KK2.0 Multi-rotor LCD Flight Control Board with PCB Micro-Quad Vol.27 Test flight 

instaBlaster...

Yes and if you enable "link roll pitch" then setting one sets the other. The only reason I can think of not using it is if you have a non-symmetrical motor layout which your spider likely has, but if using "X" or "+" symmetrically than I'd use the link roll pitch setting, but I think you'll need to do both separately due to not being symmetrical... which gets me why they designed some quads that way due to pitch and rolls needing to work together "in the corners". Just be sure to set your yaw PI to zero as it won't be able to yaw and will fight itself affecting other motor response. At 2:16 he shows P yaw set at 150 gain and 20 limit and I at 50P/10G and I'm wondering if he was running that on the string... not supposed to and @ 3:31 he shows another TX in the video so this was videoed over time and I doubt it. But wonder about the reasoning of the TX settings he shows on the different TX. Without explaining what's going on this video is not as good as it could have been. You should use stick scaling from what some of the best say but he shows the correct linier throttle curve to start out with on the 2nd TX in the vid. Looks like he has a nice video projector... I'd be a little concerned about hitting that screen as if it's a good one... some real bucks:-0. Good luck and be sure to read Steveis KK2.1.5 manual and all the appendixes. IMO keeping it simple is the key to a good flying quad... see a lot of people tying stuff that's not simple and can't see any advantages, just makes getting the setup harder IMO..

Thank you for your comment. I do not know !

You are providing some confusing information. Of course , no matter which motor you plug into M1, it will run that motor. The ESC's arent programmed with their own position from the factory!! But, only M1 should be powered from your ESC, providing it has BEC. On the other 3 ESC's, you want to lift the tiny plastic tab very CAREFULLY which holds in the signal pin and pull the pin out, and use a sleeve for a single pin, insert it, then install the single pin with the signal wire onto the KK on the M2,3,and 4 "S" pins (the inside most row). The center is B+, and the outside is B-, neither of which you need to use on any of the other outputs to the ESC's.

Did u find a solution to this problem??? , M dealing with the same situation here. :(

+Nick Augusto what is your issue?