Best training video on VCR I have seen so far. Liked this one better without that generic background music. The dogs barking, airplanes, heater turning on just added character. Going to have to watch this one a few times to absorb it all.
So much great information in this video. Thank you so much. The mechanism designers of these devices must have been treated like rock stars in the industry. So complicated.
Superb video of the inside workings of a video player/recorder. Very well presented and explained with plenty of detail. Well worth watching. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Cheers.
Love this video, thank you very much. The mechanism is the same of JVC HR-S6600U (1990) and i'm doing a maintenance on this. Using 2 VCRs i'm using some parts from one to other. solved: Instable video heads (play video ok, stop, play again video with all noise, stop, play again video half ok and half noise...) : Drum but now the gear on capstan and the gear (yellow that you show in 12:15) broken 3 theet on part of connection to blank gear. I will try recovering with a glue. I'm search this gears but i not found. The HR-S6600U have a very impressive quality of sound and video especially with SVHS recorded.
Hi from Greece my friend. Thanks for the very good videos. I do have 2 JVC vcrs one HRD 720 and a HRD 520. I cleaned both mode-switches after watching your previews video on how to remove the switch the easy way. Now something about JVC HRD 520. I gave this vcr to a friend, who stored in a loft. There was water leakage for about 3 months so the vcr was in dirty water for that time. When he gave it back to me it was rusted allover. I didn’t throw it away but i dried to save it. I cleaned it internally, lubricated it and YES it worked. There were problems of course like strange noises from the drum, front panel switches not 100% functional and there was no color in picture, but nonetheless it worked. Also something else about belts. There are some belts like those the jvc vcr of that time had that don’t deteroriate. The do have the originals (I mean the rubber ones, because the plastic with teeth are from different material and are life time)
Στολης Επισκεπτης Yes the nylon toothed belts last a long, long time. Neoprene belts also last a long time. Natural rubber ones oxidize and melt from ozone in the air.
There are a few local electronics suppliers that have limited belts. The last one I needed new was for my Tascam DA40, and I ordered that one directly from Tascam.
Thanks for your videos, I've got an old JVC HR-VP612U that I've been trying to fix for days now. I've watched hours of your videos and got it to the point that it no longer chews up tapes. Now it just loads the tape and either immediately ejects it, or it just half loads it, and won't play the tape. It gets to the point where the pincher is about to come down and then aborts. Funny enough though, the pincher will come down to rewind the tape sometimes. Not sure where to go from here, already cleaned the mode switch.
Fixed it, it turned out to reject the tape because of light getting on the sensor. I tried it in the dark, and it fired right up. Now I just have to fix the door, it's not opening on eject.
Great video I’ve got an old JVC HRS5000EK It won’t load the tape unless you manually push it in it will only eject tapes automatically the mechanism is fine and the motors all work but I’ve noticed it’s showing a tape is loaded when it’s empty The take up guides and rollers are in the load position but don’t move If I rotate the motor they do move back and will return using the motors when it resets Any ideas?
Thanks so much for this video and the other one of this unit. Got an HR-D860U for Christmas and had most of the common problems you mentioned. The bottom retainer on the roller guide was missing, one guide pin missing, the cracked gear on the capstan motor and the bad capacitor on the head drum. I never could have figured out that problem with the bad capacitor on the head without your video. I replaced it and now its working great and has an awesome picture. Only thing wrong now is the remote control for some reason pauses the tape no matter what button you press, and some buttons dont seem to work at all, but the power button works. The red light also seems to flash really fast when you press a button im not sure if thats normal. I took the remote apart and I don't see any obvious problems. Wondering if maybe you could give me some idea of what the problem could be.
Hey 12voltvids I have a Aiwa MX100u and removed the loading mechanism, now when I try to reassemble the mechanism it is not working. It seems like I am aligning my gears up incorrectly and therefore they aren't gripping like they should. Please help, any advice would be appreciated.
Great video mate, thanks for this. I have a JVC HR-J615EA that the tray doesn't lower or load the tape 100%. From what I see in your video at around 8:00 I'll have to take the tray assembly out to fix it? Or is there another/simpler way to adjust or properly align the loading gears? Thanks in advance
I need advice. I'm working on a similiar unit now HR-D930U to try to fix. I know now the original problem was a gumed up forward and reverse main gear drive post and a leaky main power supply cap which I fixed. Also cleaned the mode switch with D100 all stuff Ive learned here from Dave. Now my problem is after reassembly the unit shows a eject status at powerup with no tape in and then shuts off immediately. During the few seconds its on the worm gear is trying to run but doesnt. Ive rechecked the mode switch for notch allignment is good and alignment for the holes in gear next to the worm gear also good. What did I break? The basket works out of the unit but there is a small spring i found loose not sure where it goes somewhere on the left side pretty sure. Not sure if its critical or not. Appreciate any thoughts.
12voltvids, I have a JVC HR-D651M VCR (that uses the same mechanism of HR-D870) which has a follow fault: it's display turns off seconds after press power button. Do you have any idea what might be happening? I have tested the power supply and it's OK, the mechanism is also OK, cause I tested it with another power supply (not the VCR supply), the cables that are connected in mechanism have continuity, are not damaged. Thanks and await the answer and sorry by possible orthographic errors (I'm brazilian and my english level is intermediate).
Loading the alignment reference tape on the first mech test? Brave.LOL I serviced all brands of vcrs 40Hrs./week through the entire vcr hayday. I would have caught some crap for that even if I won the bet like you just did. If I had done a lot of work to a mech I used to start with the two finger loading blocked optics method, then a skeleton cassette then a B movie. Don't take it badly. The video was a great demonstration of what goes on (went on) inside of The Beast.
That is a test tape. That's what it is for. I record my own test tapes. I have a factory alignment tape safely stored somewhere. I make my own alignment tapes on a machine that I have verified as correct with my factory tape, so that tape has little value if it gets chewed. I have a color bar generator built into my broadcast camera so it is easy to make another one. Just plug the old camera into a know good VCR and hit record.
It looked about as good to me as any legit alignment tape I've seen except of course for U-matic. Even the fact that it was on a short 30min? tape. Fooled me good.
cool video! one thing that has always frustrated me fixing electronics are those stupid springs! Have you ever gotten one of those things stuck in your finger? Its hell! It doesn't end there. Some are "screw one up and its game over." I hate those 360 type ones you know the kind that hold a VHS tape flap down? Do you have any videos with helpful tips on getting those back in? With the normal spiral kind I have had bad luck stretching them too far trying to reatach them. I appreciated the one video where you showed us the belt trick using a piece of tape to keep it from going anywhere. Do you have any similar tricks for when it comes to working with springs?
2:05 The loading mechanism on that rear motor is jammed on mine, so that gear on the cassette eject would not turn without removing the belt. I don't know why they did not make these more standardized even among the same manufacturer. My SVHS has one screw in the rear and two (or more?) from the front, not the top, behind the display board which must be removed to gain access. It could be the same as this one, will have to give it a second look. I was working on it and my shop chair spun around when I stood up and hit the green family message led and broke it off. After few choice words said, I realized that is a feature I will never use, so I just removed the broken led. Good thing it is my personal unit and not someone else's I was working on. My daily driver VCR is a JVC HR-XVC26U with DVD player from 2004. Paid $12 for it at a thrift store, the VCR doesn't miss a beat, but the DVD is problematic. Don't care about that anyway because it was a bargain as a VCR only.
hello 12V, Thanks for this video I got my JVC fixed(partly). I fixed the mechanism and clean head drum. But I hope you can advise me on the video show the top 80% and the 20% is snow and the no HIFI sound. Which section should I look at it? Regards Alan
+Alan Wong Sounds like either an alignment problem of the tape exit guide on the drum (the guide pin on the right side may be loose, and causing a mistracking) or the coupling capacitor in the PG circuit could be open. I have a video on that one. There is a smapp electrolytic capacitor mounted on the drum motor stator board that couples the PG pulse from the PG coil on the drum motor boare through to the head switching IC. I did a video on that. It causes snow on the top or bottom half of the picture.
You see next to the VCR heads there is a round metal object how do i attach that back to an JVC HR-S9500 SVHS VCR it has come loose, when i play a tape it plays fine, but not sure where that metal round disc goes thats next to the heads. Please help
That is just a tape stabilizer. Works like a shock absorber to take the vibration of the tape heads as they make contact with the tape. You don't need it. It just clips onto the roller but it is ok to remove it.
Oh that one is easy. Sony 710 Betamax. Bulletproof. Never gives any problem. For VHS, the professional JVC and Panasonic units were dam fine mechanisms. For consumer VHS the Panasonic 1730. For DAT Tascam DA30 and DA40 were reliable mechanisms sans the stupid loading belt. For DV Sony had that market
Hello, Sir! I asked you a question on another of your videos but I think this one has made things more clear: my JVC HR-S9911U has some problem with the clutch: when it fast forwards or rewinds doesn't do the job, makes a screetching sound and turns itself off. The unit is NOS and stayed on a warehouse for over 15 years. Everything else works. Do you think it could be just a matter of lubrication? If I disassemble the mecanist like you did to the point you arrived at the clutch will it misalign the more sensitive parts? Thanks! EDIT: It seems I found out what the problem is: lubricaton on the clutch mechanism and the clutch engaging lever. I'll do the appropriate repair and post the results later. Thanks, 12V!
Did lubricating the clutch work? I have a similar problem on my JVC SR-V101US. It won't fast forward or rewind very well. When you hit the rewind/fast forward button, it makes a terrible screeching sound as it tries to rewind quickly, then it slows down to a slow crawling rewind/fast forward. I'm thinking it's a clutch problem. The tape plays normally.
@@EricKotter I ended up taking it to a repairman that still works with VCRs - har to find even in Brazil and I was lucky because he only works for a few people. He has hundreds of old VCRs and takes parts from them. In my case he had to replace the clutch - he's a perfectionist, though.
Hi - thank you for this informative video; quick question: I have a very well kept Toshiba that just started not working because (it appears that) the mechanism that winds the tape back into the cassette isn't working. It loads fine, but then stops and gets stuck (and I have to untangle it and pull it out) because the tape begins to play but doesn't wind back into the cassette. And suggestions/thoughts on what I can do to fix this? I'm so not mechanical, but watched some videos on how to get it unstuck and now your video, so I have a beginners sense of things. Thanks, in advance, for any help you can provide.
Well the problem will be mechanical. Worn drive belts, or rubber idler tires are the most common faults that cause the tape to not wind into the cassette. Dirty mode switch is another common fault that can cause tape eating.
Thanks for the reply. That doesn't sound like an easy in-home fix - is it something that a repair shop could fix, or am I looking at purchasing a new one in your opinion?
Solid mechanism on older models. The mechanism in new VCRs is delicate and susceptible to damage. Why were these changes made? It is known that every engineer has to "improve" something
Hello sir. Those JVC roller guides are a nightmare. My take up side roller guide gets stuck and doesn't position itself in the "V" stopper. I tried everything, tightening the brass poll and the plastic part, re-greasing, no matter how hard I try it hits that metal stair or whatever it is at the end with it's tip and gets stuck. There's a video on my channel. I would highly appreciate your advice. Should I use the fine file on the tip of the pole stand or the stair beneath the V stopper? Could I damage it beyond repair that way? I saw a written tutorial on the net that suggests this method. The whole pole stand is way too loose and when it comes in contact with the tape it lifts up a little bit and hits the obstacle at the end.
Usually it is the brass base seperaring from the rest of the guide and not allowing it to slide into the v block. I did a video on this years ago. Don't ask me to search it either. You can find it as fast as i can.
Hi 12voltvids, I was wondering if you can help me with a problem with my JVC vcr. I have a JVC SR-MV45 VHS/DVD deck and today I turned it on to transfer some tapes to dvd. I turned it on, inserted a tape and played it, but only static shows on the screen, which is weird because it played just fine a week before. While the tape is playing, the lcd on the vcr shows a "U01" error every 3-5 seconds while the timer is counting. Do you have any idea what might of happened?
Did a clean on the heads and played through a newer tape for a couple minutes, it looks like it have cleared. Tried my client's EP vhs tape, it played a couple minutes and started getting static again. The problem seemed to be my client's vhs tapes, they may have been very dirty. Thank god it was just dirty heads, I thought I had to dump the vcr. I think I shouldn't not push my luck with those tapes before something gets damaged. These JVC decks were the only dvd/vhs combos with time base correction on the VCR side if im not mistaken, and man it's a godsend. Anyway 12voltvids, thanks for your input. I always find your tear-down videos fascinating and educational, even though I'm not a technician myself. RU-vid needs more vids like this!
TheAstro30 hmm, did you hear the one about the guy who threw his vcr out his upper story apartment window because it wouldn't play his DVDs? Ah, nevermind, it's probably over your head
Hi, I am an avid follower of your videos and really appreciate your efforts in repairing and restoring electronics especially VCR's. I have a JVC HR D321EM vcr and was wondering if you can provide aome insights to it?
If it is a belt drive unit check the belts for stretching. 30 years is an old beast. You can send pictures of the mechanism to me if you like. volt@telus.net is my email for technical questions.
hi have you on when i am working on 2 betacam sp 1800 the thing is 2 can't be fixed as one has alot bad and one has something bad as well this 1800 has 18hrs on the head drum i payed £25 uk it's a lotto what you get sometimes i was hope to have one good one bad luck in a good way i have 2 older betacam sp decks that been sitting around for a very long time they work now ok the sy61 cards i had were all bad i swap over a card to test the decks they were ok i left them on for long time jus to see what is going on very likly i come in to betacam sp that has very high hrs and move hrs pcb (with the cell) and head drum to a better deck i have betacam sp decks that are funny about tape sizes i put a brass stop just in side the door so i can only put S betacam sp tape in the deck if not i can hear the gears in side say saying the arms have not moved in to place
I've never worked on betacam decks. I had an sp camera for a few years when I was shooting but sold it probably 20 years ago as i didn't have the playback decks. I just was a shooter and handed the tapes to the production guys at the end of the shoot.
Hello 12voltvids, I was asking for cassette carrier adjustment details for JVC HR-P40A, you had JVC HR FS1 VCR, which has a similar carriage assembly. I could repair my VCR with your video. Thank you very much.
Wonder if you can help. Cleaned the heads, Thank you. At the very bottom of the picture I have what looks like little flickers of light at the very bottom of the screen. It's a JVC dubbing desk and this flicking happens only with VHS playback. Swapped out the LCD TV, made no difference. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Bob
Ok what you are seeing is called the head switching point. On VHS head switching occurs 6 lines before vertical sync, and on Beta it was 7 if memory serves correct. On analog recording, VHS, Beta, 8mm, 3/4" recording is done by 2 heads. Each head records 1 field of information. In a perfect world head switching would be done during vertical interval. On NTSC that is 22.5 lines of black between each field of active picture. During that 22.5 lines is the vertical retrace pulses that signals the TV to completely blank the beam, and fly the beam from the bottom of the screen back to the top. (This is why, for example on the video I did on the shorted video output in addition to the red screen there were a dozen or so diagonal lines, as that was unblanked beam hitting the screen during retrace.) Because analog is less than perfect, a distortion during that all important vertical retrace period is unacceptable. It would cause sync instability, and a jittery or rolling picture. This is because there are slight mechanical differences between each VCR, and there are slight mechanical differences on the same VCR every time you load a tape.So the solution was to have head switching occur before vertical sync. The problem is you can see it, so where do you hide it. They could have put it after vertical sync, in the vertical interval area at the top of the screen, but that is where things like closed captions, and later macrovision scrambling signals are. So the bottom of the frame was chosen, a few lines before vertical sync starts to ensure that distortions caused by head switching don't make it into the sync area. In the days of CRT televisions, the tube was intentionally overscanned, in some cases up to 10% This was done because picture size changes with incoming electrical supply, and in the days before good regulation, when demand for electricity was high, such as when everyone is cooking dinner, the voltage would drop, and this would cause the picture to shrink. The manufactures didn't want TVs coming back for a small picture, so they made it slightly over scanned, so that when it shrunk during times of lower voltage, it would still cover the screen.Enter digital TV. Those flat panels have a fixed pixel count, and the digital electronics count every line, and display every active line on the screen with precision. Unfortunately they also display the head switching point from analog video.
Thanks so much for your reply. I really appreciate it. So it's basically normal, something you have to live with? Will it/can it disappear sometimes depending on the tape?
The head switching point will be visible on all flat panel monitors.Just set your size to slightly larger than the "just scan" mode and it will be hidden.
Ok that sounds like a different problem. Sounds like your exit side guide might be slightly out of adjustment. Auto tracking maximizes signal, but if the guide is slightly off it will be probably low at the exit point that causes noise. By manually tracking you are able to bring the rf up enough at the end of the track, while slightly lowering the rest of the signal. That is why many late model machines by companies like Mitsubishi were junk, because they removed the ability to manually track the tape.
Used to look those ones that would come in locked. Easy fix. I would unlock it, clean it, and charge them for a cleaning. The boss would get mad if I didn't charge more and I would say something like "what if this is a set up, you wouldn't want the local news cameras in your face would you" Because that is exactly the type of stunt they would pull, or stick in a blown fuse and bait the servicer and see if he would pull a fast one.
Yes lots of experience on 710 and 711 mechanism.I have a broken beta (well one that I picked parts off to repair 2 others) that I could tear down to demonstrate,
