My oiler quit working. An internet search failed to find anything helpful to fix it myself, so I had to figure it out. Maybe this will help some of you!
Thank you for the information. I used your rope in the piston trick and it worked perfect. I couldn’t find a suitable piece of wood for the tool unfortunately, however I found that you can just use a couple of short bolts and nuts threaded though a hole and slot on the chainsaw bar itself and it works quite well. Thanks again for the information!
I used the bar also. The oil holes was spaced just right..but i dont like to put stuff in the cylinder so i used the carb adjustment screwdriver as a lever against the magneto fans and it opened easily. Now i need to take the whole engine apart to change the fuel line ;( damn these plastic machines
👍Awesome👍Awesome👍 Thank You👍My Kind Of Tool _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_ I have The Same Exact Saw & Same Exact Issue & Now I Can Get The Clutch Off To Check The (cheap ass plastic)Gear. There Should Be A Law That All Parts Must Be Made Of A Metal In Any Tool That Heats Up or Is Put Thru Stress!!! Guaranteed To Always Fail😞
Well done, but just as easy is:- you see the two divots right next to where "off" is stamped in the clutch? if you have a brass rod, put the end in the divot and whack the other end with a hammer (still have to jam the piston with the rope as you have shown) and it will also undo the clutch bundle.
Hey, on my 2245 there is a hole in the blow wheel on the other side you can put a skrewdriwer ore something in to stop the engene from turning. So you don't have to make your wooden device. Sorry for my bad spelling i am Danish :)
I've learned that you can get this problem if you run summer weight bar oil when it's freezing. The oil gets too thick to run through the system and it can cause that screw gear to strip.
The No1 cause of this problem is not the nylon plasic part but the end user!! Blunt chain or heavy revving while the chain brake is ingaged both cause high temperatures from the clutch and crank shaft causing thermal overload = melting parts
I ment you don´t have to do the rope thing. For removing the cluths you can take a skrewdrive and give it a tap on the markings.Kind regards from Denmark
Great video, even better idea. Quick question... in your video, the outer housing of the clutch and the inner part section appear to spin independently of each other. Is this normal, or had you already loosened the inner section before making the video? Reason I ask is because on my saw these spin together. Thanks.
The inner part is like brake shoes. When not revolving, they should spin freely of each other. The springs you see give just enough tension that, when given throttle, the inner part revolves fast enough to fling the brake shoes outward, engaging the clutch.
@@petercollin5670 Thank you. That makes perfect sense. The reason I'm looking at the video in the first place is because, 1. when I apply the chain brake, the engine bogs down and dies either straight away (or in a couple of seconds), and 2. I can only start the engine with the chain brake disengaged (dangerous), so the chain constantly runs when the engine is running. I'd already cleaned the bar and chain, checked the bar oiler was working, adjusted the chain tension and the idle speed. Nothing seemed to make a difference, so I suspected there was a problem with the clutch. It must be gummed up so badly that the clutch is acting more like a gear than a clutch. I can't seem to find the clutch removal tool in the UK, so I'll use your idea to remove the clutch and get it cleaned. My own fault for not cleaning it more often. Much obliged for your help!
@@petercollin5670 I think that's entirely possible. I'll invest in a new clutch, which seems to be fairly inexpensive to buy, and widely available in my region. I had another look at it today. By jamming a screwdriver vertically through the gaps in the impeller, this works as a piston block. After which, I opened the clutch side, and was able to get the clutch housing to move independently of the clutch by turning it back & forth a few times. However, there was still a lot of friction, which (as you suggested) could mean weak springs. A few dribbles of maintenance oil, and I managed to get the housing & chain spinning free from the clutch. Although, I believe this is supposed to be a dry clutch. Is my assumption here correct? If so, I suspect I'll experience a lack of chain speed under load, as the oil will cause a lack of friction between the clutch and chain sprocket. Pretty sure now it needs new clutch springs. Thanks for your help!
@@ottofumbler7267 You may need to adjust your (L)ow end Adjustment screw to get your idle down To stop chain spinning. I've never had or Seen a clutch so dirty it engaged enough To spin the chain and I've had them packed full from laziness too... Oops... Didn't look at post date😂
