Thanks, this video is very informative! I would really like to see you do a short video of actually removing a stubborn plug or one with the screwdriver slot stripped out using easy-outs and/or heat.
Good vid !! Well explained I watched it a few times be sure to watch this for a great break down on your old DLTX carbs need to do my old A but struggle getting bits for it in England so will have to do with just a clean for now .
Its a good idea unless there's a lot of rust and buildup on the walls of the passage. The proper sized drill bits take the passages back to their original size
Would the carburetor on a X530 be about the same? My husband had both knee’s replaced last summer so he hired someone to cut the grass with their own equipment, and our mower didn’t get started or have gas treatment added to it during the winter. After changing the oil and filter, fuel filter plus air filter this spring the mower seemed to be doing great except after about 20 to 30 minutes of running it just stops, and then backfires at times, but it doesn’t backfire every time it stops. It always starts right back up do you think carburetor cleaner would help ? The closest JD dealer is 200 miles one way…the mower has 80 hours on it, and it’s a 2012 X530. I think he’s going to get a new set of plugs and see if that helps, but it runs so good until it just stops which makes things confusing….Oh, and he also said it has stopped more while cutting in the back yard on a incline the front yard is level. He was going to look for help on here, but he works nights and sleeps all day so I thought I would ask….sorry for the book I just wrote, but this was the only way I knew to tell you about it…lol…by the way he called the JD dealer where he bought it, and all they would say was bring it in he just hated driving 200 miles one way for maybe a 30 minute fix, but he may have to. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thank You
Lucy Lee this carb goes on an antique tractor, your x530 will be quite a bit smaller and more modern. by your symptoms I can thing of two things happening: a swollen seat in the carb lowers the float level and starves the engine for fuel, and when on an incline the fuel in the bowl shifts and the engine dies, or under heavy load it sucks up all the gas in the carb before it can replenish it, or its an ignition coil cutting out. however if you can restart it that leads me to believe its more carburetor related. best of luck to you both!
Farm Boy Trained a new needle and seat for sure, but if thats sticking or bad then its probably a good idea to clean the whole thing and check out anything else that may need replaced
The carburetor didn’t shut off the fuel and partially filled the cylinder. Then the fuel traveled to the crankcase. Always shut off the fuel at the sediment bowl. The float in the carburetor or the needle valve is the cause of the problem. The weight of the fuel in the tank causes the problem.
Jimmy's Tractors alright thanks I got a John Deere B that DEFINITELY would like this. What carborator is that off of looks just like mine but i know they made similar looking ones. How much would a kit and the tools cost? Thanks for that vid Really found it interesting 👍
Is the nozzle orientated (clocked) a certain way when putting back in? The one I obtained is really dirty and can not see the orifices, so wanted to make sure after pulling and cleaning. Thanks.
HI, I'm attempting to rebuild the DLTX-10 on my John Deere B. I think my biggest problem will be removing the brass drill plugs and large brass Float Bearings that hold the float pin in place. The biggest problem is that many of the screw slots are nearly stripped out from previous owner's attempts at carb rebuilding. Any suggestions on getting the plugs out that a screwdriver can't get a good grip on?
Once heated with a mapp gas setup. They will come out. You will need to drill them, maybe. Heat them up just until you see a little bit of blue flame. Robert’s Carburetor has a good video. Well worth the money. Good luck!!!
