How To Test Crankshaft Position Sensors (CKP) The Right Way 

I have been asking for help and telling people to pretend. Like it's the crank shaft class for dummies. And they don't get it. This is exactly what I needed. Thank you so much for putting this video out. It was thorough and in -depth and very easy to understand.

Awesome video! Informative and simple to understand. You guys are great teachers!

Finally a Chanel that goes in depth

Your lesson knocked it out of the park! Awesome instructor.

Forgot to say thankyou for a very,very thorough/detailed youtube!

Great class professor, you're so right about an inductive (analog) type CKP not being good eventhough it ohms to spec. I had a Pontiac Grand Am that would die on me about 15 minutes after reaching operating temp. I did a resistance check on it after car cooled down and it was good, so I went looking for something else. Couldn't find anything, so I waited for the car to die again and did a resistance check, it was in the Megaohms. I replaced it and car ran great. No more dying out.

Great piece of work and well presented, thank you!

Top gun mechanic with theory put into practice

Very well presented. Thank You.

Excellent. More of this kind of videos. Take care.

AWESOME information thanks for sharing as always.

Very informative! I almost skip this great video.

Good content, nice delivery!

Great explanation.

Great topic ! Great tutorial !!

Earned a sub with this video. Great teaching!

First , great video. Very informative. And I can show my friends why I'm not crazy! I can usually tell when something is wrong before the computer triggers the engine light. My friends think I'm crazy when I replace sensors when the M.I.L. is not on. But when I notice a difference after replacing a sensor, whether good or bad, I know it was beginning to fail. Sometimes I have to change multiple sensors because the first one makes it run different or even worse. Think....when they wear together they start to compensate together too. Just don't wait till the car warns you something is wrong because by then who knows how much it has compromised the motor or catalytic converter. Expensive shit to replace.

Thank you for the video 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

Love this! Good information thank you

Great video!

Thank you very much ❤

really appreciate that mate / BRILLIANT !!!!

Thankyou, the level of the VR sensor is critical. I had a Ford F250 that only has the VSS on the back axle. Even with a new sensor it only read about 350mV P-P. It would operate the speedometer but was not good enough for the ABS and ECU. You need at least a couple of volts and some go much higher. like 20V at speed. From various videos I think it should be at least 4V P-P but there seems to be nothing in service data on the expected output. Also some are grounded and some a floating.

Good Job, Thanks !!!!

Excellent 👍🏻👊🏻

Thanks

Right on right on

Nicely done! You should be an instructor!

great!!

perfect presentation very well put together information 10 points from me P.S. what happened with the gotech garage t-shirt questions 😀

Thanks Ryan , perfect explanation re: Crank shaft sensor! Have you made a 'vid' on testing the Cam Position sensor? With 'key ON and engine OFF', I cannot get my DVOM reading to drop to zero V when I place a metal object on the base of the sensors, as many RU-vidrs demo! It's driving me 'nuts'! Please help.....Lofty, Qld, Australia.

tks

If u can help me here to understand more on how to test camshaft sensor if I connect my voltmeter negative wire to ground wire of the camshaft sensor then posetive voltmeter wire to the signal wire of the camshaft sensor it shows 5 volts but if I put metal gear or a metal screwdriver the voltage dropped to 0.01 In the first place is it supposed to show 5 volts or any voltage reading without putting the sender close to a metal coz on your vid is shows tht it must produce voltage when the camshaft or crankshaft is turn or spinning

can you use an inexpensive (e-bay 25.00) hand held O scope to test a 2 wire analog CKP? Also is 2 wire always analog?

What Scan tool and model do you recommend for aftermarket shop owner. I’m looking to upgrade my older Snap on modis and looking at possible Autel.justnot sure which model is best bang for the buck

I got a request for a video that might be good. When is it NOT safe to use a test light? I admit I get a little confused here because of the info out there. The incandesent and the led. Which is better? Do you need both? Maybe you already made a video? Thanks for your videos guys.

Can you guys show the connections?

Seen ten million videos on people using a test light to check ground and voltage supply to crank sensor. He said dont, yet scanner danner, diagnose dan, pine hallow, south main, and dozens of others have. I also have… a test light is fine on that circuit…

Good job, but you didn't mention how does the hall effect sensor really work ? and what about the signal, Is it from the sensor to the moodule or from the module to the sensor ?

👍🏻👍🏻

Is it possible to have a faulty sensor that will not issue a code?

If the vehicle will not start, will you garner enough information on the scope with just the starter turning over the engine?

Boss ihave 2017 audi a1 fualtcode c104b29 and u101700 that small yellow sliding light comes on and one massage on the culster stabilisation control (ESC)fault see owner's manual iam atuo electrian and check wiring power ground ignition and can bus everything is there and ican ask some one he told me about voltage problem ican cheng the alternator brand new battery and cheng the abs module but problem still there and same fualtcode when ican clear the codes are clear but when I drive the car same light same massage and same fualtcodes come back can have any idea please

How would a magnetice tone wheel would affect the wave form? What would it be the characteristics on the waveform to say that the tone wheel is magnetice?

So is it a myth that if you turn the engine by hand you should see the 3 wire go from 12-0-12 (or in your case 5-0-5)?

Hi, can you please show us how this pattern looks like on canbus raw data?

Great engineer, please help! How can I solve this car problem? Recently, a client called me to fix his 2000 Toyota Avalon car that cranked but wasn't starting. From the onset, the car experienced several mechanical, as well as, electrical issues. Some of those problems were:- (1) Engine Oil consumption; (2) Engine misfire; (3) Engine rattling; (4) Intermittent hard starting after shutdown; (5) Hard to engage in drive, except engine is hot; etc. Hence, he took the car to a garage inorder to rectify the excessive Engine oil consumption and other car problems highlighted above. Consequently, the car problems exacerbated after engine rebuild by the engineer! The car owner wasn't satisfied with his repairs because it seems the engineer was deceitful. Although the car started after the rebuild, the problems still persisted. Valves weren't grinded after engine overhaul, engine still misfired at idle and when accelerating, etc. The engineer whose garage the car is presently being parked, requested for another engine overhau/ rebuildl. After engine rebuild the car started, the oil was mixed with water; the engine was still misfiring, rattling, etc. It was obvious, that he didn't use durable parts to do his work. Hence, the car owner moved the car to another garage for better repairs. The new garage suggested to the car owner that another engine rebuild is pertinent for optimal engine operation. During my conversation with this engineer, whose garage the car is presently being parked, he told me that: "when the car was first brought in, he noticed a black smoke ( maybe he was mistaken for blue smoke, at exhaust tail at idle). When accelerating, there's a loss of power, engine bucking, popping,etc. After the rebuild, the car didn't start because the mechanic didn't unlock the car with the remote but proceeded directly to cranking the engine. In addition, the security relay wasn't actuated for starting to take place. Electrician did some wire cutting around that axis which he said was corrected to factory, opened with a remote before the car started. Fortunately, after everything, the car started again. But there was still an intermittent misfire. What the car owner said was that, 'even when the second mechanic did engine rebuild, the car still misfired. Until he personally bypassed earth from the COP wire to the solenoids very close to the fuel injector often tightened with 10mm knot and depicted with blue and green colors on the picture. Car owner verified that the reasons for the misfire from both mechanics which still prevailed, was due to the solenoid valve that wasn't opening. That's why when accelerating it experienced a loss of power, similar to that experienced by a faulty fuel pump. After gear oil replacement and test driven by the second mechanic , smoke started emanating from the engine bay. Precisely, from the fan relay that the car owner connected by himself. Within few minutes, the car shutdown by itself as if fuel is finished. As he tried to restart it, the car refused to. Infact, when the ignition switch was turned to Acc/ ignition position, battery and fuel light was not displaying in the dashboard/ instrument cluster. However, during cranking battery light glew faintly and start. But when throttled, it would shutdown. Electrician verified and replaced the alternator diode with a new one. When Ignition switch was turned to Acc/ ignition position, the battery and other lights came out brightly but when cranked to start engine wouldn't start again. Sadly, it still wouldn't start. I tried to scan for DTC codes, but my scanner wasn't communicating. I checked all fuses, power and ground at obd port, those checked ok. but my scanner isn't compatible to read CAN network. there are only 4 wires intact for the obd2 port. Furthermore, I added fuel through the intake to the engine, no change at all. I checked for spark and injector pulse. These things weren't present. But there was power to injector with just the key at ignition or ACC and COP had 1 ground and 1 power as usual. Electrician from that garage, who also worked on the car said that he sniffed burning smell from the ECU, however personally I didn't when I went to start the car. I don't know how certain that was. Hence, I pulled out the ECU to a laptop board engineer to test the components inside. He said: "everything looks ok and test fine, however the IC he doesn't have the right tools to proceed with the test. With the ECU removed battery connected, Engine light would come ON. with ECU connected check light still comes ON. Before I left, I checked the MAF sensor 5 wires and noticed that 3 wires were earth instead of 2 and 1 power; no ignition current/ power was available for the remaining 2 wires. Please, what should I do to start the car?

Good afternoon everyone:)

Do you guys trust the "reading RPM gauge method" while cranking as a quick Crankshaft sensor check?.....I know it doesn't work with all manufacturers.

If i unplugged the camshaft sensor then someone started the car would the computer think it was on open circuit

question if there were 3 teeth worn down say, 1/8 in on wheel would the scope show missing SQ.WAVE on them teeth!

Good Evening Go Tech Ryan Wilsing Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us My Mentor Go Tech Ryan Wilsing From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 18:06pm

My 4g 64 engine can't crank

Where's Mike ? you didn't lose him did you ? lol

So from what’s said here you can’t test because who is going to have a lab scope? If testing with a multimeter cannot confirm that the sensor is faulty then this video won’t assist the home mechanic - what’s the point then?

Never replace a cam or crankshaft position senor with an aftermarket brand. They usually don't work. I know, I had an Altima with no start symptom. Changed sensor with aftermarket. Still no spark. Probably ECM, because wires and connector were good. Nope..... another bad senor. Pay more money and buy the oem.

Another informative video.thanks for sharing.whens part 2 of can bus coming out.thanks again.