At $14.50 for a ham plain these things are absolutely amazing!! Works just as well as my lie Nielsen, or any premium planer ,,, Has a nice thick blade , extremely stable. I give this plane a AAAA. The plane does its job.
I purchased one to replace my Stanley 12-101 which was bent metal construction - not much difference in the price. The Jorgensen is a good solid trim plane for your carpenters pouch - to be honest I mostly use it for sharpening pencils - very handy and exact for that purpose!
Informative review! Thanks for adding a list of small makers in the description. When you got to that portion of the video I was disappointed you didn't recommend any, but you did after all!
Thanks for watching! Small makers who's work I admire would take an entire video by itself. I figured the description was the best way to hAnsley it so I could continuously update it.
Thanks for a top review of this plane. I have a weakness for block planes and was pleased to see this plane has a blade of some thickness not the paper thin blades seen on some cheap block planes. Another plane that is of the same type and is an almost exact copy of the LN 101 violin makers plane is the Luban 101 block plane. Its performance is nearly identical to the LN.. I have upgraded the occasional Stanley 101 model makers plane with a Veritas blade from their little Victor block plane which is jut that little bit thicker and takes a fine edge. The Veritas pocket plane you listed has a bed angle in the middle around 15 degrees. I have a couple one in stainless and one in iron, they both perform really well. I did try to buy the Jorgensen "102" from Lowes only to find they do not ship to Australia. I will keep an eye out on ebay and Amazon as I hope they will eventually be available there. All the best.
Fyi, I have one as well, flattened the sole, filed a bit on the sides of the inside of the shoulders (for lateral blade adjustment), and put a secondary bevel on it, and I’m getting sub .001” shavings with it on SYP.
What annoys me about mine, which I have had for a couple years now, is that the depth adjustment tends to throw the blade out of square. Maybe lubricating the contact points might help
I bought one. Spent 1-1/2 hours stripping the orange paint. Flattened the bottom, and the cap iron. The frog was flat on mine. Performed fabulous after honing. BTW, this plane is virtually an exact copy of the Lie-Nielsen version.
Nice review! I always stare hard with temptation at the other jorgensen planes at Lowes, particularly the smoother. Kind of reminds me of a budget early pattern Bedrock after watching Rex Krueger’s video on it.
I had the same impression. My first good plane was a Crusader brand version of the Stanley no 4. I believe they were an in house brand for Belknap Hardware back in the day. The Jorgensens seem reminiscent of that era.
Sorry I was asking questions on the IG post when it very clearly stated in your reply thread that there’d be a YT review posted. It’s pretty ignorant that calling this a low-angle block plane made it all the way through the process and actually onto the packaging/marketing material. BTW; if you have a L-N 60-1/2 or 60-1/2R, you’ve got to check out the adjustment knob built with bearings that Reed Planes has started selling (Wood by Wright is selling them too for him)! Absolutely ZERO backlash and is like butter when adjusting; would certainly recommend for your next block plane build. Let me know if you need one for mock up/design. (I’ve got a picture on my IG with one in a °102 and a °97) 👍
It's about 2/3 of my L-N 102, and the fit & finish isn't too bad for $15. It's a good toolbox plane that might take some knocking around. The blade could use a little honing. By the way, a swipe of wax on the sold would result in more energy being put into removing wood instead of heat from friction. I might spring for the 60-1/2, but I doubt it's as good at my old Stanley 60-1/2.
I have not tried that one yet. Have you considered a second hand Stanley? They should be in the same price range as a new Jorgensen and are typically excellent users.
Your rant on blade angle is not 100% spot on, and I do agree with the rest of your opinions. First, there are bevel up and bevel down planes. Most common bench planes are bevel down planes. Second, there are low angle, standard angle and high angle planes in bevel up and bevel down configuration. There are 33 degree bed angle bevel down planes in the English miter plane family. That is considered a low angle bevel down plane. Why 33 degrees? You can hone a 30 degree secondary bevel on the blade and still have 3 degree of relief angle when it's bevel down. Third, I am fairly confident to say most cast iron body block planes are bevel up planes (Stanley 10x series have some bevel down models).12 degree bed is considered low angle, and 20 considered standard angle. With all that said, if this plane comes with a bed angle around 20 degrees, it is a standard angle block plane. It has nothing to do with the blade bevel angle. You can grind a 20 degree blade, put it in this plane, resulting a 40 degree cutting angle. However, it does not change the 20 degree bed angle, so does not change the fact it's a standard angle block plane.
@@EricMeyerMaker that's why I put "not 100% spot on". In the beginning of the rant, you said, bed is 20 degrees, blade is 25, so it's not low angle. Blade bevel angle has nothing to do with "low angle" or "standard angle". That Veritas smoother is still a low angle plane even when you put a high angle blade in it. That's our difference.
With this plane they advertised it as "low angle". I was pointing out that due to the cutting angle (bed + bevel angles) it was not a low angle plane. As for the Veritas, it was manufactured as a low angle plane (12 degree bed + 25 degree bevel) but due to the change in the bevel angle (38 degrees) it is no longer one as the cutting angle has changed (37 cutting to 50 cutting). The cutting angle is the determining factor if a plane is low, standard, or high angle, IMO. I'm not sure if I can edit the video post publishing to make it more clear, but I'll keep it in mind for the next one. Thanks for the feedback.
You must not be as good as you think you are. I bought the same plane last week. Out of the box I got a .003 shaving. Five minutes on a 1200 grit diamond, 3 minutes on a 5000grit wet stone, a minute stropping and I got a shaving that my micrometer read .001. Had to fiddle with it a bit but I can get it consistenly. I've got old 60 1/2 stanleys that won't do that all the time. The paint job didn't stop the plane from performing at all. This is one I will be carrying in my pocket when woodworking.
@@EricMeyerMaker The Chinese can make excellent tools, but they usually don't send them here. However, Grizzly tools are for the most part made in Taiwan, and they have a good reputation.
I don't know why people think like this. The cnc machines they use are no different then the ones here you pay a premium tool company to clean the tool up and save money when you do it yourself and even sometimes have to give a premium tool some tlc before use.
