I’ve seen a lot of people try to explain this and i always think to myself wow you have really made this process over complicated and very confusing and you video was the 101 class that people should be watching if they want the easy straightforward way of doing this. Cheers 🍻
Thanks!! Was working behind someone on a 110hp V4. Checked timing and #1 was missing “it was actually 180 out”. Swapped #1 & #3 coil signal wires…. Runs like a champ.
Appreciate your video. I'm doing it now on a 200hp johnson. I replaced all of the engine electric from top to bottom, all thats left to do is timing and fingers crossed. Again thank you and wish me luck👍
Good morning here i have a problem with a johson 25 hp from 1978 i redid the piston as well as the segments and i have a pressure leak from the magnetic flywheel oil seal and if possible have a video of how to adjust the magnetic flywheel timing and the flywheel plate caper thank you
If the first two marks is piston #1 touch the screw driver then shouldn't rotating the fly wheel halfway between those to marks put piston #1 @ the bottom of the stroke?
if the timing was set properly before the indicator was moved, and the timing wasn't touched since it should be right. if the pointer was not adjusted properly then the timing was set then yes the timing would be out of spec, though probably close. however, you want it at spec especially for WOT timing
Your video is confusing! You never say what size motor you are working on and in video you said piston hit the screwdriver than fell off then you moved the flywheel and said the piston is falling off again? Are you checking two different pistons??
This is not accurate. Use a piston stop. Easy. The stop should be long enough that the piston is "down a ways" and it does not matter how far. Gently rotate engine until piston stops against the tool. Make a temporary mark onto the flywheel under the pointer / TDC mark. Do the same except rotate engine CCW. Now you will have two temporary marks, and TDC will be halfway in between. Move the pointer half the distance of the error, and in about two tries you will have it corrected. It would be better to fabricate a new plate that is wide enough to mark, just make your two marks, divide the marks in half, and make your big TDC mark, then time it.
Folks this is not rocket science. I'm 75, and made my first piston stop for a SB and B/RB Mopars in the early SEVENTIES and I STILL HAVE my SB stop. I've made others since then for other purposes and engines. You saw around the crimp on an old plug, use a hammer and punch to force out the ceramic, then tap the shell for a bolt. Use a locknot to stabilize the bolt, and sand/ grind the bolt end for a somewhat rounded end so that it does not damage the piston. Be gentle and feel for the stop when rotating. DISconnect the battery!!!
