In this rather long (sorry !) video I show how to change the chain and sprockets on a Kawasaki z1000sx. Thanks for watching. Title Music : Moose - www.bensound.com End Music : Funky Suspense - www.bensound.com
I would never use any grease on the wheel adjusters. A good friend of mine did that and the first time he accelerated onto the motorway it spun the adjusters so slackening his chain, even though the bolts that clamp the adjuster were correctly torqued.
Hi, I just want to say thank you from East Sussex Peacehaven. It was very helpful for me to do this first time during the lockdown. All the Best . Slava
Hi thanks for a great question :) Yes absolutely the chain and sprockets should always be changed as set. It is bad practice to change the chain without sprockets or vice-versa.
Great Maintenance Series on the Z1000sx. Once the notches are in line on the chain adjuster and the chain is set. I put a laser guide over the chain and it sits way left over the outer link, I've yet to find a video tutorial that checks with a chain alignment tool. Is this required if the notches are aligned?? Cheers 🤙
Hi thanks for watching and commenting, I do have a laser tool as well but on this particular bike I knew my marks were pretty accurate. It is widely said on most bikes that they are not and whilst I've seen some with minor discrepancies, I'm surprised to hear yours are that far out, just double check the tool is mounted correctly although I don't know which you have (the one I have you put on the sprocket and it was awkward to make sure it was flat, if the tool is mounted square, I would check you have the spacers on the wheel on the correct side,check your sprocket carrier is mounted fully in and square and nothing obviously bent. Check this first before aligning with the laser, but in theory the laser should be more accurate.
@@TheSussexBiker Thanks for your reply, had to put the bike away and start with fresh eyes and head the following day 🙄. Yeah seems the laser just wasn't sitting right, had to hold the laser mount rigid whilst my trusted helping hand moved the laser up the chain, turned out to be just fine 👍 enough to crack out 169 miles on the bike on Sunday with no issues 😀 #z1000sx
Hi mate, you decided to comply with the factory standards and not change the sprockets ( f16 and r39) Can you please tell me what they are? I mean ( How many ) the original teeths / front sprocket...? rear...? thanks.
Just ordered me a DID 525 ZVMX-G chain with sprockets. Your video will be very helpfull, thx ;) Keep in mind too that there's no speedsensor at the front sprocket starting from plate 17.
Great videos👍🏻 I have a 2010 Z1000 can you do a video on what to check if your h/lights aren’t working. I’ve checked the bulbs/they are working) & the fuse all is fine but there’s no power at the headlight plugs! Sidelight is ok controls on switchgear don’t work high/low beam or “pass” switch but the horn does.....its doing my head in.🙈
I won't be able to make edit and upload a video that quickly. I've had a quick look at the circuit diagram although unsure what market your bike is UK?/ US?. Looking at the diagram you would be best finding the Headlight Circuit Relay (HCR) and testing there. There is a Yellow/Red wire that come from the starter relay which looks to me like it energises the HCR so check the HCR is being supplied with voltage. There is an ignition live which is fed from the 10amp headlight fuse gray wire at the HCR. The black wire at the HCR is the earth/ground. Finally you can check for output on the Blue/Yellow wire this feeds the Headlights but looks like it changes to Red/Yellow?? You can find the manual here www.manualslib.com/products/Kawasaki-Z1000-3537117.html. It may be also worth checking the pass/high beam switch for corrosion and looking for any broken wires.
TheSussexBiker I didn’t expect you to make a video just for me at this very moment 😂 I’m in surrey and the bike is a toy for w/ends and warm weather! it’s a UK spec, I hate electrics! Most of what you said is over my head so I guess it’s a trip to the bike shop. Thanks anyway.👍🏻
Russell Blonski we replaced the relay box and it blew that so he by passed the relay box and wired in a separate relay and it works for 10-15 mins and blows the bulb on the the side that’s permanently on, the high beam and pass button still works!! The mystery still continues.
Great video! This time many thanks are from Poland :) After watching your video, I decided to change chain and sprockets on my Z1000SX, because it was destroyed after 20k km. After reassembling and first test on stand, I started to hear a very strange noise from front sprocket - you can see/hear it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-k6HL85f3XGw.html (especially loud at 6th gear and higher RPMs around 0:55) Could you please do me a favor and help what could be the reason of it? I thought it was a wrong applied chain link, but the noise from sprocket at low RPM appears a few times, while the link goes around.
First check your chain is correctly aligned,by that I mean that the rear sprocket/chain is running true to the front. If it is then it might be worth removing the chain off the front sprocket and checking if the noise is there it be the bearing on the shaft? hard to tell from the video. Good luck
Encountering my first chain and sprockets change on my 2014 1000sx. Thank you for your very detailed video and thorough explanation as you go. Cheers, from an ex-pat in Western Australia.
Yes you are correct unfortunately my tool is a cheapy and would probably break. Grinding it is quite a common method but each to there own. Thanks for the comment and watching.
@TheSussexBiker - 20:26 - why do those "tick" marks only go partway around the eccentric adjuster such that there is no marking to line up when the axle would be at its forwardmost position. I see you have it set at the last tick mark but the axle is NOT in the forwardmost position. I am wondering why this is the case. Can you explain this?
Hi sorry if I'm being dense, I'm not sure what you mean? You can see you have the mark in swing-arm and you line the marks up on the eccentric adjuster on both sides, you can see in the video that moving/rotating the adjuster to the clockwise will slacken and moving it anticlockwise will tighten it, so in the video I moved it fully clockwise so my chain will have the most slack to refit the back wheel (watch the spindle hole and the screwdriver I have put in the hole! imagine thats the spindle :) ) Sorry If i'm not understanding the question.
@TheSussexBiker - Maybe I can re-ask the question is a different form so you better understand. Why don't those "tick" marks go all the way around the eccentric adjuster? For example, suppose someone wanted to raise or lower the rear wheel in addition to adjusting the chain slack. Then another question I have is why are those even needed? When you adjust one side, doesn't the other side move the same amount or can they be rotated independently?
@@davidjames1684 The reason I would suggest is due to the fact you only need a certain amount of travel to adjust the chain slack whilst the chain remains in limits of stretch, i.e once you start hitting the max of tightness then your chain is probably shagged. You are correct in that moving one side or the other will of course move the other side- there is a procedure stipulated by Kawasaki to ensure that both eccentrics are lined up evenly- once they are chain adjustment is simple and quick- slacken pinch bolts / adjust slack as required / tighten pinch bolts - on this design you don't need to undo the main spindle. I can' answer about lowering or raising the wheel-all I can say is obviously thats the way Kawasaki designed it :)
@TheSussexBiker - You STILL haven't adequately answered my original question. I will try to repeat and clarify. Suppose someone needed MAXIMUM chain slack so they would have to move the eccentric adjuster so the rear axle is as far forward as possible. In that position, there is no "tick" mark that will align so why is that the case? This question has nothing to do with chain "stretching". It could just be that someone went from say 17-45 sprockets to 18-50 sprockets and needs a LOT more chain slack to make it work with the existing chain (assuming an almost new chain). I would be curious to know what is the maximum range of total teeth these adjusters can handle. For example, on my Kawasaki ZX-11, I have stock sprocket sizes of 17-45 and my eccentric adjuster is in the top middle position. That is 62 teeth total. I am wondering what the minimum and maximum number of total teeth this adjust can allow withOUT changing chain length. For example, would 18-50 (68 teeth total) work? What about 16-41 (57 teeth total)? The manual should tell you things like this but my guess is it doesn't.
@@davidjames1684 Ah OK, in that case you would have to make your own marks?? As for the maximum range they can handle you would have to experiment I guess. As you can see I'm dealing with a standard setup so if you wanted to modify like most things it would be trial and error. The manual doesn't give info like this as it based on a standard set up as Kawasaki intended. Sorry I can't give you more info.
Hi, I replaced the rear tire. Before removing the wheel I placed a mark where the chain adjusters where and set the adjusters to the same spot before the tire changed. I then took the bike around the block for a test and everything seemed find except when I go through a speed hump. Every time I hit a bump it sounds if the chain has too much slack. I did not changed the chain or sprockets. I then check the Kawasaki Service Manual and it states that chain slack should be done when the bike is on the side kick stand. I'll try to adjust the chain tension that way to see if that makes a difference, but I want to know if you encounter any issues like this? Given that all other variables stay the same is it normal for the chain slack to increase when changing tires? I replace the Bridgestone stock tire with a Metzler Sportec (M5).
Hi Sorry to hear you've a slight issue. Have you physically checked the chain slack - check at various points of a full rotation (sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs). Interested to know whats going on there.
Yeah, I have a question for you. Beautiful video by the way. Here's the question - How the fuck did you get the rear wheel up on that rear wheel spool stand???!!! I have that stand. Harbor Freight low profile model. My problem is the damn Kawasaki factory plastic tail hits the lift handle and I can't get the forks under the spools!!!! I ask because you have the factory fender and not a tail tidy. HELP!!!!!
I know what you mean it's tight my paddock stand handle just fits below the end of the tail tidy but it is close I'm looking at starting to use an abba stand but then I wouldn't be able to do my chain wheel free as the suspension would be loaded up.
TheSussexBiker..... I bought a Pit Bull forward facing stand and spools for the factory slots. Works super easy to lift. Practically falls down with little pressure.
Your tutorials are really good, do you think I’d need to use Loctite on my Daytona 675 front sprocket nut or would the lock washer be enough in you opinion? I can’t see any mention of Loctite in the Haines manual but I want to be sure. Thanks.
@@TheSussexBiker oh sorry :) I made this comment after I decided to remove my front sprocket by putting it in gear and using the impact wrench - it worked and came off, but it then occurred to me that I may have done something stupid and hurt the gears... luv your videos btw - ty!
It anchors the caliper carrier against the swingarm, if it wasn't there the brake caliper would want to spin around the axis of the hub when you apply the rear brake.
Hello there! Please help me with advice. I have a Kawasaki z1000osx. When removing the rear wheel, the axle rusted to the nuts and the effect of unclenching the pendulum feathers occurred. Now, when installing the wheel, you need to tighten it strongly so that it fits into place. Can I use this pendulum? If you don't fully understand the situation, I can make a video! Thank you so much for your advice!
Hi I'm not fully understanding what you are referring to? do you mean the rubber buffers (cush drive) for the sprocket carrier? are they not seating in fully so the sprocket carrier wont fit right in.
@@TheSussexBiker Hello! No I mean that it seems to me that the distance between the feathers (levers) of the rear pendulum has become larger and that the axis has fallen into place you need to tighten the nut strongly. Is this possible? If you give me your email, I'll send you a video. Thank you very much for your help!
@@TheSussexBiker Thank you so much for not leaving my question without attention and for helping Russian bikers! This week I will definitely shoot a video and send it to your email.
Hi, may I know why changing front sprocket affects abs? My abs is not working but I don't think my sprockets has been changed since it is secondhand and the rev is pretty high. 100km @4k rpm
What year is your bike? I know on the later bikes changing the front sprocket can upset the speed sensor and cause problems. You would need to access the sprocket and see how many teeth it has.
@@craftwanderer8802 wouldn't be an issue on your bike. It upsets the abs/tc on later bikes 2015ish on ?? Due to affecting the signal from the speed sensor that reads the front sprocket rotation. On your bike if you have abs problems output the fault codes to see if any are stored you will need a workshop manual.
Sorry I'm not fully understanding what you're asking? Do you mean the the number of links in the chain? I bought a specific chain for this model. If you go on the d.i.d website you can look up the spec and no of links it should be.
Looked like a pretty cheap chain compared to your new one. I always go gold 😀. My chains (and sprockets) tend to last 15,000-20,000 miles. You have to keep an eye on them because of this particular bike's torque.
@TheSussexBiker he means the red high temp lubricant you're using. I want to know the same as ill be doing this to my bike soon. Great guide I'll be using it during my new chain and sprocket install soon.
Hi thanks for comment, It was a brand new chain so had plenty of lube on it, and as I said at the end of the vid do 150 miles and then check adjustment and relube.
