If any recent work was done , involving the camshaft or the sensor, camshaft cover, wheel,,etc You may have to do a cam sensor relearn procedure. the light may indicate the absence of data in the pcm to calibrate the variation values needed to monitor the camshaft position, with regards to the lab scope patterns, you need a [ known good ] signal pattern to compare to lab scope traces you are looking at. Timing chain jump is possible but relatively speaking a rear occurrence
Thanks boss I just bought a verus I didn't go to school but Im learning a lot with the videos. but one has uploaded any videos how to use or huck up the the test leads verus thanks again
Very much informative at all aspects; one thing.. when used Green Port for 2nd Cam Sensor, also used 2nd Ground onto 1st. If we use 3rd and 4th Channels as well, we need to make their Grounds also? I meant for each Channel we have to use Ground?
I have to point out that if you see no signal coming from the cam sensor you would need to make sure that the other two wires are at the proper voltage or ground. You should also inspect the pigtail for bad (opened up) terminals. and/or do a wiggle test on the connector. I also don't agree with using the style of probe that pierces the insulation, this can damage the wire and allows a place for moisture to get into the wire causing corrosion and eventually high resistance.
Guys there is a pico scope and a cheaper version Hantek . I purchased the Hantek 4 channel for about $450.00 and it works great! You can do the same test and it has other great features.
Hey Chiba I have the hantek scope and its a pile of junk,not happy with it at all and cannot be compared to a pico,it's ok to get started but yer not my Thing,btw do you have a vertical voltage scale? Mine dosnt
Why did we have to piggyback another common ground? So now we have two wires going to the same negative post? That's sort of doesn't make any rhyme or reason why. It's already grounded
i have a 2002 ford f150 whit code p1336 crank -cam concern , i clear the lightt and come back on at firts trip, how do i know if the paterns are good, what wave should i expect, how i know if this is a timing chain jumped, could you tell me how the paterns should see on the labscope when there's a good timing chain and how they look when there's a jumped chain... thanks
Thanks for doing the video. I agree. I was thinking the very same thing, since maybe it was a pull-down type circuit and a wire was rubbing ground somewheres only when the car was warm.
You would need to check power and ground at the PCM. Also need to check for the (5) volt reference coming from the PCM. A shorted sensor can cause the PCM to stop sending out the five volt reference voltage.
If we only have one sensor, the flat line and the scope connections wires are good, can we tell if the power and ground at the component are good from the lab scope by voltage reading or would we have to power probe the sensor sides?
Bonita, if your sure you leads and scope settings are correct and you still have a "flat line", then you have no signal. To answer your question - no, you cannot tell that the power and ground signals are good because if they were you would be seeing them on the screen. So, yes, you would need to use a power probe, back probe directly into the sensor and verify that there is good power to the sensor, and a good ground. If so, then the sensor is bad. However is you do not have good power and/or ground into the sensor, then you cannot expect it to even give you a signal. So, at that point, even if you replaced the sensor with a new one, it would not produce a signal either because it would not have good power and/or ground. First correct the power and/or ground and then look for a signal from the sensor. If you still need help understanding this, check with me in class and I'll go a little deeper.
