That's exactly what it means. That is the bias voltage. The ECM sends a small voltage (each manufacturer uses a different voltage) to the KS and expects it dropped down. This ECM analysis is used to generate a faulty code.
On most systems when you disconnect a sensor, the ECM substitutes values and goes into limp-in-mode. It is almost impossible to know how the ECM is programmed and how it will react to a disconnect. On most systems a KS disconnect will cause no issues, but hard to know on your vehicle. One thing you could do is erase codes and run the car. If momentarily acceleration is back , then try replacing the KS. With codes erased the ECM will revert to normal operation just for a while. THanks for posting
@UNRE4D48LE That's right, some Impresas do have that issue. The best way to tell if know sensor input has a severe impact on timing is to disconnect it and drive the car. If it feels very sluggish then the ECM programming places a lot of emphasis on knock. Thanks for posting.
Now the question we’ve all been asking...should it be replaced with a $150-300 Factory part, a $50-100 name brand aftermarket part or a $20 no-name part?
On critical electronic parts such as this, it is highly recommended to spend more for the original part. Aftermarket sensors are known to fail much sooner or not produce the required measurements for the ECU. You'll wind up paying for labor twice.
It is possible and the only reason for that is so that each KS serves each bank of cylinders. I will research this and post more on the matter. Thanks for posting.
@arubin22 Knock sensor is always screwed to the engine block. The knock is a microphone tuned to the engine ping frequency. Do a google on it. It may be in the V valley on a V-6 engine or at the side of the engine block on a 4 bangger...
@FernterPix Hello, well in your case the answer is no. On Nissans the knock sensor has an effect on timing, but not enough to cause hesitation. On other makes it is possible. It sounds like an ignition problem. Do a power brake test. Set parking brake on, step on brakes hard, set trans in drive and goose the accel pedal for up to 5 seconds (not longer). If hesitation is detected then suspect ignition problem. Post abck with more...
@slimshadie1290 No, to this day there're no engine management systems that'll make the engine cut out due to a know sensor. There are cases where a shorted knock sensor wire can make the engine stall, usually on older vehicles. Check your knock sensor wire for corrosion or bare damage. Good luck.
I got a check engine light in my 1997 Subaru Impreza. It's a knock sensor code. There is a HUGE difference in acceleration when the check engine light (for the knock sensor) is on than when it's off.
@tainle Hello, very nice description, well done. OK, the knock sensor will not cause pinging and won't give issues other than the check-eng light on. From your description you should look into the EGR valve. Look to either EGR valve clogged, EGR vacuum hoses, or EGR solenoid. This description fits perfectly with an EGR system failure. Good luck and keep posting...
A LOAD has no meaning in testing the Knock sensor. You're right about that statement, but knock sensors work in the milli or micro Amp range. There's almost no current there. It's a pure electronic circuit (microphone) driving the detection circuit. Makes sense?
Nice car...Unlikely that the KS is the cause. Remember, the ECM doesn't diagnose the car, the tech does. Discard that repair shop right away. From your description, it does sound like the converter may be semi clogged. Issues with the turbo ruptured piping. MAF sensor failing at higher speeds, although less likely. Finally, lake of fuel VOLUME. You may have fuel press, but not volume for whatever reason. Check along these issues and post back with more.
@FernterPix OK, first I can tell you that Nissan Knock sensors are always faulty after 50K miles or so. No biggie, that's not your issue. You have a misfire, either ignition, injector or valve problems (not likely). The knock on your vehicle is in the cylinder valley, under the intake. It is hard to get to and expensive to replace. Before you replace the knock get a proper diagnosis. Look in the areas mentioned. Post back when you get it fixed or done please, just to help others. THanks...
One strand of wire on an electronic circuit like the Knock sensor is a complete circuit. So long as the strand stays connected, there will be no knock sensor code and the audio frequency of the knock sensor will be detected by the ECM. The knock sensor, like other electronic (not electrical) low load circuits including CAM and CRK, fuel pressure sensors, etc can be checked using an Ohm meter. Loaded circuits like motors, solenoids, lights, injectors and actuators need a load to be tested.
Easy, go to the Knock sensor wire connector, disconnect and ground it to chassis. Then using Ohm or Continuity tester (beep) test ECM knock sensor end to chassis as well. You can then do an Ohm test and see only a few milli Ohms. Makes sense?
CONTINUED: Second code P0600 is AT-Transmission line between ECM and TCM not having proper voltage. This is an older style point to point communication. Your first step should be to disconnect ECM and TCM connector, spray some WD40 or any connector spray on to the connector and reconnect both of these. Nissans do suffer from bad contact between connectors. If issue not solved then TCM might be at fault. Doubtful if TCM still available. Post back afterwards...
On some cars, if knock is detected, the ECU/ECM will put the car into a limp-home mode to stop you revving it, creating detonation, and potentially causing major damage to one or more cylinders/pistons.
It is unlikely that the KS is causing this issue. Hesitation occurring when when the engine is hot probably points out to an ignition problem or a valve issue. This is of course a huge assumption. If your mechanic advised you to replace the KS to solve this issue, walk away, regardless of who he is. To find what's causing your issue a tech has to use an ignition scope and perform all electrical tests using scope and multi-meter. Good luck.
@carveriscool Try changing your fuel to premium unleaded, add octane booster if necessary and see if that's the issue. Otherwise you might need to replace the sensor, or the engine have some other fault with timing etc. The ECU/ECM is trying to put the car into a limp-home mode I think to stop the knock/detonation damaging the engine.
@ADPTraining Thanks for the respond. I had few SES light. the noise is lessen due to cold temperature in new york. and the ses code is p0021 which is timing advanced problem. i paid nissan dealer for a diagnostic and they say there is -15degree off when it should be at +5 degree. i am not sure what parts in the engine they are talking about. due to some wearing inside. and they recommend replacing time chain, slave, belt and stuff like that. of course the quote was insanely high.
I have Seat Ibiza 1.4 mpi, 44 kw. But since two month ago car started to lose power and acceleration sometimes and sometimes works perfectly. I take the car to the mechanic and the problem was diagnosed by the computer in the knock sensor. I bought a new sensor and problem was still present. Then my mechanic says my injectors are dirty and need to be cleaned. But problem with the knock sensor is still here after the cleaning the injectors. So if you please could tell me any suggestions what could be the problem with the car, what part should be changed or checked. 16712 Knock Sensor 1 (G61): Signal too High is the cod which is diagnosed. Best regards and I am looking forward for your reply
@slimshadie1290 No, from experience it may be that your MAF (mass air flow) sensor is bad. Try cleaning it or replacing it and it will probably fix it.
I drive a Subaru Impreza. It ran fine when the check engine light was off but when it was on (because of the knock sensor) it was majorly down on power.
HUGE question.. need fast. My knock sensor code is showing and I can see a huge loss of power/acceleration, the question is.. is it worth the money to replace it? Will the new Knock sensor restore power? Or should I look into spark plugs, fuel pump, intake, etc. ?
Would the Knock sensor make an engine hesitate while accelerating at a given speed? While cruising along around 50 mph and then giving it gas,the Xterra will "stutter" during acceleration.Once I'm passed a certain speed it seems to go away and is more evident during colder weather.
I have a question. Does having a knock sensor guarantee that a gasoline engine will not experience knocking if using a lower than recommended fuel grade, at the expense of lesser engine output? Or does the engine need to be calibrated or mapped to accept lower RON fuels. I'm asking because most new TC engines requires at least RON95 fuel, while in my country the highest grade available is RON92 thanks in advance
I don't know what a TC engine is. Most cars can sun on regular unleaded without issues. In the past engines were prone to knocking, but as you pointed out, the knock sensor and ECM go a long way to prevent knocking.
Sorry for the delay, Turbo engines tend the create imbalances in the Air Fuel ration due to the increased air induction. Yes, it is true that gas octane is important on a turbo engine. Stick to the right gas, get an octane additive or change to a non turbo engine. Here's more light on the subject... sites.fastspring.com/autodiagnosticsandpublishing/product/automotive_sensor_testing
When the mechanic had it hooked up to the dang computer and got it to do it's stuttering,it gave the Knock Sensor code as the problem. What could cause the false/misleading reading?
I have 2009 rav4 sports. When the engine is hot and I am under load the engine pings or knock. I took it to the dealer they said it might be the low octane gas. I add a booster to the gas but no change. Another mechanic told me it is my knock sensor. Another said the catalic converter. I dont want to invest in either and they dont solve the problem because they are very costly. ANY IDEAS?
Ok, knocking assuming it's not a mechanical issue is always due to ignition timing OR lean condition. You've provided me with little information. All diagnostic should start with at least a code reading. Also, using a cheap scanner look at your FUEL TRIMS. Any OBD-II scanner will talk to your car. You need to invest in at least a cheap scan tool. Post back with more. Good luck.
Ok good then Im thinking that may be my problem, my engine light is on and the code is for the knock sensor (GMC Sierra)...Ive had major power loss (mainly acceleration at start), and bad gas mileage... So I guess the final answer is get the knock sensor replaced and It will run alot better. Thanks for your help.
Disconnect as in replace it? I was planning on getting it replaced but I didnt know if that will help it run smoother... I've lost acceleration ever since the light has been on.
No one in this channel will ever tell you you're dumb or they'll be blocked off. You're now my protege, I promise. Anyhow, Caps or not your comments are welcomed. try and determine where and how this knock is generated. Post back with more...Mandy.
I wish I could understand what he is saying at 1:37 about the ECM bias voltage. My dsm is throwing a ks circuit malfunction code. New sensor, the ecu has continuity with the signal wire, and the ground wire is grounded. I did notice a small voltage coming from the ecu in mv and I was wondering what it ment
hi i have a 2001 nissan xterra the mechanic gave me knock sensor code .. but will it cause the hesitation i am experiencing it will drive fine till it heats up and then start hesitating to the point where its not driveable,
Here's a bit more light on the subject so that you can understand it... sites.fastspring.com/autodiagnosticsandpublishing/product/automotive_sensor_testing
Hi, I have a subaru legacy B4 twin turbo and after I pass the 3000 revs it starts to hesitate and it revs but it doesn't picks up speed and it tries to shut down, I had it checked and the computer marked that the problem was with the knock sensor, I want to know if this is right or I should check something else that the computer is not showing me, please let me know what you think I would appreciate your help.
I have suzuki alto 2002 and knock sensor light on off. And engine making knocking like tarrr tarrr. I have changed 7 knock sensor but still that problem. And the wiring till computer is ok
i have a nissan 2003 maxima and i have ping/rattle sound when acellerating from 1500-3000 rpms. pinging and rattle very little and to no pinging if it driving at 30mph without adding any gas. but it make noise when adding gast between 1500-3000rpm. this pinging start to happen when engine at operation temperature. bought car at 96k and now almost 104k. this video make me to believe it the knock sensor. could that be it?
tiida 2007 pinging in the engine change two knock sensors same problem ran a scan nothing came but g sensor in cvt. ne suggestions about this irritating pinging. please help
If the engine is pinging the Knock Sensor replacement is not a repair. The Knock sensor is a microphone to the engine. Find out what the pinging is. If it's in the engine it shouldn't be too difficult using a stethoscope or even a long screwdriver (old timer trick). Makes sense?
Here's is a publication that can shed more light on the subject.... sites.fastspring.com/autodiagnosticsandpublishing/product/automotive_sensor_testing
hey man..i have problem with my knock sensor..i want to change that but i don't know where is located ..my is a 2001 ford explorer sport trac can u tell me where is it .please
