I'm so glad my first instinct in the very beginning was a sheared flywheel key and it turned out correct, because it means my mechanical knowledge and spidey senses are getting finely tuned. Thanks for the video! Always good teaching moments to be had.
Thanks for sharing buddy, ya always teach this ol dog a few new tricks! Walt says "hey". He's learning how to properly park per your example from the other night. I'm not giving up on him...yet anyway.
Great Video! I love the content you’ve put out, especially those tear down videos. Sort of off topic question, I have a E185fpxsif …. It needed a new stator so with that came off the flywheel. Any idea what the torque specs would be for the stator and flywheel on the 2001 E175 FICHT Ram outboard? Thanks Brandon. Love these videos!! Gives me confidence when I’ve got troubleshooting to tackle.
I have watched videos for five years trying to get my 96 70 hp Johnson evinrude to run like it should. When I bought it everything was messed with.Knowing nothing about this engine I of course watched all the wrong videos up until now. Great fucking video this was the missing link for me,my engine is happy as a prostitute tenting in a army base👍🏻. Takk skal du ha nå kan jeg dra på viking i sommer👍🏻🇳🇴✌🏻
@@BrandonsGarage Hey sorry for the late reply. The issues was the same as on the engine in the video,everything was adjusted wrong. When you measured the length on the wot screw in the video what was your measurement do you remember?. On my engine the wot screw has only a couple of threads left and on yours it was much further in so was wondering about that. Thanks in advance ✌🏻
Another area on these and V engines is epoxied sensor hub on flywheel coming loose. Look for notch with dab of paint. If it’s off,it’s a good bet it’s spun.
Love all the videos you have posted. what is the normal operating temperature range for 70HP 2 stroke Johnson motor and where should I the temperature with the IR gun? 145 degrees at the T-stat. 170 degrees near the bottom spark plug. 180 degrees at the bottom cylinder. these temperatures were taken at around 1000 RPM. is the motor overheating? Thanks.
Brandon, I have the very same engine. I took it out on the lake and dialed it in and she runs great. Your thoughts would be welcomed. Thank you for the video.
Thanks for your help Brandon...I was hoping you would know what online website manual would you suggest to buy...n download the manual online for a J70elerv 94 70hp Johnson outboard.
Could you please tell me what the measurement or length on the wide open throttle screw is in this video?. Have the same engine so it would be interesting to compare
When operating the throttle on the engine by hand. How tight is it supposed to be. I’m having an issue and don’t know if it’s the throttle cable, control box internals, or the tightness of the throttle on the motor. Hope this makes sense what I’m asking. Thank you for your time sir!
Brandon, What if the idle timing was more like 180 degrees out? It still starts and runs. '88 V4 Looper with quick start. Flywheel key not sheared and magnets in the correct position.
The manual says that to set the timing on a Johnson evinrude 1996 70 hp 3cyl engine the following steps need to be followed . 1: Center timing pointer and rotate the flywheel in a clockwise direction 4 cm past the timing pointer and make a mark (A). 2: Insert piston stoppage tool in spark plug hole and adjust the screw until the tool touches the piston. 3: Rotate the flywheel until the piston hits the stoppage tool again and mark on the flywheel point (B). 4: with a flexible measurement tool measure the distance between point A and B. The halfway point between these to marks is the true timing point. If the pointer does not hit incastmark T on the flywheel then move the pointer and tighten screw. Will your method give the same results?
Got a 79 85hp that was running good and then started miss firing or was fuel starved rebuild the carbs and replaced all fuel lines but still misses. Does good out of the hole but at higher rpm just wants to go but feels like it's missing
I have a question, when i push the lever to wide open and the cam does not push all the way open is this likely a cable adjustment i have never ran the engine yet personal, does the engine need to be running under load to wide open linkage to be working
@@BrandonsGarage loved that remote start tool - right up there with the ones they used to include with cigarettes. Tin foil diagnostics are valuable in field.
I have the same 60hp tracker motor, I’m going crazy with this motor. New rebuild kits in the carbs. Ran great this past Saturday but idled low I had a buddy adjust it and it idled better but Sunday it would not idle, kept coughing and gas was coming out the carbs a little and wouldn’t stay running unless under power. Is this a timing issue? I’m really leaning towards it, I’m about to pull my hair out. First boat and I’m trying to learn.
I have watched your videos back to back on a Johnson and evinrude motors. I have a 4 hp evinrude, and on my starter it makes a clanking noises when I pull it. We pulled it off and redid it. When the housing is by itself the string pulls super smooth. But when I put the housing on the motor it doesn't spin right
@@ajtrott9096 sounds like its binding. loosen the little support bracket 5/16'' screw and move the starter down a bit until it perfectly meshes with the flywheel teeth when the geared arm is up/in its engage position. might need to loosen the big 9/16'' nut to get it to move. do not overtighten!
good morning my 70 tl from 1995 does not spark from any of the three spark plugs. i tested key and killswich is ok. starter motor turns. how to test stator and powerpack? Or can there be more? Thanks Niko
@@mjodr sure. flywheel is held or pressed on to crankshaft taper with nut to lock it together. the key is just there for timing sensor reference. if the flywheel breaks loose, it looses much of its taper lock. must be lapped together with the flywheel to bring it back to tolerance.
do you have a good, slow video on how to set up timing and idle on these engines? My 92 does not have a timing advance. Not sure how to adjust hi speed timing short of being on a boat with a timing light...not exactly safe. I rebuilt my carbs this year, and found some air leaks, made a big improvement.
look under the flywheel just to the rear of #1 (top) carb. there is a bolt with a locknut and a rubber bumper/stop. note: high speed timing is a set and forget thing from the factory. if you want to check it, first correctly set the timing pointer with the piston stop tool. then attach a timing light and open the throttle all the way. you are looking for about 13 degrees at WOT, which translate to 17 degrees when running.
@@ct1762 Thanks, I totally missed that part. I had a power head rebuilt 20 years ago (VRO failed) and spent half a day tightening all the bolts once I got it back; who knows if they messed with the high speed timing or not. ( what was the length of that top bolt, want to verify). It runs fine at full throttle, getting 5200 rpm with an aluminum prop. I forgot the pitch. I got the repair manual, but photos in it suck, much better watching someone in a video.
Mot people don't recognize it as Joe's method. I see the RU-vid videos where others poorly demonstrate how to do it, and give no mention of Joe, the original author.
One would argue the ease of starting with a CDI system is superior; however I would disagree. My 1970? 6 HP starts just as easilly, if not better than the 1988 6 HP.
I did spend over 20 years working at a Johnson / Evinrude dealership as the head mechanic I learned a few things and 2 degrees is a starting point until the lake test or test wheel the motor
Brandon, can this method be used on a 88spl? With a wot advance timing at 28degrees btdc? If so would I still need to compensate like you did with my numbers? Thanks in advance
depending on the year, you wont need to worry about the fast start. Also, the needing timing is probably different. As far as the cranking, full throttle, with timing light, subtracting 4degrees, yes; you can get your desired timing.
@@BrandonsGarage thank you, it’s an 1987 so no fast start. With this method I was at 24 and was out of every adjustment. Then I heard you say minus 4 degrees so if I add that I’m at 28 which would be the correct timing.
@@BrandonsGarage true. Joe reeves method seems to be the only way unless you like sitting next to a motor at wot trying to read your timming light. -4degrees it is. Have you compared the 2 ways? Do cranking method than check it at wot on the water? People are saying longevity of the motor as a reason not to do joe reeves method and to do wot on the water. I know some leave their boat on the trailer and do it at the put in.
@bertrenolds5 I used to get my hands on a lot of low hour, good running, origional (never been screwed with) engines, and I did the WOT timing check on a lot of them, and they were dead on at -4° (almost like that's how he figured it out too) thus I never purchased test props for the larger/newer engines, as the method works perfectly.
@@BrandonsGarage nice thanks for the replys. I have a 1991 60hp Evinrude I have been battling, think I had my forward idle set too low. Im going thru my link and sync with my manual again so setting the wot timming is a must. Thanks.
Ur checking that timing wrong. Timing marks on the fly is only ensync with cyln #1. If it’s off the only possible explanation is fly wheel key shredded off. Had that happen to me & hard starting with backfire. Change pp, stator, timer base to troubleshoot it. Even though I had spark. Until I research the backfire online & found the answer my travel timing way off.
@@mjodr yeah I didn't. I had the same problem where a motor I bought with issues timing & link & sync were all thinker with by a backyard mechanic to try & get a running.
