Congrats on planning this evolution and executing it so well. It is a testament to the quality of your overall work that BB slid into place without issue.😀👍⛵️
Yeah its good to see some progress in your build , hope you can keep a good size group of volunteers to keep motivated , Im 63 and im gladd i never started a build like this, i wouldnt have finished it, Ive watched many builds and come to realize its way too many man hours to complete something like this on your own or just 2 , But hopefully with volunteers you guys can make it happen without getting too overwelmed!
@@SailingSVLynx By the way. I don't know in the US but here in Northern Europe big Bertha was the Krupps made Houwitzer that the Germans used in WWI to litterally obliterate fortresses through Belgium and northern france. First used against the fortress of Liege in my country literally burrying 1000's of soldiers alive sice nobody was acquainted with this kind of firing power. Not offended but thought you might want to know.
@@Timson1976 Well, we didn't know that, so no insult was intended to anyone. However, that's the name we gave her, so the bulkhead shall remain with that name. Sometimes, things are just the name they are given and mean nothing else.
No kidding! You should have seen Big Bertha going in! Video never quite shows the scale of things like when you are there. We couldn't lift her high enough with that Bobcat forks, so we had to tilt back quite a bit to clear the stern, it was a bit concerning at the time, but all went well.
Finally caught up. Really enjoying your videos, its really nice and interesting seeing a ground up build like this, there aren't many of those on youtube.
You can use "Lantor Soric" as a light weight and flexible "core" to thicken up the handle part of the rain catchment system. Then add another layer of glass and it'll be rigid like hell, cheaper than using thickened epoxy, lighter, and faster. Congrats on the bulkheads! Exciting progress!
Yep, lots of fun stuff to go now! (That is, until we get to fairing the inside of the boat, ug... sanding, sanding, and sanding. But, at that point, at least it will be a boat we're sanding!
Maybe you should set up a solar powered bilge pump in each hull with a motorcycle battery to run them, so that you don't need to sweat covering them up so much, especially now that the bulkheads are in and so tall. Congrats on the big step!
The issue is, there are just too many compartments, I'd need to setup about 30 pumps once the sole webs go in. But thanks for the suggestion, keep them coming!
90% of epoxy RU-vidrs apply epoxy with Rollers, when actually using a Plastic Spatula, gives more control and minimizes air bubbles... it makes a better job, less cleaning, less throwaway. In any case, a good brush is better than a roller. A roller has 2 movements, 1 to put the paint, 2 to take it off, and repeat. By the end of the day, a roller is loaded with paint...
We've used spatulas, and still will for certain situations, but at times rollers are easier and faster with less clean up, so we will also continue to use them as well. But thanks for your suggestion.
Congrats on the double canoe. Bad joke courtesy of reddit: Two penguins are canoeing in a desert. One penguin looks at the other and asks "wears your paddle?" and the other responds "yep, sure does".
It is so cool seeing the major bulkheads put in place! Really brings it all together! I'm not sure I understand why you had to raise one of the hulls up to be even with the other since the concrete pads are all the same height (I thought). Is the difference because of the support cradles?
Not sure if I asked this yet. Have you drilled through hull holes yet? This way if it rains most of the water will drain out on its own. Otherwise you have huge bath tubs.
We're not putting any holes in the hulls, except for thru hull fittings, but those are high up, so they would still be bathtubs :) There may be a hole for a transducer, but there are soon to be about 30 compartments when the web for the sole goes in.
The rain catchment system seems so weak 😱, the first time you will walk on the edge of the roof, crack! I have no experience with boat, but I have a lot of experience with breaking things. And IMO, without a foam core, you may waste a lot of layers of fiberglass and resins... And perhaps, it doesn't have to be that deep. That said, seeing you experimenting on samples, I'm sure you will end-up with a good solution. Good luck.
Surely solar power and a water maker cancels out the extra work, weight, time and expense of your rain catchment system, as innovative as it is? I just can’t see the strength that you will require to make it work 😳
Our boat has a very similar rain catchment system. We don't use it for rain catchment, but a friend with the same boat does. The main benefit is a great hand hold all around the cabin top. Way better and better looking than a handrail bolted on all around the cabin top.
Yes, we'll make water, but even water makers aren't free. Solar power will fill our batteries, but we need that for many uses, like propulsion. Then there are the parts that wear out on the water maker the more you use it. Rainwater is, mostly, free (there are some filter costs). Besides, we're also making it the hand hold for walking around the boat, so that saves us some money as well as not having a hand rail sticking up.
A big crane to put it on a flatbed truck, a CHP and wide load escort, special permits from the State of California, and another crane at the ocean to drop S/V Lynx in the water while we hold our breath that the thru hulls don't leak ;)
This may have been asked before but how do you get everything "square" and keep it square throughout the build? What do tools do you to measure against the design? Thank you
It all has to do with the beginning. We made sure the cement pads were level, then the forms on top. After that, the waterline was established based on those forms transferred to the canoes. After the canoes were flipped, that waterline was used to level each canoe. Then we had to make sure the two canoes were the same height with a laser level. Finally, we adjusted the angle of the hulls by lowering in the two main bulkheads. The laser we used is self-leveling, so we know everything is right. From here on we can use any level to check something we're adding since the whole boat is level.
Oh and the plans are in metric, so we use a metric tape measure when placing something. Initial measurements for bulkheads were taken from the stern. The bow is too custom shaped. From here on measurements can be taken from any bulkhead since they are correct. We have several kinds of levels: laser, digital, and old fashioned bubble.
