Laguna Fusion F2 Table Saw Unboxing and Deep Dive Examination 

@@ToolMetrix Funny thing I noticed while gathering info on the laguna saws, as they are now available in europe. This is a bot. I have seen this exact comment in literally every video on the fusion saws.

Wow that is interesting! Thanks for the heads up.

Thanks so much!

Awesome, Josh. Enjoy your new saw!

Hi Tom, Glad I could help! Let me know what you think when you get it.

Thanks, Bill. I appreciate your feedback. Cheers, Paul

Thanks 🙏!

Thanks for sharing your feedback. Cheers, Paul

Thanks 🙏!

Hi Jeff, thanks. Yeah, the Unifence was definitely misunderstood. When I bought my Unisaw in the 90s I had the option of Biesemeyer or Unifence, and I went Biesemeyer without doing much homework. It wasn't until I used the F2 that I regretted my decision on the Unisaw fence. I appreciate the feedback. Cheers, Paul

Thanks Gary!

Thanks for the feedback. 🙏

Thanks for your feedback! 🙏

Who did you order from? I am seeing alot of sold out from many vendors

Thanks Jim. I’ve been working out. 😉

👍

Thanks Donald.

Thanks Paul. I’m sorry that I missed the built in castors. I had definitely intended to cover that as it’s an important factor when comparing the F1 and F2. It’s a nice feature. Thanks for subscribing and ringing the bell! Cheers, Paul

Thanks Nomad! I appreciate the feedback and the sub. Cheers, Paul

Thanks, Hollis! I appreciate the comment. Happy new year. Paul

Great! I’m looking forward to tearing into that one, hopefully next month. I saw one and it looked pretty sweet.

Great point PF. It’s definitely a beautiful tool. Looks like a BMW.

Thanks for your feedback, Glen. Cheers, Paul

My pleasure. Thanks for watching, RJ. Cheers, Paul

Thanks for watching, Angelo! Cheers, Paul

thanks, Michael. Cheers, Paul

Thanks Jim! 🙏

Thanks Michael!

You deserve it my friend. Please check out my facebook group. Middle Tennessee Woodworking for fun! Would be glad to have you, and you can put any video doing with woodworking in there. Even advertise anything to do with woodworking or your channel. You don’t have to be from Tn. LOL! God Bless...

Thanks, Michael. I just applied to the group. Cheers, Paul

ToolMetrix Are you coming in under toolmetrix or Paul? I don’t see your request.

Thanks for watching, and for sharing your feedback, Gregg. Please let me know which way you end up going, and what the deciding factor was. Cheers, Paul

@@ToolMetrix I will gladly get back to you on that. There is another woodworker here on RU-vid who just couldn't justify paying trice as much for the SawStop. I am beginning to agree with that point of view. I absolutely love that Fusion 2 fence system!

@@gregghernandez2714 did you end up choosing one over the other? If so, I’d love to hear your rationale. I’m looking at the sawstop compact saw or this.

I did the same . Saw comes in the morning and is the only new saw I have ever owned. Better late than never !

Sorry I’m a couple years late to the party. I’m looking at the F2, the Harvey Alpha, or a SawStop if I can find a deal. I really don’t want to spend more than $2500, so…. F2 or Harvey? How is the power of the F2? Seemed fine I’m this video, but other reviews have said it’s lacking. Thoughts?

Great to hear. Thanks, Corey. Cheers, Paul

Interesting. Thanks for the perspective. I wasn’t aware of the History on this.

F2 also has caste iron top wings

Hi Anthony, Thanks for your feedback. It's easy to remove and replace the table on the F2. I'd say that you can probably go from the top being removed to it being fully installed and dialed in for square in about 30-40 minutes. I would not have any hesitations in removing the table on the F2. It's trickier on the F1, but no problem on the F2.

Norm Abram was the best! One of my great inspirations. I’ve tried a lot of different coatings on cast iron surfaces but haven’t found one that is both slick and prevents rust.

The F2 has wheels preinstalled. They work great. I didn’t try wiring for 220. It works fine under heavy load on a 20 amp 110 so I would not bother.

Sawstop will run you about another 1,000 for a saw. Don't get me wrong, I love my Laguna table saw. It's in the best saw for the price out there.

Thanks for the suggestion. I would like to get a SawStop in my shop for a Deep Dive Exam.

I liked this review even tho I own a sawstop pro cabinet saw, I still like to keep up with new tools. I think outside the safety they run a close pair

Shop Nation just did a review on Sawstop v Laguna Fusion F2

That's an interesting perspective in the price point. I wasn't aware the Grizzly and Sawstop weren't over there. They are heavily penetrated over here. Really surprising to me. Who are the table saw leaders over there? Also, I wonder if the incorporation of the European style fence system is specifically to gain traction in Europe. After spending some time with one on this saw, I'm really puzzled why this is not the world-wide standard fence design. It's better in many respects, and I really can't think of a downside. I remember seeing this fence style as an option when I bought my Unisaw 20 years ago. If I would have taken the time to understand it better, I would have chosen it over the style that I have.

@@ToolMetrix Most of the saws in Europe are sliding table design. Not a after thought , but designed as a slider. The major saws are Felder, it's lower price point brand Hammer, and Axminster has there own brand of saws. Felder is $7,000 and Hammer is $5,000 , that's why it's a very smart move for Laguna to enter the European market.

Thanks Martino. Maybe hold a retirement party for your Craftsman saw. 😃

@@ToolMetrix I think it's retirement party will just be getting rained on if nobody buys it first..

Jay, the add on kit will be available in a couple of months, you can give us a call. Thanks!

Awesome. Thanks!

Interesting. I've never heard of that brand. I can't even find the manufacturer's web site. I see them sold by a Canadian dealer KMS. Maybe their house brand? Yeah, I think the idea is that you can turn it off with your knee in a panic situation. Hopefully that doesn't happen too many times. :)

Thanks. Good suggestion.

Yep, I didn’t have any problems with it running on a 20 amp circuit.

Hi Paul, sorry that I missed this previously. Yes, I'd rather take the top off of an F2 than an F1. I don't have a feel for the relative weights of the components when the top is removed, but my hunch is that the two pieces both become pretty manageable for two people when they are separated from one another.

Hi Rick, thanks for your feedback. I'm glad that you found the video useful. I can't think of any spare parts that you should order, and it sounds like you are getting a nice setup right away. If you don't already have one I'd consider making or buying a crosscut sled or at least a panel cutting sled for your saw. Those are very nice. Best of luck and enjoy your new saw!

I ran the F2 on a 110V 20 amp circuit with no problems at all. Amperage draw as shown in the video was 19 amps with that piece of thick oak. Decibel level was just a bit lower than the F1 as I recall but I don’t have the number.

I did not have any issues with the fence, but I do not recall doing that specific test. I do not believe that they would upgrade just the fence as the saws are boxed as complete kits from the factory.

Hi Ed, sorry but the saws are no longer in my shop. I’d suggest calling Laguna or one of their dealers and asking them for this information. Cheers, Paul

Hi James, thanks for the feedback. Yep, it’s easy to remove the wings and the table top on the F2. The wings have some goop holding them on so you have to give each wing a smack after the bolts are removed. Not a big deal. And as long as you have a good straight edge you can easily get the wings installed flush with the main saw top. I actually got the wings installed a bit flatter than the factory when I removed them and reinstalled them.

@@ToolMetrix That's great Paul. I think I'm ready to pull the trigger. Big thanx!

Thanks for sharing your feedback. Cheers

Thanks. I think it's attached to the base on the F2 using 3 bolts if I remember correctly. The manual will show whether it's 3 or 4. The top is 3 pieces, and will be easy to haul downstairs if you take it apart.

@@ToolMetrix Thanks for the information. I appreciate it.

Nothing else was really needed to remove it. It came off super easily. But I wiped it down with mineral spirits just to be sure that all the residue was gone.

You can do it later, but ask Laguna about what you will need.

Hi Randy, Thanks for your feedback. I would never try to talk anyone out of a more powerful saw. That said, the F2 is a great quality tool and I think it's a good choice for a serious hobbyist. It can do anything that the F3 can do, but the F3 can do it faster. I'm guessing that you might have to tune the F2 more than the F3, but since it's such a low vibration saw I don't expect that you'll have to make adjustments very often if you leave it in place. So, the question as to whether it's worth it to you is impossible for me to answer. Hopefully through the videos I've conveyed enough about the differences to help you make a good choice. Either way, enjoy your new saw, and have a blast making furniture!

Cost to buy Laguna 2 tablesaw

1800 at Rockler now

Thanks for the suggestion. It came apart easily and I’d have to disassemble the crate for disposal anyway so for me I don’t know if that would have been better. But if Someone wanted to keep the crate intact that’d be a great approach.

Hi Kelly, thanks for watching and for the nice feedback. Yeah, I still use my old Unisaw. It's not as smooth running as today's saws, and I don't like the 3 belt system very much, but other than that I love the saw. Part of the reason that I love it is nostalgic, because it is the same saw that Norm Abram used in the final seasons of New Yankee Workshop. :) The dust collection on my Unisaw is horrible. It's basically a hole in the back of the saw, and nothing more. That said, I removed the 4" port, and I run 6" to the saw with lots of CFM, and the inside of the cabinet stays remarkably clean. But the approach that is used by modern saws such as Laguna, Saw Stop and others, where the duct is extended through the inside of the cabinet to a shroud around the blade, is far superior. It allows you to get good collection with less CFM. That said, if I were to keep an F2 in my shop I would upgrade the 2.5" hose inside the saw and run 4", which would allow much better air movement and keep things cleaner inside the saw. And I would replace the 1.5" hose up top with a 2.5" for the same reason. The out-of-the-box setup is fine, but if you have a large dust collector like mine you want to open things up on the saw to take advantage of it. You're right, the Unifence is also a hi-low fence design, but I don't think they were the first ones. I could be wrong about that concept coming out of Europe, but that has been my impression. When I bought my Unisaw in the 90s I had the option of getting it with either a Biesemeyer or a Unifence, and I didn't do enough homework before making the decision. In retrospect I wish that I had gotten the Unifence, but I like the Biesemeyer fine. And you're right about the sneaky costs of upgrading a table saw, and at some point it makes sense to just upgrade the entire saw. But I really like the older Delta contractor saws. Great build quality, plenty of power, etc. Dust collection is tricky with them but other than that they are really nice. Cheers, Paul

@@ToolMetrix Hi Paul, thanks for your reply! Of course, FWIW, your Delta Unisaw and my old Contractor's saw were made in the USA! :-). I enclosed the back on my Contractor's saw which has helped some with dust extraction. Did you ever try to dust port on the Shark Guard? Dust thrown forward is the biggest problems with my saw. I wonder is the Shark Guard helps with that? I'm kind of curious, I see some resemblance between the Laguna machines and similar Harvey models and wonder if there is a relationship. Do you know? Thanks again!

I haven’t tried that yet with the Shark Guard but I think it would help a lot as long as you have at least a 2.5” hose running to the SG. I don’t know if there’s a relationship between the two companies but I doubt it. More likely they use the same manufacturer in Taiwan. You see that a lot with tools.

Hello and thanks for your question. I used my 5 HP Oneida cyclone in this video. The F2 is set up with dust collection that is optimized to give "pretty good collection" with a SMALL dust collector. It has a 4" inlet, and splits that into a 2.5" going to the blade shroud, 1" going to the body of the saw, and 1.5" going to the blade guard. With a 1.5 HP DC, that gives you some collection in all areas, albeit not perfect in any area. Here's what I would do if I was going to keep this saw in a shop environment. If I only had a 1.5 HP -2 HP DC, I would not use the blade guard collection. I'd seal that off. I'd replace the 2.5" internal hose with a 4" hose (and eliminate the 1" hole going into the cabinet) and maximize the collection below the table, and just deal with the minimal amount of dust on top of the table. If I had something larger, 3-5 HP, I would run 6" duct to the back of the saw, reducing to 4" at the main inlet (which I would replace with my own) and running a 4" flexible duct to under-table shroud. From the 6" line I would pull a separate 2.5" branch to the blade guard. This would give you near-perfect dust collection above and below the table. You could even go 4" to the blade board, but that can actually provide too much CFM and actually start pulling small cut-off pieces up into the DC system. 2.5" should be about right. Or, you could go 4" and dial in the right air flow using the blast gate.

@@ToolMetrix I have a garage shop and connect a 2HP dust collector to each tool when I use it. I may have to just see how it works out. Thanks for the great detailed answer. I might need the info.

Hi Bill, the bottom of the cabinet is sealed, so if dust manages to sneak past the shroud, it won't land on the floor. On the older Laguna models I believe that the bottom was open. The easiest way to use this style fence with a jig as you are describing would be to remove the sliding portion of the fence. Otherwise, you could design it to form around the entire fence, including the sliding portion, but it would make the design more complex.

Hi Edward, sorry about the late reply. Mobility is fine, although the wheels aren't super big so you'd want to clear a path before moving it. Some of my tools have larger wheels and I can roll over pretty much anything. Not a major problem, however. I didn't try an Incra on it.

The motor has a brake to slow the blade down when it’s switched off but there’s not a blade brake like you’d find on a sawstop. You would have to do something if you mounted a router. Would be easy enough to build a router table fence that slipped over the stock fence.

You’re welcome. Thanks for watching.

Hi Eugene, I feel good about the feature set and quality of this saw. I wouldn't expect to have to make adjustments to the fence on a regular basis to maintain accuracy. It didn't vary at all while I had it in my shop, although I didn't have it very long. For a comparable saw, you could look at this one from Jet: amzn.to/2KHSuYj. For a bit more money, this PowerMatic would be worth comparing as well: amzn.to/3bNkiGx.

@@ToolMetrix I'm looking to get this saw. Your review was excellent, but I had a question. How come you don't have the Laguna saw any more?

Hi Joe, Thanks for the feedback on the video. Also, thanks for the question; I get that one a lot. I'm a tool reviewer, which means that I need to have a steady stream of new products coming through my shop for evaluation. If I like them overall, I make a video or two. I wish that I could keep them all, but I have a small shop that is getting crowded. I moved out the F1 and F2 after making those videos to make room for the F3. Now the F3 video is posted and the saw is moved out to make room for a DeWalt table saw, and one other. I haven't decided on the brand of #2 yet; I just know that it will be a portable unit so that I can have a point of comparison. The odds of me keeping either of the new portable saws is slim as well. So, you shouldn't interpret the fact that a tool is no longer in my shop as any form of indication that I don't like it. Cheers, Paul

Hi John, I’m a tool reviewer and I look at a lot of tools, and I can’t keep most of them. I only had the F2 in my shop for about a month so I can’t give you any perspective on longevity.

@@ToolMetrix no problem thanks for letting me know.

Hi TBone, I ran the F2 without any problem on a 110V 20amp breaker, and I pushed it pretty hard. To have a 25 amp breaker on a 110V circuit you should have 10 guage wire. I'm guessing that less than 1% of F2s are running on 110V/25 amp circuits. Most are likely running on 110V/20amp circuits, and some are probably running on 220V circuits. I ran all of my tests on the F3 using a 220V/20amp circuit, and didn't have any problems there either.

Hi Matthew, thanks for the feedback. On the dust collection front, I think its tricky for a manufacturer to provide a one size fits all solution, because so much of what makes a perfect configuration depends on how much air flow you can deliver. It's unique to include above table collection, and it's neat that they did that, but in order to get decent collection from both above and below the table, you will need a dust collector that is larger than 400 CFM. If I had just a 400 CFM collector, I would remove the above table collection and focus all of the air flow on the below-table collection. If I had 600 CFM, I'd use both upper and lower collection. With 800 CFM I'd expand the internal ducting to 4", all the way from the outside of the cabinet to the blade shroud. And if I had 1000 CFM I'd expand the upper dust collector hose from 1.5" to 2.5" and I believe it would get much better collection. And just to be clear, I'm not talking about the theoretical maximum of the dust collector, I'm talking about the actual air flow at the connection to the tool. In that price range I'd also consider a SawStop contractor saw, or stretch your budget a little bit to a SawStop Professional 1.75 HP. No question that is a more expensive saw, but the safety feature is nice and quality is good. I think the fence on the F2 is a huge winner. Functionality wise there's not a fence on a table saw in this class that I like as well. Quality wise, I'd say that this fence is comparable to the SawStop Professional or the Jet ProShop.

ToolMetrix This is exactly why I am such a big fan... informative and very helpful. Thank you! I am costing out a Contractor SawStop with the upgraded fence.... yes a bit more $$... I may go this route and just forego the stellar dust collection for the time being. Thanks again! And good job.

The blade guard is fine but you need to swap out the riving knife for thin kerf blades.

Hi Gerry, yes in my testing the fence was dead on at any location and it locked down solidly so it held the accurate position over multiple cuts.

@@ToolMetrix That's great! I'm going to place an order for this saw. Thanks!

Thanks Dan. It doesn’t feel underpowered for occasional cutting of 8/4, when using a thin kerf blade. If you are cutting a lot of that stuff every day you will want more HP.

Thank you. Just cutting boards which I only do one at a time. So thick stock ripping only a couple times a month. Buying the F2 after the holidays!

Hi Jim, unfortunately it’s been a couple years and I don’t remember.

I removed the wings and filed off the factory goop that was in the joint, and deburred the surfaces. After doing that everything went together nicely and the top was flat.

Hi John, Yeah, I get your point. If you pulled off the sliding piece and the mounting hardware, you could attach panels to the side and have effectively what you want.

No problem. Just remove the dust hose from the shroud underneath the blade and don’t install the panel at the bottom of the saw cabinet. If you do those things you should be fine.

HaHaHa! 😃 thanks Richard.

You'll want to confirm this but I believe that on the F2 you could use the fence on the left of the blade by removing the screws that fasten the euro fence. It would be a pain to do this if you did it frequently, but if it was a once or twice a year thing, probably no big deal. If it works the way I'm remember, no, it wouldn't bother me because in 25 years of woodworking I have maybe used the fence on the left 1-2 times, and that was back when I had a saw with a right tilt blade. I don't know if I've ever used my current saw that way, and I've owned that since the late 90s. I think the way that I'd probably attach a sacrificial fence would be to drill screw holes through the Euro fence and attach by just running screws through there. Simple and quick. Jigs would be different. I think I would make a tenon jig, for example, to ride on the upright of the Euro fence. If that worked, it would be super easy. And I think it would work fine. I like the design of your current fence. That's a thoughtful design.

@@ToolMetrix Thanks for the thoughtful reply; I suppose there will be a way to make a jig fit... Same here, I move the fence to the left side maybe once a year.

Yeah, hard pipe would be better for sure. 2.5” while you’re at it. I haven’t looked at third party mobile bases much but I think you can find one that doesn’t add much height.

@@ToolMetrix Thank you for the quick reply. I have been looking at this saw or the Powermatic PM1000. The only requirement I have is the mobility. I need it to roll around without lifting it, so I'll weld up a mobile base if I have to.

Sorry; I’m not sure about that. Might have to give Laguna customer support a call.

I just removed the bolts and walked it off the pallet. Yep, I did it by myself. No problem at all.

I wouldn't see any reason why it couldn't. I would suggest providing some supports underneath the table where the router will be mounted to avoid sagging, but other than that, I think it should be great.

Hi John, thanks for your question. The F2 is set up with dust collection that is optimized to give "pretty good collection" with a SMALL dust collector. It has a 4" inlet, and splits that into a 2.5" going to the blade shroud, 1" going to the body of the saw, and 1.5" going to the blade guard. With a 1.5 HP DC, that gives you some collection in all areas, albeit not perfect in any area. Here's what I would do if I was going to keep this saw in a shop environment. If I only had a 1.5 HP -2 HP DC, I would not use the blade guard collection. I'd seal that off. I'd replace the 2.5" internal hose with a 4" hose (and eliminate the 1" hole going into the cabinet) and maximize the collection below the table, and just deal with the minimal amount of dust on top of the table. If I had something larger, 3-5 HP, I would run 6" duct to the back of the saw, reducing to 4" at the main inlet (which I would replace with my own) and running a 4" flexible duct to under-table shroud. From the 6" line I would pull a separate 2.5" branch to the blade guard. This would give you near-perfect dust collection above and below the table. You could even go 4" to the blade board, but that can actually provide too much CFM and actually start pulling small cut-off pieces up into the DC system. 2.5" should be about right. Or, you could go 4" and dial in the right air flow using the blast gate. Cheers, Paul

Thanks for weighing in on this. Cheers, Paul

@@ToolMetrix I sincerely hope I’m wrong about this. Thanks for the overview of the saw!

Yeah, the fence is solid and stayed accurate. It's a standout feature on this saw, IMO. No tapping necessary, just lock and go. Nice motorcycle btw.

@@ToolMetrix okay well that's a little more reassuring hearing that. Thanks.

Hi Walter, thanks for the feedback. I only tested the amperage draw on a thick piece of oak (approx 2"). Thinner or softer wood should be less stressful on the motor. It hit 19 amps when ripping the thick oak. I did a lot of ripping and cross cutting of all sorts of materials and never blew the 110V 20amp breaker. Nothing else was running on the circuit. So, my experience suggests at a 110/20 amp circuit is fine. That said, not all circuits are created equal, so I hope that I don't lead you astray. But the material that you are describing is a lot less likely to cause problems than the thick oak I was testing with.

Thanks for sharing that, Powel. That’s interesting. Wonder why? I’m really looking forward to trying the F3 out.

ToolMetrix i really don’t get it Why. I would really want to pay more but have the F3US fence And rail. How do You feel about the f2 fence - is it sturdy enough? Is the rail straight? It’s made with aluminum?

@@paweg1157 I loved the fence on the F2. I haven't had a chance to play with the fence on the F3, but I would say that the F2 fence is better than anything in it's class. The fence frame is made of steel. The removable/flippable side piece is made of aluminum. The one that I had in my shop was perfect flat and straight, as were the aluminum rails. As to whether it is sturdy enough, for my shop and any hobbyist shop, I say yes. I wouldn't have any reservations about the F2 as a primary table saw for my needs. For a multi-user maker space or production shop, I'd say probably so, but it's tough to speculate. Some environments can be very tough on tools and aluminum is aluminum.

On this style saw the blade aligned to the miter slot by loosening the bolts that attach the table to the saw cabinet. On the F2 I believe that there are 4 bolts; one in each corner. Loosen three of them completely, and one of them just barely loosen it. Then tap the table into position and tighten everything down. It's a very easy adjustment on the F2. In this video, you can see where the bolt holes are on the portion of the video where I have the top removed.

Yep. Has an optional dado insert and supports up to a 3/4” dado.

ToolMetrix thank you so much 🌹☺️

I didn’t find any concerns about the fence. I think this aspect of the F3 fence is a pretty common for a cabinet saw fence. It’s the same in that respect as the Biesemeyer fence on my unisaw.

Thank you

@@ToolMetrix thank you

Hi Jonathan, Unfortunately I've been hearing that a lot over the last couple weeks. It's a popular saw. I've gotta believe that they have more on the way, but I haven't heard any ETA.

It’s pretty easy on the F2 as I recall.

@@ToolMetrix ok, sounds good. any Idea how much the machine body weights withour the table?

Don’t know but it should be manageable for 2 healthy men. Web says shipping weight for F2 is 265. Subtract some for pallet, and the top, rails, hand wheels, and everything else you can carry separately must weigh 100ish (wild guess), im guessing that you will be carrying 130-150 pounds. Easy peasy.

Hi Jon, those are good comparables. What are you basing your assessment and ultimately your selection on?

ToolMetrix best bang for buck. Grizzly ran a sale so I got one to the house for $1300. I liked the full cabinet and steel rails vs the aluminum rails on the fusion. I’m waiting on shipment now

Hi Stan, it's generally preferred for stationary saws and other woodworking equipment due to its resistance to flexing, flatness and added stability from its weight. You can certainly produce great results using a saw that has stamped steel wings, however.

Well, that's a brand new saw. But my main table saw is 25 years old. In my previous garage shop, rust was a constant battle. I tried many different products and nothing prevented it. The only thing that worked was to cover it with a tarp when I wasn't using it, and that worked perfectly. To remove rust I use 0000 steel wool and WD40. The coat it with car wax. Some people will warn you against car wax because it can mess with wood finish, but I've never had any problem as long as remove the car wax before you use the saw. :) But the wax itself offers very little resistance against rust.

@@ToolMetrix I’ve been using WD-40 to clean it… who knew

Hi Harry, it wasn’t a problem at all. Just wiped it off with a dry paper towel, then one dampened with mineral spirits, then one more dry one. Done in 2 minutes.

@@ToolMetrix Kewl I live in Arizona so it'll evaporate before I get it...LOL

🤣

Laguna recommends WD-40 on their bandsaws (i just picked up a 1412) I used it and it worked great.

I’m hoping to get one in here. I’m not certain but optimistic.

ToolMetrix thank you! I really love and enjoy your videos!! Keep up the great work!!

I didn't try it because I never cut from the left of the blade, but it should be easy. The fence lifts off the saw easily. You would just want to remove the three wing nuts from the right side of the fence that hold the sliding fence in place.

As mentioned in an earlier reply this fence is similar to the old Delta Unifence. I've used that fence since 1985 and almost always in the low profile/ layed down position which allows room for your right hand to be further from blade when pushing thru a rip cut. The Unifence can be mounted on either side of the sliding t- frame for left of blade rips and for extension table router guiding. Is the Laguna fence able to mount only on the left side? Thanks for the informative review. I'll subscribe and also look if you have reviewed Laguna's joiners

Thanks Rick. Those unifences are awesome and I’ve heard they are hard to find and worth a lot of money these days. I’m hoping to get my hands on one of the new redesigned jointers from Laguna later this year.

With a high quality blade the cut quality is outstanding.

Hi John, I don’t blame you. I’m pretty accustomed to my Biesemeyer fence after all these years. I don’t think that they offer that as an option but you can ask Laguna.

@@ToolMetrix As a matter of fact, I did. A suggested video by Laguna came up and I watched it and then asked the question. Thank you. I've been saving up for a new saw and I like the F2, except for the fence.

Yes it is.

I’m not sure if you can swap the riving knife in the guard to use the thin kerf. I didn’t attempt it and I no longer have the saw in my shop.

I used it on a dedicated 20 amp circuit without having a problem. I’m not sure why they state a 25 amp requirement. Circuit breakers vary in their trip point which might be one reason. It also depends upon how hard you push the saw although I pushed it pretty hard.

@@ToolMetrix okay thank you very much

@@ToolMetrix would you say the saw is worth the purchase?

It's an impressive saw, and I believe that they priced it about right. Watch for the 10% off sales if you can, because they seem to come around periodically.

A lot of the tools that I get, including these table saws, are here for a short time so I don’t contact them much for support. But I’d suggest checking out the Laguna Woodworking group on Facebook as there’s lots of discussion there.

@@ToolMetrix thank you😊

Lmao! I’m feeling the love, guys! 🤣. Most kids grew up dreaming about being professional athletes or movie stars. I just wanted to play with new power tools...

@@ToolMetrix Me too. My dad said"learn your hand tools first, you'll make smaller mistakes!"

That’s great advice. Too late for me but I’ll pass along to my kids. 😄

Good to know. Thanks for sharing.

Circuit breakers are really only designed to handle 80% of the face value load. So 16amps full time won’t hurt a 20 amp circuit. If you go beyond that it will trip with a constant amp draw it will trip. That’s why they recommend 25 amps

@@aaronthehandyman7714 really no such thing as a 25 amp 120 amp circuit. Common outlets are rated to a max of 20A. I guess you could wire those circuits with 10 gauge wire and use a 25 amp breaker, but you'd have to cheat on the outlet, or find an industrial 30A one and rewire the tool.

@@scharkalvin absolutely correct. Although once you change the cord cap you technically void any warranty’s.

Lighter for portability and probably lower manufacturing and shipping costs to keep the price point down on the lower end model.

I didn't try that, TJ, but I have done it on a similar saw and it worked really well.