & 2038 models do have this available as an option from John Deere. Those that have added A/C to a 2025R enclosed cab are with 3rd party units and not installed by a John Deere dealer - and they won't. John Deere dealers also won't service or repair cabs that have been modified for AC, nor will they service/repair the other modifications to the tractor that are needed. To install these units holes have to be cut either in the roof, or in the plexglass to mount. This VOIDS all warranty on the cab. Additionally, modifications are required to the electrical system to provide power again voiding equipment warranties.
