You guys are a marvel of persistence ! If you tried to explain to anyone what you've been up to without the video, the whole human aspect of the difficulty would be lost. I hope it works out. Once done and whilst pressing that retrieve button, I think you'll rejoice in those few clunky noise moments. Well done in completing that unenviable task in such a restrictive enclosure 👏👏
Peter The only explanation I have been able to come up with so far is - It's a bit like wallpapering your hallway, through the letterbox, with chopsticks, oh and wearing a blindfold. And fitting the motor under the windlass was even worse - but you'll have to wait for the next video for that. Cheers Paul
As others have mentioned, another informative, well put together video and a great looking progress. The windlass on our rental sailboat in the Caribbean last winter turned out to be broken. I was very much surprised just how much effort was required to raise the anchor by hand. Prior to this experience I hadn't realized how essential this bit is.
Ken This was previously on my 'nice to have list'. But I would say it is now pretty much essential. The older I get the more tempted I am by things like electric winches, self-tacking jibs, and in-mast furling headsails etc. I am just about to finish off the wiring - so we'll soon know if it works or not. Cheers Paul
Looks a cracking job so far, best thing I ever did was fit my manual windlass. I wanted an electric one but just couldn't afford it. You be spoilt rotten with that one you bought, it looks a good one too. 👍👍👍
Thanks Micheal. I only started to do DIY (originally on cars) because I had so many bad experiences with 'professionals' when I was younger - brake failure, throttle sticking open, that sort of thing. Also they were expensive and I was poor. Gradually I started to enjoy it. I think that everyone can do this stuff if done slowly and carefully enough. Fiberglass and boat work was completely new to me less than 4 four years ago. But if you want to see some bad workmanship, wait until I redo the lining in the vee berth. Cheers Paul
@@verynearlyaboutsailing8114 Head linings are a nightmare.. I have redone them in 3 boats (twice myself) including currently in Golden Haze. The worst finish were UK, apparently professionals, who came out to Gibraltar to do all of Paw Paw my Westerly Ocean 43 and did a total bodge.. worse still they used the wrong glue and it all started to fall off 12 months later! The difference between your expert work and my awful DIY capabilities is that you are painstaking and a perfectionist and you apparently take your time and are patient. Your results are a higher level than most professionals. In my professional trade things had to be done very very fast and if it is near enough for jazz.. Really envy your skills and ability and your channel - Just about Sailing - is original and the best in the boating world. fair winds Michael
Great video Paul, nice side note about the scotch bright disk instead of the flapper disk. I see so many DIY videos where people try to use the flapper disk and end up taking off more than they intended too. P.S. Nice job!
Thanks I am normally very happy with the flapper disks - but they are brutal and will go through anything if you lose concentration just for a second. Also, I really couldn't see after about 30 seconds of dust, so a lot of the work on the grinder was done by feel. One day I might finish the whole locker. Cheers, Paul
You are doing an excellent job with the assistance from your apprentice. Too late now but when measuring the angle of dangle from bow roller to the gypsy, you could have just used a chalk line to save dangling the apprentice.😉
Fair point, but it's a long standing tradition to get your apprentice to do those menial tasks that even an inanimate object could perform. It think it improves crew morale or something. Cheers Paul
Slow and steady Paul...prep is key as you stated...I hate hate hate grinding, LOL...anchor locker and windlass fit look great, G10 is the way to go, nice job...stay warm and cheers.
Thanks Randy. We were promised warm weather (OK for epoxy) for a couple of weeks and it never happened. The last bit of epoxy work will have to wait. But at least I can turn the heater on in the boat and get some interior work done - including finishing the grinding. Cheers Paul
Thanks You've obviously seen some of my docking techniques. It's probably going to be too strong. But that's much better than not strong enough. Cheers Paul
Thanks. I have to say that I was (slightly) tempted to have a go myself. I do carry an emergency tooth filler kit in my first-aid box. Luckily it was out of date so I didn't try it. I don't think that would have ended well. Cheers Paul
@@verynearlyaboutsailing8114 dr Ooi capped my wisdom yonks ago, I just wish you could see it brilliant job. That’s why I don’t care for these just off the boat locums that populate our dental shores, nothing better than a Liverpool trained man ,they practice on all those passing matlows
Thanks T.J. Getting the windlass working is probably the single most important modification I am making. It will be so nice to just press a button and the anchor comes up. And, yes, she is a fine looking boat ;) Cheers Paul
@@verynearlyaboutsailing8114 yes Paul Damb FINE looking boat LOL. the windlass is great what i found usefull was fitting a switch in the cockpit to raise or lower the anchor "because my legs are not great" and running back is not a good idea singlehanded
T.J. Yes, I totally agree. I bought the optional remote unit which I will fit in the cockpit and the footswitches for the foredeck. I haven't done the wiring yet, but it should be reasonably straightforward.
That's allot of progress you've made. I certainly hope that all the torturous work we are doing gets repaid many times over by easy future anchoring! Those wide angle lens do make our boats look spacious. My boat is not big either. It's only 27 feet long.
Tom, yes I'm sure it will all be worth it. It's funny how we have each had completely different technical obstacles to overcome based on the designs of our boats and foredecks. And the camera certainly makes a difference - I had assumed that Southern Lady was at least 30 ft. Wiring next :) Cheers Paul
To have no coring in places where stuff gets thru bolted (like the cleats) is actually the correct way of building a boat. The fiberglass needs to be thick enough in those places though.
Thanks, that's interesting. I do have a reasonably good layup diagram for the boat. And there certainly isn't coring everywhere. I'm always pleased when I do need to drill a hole to find out just how thick the layup is. Cheers Paul
I was sanding---grinding up under the bow of my project powerboat similar to what your involved with and never want to let myself in for such a task again.A very dirty dusty job! Not fun! Cheers from Canada!
Darryl, so you completely understand. This is not a job I want to do twice. As I'm sure you know, part of the problem is that after about 20 seconds you can't see anything at all. Pail
You did a perfect job, much better than my part of the job with my anker, anyway it holds so far, go on i like your info very much best regards Reinier, ps merry christmas
Thanks. I think all the effort I am putting in now will be well worth it. The majority of my sailing has been done with either a manual windlass or no windlass at all. I can't wait to be able to just press a button. I look forward to your next 'epicurean' adventure. Cheers, Paul
Thanks very much. In a bizarre way, doing everything much more slowly is actually quite gratifying. I seem to get a much better feeling of accomplishment when I finish a task. Cheers Paul
Thanks. I do try and encourage people not to simply copy me. And do always read the comments that people write as there is always more than one way to solve a problem. Thanks for watching Cheers Paul
Best of luck with it. Of course the problem is that every boat is very different. On some boats you can just dill a few holes, wire it up, and there you are - job finished. Cheers Paul
G10 is amazing stuff, but wow is it hard to work with and so rough on cutting tools. I like to buy structural fiberglass sheets from McMaster Carr here in the USA that is still very strong, but not not so hard to work with as G10. I have purchased it in 1/2" sheets which makes really tough backing plates and also raised plinth sections for deck fittings to keep them, and their through-bolts, up above most of the rain and greenwater washing about on the deck. I would suggest you put a raised plinth under your cleats as well as the windlass. Between that and the plywood backing plate the only way the cleats could possibly fail is to pull the entire deck off of the hull.
Yes, that G10 wrecked my normal cutting tool. The first large hole was more melted through than cut through. I do have some smaller sheets of G10 somewhere that I never used that may be useful for cleats etc. Years ago in a very powerful storm, the small wooden fishing boat next to my slip came loose and swung round and bashed Serenity (the resultant scratches are on a very early video somewhere). I had assumed that the cleat had come off the fishing boat - but when we looked at the damage, a small front section of the deck had been ripped off with the cleat and line still firmly attached and dangling. Cheers Paul
Another issue with cleat mounting is mushy or compressible core material. If that is the case then the bolt can never truly get tight so under a high load the bolts are slopping around loose-ish in their holes a little bit which will bend and work at them. Eventually they will snap at the bending point because of work-hardening or the metal surpassing its yeild point. A good solid core or a spool of solid fiberglass thickened epoxy from a Drill-Fill-Drill procedure keeps the layers from compressing. Sometimes even plywood can be too compressible, especially as it ages and retains moisture. G-10 or regular fiberglass laminate sheet makes a better backer plate than plywood IMHO. Much more work and expense though. Encapsulation if rhe plywood like you did is a good compromise.
Great video, lots of good ideas. What are those rods you use inside to hold the backing plate in place? About to fit a new windlass on Rumpus and it needs a proper backing board. Thanks for the tip about G10 too.
Ralph, the rods are 'adjustable spring tension curtain rods'. I think they are made to hang net curtains on windows. There are loads of different sizes on Amazon. I use them all the time for lots of different things. They are not very strong, so be careful. Did Rumpus have an electric windlass before, or a manual one? I can't remember. Make sure you have some very sharp cutting tools for the G10 -it is very tough. Cheers Paul
Is your foredeck not curved port to starboard? I thought you may have made some form of fillet to take account of that or is the thickened epoxy sufficient? The last time I used my (manual) windlass it was slipping like a good-un - the handle was going round but the gipsy wasn't! Mind you I'd been at the anchorage for about three weeks, it was river mud and the Rocna was well dug in! Anyway, I'm hoping I can get that sorted over the winter or I'll be hauling by hand :-(
Yes, the foredeck is curved, but not very much. It's difficult to see with all the crud and the taped up holes, but there are a couple of parallel raised bits at the edge of the non-slip which gave a good way of making sure the G10 was level. But I did also use quite a bit of thickened epoxy. I just put the milk bottles on to keep the G10 level on those lines. The bit underneath is also quite flat and relied on very thick epoxy, but was easier than I expected to keep it all level. So the two faces should be pretty much level and parallel - I hope. I have definitely had my fill of hauling by hand. I considered a manual windless, but decided that an electric was the one 'luxury' I was willing to pay for. I also think that the capstan will be useful for hauling up the dinghy etc. Cheers Paul
An electric windlass is worth its weight in gold. Be sure to size the wires for minimal voltage drop and it will serve you well. We will anchor every night and weigh anchor every morning for weeks at a time when we are migrating. I watch other folks in the anchorages struggling with levers and slowly cranking in their rodes while I spend a whole 32 seconds to reel in 100+ feet of chain. When we are almost out of sight we can look back to see them still at it as we are on our way..
There might be a Christmas special this year. I haven't quite finished talking to my lawyers after the multiple breaches of 'every reasonable standard' (legal term) in the book. Cheers Paul
