KOHLER COMMAND TWIN CARBURETOR REBUILD EP.04 

Incase it helps someone, my issue was overheating due to partial main jet blockage, just remove the solenoid, pull the brass piece out and it's behind that. Rest of my carb was clean, idle jet looked perfect, only a few tiny bits of crud in the bowl needle/float all good, but behind that solenoid wasn't great, greeny build up on the brass part, solenoid tip dirty and you could see through the main jet but after poking the wire through and blasting with carb cleaner the true jet size was revealed, more than twice as big. Thank you for these videos, really helped me get through mine quicker.

Great Video, John. I have that same motor in my tractor (Massey Ferguson 2927 - a relabeled Simplicity Legacy XL). Your videos were super helpful. I didn't find your video on the coil, though. Two things I would add to help anyone reading this. When rebuilding this carburetor, in addition to the carburetor rebuild kit 24 757 03-S, don't forget to purchase the Diaphragm Rebuild Kit. Kohler Part number 24 757 08-S. It has a service bulletin number TT-5153 in it, that instructs you to ream out the plunger shaft hole (if not done already on a later production model) using a numbered drill #23 Drill bit, to make the plunger rod slides in and out easier. It can corrode, and stick. (Requiring one polish off the corrosion, of course.) So, the hole needs to be 0.153in. That gives it a lot of play to operate without binding. My saga - I had my carburetor rebuilt by professionals, twice, each time for about $300 in parts and labor. The first time, last year, I had to run the engine partially choked to get enough rpm to drive the hydraulics. The second time, it ran for a couple hours, then wouldn't stay running. The professionals didn't replace the diaphragm. When I took it apart following your videos, I found that the diaphragm was in upside down. There's a rim ridge, that fits into the groove. Being upside down, I think sealed the vent-injection holes off. The motor would start, but go into oscillation flapping the choke valve. I did the MDI coil upgrade 25 707 03-S, choosing the right one from the Kohler Parts Bulletin #259 for Command Twin..., but probably didn't need it. But now, the engine is running strong. I think that diaphragm replacement was the key. The new one, was flat, and tight. The old one, was visibly stretched, and warped, compared to the new one. The diaphragm kit comes with a new spring, too, making it more responsive to micro-throttle adjustments from the Governor. Since this motor is constantly being adjusted under load by the governor, there's no way that diaphragm isn't going to wear - the accelerator pump is moving constantly as load goes up and down on the governor. I also put in a new fuel pump kit (that entire valve cover assembly). All totaled, my work got the engine running better than the professionals that rebuilt the carburetor - and for about half the cost I had already laid out. Doing it myself, with lots of photos, got it back in shape where it needs to be.

I had a similar prob. Did the carb and new pump same thing. Changed coils same thing. Turned out the smart spark controller was bad. As it warmed up the controller would heat up as well and started pulling timing till it died. You can buy the controller but it’s expensive. Kohler stop making them. I did the CDI conversation. 116$ came with flywheel. 2xcoils. And wiring. Works absolutely perfect now

Thanks for the video! I'm working on a CH18s spec- 62509 on an 1863 Cub. I have to take mine back apart and clean the tiny port on the low idle jet! I cleaned the large slow idle jet that sticks out. WOW! There was buildup in the bottom portion like concrete. Took lots of work with a torch tip cleaner and blast of 150 psi compressed air.

Very helpful. Thank you! I have a 522xi tractor and went through all this last night.

I love carburetor work .im still watching the vidéo but had to comment

Did you ever get it repaired? The gentleman was right about the mechanical fuel pump diaphragm causing problems when they go bad they will dump a boat load of gas into the head and into the lifters and block that will make the lifters real noisy I'd do a compression test on each cylinder two.

You didn't take apart and clean out the excellerator pump spring and diaphragm on the carb. It's the linkage opposite side of the choke linkage. There are 3 screws that hold a small round plate on the bottom of the excellerator pump linkage. If it's not cleaned it can cause the carb to run a bit rich also. Good video though!

Great video. I'm repairing a Kohler CH25S engine. There's a Keihin 24 053 carburetor. I wonder what the main gasoline nozzle should be there. If you can advise. Thank you.

Спасибо!

Hi did the intake and exhaust valves got ajusted lately....try to pressurise your carb passages use Little soapywater to detect air leak .when engine runs put propane torche open (do not lite it.common sense used here)around carb and engine connections .

hope all is good and busy for you just going thru some of your older vids again

What is the purpose of the solenoid? Can it completely shut off the gas?

I don't see an updated video.. Did you get it fixed?

Great video. Did the repair shop find something else to explain the load drop? Carb setting??

Why did you not get a ten dollar carb kit to replace orings and such while it was apart

The rebuild kit comes with a new idle screw and spring. Does anyone know how to get the cap off? Also it should be set at 1.5 turns per kolers instructions on rebuilding.

What was the problem? Did you get the machine repaired?

John, I'm sorry to hear you're still having issues with that. About that brass jet, you do need to use a torch tip cleaner with carb cleaner to clean that passage even if you can see through it, I know the directions say not to, I can't clean one without doing that and I've never damaged one that way after 40 years doing it. Here's a couple links to "welch plugs" I strongly suggest you look at as well as for your viewers, they're not mine, I don't have any yet. look at both of them, they're different and between the two are very complete. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wAXcksgvDkM.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Hf_R7MeSo5I.html

They're bad about the rocker arms coming lose, bad about bending rods, and valve guides coming out.

coil, spark plug or a dirty air filter? Is it twin cylinder? I had a kawasaki twin that fouled 1 plug about every two years. Very low hours on the machine. I touched one of the exhaust pipes one side was cold thats how I found out the issue. New plug good as new.

Hello what s up with this carb😉

You interested in selling the dingo I know you are selling your skid steer

Rebuild the carb sir.

I think the title should be "how not to build a carb".