KEEP IT A SECRET (2023) 

Absolute truth: c1975 i was heading down to rocks with my 6ft 7 board when an old fisherman came up and asked me, "What sort of a boat would that be? 'twould not be much use for fishing would it?" Both my trips were in early summer and the weather was so dreadful (eg tent torn to shreds in a gale first night) that I nearly abandoned both trips, but hung in there long enough to experience magic. Hat's off to Irish winter surfers.

"I've seen you fellas sliding on the lumps out there" was how it was described to me in 1978 in Easkey

Kevin Naughton & Craig Petersen --- in 1974-5-6, gods to me and so many others. True Explorers. Thanks men, I followed in some of your steps in the analogue era. Empty waves in many countries. Amen.

I renember surfing Easky right 40 years ago with a few cornish surfers. There were empty perfect waves everywhere. Those were the days.

Amazing little video, thanks! can't wait to see it

Surfers always make the coolest Short Film

Wetsuits were not very good in those days, and I imagine hard to get in Ireland, as the market was so small. Good for you!

Nice to see some footage of the old days. As i remember kevin naughton swapped a skateboard with davy govan for the triumph herald hes driving! Some o these people were really pioneering, like alan duke makin a 5ft 4 twin fin called the Wellington boot from the polystyrene lining of a fridge door. Every1 had recognizable styles, davy govan was the surfing policeman as he looked like a policeman directing taffic as he made his way thru sections. Dukie had a v recognizable style too, hands limp on end of his wrist hed throw his hands in the direction he wanted to turn and carve in his athletic artisic ways! My brothers david pierce sadly missed n big oli. In the north west a lovely guy called clive davies from Enniskillen was 1st really gd surfer, hed cycle to rossnowlagh from Enniskillen surf all day without a wet suit then cycle back home again. A big hawain lookin guy with a big heart! Im so lucky to have known these great people, back in the rare ol times. Peace!

Heaven on Earth ❤

She’s called the Emerald Isle for a reason.✊

Ah! The old Triumph Herald at the start brings back memories. A stack of boards on the rack would slow the old girl from a merely stately form if progression to glacial. I believe the advent of decent wetsuits would have been an essential step before surfing became viable in Ireland for longer than 5 minutes at a time.

This looks like a good flick.cant wait to see it

Cool, hope I can get to watch this.

wow i like this very much im in california in HB surf city im half IRISH on my mom side ive been surfing since 1971. you guys have better waves than us. keep it a secret boys ALOHA!!!

Cold in winter though

Any ideas how or when might be available in Australia?

great video

Great piece of story telling. When can we watch it?

Anyone know where I can watch it in the UK?

What's the name of the jig played at minute 0.57?

where can I watch this?

Kevin Naughton and Craig Peterson were the first there as they were in Liberia

I like it - Sammy

...and no sharks.

Can't help but show and tell . Now you blown it out. Next thing you know you will have surf camps . Nice job by making a movie about it. Can't hold a good thing , you'll be sorry.

William Butler Yeats country

Looks like an amazing piece! But the part about the north just isn’t true. What was happening then was because of the lack of civil rights for the Irish and a country that was being torn apart by the British.

I'm a bit worried at how much the whole Bundoran/sligo scene has pushed the red-bull/so-called "pro"/"competitive"/"monetary" side of surfing. Ireland's waves should be for soul-surfing only and respect should be given to the beaches, waves, +local language/culture etc No-one wants our beautiful beaches/waves to become overcommercialised and crowded like many parts of America/Hawaii.