I would just like to add that wrench is called a crow's foot. The rusty ball parts you found are for the float detent. Your blower lift cylinder should be connected to those two connections to allow the blower to float with no down pressure when that lever is fully moved forward. The downside of buying a used item is you have no idea how long will it last before the same thing happens again. But I would have done the same thing as everything Deere is very expensive. I likely would have tried to repair the assembly before I purchased another. Other than that, very helpful video.
Outstandiing video. I broke the cap and lost the two ball bearings. I ordered a replacement spool valve for $129 from eBay. I moved the cap to the existing spool valve BUT did not understand placement of the two ball bearings. Now I do. I removed the cap, removed the side plugs, removed the springs, removed the ball bearings, cleaned everything, installed the caps and inserted the ball bearings and installed the side plugs. To you: thank you. It works perfectly now.
it doesn't need to be replaced with a new part when t has just been unused for years. minnesota equipment dealer in rogers mechanic told me the trick is to take the side covers off and use cleaning penetrating oil as it's just seized, like all rusty things heating stuff up helps, but really you don't need to do that with all the rubber seals in it, there are spring tensioned parts that will explode out after you take the cap bolts off so hold a finger over the cap and slowly let each come out and have another hand or parts bucket/tray right below to catch everything that springs out and look at the order of it all as you remove it. i disconnected the steering column lever and used some heavy handed persuasion with a 2 pound and a flat head round punch to get things moving before hitting it with the penetrating oil and then the lubricating oil and reconnecting the steering column handle lever and working it back and forth each way a couple hundred times until it felt as smooth as the working one before reassembling the spring valves and securing the cap covers. you only need to remove the cover of the stuck one, usually it is the top one the deere mechanics said goes unused for years as most every one just uses the up down function for the mower deck.
I am doing same job, now, all ready ruined the replacement bought on ebay, cant remember how to reconnect chain link connecters to flat linkage and spool rods , you did not show how you connected the linkage under machine, I tried to apart the spool rods on new one and messed them up, any tips would be helpfull , thanks jim
Hi, Jim. The master links have a release plate at the top. The lock slides on and off over the pins. In my video, start watching at 1:40 mark and you’ll see and hear me talk about those little boogers.
I did not. It's part of the hydro drive system. Very little fluid came out when I disconnected the lines and it immediately primed when I went to use it.
