Overhaul my butt. front and rear main seals are critical to the successful and lasting overhaul. And before you get froggy in the comments, 48 years as a mechanic including as a Cat dealership mechanic.
They did get done. Not everything was recorded, I get paid to wrench not make videos. 48 years as a mechanic and all you saw missing in this video was front and rear mains? Lots more important steps were left out. Everything was done to spec and by the book
Really great video mate. 2 questions though. Is there a reason that the sleeve and piston are installed together? And also I noticed you lower the block onto the sump during reinstall. Is this where the motor mates with the engine mounts? Is it not easier to mount the sump on before marrying the engine to the vehicle?
@@hoffhofmeier so Deere sends their piston and cylinders together and that makes it easier on me because I can just pull the piston out far enough to get to the wrist pin and install the connecting rods. Its convenient because then I dont have to think about staggering the piston ring gaps because its been done from the factory. And the oil sump or pan is basically a part of the frame or chassis. So there arent any engine mounts per say, the bolts that hold the oil sump on are the bolts that merry the engine to the machine. They are heavy duty one time use bolts that have a torque to yeild or torque-turn sequence.
@@theanchorite4 thanks Elias. Like all these things I figured there would be a good reason for a set work flow and practice. It's really interesting though, thanks. Only problem now is you've sparked more questions in my mind. When you pre prime the oiling system, prior to start up, do you have a some fancy John deere tool to externally engage the engines oil pump or do you simply hand crank on an external pump to fill the oil galleries? In line with the torque to yield bolt set you mentioned for the oil pan, what else is a replaced fastener in an overhaul/reconditioning on this engine? I.e head bolts etc?
@@hoffhofmeier there is no tool or procedure for priming the oil system although I do go a bit above and beyond on my rebuilds. First I use an engine assembly lube that I have alot of faith in (Federal Mogul assembly lube if you want to look it up) but I also make sure to fill the oil filter canister just before cranking, and there is an electronic compression test that I can run with my laptop which basically disables the injectors so I am able to crank the machine to prime the oil system without it firing up. On the non reusable service parts you have your typical bolts (head, connecting rod cap , craink main, rocker, sump, flywheel, blancer and dampener) but what might differ with modern machines like this is that its HPCR fuel system can produce something like 40,000 psi. Because of that, what I understand is they use a softer metal for the fuel line mating surfaces so they are a one time use item. Whenever removing injectors you have to replace the nozzle or bullet that runs to it, as well as all injector lines.
My hats off to anyone capable of this teardown/rebuild. I service our tractors at work, (annual, winterize) that's about as far as I'm willing to go with just a manual. Nice work!!
Yo siempre saque los pistones de los cilindros me ha encantado .en este mundo no sé para de aprender. GRACIAS ME HA ENCANTADO TU VIDEO , ES ANTIGUO PERO NO HABIA TENIDO EL GUSTO DE VERLO
Simply amazing overhaul. Your setting the standards there. I've overhauled 6059D and 6068T engine recently and they proven to be a good work out on each rebuild. I needed the extra breakfast top up to keep the energy fueled. All the best with the next green tractor that rolls in.
Thank you for producing and broadcasting this video, it's very interesting to see the larger workshops repairing considerably larger, heavier and more powerful machines than I ever got to work on in my motorcycle workshop! I think the largest machine I ever worked of was the Honda Gold Wing, something that would barely be powerful enough to be a starter motor on some of the construction, agriculture and mining machines I see on YT! I always enjoy watching Professional Mechanics and Engineers at their craft, and I respect that you take the time to answer viewers questions.
thats actually the ivt transmission calibrating. turbos are hard to hear on these newer tractors with the dpf filters and all...they sound dope with pipe removed behind the turbo. every engine i do i always run it awhile without the exhaust hooked up its fun
I spent many happy days stripping and rebuilding Rolls Royce diesel engines. Never did find anything wrong, all research work. Some of them were so old the parts list was in Latin. The CV12 sounded lovely at 1200BHP but I only did a bit on one engine. Never did see it run at 1500BHP. Gardner engines were also very well made but gone the way of the old Detroit two strokes - lovely sound. As for the Chieftain L60, not a bad engine but it was made by British Leyland - kiss of death, bloody butchers the way they were assembled. That engine did look a bit new for such a major overhaul, no doubt quite a few hours under it's belt. Reading the comments below why is it you always get some r - sole. Great video, brought back some fond memories.
Thanks for posting the cool video. I was a mechanic for 41 years . The last 30 years working on John Deere . I rebuilt one of these 9.0 litres in a feller buncher as my last job before hanging up my tools. I did take still pictures but my computer crashed and lost them all. I enjoyed watching your video . Like the other commenters , My boss also wanted me to work that fast !
athalye rajan find a few junk mowers and take them apart, once you get comfortable with it you’ll start learning. I hope you don’t mind getting your hands dirty. It’s actually therapeutic for me, anyhow, good luck.
RJ 1999 he wouldn’t have reused the headbolts and thats not why you shouldn’t rattle gun a head off, its to prevent shockloading the head and damaging any valve spring assemblies, it is just good practice. I have no problems with anyone using a rattle gun to run bolts out but i was taught that a rattle gun has no place in an engine rebuild. But they are better for time efficiency.
@@mullet2006 It wouldn't shock load a head, and the valve spring would be releasing the tension much slower then when the engine is running. Have been a diesel mechanic for 30+ years already have always used an impact to disassemble an engine, have had 0 issues with it, some head bolts you cannot get out without using an impact. I do not do automotive engines, so you may be correct in that application
When you can find a great diesel or gasoline engine rebuilding mechanic you have found a gold mine a trust worthy one,one that is dependable and reliable,some one you can trust .
I used to think I could drop piston & liners assembly's in without inspection. Until I had a unit suffering from excessive oil consumption. Blow by seemed high, and one cylinder was lower on compression. Pull it apart and it had a cracked compression ring. Get the new assy and I decide to check it. Rings were fine, but all the gaps were lined up. I talk with a few friends that turn wrenches, and one of them also had caught an instance with the gaps all lined up. Just something to think about.
You are a complete Rockstar for loosening the head bolts with the ratchet first, before using the impact to drive them out the rest of the way. Those A+i towels are THE BEST, I always use those as well. The only surprise to me was the torque sequence on the head. I don't think I ever seen it done like that. It usually circles out small to big from the center bolt pair, not in a large circle along the sides. Deere's head gaskets really compress well from the core out. Also, installing piston pairs cuts the install time down a bit more, since you turn the crank half the amount. The gasket kit was aftermarket? Usually the liner compression o-ring is black, the green one I have seen as the seal ring to the coolant channel. Anyway, nice clean job! Well done!
I haven't rebuilt on of the 6090 engines yet but on some of the newer Perkins the headbolts torque from the outside corners to the middle . If you start in the middle and work out it will blow a gasket in a matter of minutes .
ObsessionPC thank you for the kind words, When making and posting this video I figured the RU-vid trolls would come out to tell me everything I was doing wrong haha. Theres also alot of precision work I did that didnt get recorded but maybe I'll work on posting some more detailed videos. And everything Installed was factory Deere, I've seen the black liner rings before but all the it4 engines I've done have been green
wow, how many bolts around a cylinder? Indeed, it is crucial to stick to the manufacturers torque procedure to the "T", they do it that way for a reason, right? Thanks for sharing that.
Nah, typical technician talk, we all do it better from watching somebody else turning the wrenches :P I really like how systematic you did this job. I hate watching guys do hack jobs. Thanks for the details!
As a guy who’s tinkered with car engines a bit, just wanted to ask about the tool that seems to extract each piston. How is it pulling the piston out? I’m only familiar with the “turn block upside down , tap on rods to push out piston” style.
Beautiful video. Looks such a good idea to send the cylinders and the pistons "fixed". This way not need to suffering with good pistonring angles. And the wrestling with "rings in to the cylinder" without one of them breake "performance" cancelled by the factory. Very very goog idea. I fix russian tractors. They are simple, but sometimes they make serious headache :) Thanks.
