Also see my other video where I replace the film. If you have one of these monitors where the antireflective coating is slightly worn (rather than scratches that have penetrated the film that covers the glass screen, as on my monitor) you can just clean this off. Use some cleaner such as Flash Bathroom cleaner (the one that is good for limescale removal) and a micro fibre cloth. You can be quite vigorous. Use Q-tips / Cotton buds for the corners. Then final clean down with water. I have done this on another monitor and it works well.
Excellent video. Very lucky that the monitor had that removeable film, I imagine a scratched tube would've been very difficult to deal with. I have a similar JVC monitor that doesn't have RGB - I'll have to have a look and see if it takes those cards. It's not even something I'd considered.
You can tint or vinyl your crt if you'd like ... especially a flat screen. I've made a few harsh videos on the topic. I think they look much better tinted.
Hi! I have DT 1710 and DT 1700. The first one works fine, but the second one doesn't want to work with RGB signals. I tried all the settings, the expansion boards were transferred from one to another. Not one console- Neo Geo AES- Sega- Pc Engine Duo Rx- does not show. In the menu A-C-E goes distorted in the combo strip it, and in B-D-F the black screen is out of range of the inscription -the sound is coming.
Hello and thank you so much for your series on this, watched both videos and they are amazing, subscribed! I wondered if you could help me make a decision.... My monitor came with the antireflective coating removed from the film, and I like the brightness just as it is, but I know you removed your film with the antireflective coating. My question - if I were to remove the film, would it now be lighter still? Or did the darkness come from the antireflective coating and not also the film? Thank you for any advice here as I am wondering what to do next and if I need the tint stage.
@@RetroWorkshop thanks very much for getting back to me at this time unless we are both up too late haha! I do have a few chips and a scuff but they are all in the corners, so I think I will live with it after your advice, BUT if I change my mind I have these 2 vids favourited :)
@@RetroWorkshop You could try www nushield com. They sell anti-glare screens for all sorts of makes including JVC. They also have a custom size option if you contact them. I wonder too if the type of solar anti-glare film they retro fit to normal windows would do?
The Digital Orphanage great stuff. Now you’ve mentioned it, I’ve noticed dark film on car windows too. I will order a few different types and give it a go. Thanks for the suggestion.
A bit late finding this but I've been contemplating getting this exact pvm so it was very helpful to see such an indepth video. I'd have been interested to see how it performed on HD content too but appreciate if that's not really what you use it for. I have a Panasonic BT-H1490Y which is essentially a JVC. Great picture but a little small. I was hoping to size up to a JVC BM-H2000 but the sale fell through, last time I use FB marketplace! I'm intrigued by this model due to also supporting 480p upto 1080i and therefore being handy for many more consoles but wonder if the 17" is still a little small. I see there's a 19" but they're seemingly rare and outrageously expensive. I'm waffling now but was interested in your opinion on these models, I love the image quality on my Panasonic/JVC BT-H1490Y and I'm very tempted to get one of these, do you think it's a worthwhile upgrade?
Depends on your use case. If you’ve got room for a bigger model go for it. The JVC has an excellent image quality. I’ve seen broadcast TV HD on it, so real pictures rather than games consoles and it looks great.
Awesome video, well done. I have the same monitor, much superior to any Sony PVMs I have had. I also have some mild scratched on the film but will live with it as I really enjoy the good black levels of this monitor,
The D type connectors on the rear are 9way for remote control and tally. This monitor does support some of the lower PC 30kHz resolutions but you need the RGB card shown in this video and a suitable cable.
Depends on the model. Probably not for a domestic tv. Some high end BVM monitors had em too. Some pc monitors have a coating on the glass which if cleaned or scratched, you can remove the coating with alcohol to leave the normal glass. If the glass itself is scratched nothing you can do.
Im looking at one in canada for $900 Canadian it has the rare svideo \ composite card and rgb card hour meter is at 1000 and it's a 2005 model I already own a pvm 19 inch is it worth getting at that price (mostly using sega gen and snes)
That does seem a lot of money. But it has very low hours. They are really nice monitors but if you have a large PVM you may be satisfied with that. Tough call!
Any way to maybe “coat” or fill the scratch on a crt screen to make just less noticeable? I have on dead center of my unit but don’t trust myself to do any of this haha.
I think you’d make a mess of it particularly as you’d be trying to repair the film if still in place. I have also got a scratched CRT monitor glass- I plan to try polishing it but that’s for another day.
Nice video! Gives me hopes to possibly work on my own JVC. Is there a chance you can tell me the color codes? When I bought my JVC DT-V it’s facing a purple tone so I am worried something is wrong.
I wouldn’t have thought I’d have a grail CRT, but this is definitely it for me. Have you had any luck with getting replacement film to put on it, like the one commenter suggested?
Hi! I was wondering what kind of anti-reflective coating it had. I bought the same JVC-1710CG monitor, but the foil was already removed. I would like to buy a new film for it. But I was wondering if this film is a sort of polarized foil. Have you got any ideas? Nice video btw!
Hi Michiel. I plan to get some privacy film for car windows, as well as nd film for house windows and try that. Still on my to-do list as I’m currently building a garden office. I will video it when I try this out.
@@RetroWorkshop Nice, I ended up buying a 90º polarization filter. I think this is the closed to stock, maybe I will add an layer of anti-reflective spray on top.. but that will be an hassle to add I guess. Do you still have the old film or did you trashed it?
@@FR0MMEL I kept the film but it is all bent up. I still think the main thing is to knock it down with ND filter (grey) but I’d be interested how you got on with your film.
@@RetroWorkshop the film is unfortunately a bit too dark. Do you happen to have a colorimeter? I really would like to know what the difference is in luminance with filter. When performing a luminance test with and without filter I could calculate the difference in percentage. My next step is a piece of 70% car tinting foil. But with exact numbers it will be much easier! 😊
@@FR0MMEL Hi Michiel. You need a light meter of some sort. I tried the waveform monitor built into my video camera, but this is affected by the gamma of the picture, which I can't turn off. I took out my SLR camera which of course has a light meter. The film gives exactly 1 stop reduction in light transmission. This is 50%. The meter is accurate to 1/3 of a stop so it is unlikely to be exactly 50%. I just ordered some 50% transmission window film for cars, and some for the home from a different supplier. I will aim to do a video soon (although nothing happens quickly here as you have seen!).
I thought you may like to see this. An example of an experimental widescreen TV from a 1991 movie called Knight Rider 2000. I believe at the time there were only 3 or 4 demo models made and one was used as a working prop for this movie. i.imgur.com/PfExmNI.png
I think the market for such things is very small. It appears to be a specialist filter, very thick, with at least one additional coating applied. Something similar may already exist that could be cut to size, but I have yet to find such a product.
Is he taking the piss with the helmet LMAO, there is totally no need to wear a helmet at all, i have never seen nor heard of a CRT tube imploding, and even when they are deliberately smashed, which is EXTREMELY difficult to do even with a decent size hammer, the velocity is not enough to worry about, usually they just crack and the glass shatters but stays for the most part in its original shape, there are YT videos of people trying their best to smash a CRT, expecting some sort of explosion, only to be disappointed with a few cracks here and there.
Hello there. I am a BBC trained engineer. We were taught best practise when handling a bare tube was to use a face shield and gloves. This is because people have been injured by broken tubes. The woodcutters helmet and visor I use in this video is a bit over the top, but that is all I have at home. If you want to educate yourself by watching RU-vid videos of people attacking tubes with hammers and rocks, go ahead, knock your self out ;)
@@RetroWorkshop An observation of a few vids on RU-vid doesn't equate to education, hopefully you are aware of that. It wasn't put down in any way, don't take it seriously my dude, i just found it a little funny, is all. We all could use an extra laugh eh, if you had some heavy metal playing in that segment maybe it would have come across better (I'm thinking of Iron Man where Robert Downey Jr is wearing the same helmet lol). Your video I watched prior was actually really interesting and i should thankyou for having probably the only CRT film replacement video on YT that I'm aware of, I have been having the same thought for a good while, and it's really useful to see that the film you used yielded such good results. This is exciting for me because not only is your method perfect for replacing the film, it's also excellent for shallow scratched and scuffed glass CRTs, CRTs with relatively mild burn-in, CRTs with slightly washed out contrast, this is a great way to pretty much render these issues not so much a big deal as they would be otherwise, all for less than a tenner :).
