I had a Kohler Courage 15 on my lawn tractor built in 2009. Mowing 2.5-3 acres with it till this day. Tractor has no hour meter, but I'm sure it' has 300+ hours on it. Fixed leaking valve cover gasket with RTV (used old cork gasket since it was alright - just cleaned it), adjusted the valves clearance previous summer. Bolts didn't come loose, I check them regularly anyways. Apart from that no real issues, running well so far. I use the tractor for towing quite heavy trailer with it from time to time, my plot is very steep as well.
I have the Kohler Courage 19HP... very much the same engine and have had no issues with it. Bought my Cub Cadet in 2012 and mine is just starting to seep oil around the valve cover so I have a new valve cover gasket for it. I also have not had any problems with the top engine cover bolts becoming loose, but I check them any way once in the Spring and once mid summer just to be safe. Overall the tractor has performed pretty good and I had to change out a starter solenoid about a year ago and am still running the original belts. I am a stickler when it comes to maintenance on my equipment and leave nothing to chance. Good video... thanks for the tips!👍
I also had a Jonsered with the 19hp Kohler Courage, bought it in 2003 only just sold it the end of last year no problems or oil leaks in 16years looked after it well nearly like showroom condition when it was sold. Just put new rings into it and a slight bore hone for the new owner.
I have a 19hp with 800 hours. 3 valve cover gaskets, top cover bolts came loose and got into the flywheel around 550hrs but it didn't crack the block because i heard it screeching and pulled it apart immediately. Around 600hrs valves were way out of spec and just made it back to spec with the adjusters maxed out, carb rebuild was needed at the same time from sitting over the winters. Oil changes every 50hrs, no real consumption yet. Overall it's been a good engine for my typical homeowner use.
I had a cub with that engine. The first one did exactly what you mentioned about the flywheel shearing the bolts off. Kohler replaced the engine, but the new one smokes like a teenagers diesel truck. It definitely doesn’t have the power that the original had. The twin cylinder courage doesn’t seem to have the problems like the 18, 19, and 20 singles had. I wouldn’t trade 1 briggs and stratton intek for a dozen of the courage singles. One thing is for sure, it got its name honestly. It takes courage, and a lot of extra oil and parts to own one.
I noticed after having mine for a couple of years that I'd get smoke from the front of the engine. And I then noticed a pool of oil going to the muffler. And it was the top bolts were loose. So I tightened them, and then had to tighten them again a couple of years later, and they've never come loose since.
Totally agree! Its a great design, easy to work on and cheap parts! It does get ALOT of flack but they always say in the end..."not a bad motor"...lol!
You’re 100% correct about those top bolts. I have a 22hp Koehler courage, running 12 years strong. I got very lucky cuz for the first 10years I neglected to do the proper maintenance. I was dripping oil around the valve cover but the tail sign I was also leaking oil from around the top plate fly wheel area. I tore the motor down to the head, put a new head gasket on, new valve cover gasket. I additionally added a small heat deflector over the muffler, my theory was that the heat from the muffler dried the fork gasket out causing a drip, anywho no drips since I did that & tighten all the top plate bolts. My motor has well over 400 hours & is still running strong, every season now I double check all the bolts. Valuable lesson learned.😂
How did you get the flywheel off? I tried to use a puller, but the bolts wouldn't screw down into the flywheel as if the bolts in the puller kit were the wrong thread or something.
@@colt5189 I initially was going to pull the fly wheel(hind sight it was probably best that I did) but I didn’t. I just tightened the bolts down around the top of the cover. No more drips since then.
I bought a used Cub Cadet that a local lawnmower repair guy had replaced the engine on. It was a most similar engine, an 18 hp courage, and it had a cracked block exactly where you showed. I brought the mower home, and immediately pulled the plastic shroud and flywheel off, and removed the bolts from the "lid" and put locktite on all of them. Hopefully the engine holds up for a while.
J-B Weld SteelStik Steel Reinforced Epoxy Putty Stick - Badly cracked block, cleaned it up with carb & intake cleaner, stuffed it in the crack like packing grease in a bearing - 2nd full summer mowing 2 acres, big hill... I check the oil before each use (as with every small engine), might lose a couple ounces. 2008 Cub Cadet LT1045 with a seized engine for $20, bought a $40 SV600 engine with a cracked block, 'J-B welded it', swapped it out. Cuts and cuts and cuts, doesn't owe me a cent.
I found this video because I was having a similar issue with my throttle body -- thought about putting a spring on but wanted to see if anyone out there had a better solution. So your video inspired me to go tinker around with it, but I kept thinking "what ordinarily pulls the choke forward? There's no chance the weight of that lever is solely responsible for keeping the choke open on idle" So, I wiggled it back and forth and looked for any indication of a missing spring or any other function that might pull it forward ... then I noticed that the choke spring on the carburetor itself was not correctly attached to the little plastic lever. So I attached it correctly and now I don't need to install my own spring. Nonetheless, this video was a tremendous help. Thanks for making it!
I had the same experience with the choke spring on a replacement carburetor that I just put on the engine. The engine had always been hard to start, and while working on the carb I noticed that with full choke applied to the throttle control on the dashboard, the choke plate wasn't closing all the way. So I moved the throttle assembly forward about 1/4" which closed the choke plate completely and made it easy to start. HOWEVER, the governor is no longer providing a stable RPM at idle under no load (i.e., mower deck clutch not engaged). Can you advise how to adjust the governor? Thanks.
I just purchased a cub with the sv600. between the owner and local repair place it was taken apart with the governor gear busted. It appears that the carb was flooding and between the two the governor shaft was loosened and destroyed. I cleaned it out, cleaned oil pump replaced the governor and put it back together. It's has 200 hrs and the wear was minimal. The valve cover is absurd with huge gaps not lining up and rolling between. It appears to be designed to leak. This is my first Kohler, so I see how it goes. I've been running a Briggs vtwin 20hp the last 20years. The engine outlasted the mower though.
On all of the kohler engines I've worked on the oil drain works loose..one even fell out..I've known about the sump cover bolts for a long time..i re torque every one of them..i use a lot of lock tight..and check the exhaust manifold bolts as well..they like to fall out..not crazy about the courage engine..
Thank you for the info. Just got a 2006 toro LX460 with this engine. I have the choke problem. I put a new cheapo carbon it. Runs great. But the choke don't return fully. So now I know what to do to fix it. Plus gonna check all the other stuff. I got tractor from local firehall. It was sitting outside a year an not used much. So I serviced it n mowed last season with it. But still working out lil issues here n there. Gotta leak on trans. Gets all over the brake assembly. Looks like a vent hole on front of trans not sure. But. Thanks for the info on the engine.
I have a weird problem with mine. The speed control lever moves up and down just fine with all the components underneath. Yet, engine runs at high speed only, regardless where the speed control lever is. In other words, it only has 1 speed, and it is high.
@@KensSmallEngineRepair A lot of research and videos said the valve cover gasket is the problem. After replacing it, she still spits oil and blows white smoke. I think I need to replace the rings. It only has 400 hrs on the clock. Previous owner never cleaned it. After taking of the cover, I found a hug (massive) mouse nest with 4 dead mice.
@@KensSmallEngineRepair I ran the engine with out the muffler. No smoke and no oil. Told me right away that the rings are fine. Placed the muffler back, started smoking again. Checked valve cover again and it had a tiny leak. I used the wrong sealant. Will work on it this weekend.
Ken, I just bought a used mower. Manyyrs old. Has a KOHLER 18 COURAGE. I POPPED THE FILTER COVER AND IT CAME OFF WITH COVER. I WANTTO ASSURE I PUT THE NEW ONE BACK ON PROPERLY. CAN YOU DO A QUICK VIDEO SHOWING ALIGNMENT / PLACEMENT OF FILTER. I CUT GRASS 2 TIMES AND THIRD TIME IT CUT OFF. TO ASSURE NO DAMAGE BEYOND, I LOOKED AND OIL FILTER WAS OLD, NEW OIL ADDED TO OLD OIL. SO I BOUGHT NEW AIR ,GAS, FILTERS SPARK PLUG AND OIL. AFTER VIEWING OTHER VIDEOS I WILL LOOK FOR LEAKING AROUND ROCKER ARM COVER,WEAR AREAS AND LUBE ALL JOINTS ASWELL. I HOPE THIS WILL RUN GOOD AFTER. I AM ON DISABILITY AND CANNOT AFFORD ADDITIONAL REPAIRS. I WILL SERVICE IT MYSELF TO ASSURE LITERALLY EVERYTHING IS CHECKED/CHANGED AND MAINTAINED. I AM ON HOLD WAITING FOR YOUR VIDEO. MOST HUMBLE APPRECIATION! Alton
Don't know if this is any good to you.I always had hell putting air filter in,getting jammed up,not sealing,the nuts on air filter cover are nuts,not screws,my studs unscrewed from block and stuck in the nuts.I finally saw that on one video.Loctited studs back into block ,I messed up a few filters and never made a seal, let God knows what into carb.Runs better once I figured that out. i
There's another popular small engine guy on the RU-vid who says they're called a Courage, because you need courage to work on 'em...lol. He calls it the "bucket motor" because of the deep sump and top cover.
Can you tell me how to adjust carburetor on the Kroger engine.also need to know what size screw that holds air filter on the plastic part.someone did not put mine back
I had the same problem but missing the entire cover and nuts. Assuming you mean the wing nuts as the studs run the carb. The nuts snap into the cover. I just bought a new cover that came with the hardware for $13 I believe. I'll check thread shortly if I remember and you just want to run to the hardware store.
JUst replaced ignition modules but when you shut off the engine , there is a humming sound so pulled the battery cable....when I attach the cable now it starts up without help....
You said ignition module(s) plural. Only a single coil on this engine. What exactly did you change? You can send me a pic at Kenssmallenginess@gmail.com. I will be happy to help you. Thanks for watching
@@KensSmallEngineRepair hey a guy gave me one of these the other day said it needs a ignition and a coil.. it’s got a seven plug wire for the ignition can I use a five plug? It’s a super bronco
Great video, I didn't know that the front v valve cover would leak like that, I subscribed. I have a question, do you have a how to on hooking back up the choke and fuel linkage?
Hey thanks for the tips. My issue is not enough fuel passing to the carb. I replaced it and even diss engaged the solenoid. Could it be a fuel pump? Where the heck is it?
Some are gravity fed while others have a vacuum-powered fuel pump. Follow the fuel line from the gas tank to see which one you have. I also check for dirt on the fuel tank as a small outlet hole on some of them, especially newer MTD Cub Cadets, gets plugged up easy. If you have a fuel pump you can test it by pulling off the output hose to the carb and cranking the engine over to see what it’s output is.
Thanks I could not find a fuel pump even tho everything I looked at say it has one. So I think you are correct at gravity fed. I have not checked the output and that’s a great tip! I had gas coming out of the line but did not try and start it…..much appreciated and will try that. Now if its not pushing what next? Maybe an electric fuel pump as an addition? I will also check tank but it looks good. It’s been a great running mower and I use it a lot…..no leaks and never had a problem before….
@Jan Pierini gravity should allow the fuel to piss out of a 1/4 inch fuel hose! If it isn't then maybe your carb has a blockage in the needle and seat?
Ok I will check…..but its a brad new carb and I disabled the solenoid. However, I am getting power to the solenoid so it wasn’t that at all. It is definitely fuel because it turns over when I spray starter fluid then when its gone it dies. I think its the lack of fuel pull or push whatever it is…..??? I’m not a mechanic I just try and use what common sense I have without that knowledge. I do appreciate your help……When my vacuum fuel pump failed on my Polaris Ranger I put in an electric one…..fixed it perfectly. That is why I thought maybe it would work?
I have a Kohler courage 20HP cub cadet mower the engine reves uncontrollable I just bought it thinking a new carb would fix it now I'm finding out it may be the governor. How do I check it and make the determination is it carb or governor related? Thanks Jeff in Buffalo NY
I know it's been 2 years lol but I have the 20hp Kohler courage I was wondering if you still had this tractor ? If you could get me a video of the governor springs and hook ups, I missing a spring just not sure which one
No issues with the cover bolts. But the ones on the frame were coming loose. This motor is demanding, but because of that it's helped me learn a lot about working with my hands
Mine cranks fast, has spark, plug looked good but maybe dry. Sprayed fluid in and put the plug back, no start. Any ideas. I cant find my compression guage.
Any popping out the carburetor when cranking? This would signify a sheared flywheel key. Can you squirt some carb spray into the carb while it’s cranking over? It should lite off if only for a few seconds
Check the bright neon yellow fuse underneath the battery. I have blown mine twice in 4 years. A couple bucks could save you checking for other solutions.
Update. It had its exhaust valve seat pop out. Stuck the valve open and killed compression. I reseated the valve seat and ordered a new gasket kit and now the mower runs great
Thank you!!! Great video , I have a question about kohler ch750 30 hp, one of the exhaust stud got broken, on the right side of the engine, do you know the part number?
Working without a manual on this engine, throttle is hanging wide open, no apparent missing or damaged parts. Question: What is the rod that goes into the engine, underneath the throttle assembly? has a bracket that is attached to the assembly, an rotates about 360 degrees. The bracket was loose, is all i could find. Thank you
Have the same mower and engine top bolts are still tight and the valve cover was cleaned and hasn't leaked any more. It has started surging and losing power after 45 min running. Opened up the fuel cap and still doing it, and cleaned the carb recently and only use non ethanol fuel. Any ideas on what else I an check?
Try changing the spark plug. Is there any dirt in the gas tank that might be blocking the outlet hole? Does adding choke smooth it out when this happens? Does is go back to normal running if you let it sit for 5 minutes?
Can you help? I have a lawn tractor with the Courage 15 engine. I started it this year and it blew smoke. Figured it might be the solenoid, so I replaced the carb and serviced it (including a new plug and checked gap and spark) - also added a fuel cut off. Now it will only start with some carb cleaner sprayed into the inlet. I tried removing the plunger from the solenoid in the old carb to rule out the wiring to the solenoid. But it's still the same. It seems to run well when it's started, but I could sit on the starter all day and it won't fire. Any ideas?
Do you have a video on Carb adjustment on this Courage for surging, also its sucking all my fuel up from my fuel filter do you know the fix if that carb adjustment doesn't work ?
The only adjustment is a low mixture screw on the left side of the carb next to the flange. The only solution for surging is to drill out the Main Jet. Check out this video I found ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JTbjjTPoxR4.html
I have one these , as soon as you turn it on it red lines . I opened it up and the governor gear was bad , replaced it but it still runs to fast and if you decrease the throttle the engine speed increases . lmao i have no idea what is happening now.
Hey ken, do you happen to know the size thread / bolt for the 20hp Kohler courage motor mounts? I got a mower missing the two towards the steering wheel and everywhere online says 3/8-16 but they don't seem to fit right and don't want to force it. Thanks.
Let me take a look, it should be 3/8-16 x 1inch long self tapping screws. www.partstree.com/parts/cub-cadet-710-04683a/ I just use standard 3/8-16 x 1 grade 5 hex head screws and lock washers
@@KensSmallEngineRepair thanks so much! That's what I found as well but they don't seem to thread in and the hole seems clear of gunk so I guess I'll just double check it with a tap and send it on through. Thanks so much.
@@KensSmallEngineRepair thank you for replying. I would it yes because it was about 18 or $19 and that included shipping and it looks brand new. I remove the I guess it's called a pilot valve on the old one and I believe the new one probably has one as well and I was wondering if I open that up some would that have any effect on surging? Or maybe I need a valve adjustment. This is almost like throwing the dice
I just pulled the cover off of this 20hp Kohler and checked my bolts. I did have a leak on the bottom of the valve cover. Do you have any videos on checking the governor?? This engine is racing real quick from the start. I have tried to find a video which will probable be much better than a typed version.
Hi Ken, You have a picture of the motor, If you take of the air cleaner cover you will see 2 carburetor mounting bolts, 1 is metal and 1 is plastic, why is the 1 plastic instead of metal?
its not plastic, it is a oxide coated carriage bolt. The left bolt is a direct stud into the engine block the other is a carriage bolt that is held in place by the plastic shroud. The shroud is held in place by the engine stud and the carb grounding screw. IMO these engines are POS. This guy calls himself a small engine mechanic but needs a pic. Doesn't know if he can get a carb spring?
A side note, these engines are so piss poorly designed they had to put a plastic insert into the intake chamber on the head to divert fuel properly. They also are prone to intake valve seat failure. IMO a huge failure on Kohlers behalf. This is the only kohler engine that I steer people away from. Stick with an Intek
Gaming with Mason probably the best engine ever built is the Briggs Quantum. You can beat the hell out of them and they’ll never break down unless you run out of oil
Usually hunting is due to a lean condition. Has the carb been cleaned? Have you squirted WD40 around the carb base to make sure there isn’t a vacuum leak?
I thought so too until I worked on some of the later ones that had Loctite on the top cover bolts and the reinforced valve cover support and newer gasket that doesn’t leak. People that corrected these two faults can count on long lives for their courage engines. That and make sure there is oil in it lol. Thanks for watching
