continuing the series, this is a big one, and its some general thoughts about steel hardness as it relates to knife edges and blades. caltoncutlery.com
For anyone wondering, Joe's 1095 heat treat is fantastic and it honestly surprises me every time I use the knife (the Heavy Necker is also an awesome pocket fixed blade.)
Exactly my friend. The hardness and blade geometry needs to be suitable for the material being cut. What's suitable for food in the kitchen is different from cutting cardboard or ropes. I enjoy your video a lot
Makes sense, some knife companies do stay to lower hardness to keep the blades from chipping/breaking, your thoughts reminded me of the old Clint Eastwood movie warning: "a man's gotta know his limitations" changing it a little would be a man's gotta know his "Steel" limitations, I've run into a few lemons from notable production companies using the latest and greatest and they missed the mark, but some are just flukes in production, the 'Friday' afternoon whistle blowing everyone leaving scenario and a batch might miss a step. Keep up the good work Joe, the neck knife that I have from you cuts excellent btw !
Thanks Joe. When I was at school I made a long shank screwdriver out of mild steel. I was thinking of heating and quenching the tip, but the teacher said I could, but the tip would be brittle whereas if I heated the tip and allowed it to cool down naturally the tip would last longer.
that is interesting. i have not had very good luck with heat treats on mild steel. about the only 2 ways I know of to somewhat harden it is to cold work it, like to forge the tip of the screwdriver cold to work harden it slightly, or to case harden it by using case hardening powder and a torch or forge. how did your screwdriver work out?
