I also have the Chartermade L'Indispensable Brass Knife. I also ordered the Left hand version blade with flat side on the left and bevel on the right. It is as sharp as the demonstration shows it to be. I learned to sharpen my knives after watching this video and the Chartermade skiving knife sharpening video. (I have that knife too) All my knives are sharper now than they have ever been. It is easy when you know how.
You are a fine gentleman for sharing your knowledge. I truly appreciate it. You have helped me achieve making a very limited amount of leather goods. But the joy it brings me is very large. Thank you
I'm really happy you made this video because I ordered one of these from Rocky Mountain LS several months ago and it arrived..not as sharp as I was led to believe it would be. I stropped it and got a half a dozen good cuts on a piece of 2mm veg tan, then had to strop it again. I'll give it a real sharpening. I have you skiving knife, as well, and it's fantastic. Again, thanks for this instructional video.
Just received mine. This thing is sharper than described if that’s possible. Cannot wait to put it to use on a project. I’m guessing with the D2 steel and proper stropping it will out last and out work any other.
I just received this blade and it's wicked sharp! The chisel grind is great and allows for a natural hand position. Have you considered making a Chartermade handle for your blade? Thank you Terrick!
I tried to order through the link you provided but I didn't see your blade offered as an option. I did see that I could purchase the knife alone or with the Vetgez Blanchard blade.
Seems like a very well made blade, although I wouldn't have thought that a single bevel would be the edge of choice. I have only seen a limited few chisels and knives which had a single bevel edge and they were mostly for purposed specialized cutting. But, I can see that a bevel, away from the cutting edge of the piece of leather you intend to use, might act as a wedge and push the off cut part away from the leather being dimensioned. One suggestion, I have always felt that the "ultimate" test of the sharpness of a blade was not simply slicing through a thick sheet of typing paper. There are a number of reasons for this theory: that kind of paper is made of a rather low grade pulp and is loaded with microscopic "trash" in the form of tiny stones, dust, foreign debris, and other contents which may do more harm to the cutting edge than is imagined. And I was always told that cutting on any type of processed wood product like low grade paper and cardboard was very hard on a keen edge. When I want to check the edge of a newly sharpened blade for burrs, tiny knicks, some of which are barely visible with the naked eye, and such, I use a regular cash register receipt from a food store or other dept. type store. The paper is finer in texture and will simply fold up or collapse under the slightest pressure from a not so sharp blade edge. But, if you did your homework on the final honing and have the edge where you feel sure it should be, it should slide through a register receipt with very slight pressure and cut smoothly and cleanly from beginning to end of the cut. Give it a try, you may be surprised at how dull your edge may still be. I have found that you may have to take your paper "holding" fingers and form a slight curl in the paper to give it just enough resistance to allow the blade to slide through the edge of the receipt to start the cut and then it's like skating on ice.
Hi Tom, thanks for your detailed comment. The single bevel does part the leather and gives for a much smoother cut. (this blade specific) I don't check for sharpness by cutting through paper but used it as a visual in this video to show the people watching that the blade can still do that as well as shave hair after cutting multiple pieces of leather, which is what the blade is designed for. (cutting leather, not shaving hair) I absolutely agree with you that the paper test is not a measure of extreme sharpness and you are very correct in saying that cardboard and paper are very abrasive to a keen edge. After sharpening 1000's of knives I have an acute feel for a sharp edge on the tips of my fingers so that is all I do after sharpening, feel the edge. Its sometimes a challenge trying to demonstrate what a blade can achieve on video so hopefully all the little visuals showed it can cut leather well. Thanks again for taking the time to share such a detailed response. Regards Terrick
Just one question,,, you kept making the statement,, “ this is not what the blade was designed for” ,, obviously you meant cutting leather because that’s all you did with the blade. My question is ,, what was the blade designed to do ??
bro i dont know if you even see this comment please guide me on how to cut a thick and stiff raw leather like 5mm and its like a wood very hard to cut i dont know if i should use water to soft it i tried water kept it in the water all night and it just ruined my leather please make a video on cutting raw stiff heavy lleather if possible, if not then pleaase reply thanks and keep on uploading videos i like your channel very much and love you more then your channel i wish if you were my elder brother
Terrick I'm just glad to finally see a well engineered blade in quality steel for the little french leather knife. Their blade steel is woefully lacking. Thanks for bringing it to the marketplace and at an affordable price too.
I received late yesterday and spent some time cutting on scrap pieces. Wow! What a difference... The blade cuts so smoothly I believe it actually leaves a slight burnish on the cut edges.. I thought the single bevel would require adjustment in method but instead seems to naturally follow the score line. I can only imagine that working with such a small blade presents challenges to the knife maker. Kudos on a well made blade! Thanks again Terrick!
Thanks for letting me know and so glad its working well for you. Yip, making these to this level was quite a challenge which is funny to even say considering I make folders and other knives with lots of detail, but to get such a small blade to perform like this tooks loads of work. Thanks for noticing the work behind it. Regards Terrick
I’m confused on the side the bevel is on. I easily would have thought the bevel for a lefty like me would have been on the left side. That way the flat is on the right and visible to the person using it and more accurately cutting to a line or against a straight edge.
Thank you. I imagine behind you the large "pice a coudre) sewing horse is a custom made. Where did you get it. The one from France is so small it is impossible to sow large article Gilbert Dufour toronto
Hi, love these blades and acctually all your items :) But do the L'indispensable knife come with the handle ? Seems as it is only the replacement blade you offer. Hope to hear from you. TR Norway.
You have the buy the handle separately. The same as if you were buying it from Blanchard. That’s the whole point. The original blade is terrible so he made his own version of the blade.
I use a knife exactly like this to fit a violin bridge. This is interesting for a luthier. Where are you from? Your accent sounds South African, maybe?
Hello Terrick i will like to know your reasons, you choose the flat bevel on the right side. Cause im used to work the other way around in food industry tools
Hi Terrick, I got your blade with the L'indespensible handle from RMLeather not too long ago, and I think I may have messed up the angle while sharpening it. Instead of the nice flat grind it seems I rounded it somehow. Can you tell me the original angle of the grind so that I can try and restore it? Thanks in advance
Hey, the nice thing about these little blades is that they easy to fix up. I hand sharpen them so I dont have a set angle but it would be around 15 -20 degrees. Also, when it comes to sharpening a little blade like this you can experiment with your edge and see how it cuts for you. Regards Terrick
D2 is tool steel, it does not hold an edge "like crazy"; however its better than your 440c, or 420 heat treated for edge retention and still easy to sharpen. I'd imagine for leather working it more than sufficient. I'm not knocking the product, I've been unhappy with that claim more than a few times when purchasing knifes. My daily work knife is a Ontario RAT 1, D2 blade. For the price point its seems like a fair deal for the blade holder and your blade.
I bought blade and handle from rocky mountain but the blade doesn't have any brand engraved on it.... and it's not that sharp like in the video I wonder if the blade is different when I order together?
I don't make the handle, and the blade that I make is sold separately to the handle on the rocky mountain website marked as Chartermade Replacement Blade, and it is engraved with the chartermade logo.
@@CHARTERMADE Thank you I figured that later on, I received different blade... I'll probably get your blade in the future, I wonder how long do they stay sharp after sharpened or stropping.
Hi there Terik (hope I have spelt your name correctly ). I am a Harness and Saddle Maker in New Zealand. I love the knives you make and was wondering where I can buy them and how I find out the cost of them. Thank you for your help. Cheers Rod Kraal, Round Knife Harness and Saddles.
A chisel grind japanese knife has to be held at an angle to cut straight. Why does this chisel grind knife cut straight where the japanese chisel grind does not
Not that I know anything about video making, but sometimes I want to be able to see what your doing, and not a close up shot of your face. To me it seems like the tripod shot is zoomed in too far.
