I took mine apart today and found loose bolts all over the engine. Only difference with mine was I would get one very hard turn off the starter and then it would stop. Pulled valve cover and found the intake valve hold down screw was loose. I mean sloppy. Rocker arm fell off valve and pushrod and spun around. Tightened hex bolt, reassembled and the damn thing started right up. I was gonna scrap it myself cause I was told by Cub dealer told me I would need a new engine for $900.00. I almost bought a John Deere last week. Cub used to be a good name til MTD bought them out. Same with Troybilt. Thank you so much for this video.
My 18hp was puffing oil so I pulled the valve cover to do valve seals and the guide was backed out. I am a professional automotive technician of 20 years and specialize in engine repair so I know what I’m doing. The guide was actually really tight, it installed like another guide. What happened imo was the valve cover had a very small leak and dirt sticks to oil so over time the heat sinks on the head had dirt caked on causing the head to not cool properly.
I've had the same issue, for years! I appreciate the video. I've always expected to check my valve train and look for the trapped compression issue. But... I have a quick fix, that has worked for me. When this first began, I figured, like everyone else, that the battery or starter was bad. One day, in Home Depot, buying my 3rd battery, after a trying to start after a cold winter, I happened to notice there was a battery, same size, with twice the Cold Cranking Amps as the original battery. I snapped it up! It worked like a beauty, for another 3 or so years. My problem now is when the engine first builds compression. Starting from cold (hasn't been started since my last mow), it cranks over just fine. If I forget the choke or throttle, and it dies, it won't turn over, because now, it has plenty of compression. Here's my quick fix: open the engine hood, exposing the top of the engine, and place your palm on the flywheel and give it part of a turn to move it off TDC. Voila! It turns over! I make sure I'm ready to start it with the choke and throttle set, and if I forget, I turn the flywheel slightly. Works every time. But, that valve guide is probably wrong and I need to fix it. My lower oil seal is leaking bad, so now's my chance to fix the compression too! Thanks everyone for all the suggestions. I was going to put the piston at TDC to remove the valve spring, but the rope trick seems like a 'softer' way to trap the valve. Good thread! Thanks!
Thanks for the post. This is 2024. I also thought it was the decompression took the bottom of the motor off. It’s fine so I gonna go out there and see if it’s that valve guide issue thank you.
Just to let everyone know that does this fix on the following Kohler model engines SV470/480/530/540/590/600/610 The valve guide depth for the intake is 10.20mm and exhaust is 6.2mm just food for thought.
I pulled the springs to check the guides , and they alreadyout about about 3/4 inch from Factory on my single cylinder courage 20. I guess my next option, the compression release gear, or whatever the name is , in the engine. On the Courage 20 HP , the springs pushed in easy with vice grips , just tight enough to hold . Did'nt take but a minute to grab a small piece of board to put between my belly and the grips . That thumb screw can poke . The valve clip comes off and back on easily really .
As per previous post feed a piece of rope into the combustion chamber via the spark plug hole turn the crank shaft to force the rope into the valve to secure the valve.
Great video to shed light on this sugject and many great and helpful comments. Have the same exact issue. Got spring of and now cleaning up the area as a log of gunk seeped through from the overheating which I'm sure unseated the guide. Reading through all comments before I try reseating it.
Another thrick is to feed about a foot of clean rope into the cylinder from the spark plug hole when the piston is at BDC then rotate the piston to as close to TDC which will hold the valve in place without air. You may have to lock the flywheel in place with a wedge or something, or have someone hold it still while you perform the procedure. I've done this a few times and it works great. Just remember to leave a small portion of the rope hanging out the hole and to lower the piston before you try to remove the rope. By the way the valve springs are easily removed with your fingers, just push down and move the keeper sideways to align the valve stem with the release hole and let it come up. Before releasing the valve spring though make sure you have the rope or air in place or the valve may fall into the cylinder if the piston is low enough. If you can't have air on all night just release the pressure and move the piston to TDC to keep the valve from falling into the cylinder. When you work on it next reapply the air pressure and pull on the valves, they'll reseal. Hence that's why I like the rope method. Best Wishes/Blessings Keith
Thanks PJ for the great video. My problem was different but the video helped to diagnose. After pulling off valve cover I noticed that the exhaust rocker was extremely loose. The stud had backed out. Using a 1/2 in open end wrench, after finger tightening, I snugged the stud. I never touched the adjuster nut. Replaced the valve cover and fired it right up.
Im looking into this as a solution with my 19 HP Kohler. I just stoped running the first cut of the season. Found an animal nest blocking air fins and a very loose exaust valve.
I have a Cub Cadet with 104 hrs on it that appears to have the same problem aas you had on this engine. Don't really know what happened to it but will try thanks to your video. Wish me luck.
I was told to remove the heat shield that covers the valve cover as it causes it to overheat. Will not hurt anything and will help the engine run cooler.
thanks for taking the time to post this video, I have talked to my local cub dealer and they have no idea about the compression release or any problems with these engines, so you have helped a lot with this. thanks again
Great video sir. I've got the ole compression hard start issue and the guid is out a bit in head but not out so much it interferes w the comp release. The exhaust cam valve actuates and operates the valve action but I pulled flywheel and all the magnets were comin loose. Jb welded after cleaning.
A cub 1046 V-twin got dropped off and after much cleaning rebuilt carb, adjusted valves mower briefly compression locks as key engages. A couple try's with key and off she goes and runs like a top. I did not think to look at valve guides (rookie mistake). I can hook jumper and it struggles a second then starts. I'm waiting on a mower spindle so I think I'll go back in valve covers.
if a rocker comes off at high rpm on a big kohler , it usually cracks the block. have seen them pop the bolt heads off on top where the case bolts together. keep the valves adjusted.
I bought a craftsman with the same engine used and the 2nd time using it the valve guide came out.A newhead was 150 dollars but I found a guy that fixed the guide and valve for 25 dollars ,that was 3 years ago and its still mowing.
I have the same mower had the same problem. My starter was having trouble turning over and when it did I had compression blow back through the carb. After taking the valve cover off I noticed I had the same problem. I removed the valve, then pressed the guide back in after putting loctite 638 on it, I then used a punch and hit around the guide to help hold it in place. I installed the valve and spring and adjusted valve lash. After the mower started fine. I still need to see if the repair will hold up down the road.
I am glad it worked out. I would be curios to see how long it holds up, keep me posted. was there debris under the cover obstructing the engines ability to cool?
Yes, the two sides of the head were completley clogged with dirt and grass, the guy that gave the mower to me after giving up on it stored it outside the thing was filthy. Thanks for posting the video it would have taken me for ever to see that the guide was slightly lifted.
I haven't read through all the comments, so if this is a repeat, my apologizes. My valve spring retainer broke at 107 hours. And the cup that sit within the spring also looked worn, so I ordered both. I had a hell of a time depressing that little spring. I finally went to a repair shop and asked how it's done. Answer: a spring compression tool. It has two jaws, (one longer than the other) and a large knob to turn. Place the spring and cup within and compress them. Then carefully slide it over the valve stem. I did it several times and I didn't have to apply compressed air through the spark plug hole, (which 50 psi is the recommended maximum). Second problem: When I tighten the rocker nut, it bottomed out and the rocker was still loose. The threaded hole in the nut is blind, meaning that the threaded stud will bottom out. There is no adjustment. The nut does not tighten on its own. To get it to adjust properly, I filed the threaded stud. It doesn't take much, so do a little and test; otherwise your rocker will be over adjusted by the time the nut tightens. What to do if you go too far, (like I did.. dumb shit me): I cut some solder and placed it inside. That was trailer and error. I also used Permatex thread locker. I'll find out tomorrow how this works out. I think it will.
Great information on a problem I have been attracting from the electrical side. New larger battery, new solenoid, new starter, and still same problem. From your description, this is actually my problem. Thank you, I subscribed to your channel, RU-vid is great it's too bad it's run by jerks!
So I thought this was my problem....pulled the head like he said. Then went to go adjust the valve guides. Well I pulled the spec sheet...do not go flush and pean them!!
I recommend not using compressed air unless you have a way of bringing down the air pressure so it wouldn't blow crank seals. If you must, open the dipstick tube to let some of that air to scape. I use rope that I push in from the spark plug hole (make sure you leave some rope tangling out so you can get the rope out again) after locking the engine in top dead center (all valves are closed).
Pretty sure this is the issue I’m having. It cranked like it’s out of time. Sometimes it wouldn’t even crank. I could get it to run for few but it would make a loud bang when stopping like smacking a valve or against full compression like the exhaust is closed when it’s should be open.
Another method of keeping the valves closed while removing the springs is to put the piston at the bottom of it's stroke, feed some rope through the spark plug hole and turn the crank to compress the rope in the cylinder. Just remove the rope when you are finished.
If I gotta adjust mine again I'll have to get more gasket maker. Mine has never overheated and I'm gonna pressure wash mine it has grass an dirt between those heat shields on the engine it does act like it had either to much compression or it's the dead battery it has it could be the starter the starter was slipping.
I just mowed my yard last Friday...mower ran like a dream. Now I went out to start it up and I literally have zero compression. Stuck valve or this compression situation you went through? Kolher courage 17 from 2007
I'm sorry but that's wrong. The punch solution is done on the valve seats, not the guides. Now will the guides move...sure but if they are that loose this is not a solution.
so your saying the valve guide popped up out of the rocker box? i have a 16 hp kohler with this problem of not turning over well. i guess i`ll have to see if this works on a 16 which you only show 17-20. good info to keep in mind thanks.
Hi,I have a Craftsman 4 years old Riding mower 21 hp Briggs & stratton engine . Motor hard to turn with starter ,new starter & battery--It make 3/4 turn & if if make 1 to 2 turn start right up. When starter can not turn it heat up ,without Spark plug engine move ok , I checked the valve clearance .004 & .006 -- Do you think it is a Compression release valve ,how I can be sure of that. Please help ,what other thing it could be?
My mother has a kohler courage 22 v -twin.. runs like a top after it starts but won't get past TDC under it's own power problem has gotten progressively worse. If it were mine i would put a spool on the flywheel and pull start it but she suffers from arthritis. Well I replaced ALL wires, battery, solenoid, pulled starter apart, pulled engine apart (completely) set valve lash from .003 - .005. I can hit it with a fresh 600 cca car battery at the starter and make it turn over but even that will not fire it off twice. Ran a HEAVY ground from the starter to the neg battery terminal to no avail. Only engine issue I found was miniscule run out in the push rods. everything specs. Even cleaned the exaust side of the head with a seafoam soak. I am out of ideas other than sincerely wondering if the starter magnets have lost enough magnetism to make this thing start ... losing my fucking mind on this thing really. Oh and the valve guides are to factory spec.
Did you pull the plugs and try cranking it just to be sure it was not something else. I had one with poor crank. It was the blade engagement not releasing causing mower blades to spin during crank.
The valve guide is my problem, after attempting to reseat the valve guide it does not want to move back into the correct position. I used a socket that sits over the valve stem and a hammer to attempt to reseat the guide and it does not want to move. With saying this I am not sure of the correct height of the guide. So two questions is there a different way to move the guide such as heat? and what is the correct height. Visually the exhaust guide is at least a half inch higher than the intake valve. thanks for any inut.
So I got one I cant figure why it wont roll over. You say valve guide but the valve lash is .005 -007 on the exhaust! Wouldnt the valve lash be out if the guide was out of place? thanks
I'm an aircraft mechanic with 30 years of experience working on cars, trucks, boats, mowers and of course airplanes. This engine is the biggest piece of shit ever produced. I've fixed the exhaust valve issue 4 different times. It simply refuses to run properly. If you own one of these pos....sell the sob while it still runs. You will NEVER, I repeat never get this turd to run consistently. You've been warned.
Can anyone help me.I got the same engine,its a 20hp kohler courage single cylinder and if it the hand tighten the exhaust side it is hard to get passed the exhaust stroke.i have taken the cams out many times and times them but some how when it's not to spec and the gap between the rocker arm and the valve stem is way to big I still bend the push rod and then i can't get said push rod out.Anyone have any ideas?I'm new to this so don't judge me.
I have a John deer riding mower 105 and the push rods not working won't go up and down when you turn it over but the values is working but not pushing the rods up and down what should I do
I have a courage 22, wont start, what do I take off to adjust the compression release , or valves, the top ? the front where the spark plug is ? its probably loose bolts, I had it worked on before and that's what he said it was, don't want to take it back to him.
pjm0551, I have a 2005 Cub Cadet LT 1042 rider with a Kohler 19 horse SV590 bucket engine. I realy appreciate your info and research. If all of this info. is correct, then why I when I google "images" this Kohler cylinder head part number#2031814 or #2031814-s shows the valve guides installed approximately at what you describe about a half inch high from the factory? Are they built- installed wrong? I have noted success stories commented on previously. That being said, I already reset mine flush and peened before looking at the photos! arrgh!! I'm waiting on a new starter and will update my success or failure.
Wow! success, got the starter on this afternoon and it started like new, no drag or stop...quick and smooth. I also set the intake and exhaust valves at .004 as per Taryl on a Briggs & Stratton valve adjustment video of his. He said it would work on Kohler and like engines. He mentioned if the valve lash setting is too loose it wouldn't actuate the ACR (automatic compression release) So i'll check valve lash every 50 hours or so. Flushed with success. Thanks again pjm0551.
Sure you have figured this out already, but for others - shop manual is easy.to find and specifies valve guide height. Exhaust should be "higher" than intake.
your not pressurizing the crank case just the cylinder "I recommend not using compressed air unless you have a way of bringing down the air pressure so it wouldn't blow crank seals. If you must, open the dipstick tube to let some of that air to scape. I use rope that I push in from the spark plug hole (make sure you leave some rope tangling out so you can get the rope out again) after locking the engine in top dead center (all valves are closed)."
That's just the gap between the rocker and the valve stem that allows for expansion as the engine heats up. Usually .004-.007 for the intake and .006-.009 for exhaust.
Larry Fine yea, or just use a piece of printer paper (they’re standard at .004), that’s how Taryl does it. He’s a youtuber on here, been doing it that way for 30 years
Hate this engine. Biggest POS in the small engine world! The cracked block (case) is usually because one of the case bolts back out and catches under the flywheel.
These engines are junk. Its no surprise that your parts motor is cracked. Probably cracked next to the cylinder on the muffler side. The counterbalances self destruct too. The engine block is thin also. Get it running and sell it. Do yourself a favor. Good luck!
