Thanks! Got my neighbor’s son to help push my ‘01 up and down the street with no luck😖. This is just the info I needed! Happy New Year from California.
I believe the reason you don't want to have the car running is that the car operates at a much higher Amp level than the bike, so you could risk blowing some fuses or overloading things. The fact that your battery is draining sounds like a parasitic drain. the battery shouldn't drain on its own when its off. Look up how to test for that. Also these bikes are very prone to R/R failure, I had this problem last year, thought it was my battery but it wasn't. It ended up being that the R/R was overheating and not charging the battery correctly. Luckily it wasn't fried yet (theres a test you can do for that as well) and There is a very simple mod on the forums by D'ecosse which will require you to wire the R/R directly to the battery. This saved me over $400 (battery is around $100, R/R is $300)
There are some fantastic ideas within your comments, I have just watched a video around parasitic drain and will look for that as well as the r/r tests. I think I will need to look into this some more and do some complete checks, I'm not ruling the battery out, but am now more open to ideas. Thanks again.
@@ricksimpson2167 not entirely sure, but i think RR is the rectifier. The Generator Provides 3 Phase AC, the rectifiert converts to 12V DC (should be 13.5-14.4V max when bike is running)
Hi, I noticed a lot of people use this method in their videos. Can you tell me why we should ground it to the bike's frame and not negative-to-negative? Also, will it damage the bikes battery or anything else if we don't ground it to the bike's frame?
@@scorpiogangtv8462 There's a risk of a spark when you connect to the -ve terminal on the bike, and therefore a risk of an explosion from hydrogen gas from the battery.
I got very good at push starting my bike when I thought my battery was bad. It turned out to be my "meta" alarm was causing havoc. After being depleted to fully empty no less than 5 times and one of those being left for weeks totally empty, my dynavolt gel battery is back to fully functional after being charged again. With the meta alarm removed there are no more issues with the bike at all. Check with multimeter to see the voltage getting to your battery when it's disconnected from the bike, connected to the bike with nothing on, connected with ignition turned on, while cranking, and while running, and also while running with the throttle cracked open. I don't know the numbers off the top of my head but essentially you don't want to see a drop when it's connected and the bike is off and you don't want to see a big drop as it's cranking and you want to see 13.7 odd volts while the bike is running to be sure it's charging the battery. I would happily recommend a dynavolt gel battery just because of the pure abuse mine took and is still going strong. People were telling me to throw it out but I was able to get it back to life by charging with a laptop charger then slowly moving up to more powerful chargers before a regular trickle charger would accept it and start charging.
Well done on recovering your battery! I also think there are some top tips in your comment to check the battery in various conditions. Thanks for taking the time to write up some useful info and thanks for watching.
Tamsen Cooper thank you for putting all the effort into making these videos over the last couple of days I followed all the ones relating to brakes for hel braided lines and new seals etc, would have been lost without your help
That makes me smile, I love knowing that the videos out there are helping people. I have a list of videos I would love to make, but I am open to suggestions, is there a part of the bike you would like to see in the next video?
My SV650S sounds exactly like yours and is the same colour. Man when I heard that engine at the end I felt the same intimidation as when first hopping onto mine. Sounds mean :) The carbed engine runs so much nicer than the later EFI generations imho.
Yeah, that was kind if horrifying. Hard tubing is probably generally a bad idea. Might be better to recommend clamping to a bolt head. Market, what did you use?
I don't think you're supposed to jump the negative cable attached to the bike battery....You need a ground. Best to attach the negative clamp to the bike frame.....
Thank you! I have tried to push start, in fact, I got a load of my work colleagues to help me once... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8ZNb97Ea87I.html At least it made a good video! I have not had much success with jump starting the bike, I need to find a big hill and practice some more!
Always replace your battery early,,, a weak battery can burn up your stator your voltage regulator and your electric fuel pump,. It's not good for your coils either,,,,. A battery tender just mask the problem sometimes,,,,. After a couple hours of riding the battery can go down,,, wreaking havoc on your electrical system,,,,
Yup, think it might finally be time to swap out the battery... Shame you were not there to record me this time, I could have done with a cameraman! lol!
