i like your thinking, this guide is great. I'll have to start assembling the parts to build my own. With time and patience im sure i could get a great deal thats worth less than a new car haha.
Hey, do you have ANY idea where you can obtain the Butterfly Ring and the IIT retaining ring? I have the opportunity to get a lot of extremely cheap complete PVS-15 housings. But they are missing the Butterfly Rings and retaining rings, I can not find anywhere selling them.
I’ll be installing a new objective lens assembly on my pvs15. I see you tightened the set screws then you set your focus to infinity and screwed them in?
Great Video where do you suggest sending them to be purged, and culminated. I just bought a set of very expensive tubes for my 15's and the last guy I talked too offered to build them for $500. Thank you in advance
500$ is way to much, you've just seen how easy it is to do. But as stated at the end of the video you'll need to get them collimated and purged but someone that has that equipment. I recommend steele industries from Florida. I wouldn't be surprised if the service would be less than 100$ all said and done.
What’s involved with purging and collimating? Everything seemed pretty simple I think im going to sell my pvs14 and build one of these if purging isn’t a big deal
Benelli Sucks I haven’t really been able to find tubes for cheaper than just buying a new set so I don’t think I’m going to bother thanks for the reply though
@@americasrifle7868 If your paying over a hundred bucks to get a set purged your wrong. Purging does not improve lifetime or prevent tube degradation. The most important thing you can do for a set of binos are to collimate.
@@fossegrims Doesn't quite work that way. If you pay $800 for tubes they are going to be really shitty tubes. You might be able to find some used gen 3 thin-filmed tubes for $1k each. Also, don't forget the cost of the glass. The objective lenses and ocular lenses do not come with the housing. That is probably going to be another $600 minimum.
I’d really love to know how you’ve managed to get 3 intensifier tubes and your pockets don’t hurt. And I just saw your review on the $800 PVS/14 case. You must be made of money
@@LukePRTR so the bridge mounted pvs 14s are not beneficial, or duals as a whole? I should just stay with my pvs 14 then you'd say? I might just order the nicer Wilcox mount and j arm to make it more solid and just roll with it. I haven't shot at night in a month anyways.
Some Nitrile or Latex gloves wouldn’t be a bad idea, but Body oils won’t do any harm. These arnt exposed electronics without any ESD protection and even the exposed optical faces were not touched during assembly. Just do it slow and deliberate and you will have success.
I have a pair of mx10160/UV tubes in mine. But are they native to the pvs15c? Cuz I thought it was the unfilmed L3 EOS. I bought them referb so idk if the ones I have are less clear than the unfilmed EOS. Thank you
Is it possible the difference between A and C models is the direction the tube installs? I had read they install from the front... of course the video clearly shows the opposite.... I have pvs15 and was wanting to swap it's old tubes into a new build of mine and wait to get some super tubes for the 15s.... bc honestly the 15 lens are truly amazing and 66 water rating is best in industry.
I’m 99% confident it is the same as the Charlie. But be careful during objective lense install because the amount of material around the threads on the body is very thin and prone to cracking if you overtighten your ocular lense onto the body
@@LukePRTR appreciate the tips and concerns! As of now, I'm only needing to tear down to remove the tubes. When I get new super tubes (sometime next summer probably) I'll end up sending the pvs15 to someone to make sure it is greased up, sealed and purged correctly as I want them in top shape. Current build is 1431s with Ether objectives. Just looking to have some fun installing, and having a housing that if a lens breaks or anything, that it's easier or order a replacement for and do myself. Leaving my 15s as my elite set, when I get some super tubes for them. Really can't stress how glad I am you posted this video!!
hooow did you get your 15 housing?? haha i want to be friends with your friend. really want nods. really, truly cant come up with the money to buy them legit.
I'm working on nvg knowledge sorry, will this work with gen 3 binoculars??? And what are the parts I should look out for with compatibility. I don't wanna spend 5-10k all at once, if I build them will I get similar quality with the manufactured pvs15 as with the home built ones if u use quality parts
pvs15/18 screw in LIF's also can take sacrifice windows and everything that's works with standard PVS threading. btw do you know difference between 15 and 15c?
Hi, just finish a build by following your guide. But the IR indicator light only turns on for the left side, while the right side keeps off. Would like to know is it normal? Thanks a lot!
Yes there are manual gain versions of the Adams Ind Sentinel, AB RNVG, AB Mod 3, NVDevices BNVD and Obviously theres always the option for Dual PVS 14's.
The Savage hey so all pvs15s use the same optics, tubes and rings etc but have different housing versions mainly the C version and A versions. The easiest way to spot a A housing from a C housing is a single screw attachement for the dovetail shoe in the top of a housing there’s a couple other differences but that’s the biggest and most noticeable.
I’m sure there are internal upgrades with the C version vs the Older A but but I only know the noticeable differences And don’t know the internal differences, my apologies
@@julian23561 no lol, they were gen 3 blemmed 11769 that was missing the pigtail. it was 100$ shipped. lol. Ive never payed more than 800$ for a clean or blemmed tube. All were gen 3 L3 or ITT
Depends, if your PVS 14s has a MX11769 then they need to modified by removing the pigtails and have resistors installed, to set a gain level. If they have 10160's then they will drop right in! An easy way to tell if you have a 11769 or 10160 is if your PVS 14 has a functioning GAIN knob. If the knob does not work or change brightness then you have 10160. This is fairly common on budget PVS 14's or PVS 14's that are using ANVIS tubes.
Polynikes868119 unfortunately it isn’t that easy, vendors net big profit from taking advantage of un informed buyers by selling complete units. Your best bet is buying used or part outs from eBay or facebook
