Kawasaki ZX6-R 'Kermit'. I hate fork seals! 

I all ways remove forks completely the night before and hang upside down with the large top cap removed over night over a bucket. Then do complete strip to change the seals, also I tape up the top of the stanchion or cap the tops with the thumbs from old marigold gloves to help protect the seals going over the sharp top edge. For a seal driver get your self some upvc waste drain pipe like under the kitchen sink in various sizes cut to about 4 inches long and cut it open vertically to be able to stretch or shrink around fork stanchion. I also put the new seal on then the old seal and use old seal as a cushion between upvc pipe and new seal, then remove old seal which is easy to do.. Hope this makes your next fork job more pleasurable.

Qhere did you jack the bike up? On what point ? Its a nightmare getting jt off the ground without a winch and overhead beam 😢

You got there in the end mate!! 👍👍👍

I HATE FORK SEALS. Great job on that one Nat.

How much oil did you put in?

Perseverance pays 👏 & yes Del Boys old stuff is excellent ( you can message him via his fb page). Should have kept the front wheel off & compound cut/polished it indoors lol. Nicely worked out...you should have been on Scrapheap challenge 🤣🤣. Ride steady and stay safe bud 🤘

That Kawasaki seems to be in better nick than some of your previous projects so a better starting point. You didn't show the refilling with oil but guess you worked your way through that but as a heads up to anyone using this as a how to I thought I'd add a couple of comments. Most modernish forks now spec an air gap measurement for oil quantity rather than give you number of cc's. You can't measure this with the cartridge assembled. You did take the cap nut off but for those that don't know on reassembly remove the preload adjuster as well so you can slide off the spacer and spring. Leave the lock nut on and wrap a length of wire under the nut so it doesn't disappear into the fork tube. Add the oil and pump the damper rod (the bit with the nut on) to bleed any air out then check and adjust fluid to get the air gap correct then reassemble. Its worth checking the specifics for your bike as there will be variations . Hope that helps someone. Looking forward to seeing the next video Nat.

you make it look so easy LOL, so many porn related comments OMG I like it ooo er mrs

It would be nice if you could get your work in the camera shot....

I enjoy fork seals

It was after the "pros" gave me back my GSXR 1000 twice with a leaky fork seal not remedied that I decide to have a bash at it myself - coincidentally following Del Boy's RU-vid guidance - a landmark for me in that despite the mess and struggle - I did it - and I vowed at that point that I would never pay someone else to touch my bikes again - other than for MOT test and tyres (and tyres only because my biker buddy owns a tyre shop) - and yes - as you know Nat - the thought of working on carbs fills me with dread - so maybe a little bit of a "cop out" in that all my recent bikes have been fuel injected - but hey ho - we all have our nemesis eh? Great work mate - thanks as always for sharing!

Good job mate