Think you need to cut this down to 5mins! The KWS V20 is useful as the timer stops when there is little or no current drawn - unlike others which just carry on - so you don’t know how long something takes to charge. With many USB testers on the market - if you do another video - tell viewers what the specifications are - ie Min/max voltage/current that can be measured as most videos don’t. Maybe delete this video & do a quicker one as most won’t really be interested in you setting up the Arduino! I’ve the KWS 18 coming soon - but I have the V20 & about 5 other diff types - the reason I’ve dropped in. Oh, also note that these should be ok for QC 2.0, 3.0 & probably 4.0 as their voltage/current capacity is within limits. There’s a newer USB tester which has USB C & Micro USB sockets too.
I got the black kewiesi one, I tried to calibrate this thing and has since messed it up as it just keep giving the wrong readings now, I can't get any reading higher than 0.18A now, It's impossible everything has such a little current right? Could you tell me how to get it back to factory default? secondly, what is the thing called calibration, I followed the instruction that says one should hold the botton then plug in the tester which I did then, next, I have to double-press, to change the arrow from forward to up then press one more time to change the arrow upwards then press once to increase the current that's the +000 display, what exactly is this? I'm required to increase that thing(which is the current) then double press for the arrow to charge to forward and press once one last time before ending the cablbration but, after doing all these it started giving wrong readings. What exactly should I increase the current to when I'm pressing once between those arrow changes process? lord I can't stand electronics.
That’s hilarious! I might have a go at calibrating it for fun - but it shouldn’t ‘really’ need - & I’m not that ‘fussed’ of purely accurate readings.I might end up breaking it - corrupting the code like it sounds you might have done. I’ve resurrected these Chinese things by chance - extra long presses - it’s a fluke sometimes - What I would say is make sure you have a power bank or adapter plug that can supply enough current for whatever you’re charging - make sure the leads you use are able to provide the current you need - & whatever you’re charging - be it a battery - you know it requires more than the 0.18A you mention If the above doesn’t help - buy a new/ improved one! Don’t give up on electronics says the Lord! 🤘
Great video. Thank you for your brilliant presentation which took care of most of the questions on my mind concerning these products in just a session after a long fruitless search. I am glad I bumped on your channel and couldn't help but subscribe right away. I am not a tech guru but just an enthusiast. You gave me great insight. There is another model of Keweisi USB multi tester which is KWS MX -19 I found on AliExpress which is stated to have "Triple Protection" and also referred to as "10 in 1". Please compare and show the advantages of this MX- 19 (if any), over the MX- 18 which you have just analyzed. Thanks. Please respond.
On my previous post, I realized the following lines on my comment crossed: " ...Triple Protection" and also referred to as 10 in 1..." I really don't don't understand why those lines are crossed.
I wish that Keweisi had a website for official information but I can't even find a store with that name, only lots of resellers and they typically advertise multiple models on one page, which is annoying because it's difficult to be confident in the differences. From memory: MX-18 only does QC2 & 3, MX-19 adds other charging protocols & USB3. MX-18L is 6.5A and MX-18 and MX-19 only 5.1A. I don't know how USB2 vs USB3 differs for a meter. Maybe if you want to pass-thru to a USB3 device then you need that one. I don't know if there's any risk of passing a USB3 connection to a hard drive or something. (I think that I would only try on an empty drive.)
@@brianwest2775 Thanks for responding. That is the problem with Chinese manufacturers who don't even bother to leave adequate information on their products. No instructions manuals in many instances and when there are manuals, most are written in Chinese hieroglyphs. Even labels of function buttons on products and screen monitors are in Chinese language even for products meant for foreign countries' use. They don't seem to want to make efforts in correcting those annomalies.
Place them in series so that you know that you're measuring the same current. Sometimes the meters show the power consumed by the meter. Sometimes when current flows in one direction, the current of the meter is included and in the other direction it is not. Did you try switching the Arduinos in case one was consuming more power than the other?
