Good job.. The clutch on my x540 just separated and fell onto mower deck 2 hours ago. This video showed me exactly what I need to do. Found my 09 x540 at Tractor House and my lovely bride thought I was crazy for the 900 mile round trip to pick it up. Been the best investment ever made. She's worn out 2 cars since it's purchase.
Used this video to replace my PTO clutch on my x530. He was dead on correct on all the steps and made the replacement a total two process and saved me $170 of John Deere dealership labor cost.
JD X350-200 hours...I have a dead short in my pto wiring...I replaced the pto switch and it still blows the 7.5amp fuse every time I pull up the switch...gonna try and replace the electric clutch, thanks to your video it looks easy...I'll just winch the tractor upright on a big tree branch and hope it doesn't kill me lol...great video brother
Very nice video. I see no reason to pull off the bolt that keeps the clutch from turning. The whole clutch will come out without disconnecting it. If you need to use it on a new clutch, it is easier to do it with the clutch in place as he did. If you are installing a new clutch, that pin should also be replace, but if not the old one will have to come off. I have successfully repaired this clutch and re-used them rather than replace with a new one - the bearing can be replaced if it wears out and if the center bolt breaks or twists off, it too can be replaced. The only problem is to reassemble the clutch - the lower plate must go above the magnet which is quite difficult to do, but it is possible as long as the keyed portion of the drum is allowed to tilt until the plate is between the upper edge of the magnet and the upper clutch surface. Once that is together, the bottom collar may be installed into the keyed portion of the drum with the key aligned in the hub's keyway slot. If the whole assembly including the anti-rotation pin are assembled together and then slid onto the engine's crank until the bolt reaches the crank hole where it fits, it is not necessary to locate the keyway and the key until after the bolt is started a few turns. But as the video shows, if the keyway can be located and marked so that it matches, it will be easier. The clutch must be turned until the anti-rotate pin goes into the hole for it. Then once it starts into the hole the bottom collar can be turned so that the key and the keyway align and the clutch will slip upward into place. It helps if you have marked the location of the keyway on the collar and know which way that the keyway is positioned on the engine crank so that you can position the collar to align the two while keeping the clutch anti-rotate pin in the right spot as the collar is positioned. As the main bolt is tightened, it will become clear if the key is slipping into the keyway. You should be able to push the assembly upward - if you cannot, your key and keyway are probably not aligned. If the bolt has broken, you can find a new grade 8 bolt of the right size at TSC or any other place that sells fasteners like them or from JD. The bolt is 7/16" grade 8 fine thread. It is about 4.5" long, but match up the bolt you buy with the bolt that broke if you found it after it broke. It is very important to tighten the bolt to the proper torque - about 55 - 70 lbs-ft. The video says 55 and that should be fine. If it gets loose, the clutch will wobble for awhile till the bolt breaks off. This will necessitate drilling a hole in the stub still in the engine crankshaft pulley and turning the stub out with an extraction tool. I have successfully done this a few times and the clutch continued to be used very heavily for several years each time before failing again. I have repaired that beaten up clutch three or four times and it still works.
Why don’t you make us a video. I really can’t understand what you said. I was gonna just do like he showed in the video and pray my mower works. I’m not a mechanic of any sort but I can change parts and can handle the torque wrench part but that’s about it and it’s best if I see someone do it first. You sound like you have a lot more instructions to bring for this repair.
@@e.t.preppin7084 - yes, it is difficult to make sense regarding my prose without particularly dedicated video. That said, he has done an excellent job on the video and if someone wants to nuance it a little based on my text, I would not object. Your approach (of using his) is the best for you. If you study over my comments before you start, you might find something that will help you as you do his process, Either way you win if you see what I am talking about as you work, you win also if you don't as long as the end product functions. I recently changed out the main drivebelt on our X320. The instructions I found in a couple of videos said to take off the coupler between the clutch and the pony tail on the clutch. But I didn't and did not have a wire to hold the clutch suspended. While I was working on installing the belt, the entire clutch fell, breaking the red wire right at the end where it enters the clutch. That was a needless pita because it would have forced me to replace the $130 clutch. I took the clutch out and soldered pigtails on both wires then created a manual joint on each. I managed to get it working and while I was gone getting a quadruple bypass, the fellow in charge of it with me out, reinstalled the mower and used it - I am almost certain that my 'repair' will fail after some use, but as far as I know it is still going, The point is that sometimes even MacGyver tricks don't work very long, don't if you do not have to. LOL, I don't think a video from me is likely!
Great video thank you Sir. Does anyone know what my problem is? I have a JD 310x, 4-5 years old. When I go to engage mower, engine immediately shudders to a halt. I’ve had a good go at looking for something wedged and cables/connections. My pto switch clicks fine when i try with just battery and engine off. Seat switch seems fine. Belt seems ok. No change of performance when I’m not moving or when tractor is moving. Thanks folks 👍
So I watched this video for the tear down and saw my bearing was roached. So between then and when my new clutch showed up I forgot how it went back in and installed it upside down then torched my belt when the blades engaged😐 man I hate being stupid🤦🏼♂️
thanks, mine has a short to ground in the wire or clutch windings, 67 hrs on clock, main fuse blows, so never knew where the clutch was until you showed me, by the way it's a keyway not a slot
Brutal job mostly because the lawn mower is really hard to jack up to get in a place to work on it. Best would be lifting straight up on the back wheels but its really hard to hold it steady there. I ended up doing it on my back with all four on the ground. That was tough. I had to use a gear puller :/ Would you put locktite blue on the main bolt? It seems that it could (and would) walk its way out...
Just lift the front end of the tractor until the tractor is vertcal. I used the forks on my bigger tractor (deere 4700) and a chain, but a solid beam or an engine hoist could be put to work lifting it too.
@@siggp211should the clutch just slide up on I have a simplicity that I replaced the bearing in the clutch but I can’t get it to go on should I just use some sand paper and sand down the shaft until it slides on with a little force? What should I do
My gt235 falls on its face / battery light comes on when engaging blades..... Yet seems to be charging as it's holding about 13.6 volt without blades moving
Haven’t been able to chase down the problem yet. The blades won’t engage on the deck. Wasn’t able to look at anything yet cause I had to get to work. Anyone know what to test first? Just picked up the tractor, it has 400 hours and was well maintained. X320. Hearing that I need to test the safety switches first, seat, brake etc.
