Hi Charlie, So the saga continues with my dr 125 sm efi. I've realised I have an intermittent electrical fault. Sometimes when I move the tank to see a bit better it appears the fuel pipe is rubbing against the wires for the efi solenoid. The ignition won't come on but when I move the tank,hey presto. I've already had to do a repair on the stator cable! Getting dark now, I think I'll have another poke at it tomorrow and try and bodge a repair,the plug is the resin filled type to stop water ingress,I do think it may be broken inside so this may be enough to turn over but also enough to throw the cdi into a wobble and stop spark because it thinks there's no fuel! We'll see I'll get back soon. 👍🏻
@@motorcyclerescuer Lots firsty is cannot dyno tune unless have master software dont mistake for free one not the same easy or booster plugs do same gain I only had evo as I had full leovince (still have midpipe for sale) but later removed and my current exhaust is all stock apart from decat and drilled out rear baffle but if doing air box mods full exhausts etc torque is all you are really going to gain even more on 125s I sometimes think it was faster when I road out of premierbikes and home but i think down to confidence and well need bigger bike lol But having a blast every day so why bother
@@motorcyclerescuer Ive only every heard good things for the powertronic both self adapt and software they also have a reputation with KTM But all my experinces and waste of money has been down it only being a 125 although fully derestricked now still only a 125 lol so im sure will be different with bigger bikes
😂 we all did this with our learner bikes, trying to make them go faster ie big bore kits to 180cc etc. Yet we never thought about upgrading the brakes lol. Think its time Rabjab got his big bike licence, it'll be cheaper in the long run.
You have to be quick enough to pull the brake lol. Honestly I don't think it's added power I think it's just richened the mixture to save his piston. But yes big test would he good. It takes him years to ever follow through with anything
Thanks for the video mate ,were the settings on the instructions correct for the slip on exhaust and air box mod or did you have to adjust them ? I've got one and not too sure ,any info is appreciated ,thanks 😊
Hi Robert, the settings I gave were for the exhaust change and high flow filter. If you put a open lid on then you would change the settings. But for full exhaust and high flow filter the settings are what I gave. Hope this helps
@motorcyclerescuer thanks mate have you got a link to where it has the settings for various mods ? The settings for mine in the instructions are 6 on the settings trimmer and +2 for fuel ,what would u recommend for the slip on and the less restricted air box lid with the foam attached and stock air filter? Cheers 😃
I've heard bad things about the lid. Its actually to much air. You will lose power if you use that lid. If you do you will need the fuel at max to counter for it however your rapid bike easy only adjust for the idle and up to 2 or 3k revs. This means when you are riding at higher revs your bike will still be very lean. Your engine could over heat and blow. So my advice would be to use the in box high flow filter and exhaust with the base settings for best running. The setting they told you to use is the setting for exhaust and in box filter.
There are good versions of the lid but there has been many people who's has broke. A few where the filter element was sucked through the engine. So I would avoid the lid myself. You will feel a difference with the exhaust and in box high flow filter. It will pull away quicker and feel smoother
Hi Steve, I've tried every trick in the book with holes in tanks and none worked. All the special puttys etc. Your best bet would be to drain it fully, air it out and get a spot of weld on or some sort of tinning I believe. Sorry I can't be more helpful here mate
I wouldn't I'm afraid. To much can go wrong with these big bore kits. Even if they fit and it starts they don't always last very long. I would suggest an original bore for your bike
@@motorcyclerescuer I know they don't last long mate, I've had 2 strokes and have fitted them myself I'm just not comfortable doing it on four strokes. Do you know what I'd need to change to put a vespa lump in it then? Is it just the stator and flywheel or would I need to change the loom? Thanks anyway
You shouldn't need to change the loom actually, the only difference may be the stator wires but you could just wire them up working out the colours. It should be fairly simple to drop another engine in
@@motorcyclerescuer I've been looking for older ones before they went to fuel injection because I don't know how to convert them to carb but been worried about needing other things that's why I wanted a 200 vxr engine as it would be plug and play.
