Ended up watching one of your vids as I was having alignment issues with a JVC HR4100 portable (very early piano-key style machine). Got that up and running, now I'm addicted to watching your VHS repairs on here! I used to tinker with broken VCRs regularly many years ago, forgotten how much fun they could be to work with!
Just wanted to say thanks for this video. I had the same video problem on a JVC and it would fix itself after a few minutes of being powered on so I knew it was a capacitor, but I didn't know about the surface mounted capacitor on the drum! I almost fully replaced all the caps on this JVC and this little hidden surface mount cap was the only problem. Thanks to your videos I've repaired a few units now. Learned a lot, thanks again!
This is a great video. I loved when you showed the proper method for opening those power supplies ;) The way I know that I wasn't doing this repair was the fact that if I had been doing it, the capacitors in those supplies would have been ELNA. Every last one of them. Just had to comment on this :D Back to watching the video.
Enjoyed your video. I did a 2 yr major in electronics in college and went straight into the USAF but never got any practical experience with electrons. Uncle Sam put me in Power Generation. However I loved drafting so I wound up a Instrumentation Design Draftsman, so my electronic training paid off. I'm fooling right now with my own VCR/DVD player and it seems to be a control problem as both the remote and manual buttons on the unit display the same symptoms. Seems to have a mind of its on and will work when it feels like it. I have a ton of old tapes I'd love to keep on playing...Thanks for the vid.
Great video! Learned a lot! I have one that needed the plastic push pins the holds the P2 and P3 in place. Do you know where I can purchase them? Thanks again! I enjoy your videos! Keep them coming!
Hi would you be able to show how to repair a JVC HR-J625 by any chance? I left the vcr for a coupla months idle and now it doesn't seem to want to eject videos out anymore the eject system seems to be very weak if you could that would be excellent cheers
Actually it was Sony, with the Betamax format. they were fully loaded from the beginning. VHS initially had too many sharp bends in the tape, but Mitsubishi changed the location of the ACE head, and capstan / pinch roller by adding the additional guide to pull out more tape, which allowed fully loaded rewind and FF.
i have this show me black image with sound, only see logo of "play" but with sound. if i made forward in play see the rain but after of play come back black image. i've been changed circuit of 50v and 3,3microF but still the same. any suggestion? thanks
in my JVC VCR model HR-J 67MS video input is not working (both composite &RF) audio input is working. playback is normal. when pressing REC key, blank recording started. where is the fault? please suggest.
+Sandip Chattopadhyay The fact that you get no video from the RF or video input, and it will not record but plays tells me that the fault is in the record video circuit. Could be in the comb filter circuit. Unfortunately you will probably need a scope and schematic to trace where you are loosing the signal. Could be a switch (either mechanical or video switch buried in an IC) that switches between tuner and external input, or it could be a failure or either one of the ICs or control circuitry in the record video circuit.
+12voltvids Okk. thanks for your prompt reply. now plz tell me how can I get circuit schematic for this particular model? cause that is not available in India. Can I get the same from anywhere online or offline?
Hi there love your videos they are very helpful! Just wondering with the ELNA caps is it only the brown ones that are crap or are the blue ones bad too as a few of my betamax machines are full of blue ELNA . Thanks!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have a Sylvania VCA4310AT01 made in Japan on Jan 21 1992. (I believe it is same as Panasonic.) I have owned it from the start. For a long time I didn't use it because I had a TV/VCR combo. When I bought a new TV, I realized I needed the VCR again. It still worked, but the picture was snowy. About a year ago I cleaned the heads with isopropyl alcohol and got a big improvement in picture quality. But after about 20 hours of use, it developed a new problem: The tape feeds and ejects perfectly--no mechanical problems. But after the tape threads, I get an image and sound for less than a second, and then it goes off. Happens every time with every tape I try. Any ideas on what's wrong?
Do you get a picture in pause, or on forward and reverse search? If so then the trouble is in the control track circuit, and it could be something as simple as a dirty control track head. (That is the bottom edge of the linear audio head that is located between the drum and capstan / pinch roller) If that head gets dirty the control signals become weak, and the unit sees it as a blank tape and mutes the video signal.
I get a picture in pause and fast forward. (Didn't' check reverse.) But picture has no color. I saw your video on dirty control track head. But cleaning it didn't solve problem.
I absolutely love your videos, and since I have at least a dozen vcrs and dual decks want to learn how to do this for myself. However I have no knowledge, and pretty much zero experience working with electronics. Luckily my dad was an electronic controls engineer and worked for Electrols, Tehctronics, and several other compnies. He is passed now, but I have a bunch of his tools. I just need to learn how to use them. I watched one of your videos for repairing a Magnavox dual deck recorder (model ZV427MG9) that had identical symptoms to one that I have. This video was an invaluable piece of information, but I can't find it now. I thought I saved it... Can you repost videos relating to blikning power inticator followed by powering off (i think you diagnosed it as a bad diode), and the unit powering of after a vhs tape loads and reels?
At least you don't have to worry about hybrids in the power supply; in Hitachi VCRs in the early '90s there was a hybrid circuit in the power supply which supplied the voltages for the VFD display, and these went out often enough that some supply houses took to carrying them in their catalogues.
My father bought a Marantz 4400 quadraphonic receiver when he was stationed in Japan. That thing had Elna capacitors in the power board and amplifiers. One day, he turned it on, and that thing self destructed, and took a pair of nice vintage Pioneers with it. I remember that thing made the most horrible, loud screaming high pitched noise that I have ever heard as a kid. I remember my father pulling the receiver from the cabinet with the power chord, and tossing it on the floor. I guess he feared it would cause a fire, because it was smoking hot.
I have a Toshiba DVR-620KU VCR/DVD Recorder. The DVD side works fine, but when I switch it to VCR, it doesn't output anything. I know it doesn't output anything because my tv detects no signal and turns itself off. I have tried HDMI and composite connections and they both have the same issue. What should I be looking for? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Keep this in mind with DVD / VCR combo units. Most have a componet and possibly an HDMI output that ONLY works for the DVD side. There is no output from the VHS side on componet / HDMI only from the composite / RF output. So you have to hook up both sets of cables. Generally the composite . RF output will output the DVD signal as well as an interlaced signal. The Componey and HDMI will output a progressive signal, and there lies the problem. VHS is an interlaced only format. DVD can do both interlaced and progressive.
MarksMixtapes Every combo DVD/VCR unit I have ever seen operates this way. The component / HDMI outputs only out video from the DVD player. The VCR signal is only on the composite /RF output, but the DVD also works on the composite output. I just connected a magnavox unit today at a customers house and had to run it through RF channel 3 as they had no spare composite input.
12voltvids You're completely right. I can't believe I did that. I am going to leave this up just in case someone else is as big a bonehead as me. I for some reason was thinking component would've worked. Well, it's still not working, but I think watching your videos might help me figure out what the issues are now. (Black and white video with bad sound.) Edit: Wow. Just nod your head if you know what I did. I think I have it figured out. Haha. Back to the lab... Edit2: Just imagine someone opening up a VCR/DVD Combo carefully inspecting all the components (with a flashlight) trying to find the circuit that converts the analog video into composite/HDMI...you'll realize just how silly I feel right now. Hilarious. Son of a... I don't think this helped much either: images.highspeedbackbone.net/itemdetails/T24-9164/T24-9164-call07-jfwd.jpg See how it says DVD/VCR above the inputs? They changed that in later models, but the manual stayed the same as far as I can tell.
Awesome video , I have a JVC BR-s378u / your video " JVC VHS HiFi VCR" is the similar to mine. I did find the plastic gear for the belt was cracked just he pointed out. I clean the heads but still no picture , Is this something you would be interested and trying to work on . Ben
I have a JVC HR-D566U VCR which won't rewind after the tape is stopped. You can hear the motor trying to do something for a few seconds, but nothing happens, and then it stops trying. On the other hand, it rewinds just fine in search mode, i.e., if you press and hold the rewind button while the tape is playing. Fast forward works fine in both search mode and high speed mode. Do you have any idea what the problem might be?
Some of those units had a dual drive system. A gear for play, cue and review, and a seperate rubber tire to drive in full FF and REW. Others used a clutch to change the torque for FF/REW from the play/cue/review mode.
Thanks for the reply. Would you believe that it fixed itself? I took the top off it to try to see what was going on, pressed the rewind button, and it failed, same as it's been doing all along. I moved in for a closer look, pressed rewind again, and it actually worked; slowly at first, like it was struggling, and gradually getting up to full speed. I've tested it a couple dozen times since then, and it's worked every time, and without any struggling after that first time that it worked. There are two other issues with it though, and I think they may be related to each other: 1. The tracking knob doesn't seem to do anything; you can turn it all the way to the left or right and it doesn't affect the picture at all. 2. Sometimes when I play a tape it has staticky lines across the picture, and the picture is even rolling in some cases, like a severe case of bad tracking. If I press stop, and then play again, it's usually back to normal.
Hopefully it stays fixed. Do you have any ideas about the tracking knob not doing anything? I think it might be related to the picture looking like a severe case of bad tracking every other time I press play. If the tracking circuitry that the knob is supposed to control is screwy, maybe sometimes it's electrically in an extreme tracking position that causes a staticky picture, and other times it's electrically in a more normal tracking position. It may even be a cracked solder joint for the tracking pot. Also, if I play a tape immediately after powering the VCR on, there's very prominent wavy interference patterns on the screen. After a few minutes it goes away, and then there are only slight, barely noticeable wavy interference patterns. My guess is a failing filter capacitor in the power supply. I plan to replace all of the electrolytic capacitors in the power supply anyway.
+Alan Wong There will still be a mode encoder switch. Some of the older units it was an optical encoder that counted the position of holes in the main cam gear.Check for circuit glue that has become conductive, or small capacitors in the servo control (sample and hold) circuit.
As the saying goes -{ They don't make them like that any more } One of the better built units too I bet.. Always a great teacher you are Dave...I sure enjoy your teaching vids. We had a saying in 4H - Learn by doing. Don't lose heart in what you do - there is obviously a great audience that learns of where to look in times of trouble shooting and your video's really are a great teaching tool. the heck with you toob - if copy right material shouldn't be accessible then why on earth is it on you tube in the first place, I thought the purpose of you tube is to share with the whole world and is for everyone. Scrooge thinking on there part. phooey on them.
The intro, my channel trailer, and the new inro for road trips was done with the same editing software I use to edit with. Pinnacle Studio 14, by Avid. Pinnacle is now owned by Corel, and it totaly different. I also have Premiere, which is more flexable but Studio is my favorite. It is simple, and has all the codecs for the formats I use built in.
Pretty much all capacitors will fail regardless of brand. I have some blue Elna's in an amplifier and they are all good. They are also very old. I had a Tantalum surface mount capacitor in a new battery discharge tester blow up and I mean BLOW UP! It shot sparks and a fireball across my living room. I wasn't happy at all, it could have caused a fire. That is why we must inspect these things. Even new they can fail. I have had some party poppers as well, but never leaking electrolyte, at least not yet. I have an old JVC super VHS that I need to get out of storage to make sure it still works. I may need to replace some caps in it.
Some of the later ones, units made in the VHS era of Sanyo/Fisher did, but the original ones like the 9100 did not unthread the tape. Most likely reason, they were using the micro designed for the vhs series to cut costs rather than have a seperate run for their beta machines.
Hello there, I have a jvc vcr having some funny behaviour. Sometime when press play it play backward. Is that capacitor beside the drum cause it? I hope you can help.
+Alan Wong Mode switch would be my first thought on this one. The little coupling caps on the motors, when they go bad generally just don't pass the FG or PG signals to the servos, and that results in a speed / phase error, not a direction. If not the mode switch, check for circuit glue that has deteriorated and become conductive. That's the yellow circuit glue used to secure components and wires to PC boards during assembly to keep them out of the way. That glue breaks down and becomes conductive and causes a high resistance short. Need to scrape all that crusty brown crap off the board.
+12voltvids Would you would be interested and trying to work on mine JVC BR-s378u .I checked UPS / about $40. US dollars. .Would you want to continue to communicate on youtube.thanks Ben
Elna a shit caps? That's a new one to me. Elna, Panasonic, Nichicon, Nippon chemi-con, are 100% top of the line in Quality. Elna has made the Silmic and cerafine that very famous in audio tweak. But great video. Have search on the facebook for you to get freind and have a nice tech talk some times
Obviously you have never had to change elna caps that have pissed all over the board. I have. The had many bad ones. Back in the 80s and 90s it was the japanese ones that failed.
@@12voltvids I see, do you know what the cause is if a tape does not thread or does not go in properly. mine when it does the VCR switches off not sure what the issue maybe it is a JVC HR-S9500 SVHS VCR
So. The machine was going to recycling after the video was done. I don't hang onto these old machines and I am not being paid to repair them other than the RU-vid revenue.
ELNA are japanese, but I don't trust them much compared to NCC (Nippon Chemi-Con, sometimes incorrectly referred to as United Chemi-Con ... UCC is a subsidiary of NCC, but they only make large lug mount type capacitors.)
+Benjamin “Ozias” Esposti Elna is actually _okay_ (not great, mind you, but infinitely better than the likes of Chicon or Samwha ... if that's any consolation), but they certainly had their FUBAR moments, such as their ironically-named LongLife capacitors used in power supplies made by Shindengen in many Sony VCRs. (Sony also used power supplies made by Mitsumi and they didn't have as many problems with leaky caps as the Shindengen-made units, and if memory serves me, Mitsumi used Matsushita Caps, a.k.a. Panasonic). Nippon Chemi-con, the brand you trust more than Elna, is another decent one. So are Nichicon, Rubycon, and even Suncon (formerly Sanyo). And, to add an American choice, Vishay Sprague. And, just to show that Taiwan can turn out decent caps every once in a while: Jamicon. But my personal favorite brand is Panasonic. I've almost always had the best luck with caps made by those guys.
My 1610UM has no power supply problems.. But I´m about to buy a similar model which has no power and is like new. Many times power supplies (specially if more than 20 yr old) fail when thet are srored many time. Why?.
Bad chemistry on the electrolytic. They like to be charged, and the chemistry is designed so that when operated at rated working voltage the electrolytic is close to neutral PH. Sit in a discharged state, and some electrolytic becomes slightly alkaline or acidic. This can eat the copper lead, and form a gap that allows the corrosive liquid to leak out.
At 32:56 "it does not look like an alignment problem.... it looks more like switch point error"" 🧐..... lather....... "it is a little capacitor close to the drum ... is known for give trouble" 🧐🧐..... and the man is death on in the diagnostic........ just one word......... 😎EXPERIENCE 😎.....
VHS HIFI is absolutely brilliant for audio, i use mine to record sound only. thing is like in the old days in old electronics brochures, every capacitor is the best! but only time tells the truth on this, theres no real way of knowing at the time of manufacture.
Does yours have proper VU meters, and manual level audio controls? Some did, most were auto level. Auto level is not what I would call audiophile quality. Don't get me wron, VHS and Beta Hifi did sound respectable, but it was also quite noisy. You could hear the system working. Now put a PCM processor on, and record full digital. Now your're talking.
It has led db meters and recording levels with a headphone socket, soon as hq stereo locks in HiFi logo lights up on the fron, and you can tell, it sounds great, its a technics VCR, only problem is i dont have the tools to align the machine up properly
I'm enjoying watching you work. I would enjoy it more if you would stop calling the fluid electrolytic. Electrolytic is a property of it not the fluid itself. Electrolyte is the fluid.
Most machines have little or no value. The high end units, that being the S-VHS, Beta and Hi-8 decks have value. The reason is for someone with tapes recorded in those formats that they want to save. For people that only rented movies, or recorded TV shows you are correct. But for people with family memories on one of these obsolete formats, then a machine has value. I recently sold an old mono betamax unit to a guy that had a library of tapes to transfer. It was going to cost him thousands to have the tapes transfered. I had a few old Beta machines, so he convinced me to sell him one, and we struck a deal, 500.00! There was no way he was going to pay me 20.00 per tape as he has over 250 tapes of his family, and I had an extra machine that I had salvaged so I make money, and he saves some money, and I don't have to sit there for hours babysitting the machine as the tapes transfer to the computer. So it is all about who wants the machine. To most they are worthless, but to someone with a collection of tapes they want to archive they do have value. I just put them up on craigslist, and eventually they all sell. I get 20.00 for working VHS machines on a regular basis.
I have been scan my console include not only my 2001 Panasonic DVD-RV31 the Japanese Made DVD Player, but also my Kenwood KE-294 the Korean Made 7 Band Graphic Equalizer because, I've found the thirteen ELNA Electrolytic Cap from Panasonic DVD-RV31, and I found the six KELNA Electrolytic Cap that I fear that will leak out for it two, and I'm issuing my console to recall due to Electrolytic Capacitor Defect by replacing with either a Pre-Used caps or the fresh new Nichicon Caps that will keep my console safe to prevent a leakage from the caps, and the reason being I unplug the two consoles so that I don't want the ELNA and KELNA caps to spread the Fish Oil all over the Motherboard by cause to damage the terminals and the spare parts, and it will not work properly. =( Luckily, ELNA ans KELNA caps didn't leak over the Motherboard, and no liquid has found and no damage on the terminals and no spare parts has been damage, so I got them safely unplug. =) And so I'll write it down on my list on what type of the caps, and to remove all ELNA and ELNA Electrolytic Cap and recap the Descent Electrolytic Cap. Even for Nichicon caps, they are the excellent quality which should hold much longer than any other brand. =)
+Bluethunderboom ELNA were some of the worst electrolytic caps I have come across.Just remember, the reliability of any electronic device is inversely proportional to the number of electrolytic capacitors it contains.
