Thank you! I LOVE the block system! Easiest way without being a weightlifter: Put bike on center stand, THEN put a piece of wood that shoves beneath the rear tire (I used 2 plywood pieces); then roll the bike forward, and then put it on the blocks EASILY.
remove the right exhaust... 1 hanger bolt and loosen the coupler screw at the header connection and now just on the center stand I can remove the wheel towards me instead of trying to roll it out the back. I'm surprised you dont do that.
The rear "fender" pushes up out of the way (it just slides). It may be a little stuck with crud, but it enables the rear wheel to be rolled out from the bike without raising it up on blocks.
Thanks for the video I just bought my used 2018 1600 Grand America with 900 miles on it. I had an LT in the late 90's and the differential failed after 16,000 miles it was still under warranty so I dodged a bullet there. My question is do you run synthetic 75-90 gear lube? I was thinking about changing mine.
I do use synthetic 75-90. I am currently using Valvoline, I've also used Mobile One. I hope the final drive lasts the life of the bike. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for watching the video. What oil should be purchased from the drive system and how many CCs or liters should be injected? And as you can see in the video, when you join a wheel bolt, do you have to use a torque wrench to fit the bolt with 20 N?
Thank you for these great tuition videos. How do you rate the Mitchelin Pilot Road GT tyres? I take it they are the 4 series. I have a K1600 GTL with the originals that require changed out hence my question. I have the Mitchelin Pilot Road 5's on an old Honda Blackbird and they have been amazing year round boots. All the best and please keep posting. Regards from Scotland.
Hi Digger, thanks for the kind words. Yes, the tires are series 4 and I have no complaints. They are great in the rain and they last longer than the originals. I had one set ot PR4s but the front had wear issues, cupping but only on the left side. That's when I switched to PR4GTs and so far no funny wear. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
@@jamestruxal103 Thank you for getting back to me. I appreciate your posts, easy to follow and understand. Keep it up there are us out there that appreciate your knowledge. 👍
Looks like a lot if work for that task. I do not own this model so I do not presume I know better but, does the maintenance manual (whichever you are following) truly requires you to remove the rear tire to do this? In such case -if it is required, as oppose to a personal choice; owning this bike might be a pain
I don't know..... looked pretty easy to me. Especially since you're not replacing the final oil that often. Now getting under all the plastic at the engine seems like a pain, but I haven't had to service anything on mine yet. It IS fun to ride.
It literally takes me 10 minutes... I take the rear off all the time.. clean it and clean the brakes and side of rear drive... I do it every 6k miles... BMWs are literally the easiest and cheapest bike I've ever maintained.. the r bikes are even easier and cheaper.
I remove the right exhaust... 1 hanger bolt and loosen the coupler screw at the header connection and now just on the center stand I can remove the wheel towards me instead of trying to roll it out the back. I'm surprised you dont do that.
@@checker3694 because it opens up the right side and allows ready access to rear brakes for inspection and replacement.. Sometimes fastest isn't better. But then not everyone safety checks their bikes...
