DCA I can say I never thought that you guys did any kind of adjustments to the knives you show. I definitely find you to be one of the more honest and knowledgeable people in the RU-vid vid biz. So thank you
You did not mention stacked leather washer handles popular on hunting and some military fixed blades. I have a K-Bar skinner style, the first outdoor knife I bought for myself. Still in good shape after 50 years, although today I'd carry a Morakniv for the better blade shape. Then there's antler or bone. I have an older tackle box fixed blade with a jigged antler and leather washer handle, inherited from my dad. Also there are naked blades that are wrapped in paracord that can be removed for use in in emergency situations.
Out of personal preference. I cant seem to put any knife down with micarda scales. Micarda is also great for outdoor knives. G10 is my second choice. But theres just something with with micarda in the hands that makes it figity.
Natural bone or stag handles and wood are classic to me and I prefer them for outdoors hunting fishing camping etc. synthetic materials I like on edc knives.
idk how he forgot stacked leather considering kabars use it which is probably the most recognizable knife in the world besides a swiss army or bowie knife
I am using a copper scales knife (the civivi dogma,, COPPER, , not brass) and I really feel that copper is a great scale material. My feeling is that the copper is reactive (tarnishing as you hold it) and this creates a different kind of grip than most metals. It's as though gripping a fresh wood every time you pick it up. I realize some people might find the sensation uncomfortable, because indeed it is a chemical reaction (if my senses don't defy me) ,, but I personally really like it.
@@Gee_DubThat’s my only problem with copper - it makes my hands smell like pennies. I have a brass pen that I love, but anything larger just puts off too much of a stank for my taste. Not everyone has that problem though.
The jello knife and A lot of other WILD knifes made out of chocolate, etc are all made by kiwami Japan. They're also hardened and sharpened and cut paper it's pretty wild.
I do not like metal knife scales for many reasons but one that stands out is they get COLD in the winter and can actually freeze to your hand like putting your tongue on a flag pole......................lol
Raptors were carried by alot of the staff when I worked ER. As well as by most of the medics taking pts in and out. Great tool. Boss actually used his glass breaker to save an older man who drove himself to the ER, but passed out before he could get out. Only problem is they grow legs of you leave them somewhere.
DCA - thanks for recommending the Amicus, it's probably got the best ergos of any knife in my collection. Great action, comfortable handle, no thumstud so can do a pinch grip, just great user interface all round. If it came in 14C28N it would be my favourite folder in my collection! Please get Kizer to do a version with this steel as an exclusive! I know it's not that simple but hey it's worth a shot. Thanks!
DCA: I saw a documentary on old cast iron cookware recently and was blown away how an item can be used and abused for over a century and still function as good as the day it rolled off the assembly line. It got me thinking: what type of knife in your expertise will be around 100+ years from now, just as good as ever? I'm talking exclusively folders, and with a lineage of owners who aren't knife people so no maintenance outside of sharpening once in a while. Cosmetic damage I'm not too concerned about as far as paint/coating goes, although I am curious as to how g10, micarta, bearings, washers, springs, etc., may handle the years. Will some knives considered premium now be seen as throwaway at a certain point by the normies?
Hey DCA and co. Knife n00b here. Can you show how different blade shapes cut the same medium? All RU-vid vids show folks cutting paper, but they never show how a wharnie cuts different from a clip point, etc. Get DCA some good stuff to cut on camera and go nuts with the explanation. Thanks!
this is not necessarily on topic. and i am afairly new knife collector, but i have discovered that holding my knife like a pencil, or actually holding the blade over the topthumb on one side index on the other, both work well for opening packages or other light duty job. i can feel a lot for comfortable when i break the rule of not cutting toward myself when i hold a knife in these ways. there is the danger of your fingers getting cut, especially if you dangle your middle finger, but if i go steady, there is usually no problem. i have not seen any videos on this. comments anyone?
In reference to the woods…wood handles are good for extreme cold, think of the Saami People of Scandinavia. Also..the woods such as Damond wood, you said laminated…lets call it what it is…plywood…lol.
The Slip-N-Snip looks like something I’ve seen in my grandmother’s crochet basket. They must have been good scissors , she never let me play with them.
Doggone right, a happy knife is a sharp knife that holds an edge reasonably well. Some steels are not known for holding an edge well, but the funny thing about some of them is poor heat treat. AUS8 for instance can hold an edge quite well if they don't cheap out by only hardening it to HRC 57.
Hi KC folks, love what you do! Context then question: I really like the look of the Cold Steel SRK, but I’ve read that SK-5 steel is brittle when cold. Is this a thing? I also don’t know whether “cold” refers to standard, winter temps or extreme, liquid nitrogen temps. Do other steels have this problem? Thanks!
Hey DCA and KC family - I purchased my father an Anza knife last year for Christmas; something novel about it was their repurposing of metal files for their blades. What other novel repurposed (blade, handle material, etc) knives are on the market that you know of? Custom, semi-custom, production? - Mitch
I’m very interested in getting a spiderco folding knife as a everyday carry but don’t know much about them as a beginner collector, and I’m really interested to hear your thoughts. However I do live in the UK, with strict knife laws
Question I keep asking myself is do I need to carry so much for my EDC. I work as a janitor in a school and I have to be careful on what I EDC so there is certain criteria for it. Some of them are is it concealed enough the kids can't get it off me, is it noticable enough if it is missing, and do I have enough on me to fix random things. So I boiled it down to a Free P4, a small under 2" blade with a deep carry clip, a flashlight, the olight pen with lazer pointer, and sometimes a small bit driver and a couple extra bits in the 5th pocket. Wondering if there is a way to compact it more and still get the functionality I have while making sure it is safty oriented and durable. Some tasks are cutting rope for school events, packaging for a bunch of items from plastic containers to cardboard, fixing sliding locks on stall doors, door hinges, turning off out of service toilets and urinals, and other small menial tasks that require a range of specific tools but all fit within minimal maintenance of a building. (Editing this to say, I also use the tools to fix the equipment given to use to clean the building and as I go I fix small things to get it done faster. Since asking for any to be done takes weeks.)
don't tell my wife but over the last 2 months i've bought 3 knives off this table selection. just my personal experience, get a buck 110. the finger grooved version is good too. it changed my perspective on weight, blade steel, function and yes, handle material and the use of classic knives in general day scenarios. its a knife i can cut down saplings in my garden with, use as a steak knife, or break boxes down with. its good.
Howdy folks! Have you ever considered sharing what w day at the office is like for u two? Outside of filming what is it y’all do on atypical day? How long does it take to get ready for a show filming? Thanks
Hi David, David here. I love edcing my Lt Wright Next Gen but sometimes I need a folder. What should I choose? I value the droppoint/spearpoint (you tell me) and the neutral handle. I have a Bugout but it is a bit too thin. I like knives with good value. Thanks in advance! / David
I have a 35 year old opinel that I’ve carried so long that the finish is gone off the scales. I love it . I’m looking for the fillet knife version right now.
Hey DCA and Thomas! I have a Morakniv Pro Chisel in my tool bag that serves as a knife and a pry bar that I can can brutally abuse when I am removing weather stripping on door or prying out a plastic valve body from an old brass faucet. The thing is I would really like a knife that I can beat in a similar manner as the Pro Chisel, but not have the fear that I am going to break the handle. So what full tang, fixed blade knife would work as (litterally) a beater while having an edge that will be as resistant to chipping as the Morakniv that I have. I don't necessarily need a stainless steel for this knife. Any suggestions as to what would make good knife that is about the size of the Pro Chisel that is reasonably priced would be great. Thanks and keep up the good work on these videos.
Hey DCA, Thomas, Seth, et al, I just got the Condor Patagon and really like it, but I wish they made a larger version (akin to the Hudson Bay/Mini Hudson Bay), an eightish inch knife for heavier tasks. Is there a knife you can think of that matches the aesthetics of the Patagon, the classic Facon feel, around $100. And maybe next time you talk to the Condor folk, give ‘em a nudge for me in making a Patagon Plus, and give Joe Flowers a big sloppy kiss.
DCA, I need a recommendation for a bladeless multitool (for travel purposes). Had a Leatherman Style PS but the heat treat on the scissor springs on those is…less than ideal…and after two warranty repairs on broken springs I’ve given up on those. Thanks for all the great content!
That's funny because i was just thinking the same thing just today. I bought a bugout and the pivot was so tight that the blade stayed put when trying trying the cross bar, and the thumb studs i could only get the blade halfway open. Actually cut myself the first time i used the thumb studs.
Hi DCA & Thomas.! Quite a lot of Weeds in this vid but still very informative. Nevertheless the title say Knife Handle material but reckon you miss out on mentioning (the other half) conformation of the Hand. Either or neither left or right handed, a male or female flanges, hands of an office or construction worker. It could also be Seth's or Thomas's hands especially but never the least that "larger than average hand" does have some sort of contribution to a grip or purchase on the handle no matter what material. Wow talk about weeds...! Anyway love the show, Cheers from Australia.
4:00 "rubber" handles. I was quite surprised that you didn't mention one of the best attributes of these types of handles, viz shock absorption! I have a CS Trail Master, and the difference between that and the wood handles I've typically made in the past (I love the sheer beauty of the polished wood!) is truly amazing. Even when chopping seasoned oak there is very little shock transmitting through the handle to the hand. I find this a very important attribute, especially for extended use applications. 8:20 I've never had a knife with a micarta handle, but judging from what I view on RU-vid it seems that micarta is heavy. Is this an accurate assessment, relative to say rubber handles?
Hey DCA/Thomas/Seth, with the holidays coming up, I wanted to get my brother-in-law a new camping kitchen set (knives, utensils, silverware, etc); what would be your ultimate camping kitchen knife/utensil set??
Hey DCA and Thomas (my favorite man behind the camera). Question about the sound of opening a folder. I have a few button locks and love the fidget factor of them. However, my Elementum II seems to have a higher pitched and almost tinging sound when opened. Is that caused by the blade material, shape, stop pin, liner, or all of the above? The knife is solid, but was wondering if anything can be done to make it sound more like it feels.
DCA, speaking of handles...PLEASE do another run of the Ka-Bar Becker BK-40 in D2!!! I'm a really big guy, and I don't play well with your typical (approx.) 4" handles that come on your run of the mill (approx.) 3" blade folders. So, I've been looking at (approx.) 3.5" blade folders in order to get an (approx.) 5" handle. But the handle being 'hand filling' is also important, and your repeated praise of the BK-40's ergos has convinced me, but I simply won't buy it in Aus8. Please help!!!
DCA I am relative new to knife world. Beginner enthusiast if you will. I love a pocket sword. Most recently I am carrying my Ad15 almost every day. But I still always say my Spyderco Delica with vg 10 steel is my best cutter, period. Can you expound on Vg10 for us?
Hey DCA I was wondering if you could recommend a good axe/hatchet for camping and backpacking. Something not really large but sturdy enough to tackle bigger chopping tasks
None. A silky saw, a big knife (like a CS Trail Master) and wedges are all you need. Axe is too heavy and a hatchet is too light, and a big knife does all it can do.
Hey DCA love the show! Question for you a little bit of a challenge for you I assume but what are your favorite American made knives as in fixed, folding, and Budget? And what is your favorite imported of the same categories? I don't mean just companies but their individual products like Buck has imported products, do they make the list for you?
I know I'm resurrecting an old discussion, but I had a question about your simple carbon steels. You said that the 10 series (1095, 1084 et. al) are just iron and carbon, but if we're going to be picky, aren't even the basic 10 series steels alloys, too? In addition to iron and carbon, all of the steels have, at the very least, a little manganese, don't they? Phosphorus and sulfur are also present, but even basic 1075 has base iron, 0.7-0.8% carbon, 0.4-0.7% manganese, 0.04% maximum phosphorus, and 0.05% maximum sulfur. That's 5 elements, making even the most basic carbon steel an alloy.
Question... I am looking for an edc fixed blade/outdoor belt knife... Not to big, but big enough to be ergonomic in hand and higher vertical carry option is a big plus(so my shirt can cover most of it) esse 3 is what comes to mind first, perhaps something simmilar?
Q: What folding knife would you get for someone as a gift if you knew _you_ would be the one who will end up maintaining it, e.g. for your mom? I'd like to stay under $100(ish), and non-spring-assisted and finger-safe closure would be plusses.
GM, DCA - Question for you - I am an avid salt water fisherman in need of a knife for carrying on my wading belt. I just destroyed my Mora, but suspect I had the wrong blade steel. Looking to stay with a fixed blade and like the idea of it having its own sheath. Any recs??
tinker or a huntsman, or an alox bantam/cadet depends on if you want like ten thousand tools or if you just want something small and slim that also cuts. the pioneer X and tinker deluxe are also solid.
I like the Waiter. It is super thin. It has a can opener/bottle open combo, the blade, cork screw, tweezers, and toothpick. I fill toothpick and corkscrew with the Fire Ants and Fire Flies allowing one to make fires. The Waiter is also very inexpensive. I have a bunch of SAKs and can never decide which is my favorite, but it’s hard to beat the Waiter for an easy everyday carry and it compliments other knives and multi tools.
Kiwami japan is the maker who makes knives out of jello and chocolate and stuff. Blades and handles. Weird, interesting, sometimes a little creepy. I highly recommend.
Hey DCA what about Ritchlite handle materials I have a White River knives Ursus 45 with ritchlite material . Besides the beauty of ritchlite how does it compare in strength and use to the other handle materials mentioned in this video?.
It is essentially paper Micarta. Pretty stable and can take a really nice matte finish that feels absolutely wonderful in the hand, as well as beautiful high polishes. -DCA
Do you find ultem scales not live up to its hype in term of durability? I personally had a set of ultem scales cracked at the screw holes and heard other people also have similar experiences.
Why don't the knife companies never use needle bearings instead of ball bearings? Needle bearings can distribute force more evenly because the contact points of the "needles" (drum-shaped) are bigger. Such pivots would be much sturdier, similar to washers.
You forgot leather and bone (boy does that sound like a new Netflix show based on a series of teen novels set in a fantastic land where they probably have beautiful but impractical blades).
DCA! Can you expand this discussion to cover common handle material seen on traditional slip joints. Case knives confuse me with all their different types of “stag" and "bone." Is their barn wood really wood? Thanks!
I’ve been getting into slip joints lately. I keep hearing people rate the pull on a 1-10 scale. What do these ratings correlate to? Is there an agreed upon scale or is it just subjective?
Hi there I live in the UK so slipjoints are one of the non locking knives that I can use legally. The pull would be 5 is like an all accessible Victorinox Swiss army knife. Everyone has one right so 5 is like the action on a Sak. Any stronger than that you increase the number. I would say 9 or 10 is a nail breaker. Hope that helps.
I know knife centre doesn't sell them, but if you want to EDC scissors, go with the Klein ones. They're for network cable installers, great quality, come with a belt sheath
Do you have any recommendations for blunt nosed knives? I’d like to have some non pointy options for kids, so they can practice with a knife with less risk of poking themselves
mora has a dulled tip knife, victorinox sells a blunt tip model called “my first victorinox” or something i think, and if you want EXTRA safety for kids they sell the junior 09 which is basically a blunt tipped lockblade swiss army knife
Im not a huge fan od the light weight 3 inch trend in the knife world right now. What are some of the best new knives in the 3.75 to 4 inch range at around the $100 to $200 price point.
This episode answered a question I didn't know know I had, so thanks for that. So how about washes? I see metal and rubber washes used on both cheap and expensive knives, is there a functional difference?
You forgot to do leather handles. And I have to disagree. There is something that wooden handles do better than any other material, they wear better. As do leather stacked handles such as you would find on Estwing tools, or the odd falkniven knife.
As far as the tuning conspiracy; fact check result bogus. Ever look at DCA's (or Seth's) hands? These guys deploy, fidget and flick probably more than knife makers!
