I finally found someone who explains the reason for two wires and only one was connected and the function of the graund. Thanks for the video, I have my X stopped for this question.
I've wasted 1/2 day waiting for someone to give a ride to get pig tail end to relocate my knock sensor and here I come across your vedio where you explained about 2 wire or 1 wire to the sensor and you explained it very very well on how to just use 1 wire damn if I would've seen your vedio earlier I'd be done.
Thank you for this. Might I add that I didn't have a meter to show me which side I should connect to so I went with the same pinout you used. The issue was still present 2 days later after many resets of the battery and ecm. For giggles I used the other pinout and fixed my issue instantly "after reseting"
Glad you were able to make it work. When using a knock sensor for a different vehicle or different year model, like we’re doing here, there is no way to be sure if it is the left or right pin - out from the sensor, except to measure each pin to ground and see which is a dead short and which had 750 ohms. Of course, if you don’t have a meter, you can do as you describe here, and just try each pin and see which one clears the trouble code.
Excelente amigo, justo la información que buscaba, sobre el tema de la concion, ya que veo que unos tienen dos cables otros solo uno. Disculpa no escriba en ingles pero mi escritura es muy mala
Does the knock sensor cause the transmission to act weird? Mine sometimes jerks into gear, sometimes not always. Took it to mechanic and the code was pointing towards knock sensors and tps. Got the tps replaced but not the knock sensor.
Hello, Jon. I realize this is an old video. You are probably the most knowledgeable person that I've stumbled upon in all of these different videos that I've watched of relocating the knock senosr, that's why I am going to ask you my questions and hope that you respond. Question #1: Do I have to use a knock sensor from a Maxima? Or can I use the correct one, relocate it, and just use like a spade connector or something similar? Question #2: Some people have stated that the shielding in the coaxial cable needs to be twisted together, crimp a ring terminal on, and grounded to the engine. Or is it grounded on the ECM side? The shielding is there to intercept electromagnetic energy and shunt it to ground, correct?
Hey there, I do not know of anything special about the Maxima KS except that it comes with a wiring harness. Could the piezo element be more sensitive and therefore works better from the new position ? Maybe.... if that is the reason, I haven't heard anyone state that. Just a thought I had. That would be the only difference I can think of. Use your ohm meter to check the shield drain wire jacket to the chasis. If the shielkd conductors show a dead short to ground, then the shield is already grounded on the other end. You can just cut them off. If the shield is NOT shorted to the chasis, then you can either attach it to the engine with a lug OR.... remember that one of the terminals in the knock sensor is attached directly to the base of the sensor and IS a ground. Just use the correct connector and make sure the shield goes to the ground terminal and the center conductor goes to the one that measures 570 ohms. Hope that helps.
@Mrportajon Yes, this does help. Thank you for answering my questions! I just wanted to make sure I had all the information I needed before attempting to relocate the knock sensor.
will this actually detect engine knock properly by relocating it to the top? doesn't the knock sensor need to be in a specific location? would this only help remove any engine codes?
The knock sensor is a piezo element that detects vibrations and creates fluctuations in the signal voltage. These vibrations are present throughout the engine and the piezo can detect these vibrations from any point that is connected to the head / block. The bolt running through the manifold provides an adequate connection to transmit the vibrations to the sensor. Even in the factory location, the sensor is able to pick up vibrations from the cylinders located on the front of the engine. Because those vibrations travel throughout the engine block and head. Short answer: YES the sensor functions in the new location.
So I'm stomped someone I bought my truck from had already done the relocation but I think its wired wrong. Should it be tied into the wire going toward the firewall or away from it?
There is only one wire that you need to connect. The center conductor of the coaxial cable. The outer shield can be cut away and discarded. It is a braided conductor that surrounds the center conductor and it’s jacket. Just use a small screwdriver or pick to unbraid and fray the shield, then twist it all together and cut it loose. The strip the jacket away from the center conductor and connect it to the new connector you are using to connect to the non common pin of the sensors. You can look up the preparation of coaxial cable to familiarize yourself with what coaxial cable is and how to strip and isolate the inner conductor from the outer.
@@Mrportajon thanks.most videos are showing a plug-in to the new 99 Maxima sensor. Why didn't you go with the plug In? It also has a u shaped clip that secured it.
@@mr.skeptical3071 I didn’t have the correct connector. But even if you do have the correct connector to plug into the sensor, the question remains regarding which conductor from the coaxial cable goes to which wire / terminal on the sensor. The purpose of this video was to explain that one terminal of the sensor is just a ground. You test it by using an ohm meter and find which terminal is a dead short to ground. This sensor is a piezo element that measures small fluctuations in resistance between a low voltage signal current and ground. The ecm has a common ground to measure this signal current against and dies not necessarily need the ground wire from this sensor. The only purpose the outer shield serves is as a shield drain, to drain any possible inductive voltage from other conductors running in the same bundle of wires. If you have the right connector, yes, go ahead and connect the braided shield conductors to the wire / terminal of the connector / sensor that shows a dead short (0 ohms) to ground. The center conductor from the coaxial should be connected to the wire / terminal that reads about 575 ohms to ground. But again, if you don’t have the connector and pigtail, you can just find a small, slip on lug from any typical auto connector, break it out of the connector and use it as a single, attaching it to the 575 ohm terminal of the sensor and the center conductor from the coaxial.
Hopefully someone has an answer for me. So when I opened the coaxial cable, I have 2 wires. A white and black or red, I’m not at home so I can’t remember. I’ve tried connecting just the white. Nothing. The other. Nothing. Both, still get the knock sensor code.
Never seen that. If the cable is "co axiial" that specifically means a single, center conductor. Two conductor wires can be shielded, but that is not coaxial cable. Not sure what you have found on your Xterra.
Hey there.... not sure what is going on there. First, I would double check everything. Check the resistance between the chasis and the positive terminal on the sensor. Make sure it within the range noted in the video. If the sensor is out of range, it's either a bad sensor or the wrong sensor. THe next thing that could be going on is that the coaxial wire going back to the ECM could be dmaaged, shorted, etc.... it is possible that your knock sensor was not bad at all. If the wire is broken, shorted or grounded somewhere between the the ends.... that is a problem. I have never checked to see what the ohms shouls be reading back the other way.... but I would disconnect the wire, then check resistance between the center conductor and the braided shield, then between the center conductor and the chasis. it should be the same and it sshould not be a dead short.... wish I could tell you what it should read, but best I can say is that the two readings should match and it should not be a dead short.
I don’t know about any “sub” harness. I have examined several of these engines in the scrap yard with the manifolds removed. If you get a good look at the connector, it looks like it could be possible to get it removed without cutting the wire and splicing in a new connector. Either someone with very small hands, or more likely a mirror and some reaching/grabbing/pulling tools. Either way, whether you cut the wire or disconnect the harness, it would be extremely difficult if not impossible to get the sensor out and replaced successfully. My vehicle has a few thousand miles on it now, since this replacement and the knock sensor fault has not returned.
John, turn your camera horizontal. It appears we are watching a stick video, tall and narrow. Reason is obvious, you are holding your camera vertical. Notice, every TV screen, computer screen, movie theater screen is orientated horizontal, better known as wide screen. Also, we as humans see our world considerably more horizontal than vertical. Your video has the left one-third and right one-third cut off, that is why I named it the stick video.
Relocating the sensor does NOT do the job, waste of time. REPLACE it properly with an OE replacement, it's not difficult just time consuming. Any organied DIYer with motivation can do this, go watch sarah n tuneds video on this.
The knock sensor is a piezo element that reacts to particular frequency of vibration that is carried through the engine. Relocating the sensor has been effective for scores of these vehicles to clear the trouble condition and keep high mileage vehicles operating for owners that don’t wish to invest the money or time in a vehicle that is otherwise only worth perhaps $1,500. My Xterra has been over 50,000 miles since this relocation with no trouble codes or ill effects. The repair has proven effective both mechanically and economically.
