@@oemworx4147 I got an k20 swap in my eg with the k pro ecu, few days ago I started to have lag problems , when I turn it on after a few minutes it starts to want to turn off. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and I’m a bit lost on this. Plus my fuel pump is new. What can be the problem?
Nice video / install guide. This video just showed up in my feed today. I was checking out a few of your vids. Obviously fuel systems are near and dear to my heart. I would suggest for the diy prople that it's worth the extra money for an aftermarket fuel rail if your going with a return style system. Reason is, the way you have this setup will starve the fuel rail. The regulator is designed to make sure you always have the correct amount of fuel in the injectors but you have it to bleed off fuel before it even gets to the rail. So you have no control over pressure where you need it most. Being mostly stock you probably won't notice an issue but if you start adding power adders you will. Love the content man. Keep doing work.
To much vibration I’ve never liked it on the rail I rather have mine nice and tucked how I have it. With my setup and the amount of fuel I’m using the stock rail will be just fine dyno sheets will show
@@oemworx4147 I'm not saying you have to mount it on the rail like the OEMs have it. I'm just saying you have the fuel go into the rail before it enters the regulator so you maintain fuel pressure across the rail. It's the fatal flaw with all the ktuned style kits that regulate before the rail. Your right that it will work just fine for a stock car. 👍
You explain everything step by step and that’s what I’m actually looking for. Idk why your channel isn’t big yet. It explains better than any other channel. Keep up the great work !!
Hey, I really dig the video and love your instagram profile! I was hoping you could do a parts list for this video. It would really help me out and I'm sure a lot more people!
Do you have the link to the fitting for the return hardline ? I have the 5/16 to -6 adapter and everything else already but trying to do my return line nice nice
I need help with my kswapped ef. Motor is mounted in the trunk and I need to figure out the cheapest route for fuel. Seems like you nails it in this vid tho
Doing the same set up as this. I see you are not using PTFE hose which is safer for e85. Have you ever ran into a problem just using rubber/nylon hose for e85? For a small part of the fuel system, I can’t imagine that it is a big hazard but I have to ask. Great channel and content. Thanks
Hi buddy, I have a similar fuel line setup as you except I used ktuned FPR. My question to you is will your system(gauge) hold the pressure after you shut the engine off or it goes to zero immediately? Mine goes to zero right after I shut the engine off. I wonder if it is normal. Thank you in advanced.
Quick question. Why do some guys run the feed directly to the rail and the return to the regulator only and some guys like yourself run both the feed and return through the regulator
So where did you mount your fuel pump. I seen the pump you used but I didn’t see you install it? Isn’t it supposed to be mounted lower then the tank and as close to it as possible?
In order for you to run those shift cables through, did you get rid of the whole ac assembly inside the dash? Like the heater core and etc? Or some parts?
For my Ek kswap I retained the factory heater core by running the shift cables under the car with a hole cut into the exhaust tunnel basically under the cup holder
hey im looking to do a similar oem fuel rail on k24, is there a regulator on the bottom center of the factory fuel rail? or what is that circular thing that resembles a FPR?
I think it’s a fpr, I’m working on a k20 swap into an Ek hatch w stock k series fuel rail and I’m trying to figure out if it will work with an after market fpr aswell