Laird is so much more than a surfer dude, he’s such an aware astute smart man and even though he has taken wild chances in the surfing industry he’s always been alert and respectful of his surroundings. My hats off to this interview Rich!
Gotta love Laird! As an annual fan of the ironman championships, one year i got to be on the boat signifying the turn around point for the swim. Laird was on a paddleboard in waterman mode and so sweetly and diligently allowing the senior silver cap participants to hang onto his board and catch their breath.
The thing I always love about Laird is how wide open he is with everything..... Including his laugh. Always feel like his extreme physical conditioning certainly keeps his mind jacked up as well. Thanks Laird for the example of how to be a good and proper wild man!!!
Since its christmas , I have to share these few stories - I am a person who has been following Mr and Mrs Hamilton over the years , my daughter is a big wave surfer and I hired Derrick Doerner to coach her for 6 weeks when she had the dream of going to nursing school ... ha ha , not , when she had the dream of being a serious surfer . So instead of college , she went to Oahu and got an extremely appropriate and informative introduction to the waves of the seven mile miracle . She is now actually living the dream , she helped them get the Queen Of the Bay Red Bull event going , and its going on right now . She and my grandaughter ( In Utero ) were in the final edition of Surfer Mag in an article about women who feel serious about their relationship with the ocean . -- So I do art , photography music , and am a bit of an observer . Once in Oahu , there was this couple living in their van , and the van was just so supremely artistic . I stopped and photographed them , they were like , a rolling museum of North Shore History . They had some puka sunrise shell necklaces , and she told me a story ... when they would look for the shells , other people would steal them , so she would put the sunrise shells in her mouth , when she was out shelling . So there was a photographer from the local Honolulu newspaper and he went to take a photo of her , and she smiled , and it was a sunrise shell smile . So then she opened the van door . I promise this story is worth reading ... so in the van , is a flat screen TV on the side wall , and on the TV is pasted a photograph across the whole screen , of Laird Hamilton riding a giant wave . And she smiled at me and said " I used to babysit for him sometimes " and you could feel the aloha pouring out . SO that story said , now I am in Kauai , and its christmas time , and I am a christmas tree freak . In fact , that was the time when I learned that the tree is the representation of the enlightenment experience , like all the chakras going off till the star lights up ... because there was an orchid , yellow with rust colored leopard spots , and it had a branch that shot up that was the 2-D shape of a x mas tree , and it bloomed from the lower longer branches , up to the tip at the top , day by day . So , I was like " OH " cause i have loved x mas trees my whole life . So , it being x mas , at the home depot in Kauai , there is an outdoor space where they have the trees for sale . I happened to be going into Home Depot , more about that , one armed jack and his genius solution for reducing the mosquito population , ... and there he is . Mr Hamilton . But its not like a person walking on the ground . He actually surfs stable ground as if his is flying around in water . He is jumping over his truck bed , landing on the ground , runs into the stack of trees , grabs one - and sort of tosses it into his truck and pays and goes , and all this happened in about 3 seconds . Now , me , going to the tree farm with the fam , the dog comes , we got hot chocolate , we stand around and decided ... I would take 2 hours all together . Why am I telling this story ? Because this man does everything differently . I have seen this in other men also , they are somehow faster . Like they are in a different time field . Listening to Mr Hamilton talk on this show , is interesting but watching his visual focus and movements is really more helpful to learn from his energy picture . He focuses his eyes , and his body moves , but the eyes do not move . That is why I told the story about the tree . How did he get on that giant wave ? He kept the eyes focused on the beauty , and the body moves as it will . We are really blessed by these masters when they share their inner process with the rest of us .
"It's like parenting- you can SAY whatever you want, but they (your kids) are just watching what you're DOING."-Laird... Wow. So true!! That one got me. Important to remember for those of us who are parents. 💜
Laird Hamilton is genuinely not a pleasure to be with in the water. Mainly cause he is a complete snake and has no regard to other people in the line up.
So true about the islands. I've lived part of my childhood there, then a year on Kauai and most of my adult life on Hawaii Island. To survive and thrive just like the ocean theres no simply turning your back on the diversity of cultures and the mystical side of belief systems. Not to fabricate but ive had many an unexplained experience. Ive also witnessed what seems like the islands themselves chew people up and spit them back to the mainland. Maybe even having that thought and writing it down goes a bit far and steps on toes made of lava. There's a level of respect to stay within ambient good graces.
I think one's aura (influenced by past actions, intent of future actions, and demeanor) they radiate is more noticeable and plays a larger role in how Hawaii treats you. Being made up of small isolated islands, there's very little room to run and hide from misdeeds and burned bridges especially on the less populated islands like Kauai where news spreads very fast among the 80,000 or so residents. The much larger population of Oahu may provide one with some buffer against misdeeds, but they still catch up with them quickly. Some outsiders may think the Kama'aina (people of the land of Hawaii) are superstitious, backwards, or 'wrong' in some manner and go stubbornly go against the grain of the culture. It could be something seemingly insignificant like constantly mispronouncing words or insistence on eschewing local vernacular. Or it could be something major like exerting dominance like you own the place (like Mark Zuckerberg trying to sue and force Hawaiians to sell their inherited land on Kauai) or not exercising proper etiquette in a surf lineup. Local residents will take notice and make life more unpleasant often to the point of being driven back to the mainland. Then there's the consequences of not respecting the mana (spiritual energy) of the islands...
@@jzen1455 Are the people mean to outsiders? I've been to Oahu three times and I loved it there, but it's too pricey. I think everybody should try to fit into the culture they are visiting or living in, but if there is an intolerance like 'always an outside" even if you've been there twenty years then that is a different thing. Is that how it is? You can never be accepted?
@@gibememoni It's all about eating healthy and taking care of the body, i know plenty of people who work hard and still manage to look young, while some people are packed with money and living an unhealthy lifestyle and looking old
Laird is 100% confident. not an insecure thought in his head His Goal Ride the biggest wave ever surfed in History 100 foot + Another goal he fulfilled! He knew the guy was killed at Teahupoo ( local, who died after being slammed into the reef in 2000)and to make it right for him he went out and took on that terrifying beast and destroyed it to take the fear of that place out of the minds of future surfers. A great Role Model of a Man ! Just be the best man you can be, the way God made you to be. ( Message to self)
Laird is such a soft-spoken and humble guy for an AWESOME greek god of an alpha male, for which he is known in the sporting world. But humility is always the REAL MARK of the greats among us. It is the INSECURE and the NARCISSISTIC among us who are always arrogant and proud. God bless us all.
his understanding of metaphysics without actually knowing the concepts of them as a human simply chasing desires is very legit. He most def evolving in a great way
I am glad you guys got to surf your dream. I grew up in the era of Shaun and Mike Thomson in Africa and through countless attempts to join the surfing championships, e.g. Gunston 500, etc we were as woman blocked. Refused entry. I loved the water and could make my board speak on the waves, plus I was an ace swimmer. Sadly the men of this age have not apologised or even tried to make things right for the older woman who lost out. Who knows, maybe one day there will be a competition where one day the older woman will not be scorned at and given the same money and opportunities to surf again. When I see you I am grateful for that resistance as I have learnt so much. I am grateful for you all as every time I hear you have done something even more awesome on the waves, I am deeply happy for you and wish you everything of the best. This to me was a magnificent sport and is today. Go from strength to strength.
My time in Hawaii was the best time of my life. Army stationed at Scofield, Derussy, PTA, Barking Sands and Kahoolawe. Flying over the Pacific in a UH-1, landing on Molokai and bringing the kids on the Leper Colony Christmas gifts brings a smile to my face. Oh yes I rode Waimea at 25 feet. Now it's just NJ with palm trees.
I grew up with Billy and David in South Laguna. That's Laird's dad and uncle! Billy was THE most stylish surfer, possibly ever! So many sessions at Oak St. during High School.
Wow! That's it. This is the Rich Roll interview that finally made my TV redundant! In this sea of pandem-onium, these wise old dudes are the cure for so much brain ache. Respect to you Rich for bringing out so many pearls from Laird. There's a purity to his wisdom that is truly beautiful. Perhaps it originates from free-spirited karma of his symbiosis with the ocean vibe. I live in another universe to his world. Sadly. But both my wife and I said, should we jump on a plane and get a hit of the island lore that creates such a vital soul. I'm really grateful. The warmth of this conversation permeates the bleak British winter. Authenticity wins. Honesty shines. Peace on Purpose! #gratitude #onelove 🙏🏻
GET ON THAT PLANE, DUNCAN, and go to Iao Valley, Ho'okipa, Honolua, and check out all the beautiful sunsets and sunrises, and you will feel your own vital soul flourishing. I am moving from Maui to Scotland, so I may see you in the UK! I love your comment: "The warmth of this conversation permeates the bleak British winter." I plan to bring Aloha to The UK, since I designed a 260-acre Regenerative Farming Community on Maui for 4 years, and lived 15 years in Permaculture --- and y'all would be inspired to eat real, local, amazing artisanal foods in vibrant, connected, loving community! I intend to grow this healthy, joyful. humble, grounded vibe across The UK, + Ireland! Aloha, Claire, Founder of The Orkney Permaculture Network, OPN since 2016.
Do you know what,@@claireandersongrahamkeller2744 I'm seriously thinking about it! My wife lost her job last week, and we're kind of 'free'. Only barrier is the 22 hours in a metal tube with coronavirus! Thanks for the enthusiasm. I see your point 🙏🏻
@@DuncanBolam wife and I just made the trip. There’s never been a better time to go. Airports are cleaner and sparsely populated. The destination is well worth the trip.
Sadly,@@jasondolan8888in these surreal times, it's not looking like Brits can fly... The flight-times surprisingly quick, direct 17 hrs from London. Only snag, we're lock-down tighter than a drum!
The energy in the islands is very special & has its own energy... I've been living in an island in the Med call Ibiza for the past 25 yrs 🌟🌈🌟came out here straight from USA.... Thank you to both for an awesome conversation
Was it a big transition for you? Is it more difficult to find jobs/career on an island? Does it ever feel too small of a community? Ibiza looks beautiful.
Man, that story of Don reminds me of my buddy Jacques DuVol, who was a Korean War vet too, worked for JFK, had a helicopter business in South Africa that was shot down by locals, but ended up spending a half century directly in front of the Moana Surfrider at Waikiki. I surfed with the guy out at Pops all through his 70s. He surfed 3 times a day. I got his suicide letter at 87 years old. His prostate cancer got unbearable. He always told me he’d take acid and paddle out from Kewalos, but he was so broken by cancer he had to shoot himself on the rocks instead. The Navy gave me his flag. I think as a 20 something kid then, this 70 year old surfer left a major impression upon me, more so than many others. God bless the Korean War vets.
We used my dads 14 foot boat a couple of times as a tow surf to ride 6 ft close outs in 83 then we put my dads boat up on the rocks then we had to pay to fix it and we had to cancel a trip to Bali.
Thanks Rich & Laird for a nice conversation. 😁 I totally enjoyed the part when Laird talked about Donahue. They are both such a big adventurers, lovers of life who never stops exploring and trying new stuff. I love Dons quote: ‘’The moment you stop moving, it’s all over!’’
Interesting conversation. Laird seems honest, genuine and balanced. No need to inject vulgar language and hipster wannabe f-bombs in his speech as his self confidence doesn't require it
Laird,ànd interviewer , listening 2 the pod , interesting just lost the hook up , possibly. ,this messàge will get thru ,in a wtf situation, pissed off the Malibu sheriff s my situation is like I mentioned,thanks for sharing , feel like an old fool
Chuckling over Laird's suggestion that people scare themselves now and then. I was great friends with Cary Loftin, guru granddaddy of motion picture stunt drivers (Bullitt, et al). He was a proponent of that idea as well. Whenever he could, he used to drive by himself from CA to FL for the Daytona 500 (he loved that race and came out of retirement to drive a race car in the movie "Days of Thunder" when he was in his later 70s). When he got too tired to drive while out in the middle of nowhere in the middle of the night an empty two-laner, he would throw his car into spin at speed and scare the ever living daylights out of himself! Wide awake again for another couple of hours.
I've been purchasing the 'Laird Superfood (coffee) Creamer' for a few months and have a bag of the coffee scheduled to deliver today....good timing for this episode :)
Aloha Laird, I used to visit my brother back when you and your family lived at Pupukea, late 60's+. He lived in front, and lived in your house when you moved to Kauai, 71'. I was so lucky to meet and share waves with Billy and the KeNui heros, and meet you as a youngster, before your journey through life. I recently watched Jerry's ying/yang movie, and you both seem to have found Nirvana in similar ways. You mentioned a session with some buddies without much interference, and that was how I felt Pupukea was like for me. Never lock doors, recognizing who's at someone's house by their sandals, stuff lidat eh. Summer v-ball in front brought the neighborhood together. Your quite mellow and informative, and it's a pleasure to listen and absorb your experiences. Hi to the family, hope to sample all Gabby and your healthy eats. Papaya in any? ....Ron
Hey Rich, would you consider having Scott Jurek on the podcast? I feel like he has an incredible stories to tell, especially being an early figure in the plant based and ultra community
To me, he stands alone as the greatest surfer ever. What makes it even more impressive, he was way too big tall to compete in the small wave competitions where guys like Kelly Slater dominate at 5'8". I'm 6'3" and I've been told I'm too tall to surf on small waves, and its true. Laird ignored convention and made his own style, a style that fit his body and in doing so surpassed the so-called greats of competition surfing.
At 30:00, in the midst of their talk on comfort vs danger, I actually became a little defensive, I like my safety because I know what it's like to lose it. And it sucked. Losing it doesn't mean dying, you could lose it and have to live in it. I always tell people I'm not afraid of dying, but I'm afraid of being maimed. Having said that I envy their free form spirits, I wish I could capture that without feeling like I'm being thrown off a cliff.
Rich Roll said on the description "This is a rumination on what makes us human-and a call to pursue adventure" "If we all care about another human as much as we care about animals, then no one would have to live under North Korean oppression. But somehow humanity is such weird thing that's why I keep thinking about what it means to be a human. We should look into what's wrong with us like we care about so many other things and not care about another human being. " Yeonmi Park, North Korean defector and human rights advocate. UN described North Korea as a modern day holocaust and awareness of this must be spread in order to help save North Koreans.
I've been a fan of laired for about a year now. I'm 64 and I'm not a surfer but I love his outlook on life so why not do it anyway screw age. I don't mean surfing I mean everything.
There is something to be said about deep diving into your passion and applying the knowledge learned to EVERYTHING you do. His applied knowledge is intimidating but also inspiring.
Hey little Ripper myself and Clancy aka: Captain Zodiac took you to tunnels surf sessions on Kauai when you were 13 years old! I knew you were destined for greatness! Page
Great episode!! Thanks guys! Interesting that Laird's kids are not so much into the workouts and such. Your children bring into your life the parts of you, you don't like about yourself. The more extreme your trait, the wilder this may turn out to be. Maybe you don't let yourself rest or be lazy enough, Laird, and that is what they bring into your life - for balance! The 'devil child' is mostly the true angel for a parent when perceived from the right angle.
Amazing conversation, Rich so perfectly prepared, yet totally natural, and Laird honest, open and inspiring. I had to pause few times, just to write down some words of wisdom. Thank You & Aloha :)
Rich and Laird thank you guys for an amazing talk about life. Rich this is the first time listening and I definitely dig your show. Laird, been following you for a while and enjoyed seeing the inspiration coming from your story. Really appreciate your guys energy!!!
31:43 - Damn, that part was good. Huge irony. 36:45 - Another biggie - "be good with saying no" - or knowing when to turn back... 1:35:35 - Relationship as cold war. I love it! Now that's honesty. Gotta love this guy. 1:58:15 - Plant based! Gotta get me some!
36:45 is def a biggie. Hard to fully appreciate cause to even be in a position to do hard things you’re overriding internal “no’s” all the time. You’re pretty much ignoring that voice. But to know when to really stop yourself is probably an art. IF you’re on that level where you’re overriding fear, over rising laziness, over riding logic etc...to be tough as nails and ballsy but also know when to stop is definitely a biggie like you’re acknowledging
I just watched this podcast this morning and it’s impacted my life in what I believe is going to be a transformative way and I want to leave with the proposal to build a submarine that could help Laird surf the biggest waves anyones ever seen. It’s a metaphor of course but I did work on a submarine. Thank you both for everything you do for humanity. I love you guys and I mean that. 💙
Such a great interview, Rich. Loved your questions, specifically regarding his relationship to water and the ocean. You could tell he fed off your lead and really clicked with you. Thank you for such great content! Laird’s energy and enthusiasm for life is contagious.
Im not a surfer ( yet ) however I dip my knees in the ocean at the pacific west coast ( cold ) and invigorating. Paddle boarding is most likely a better fit for an older gal like me. Anyhow, cheers on the podcast Laird.
This “guy” is a philosopher /psychologist in an athletes body. Being a minority as a child Has had a major influence I’m sure. Also being connected to nature
Hero worship. Laird was born with something most people don't have. No amount of copying his habits will ever make you into him. He's built on the things he was born with. You need to identify and build on yours, not his.
Hey Rich, sometimes you are forgetting to click a box or set something up when you upload these videos that allow for RU-vid's automatic closed captioning. I really need that. Most of the time it is there, but, like this video, the CC option doesn't appear on the bar and it makes it difficult for me to get the most out of the pod/vodcast. Thanks
Thanks for doing this Podcast. I have looked up to this amazing human for the best part of 30 years, when I started windsurfing. You produced a great interview, really enjoyed it. Thanks again.
It's been a while since I've watched one of Rich's podcasts. I like the YT idea of doing these. Rogan had a great thing going. Good one, like the new studio.
Mahalo nui loa! = >>> Thank you from The Heart! What a beautiful sharing with two incredible men, fathers, and life-artists: I love your celebrating having humility in Ko Hawai'i Pae 'Āina, yes; bowing to The Ocean's majesty, and her creatures; sensitivity to all our finned and feathered relations, like dolphins and hawks, yes! I learned these blessings training in and living Permaculture Design: Observe,.. then interact, co-creating mutually beneficial relationships. I moved to Big Island in May 2005, and to Maui on 11.11.2005. I left Maui after 15 years -- to move home to live in Scotland for the first time, as Native Hawaiians=Kanaka, standing on the Mauna, taught me it is time to go Home to walk with my ancestors, to invite reconciliation for the Famine of Ireland, and The Highland Clearances of Scotland: both designed and belligerently perpetrated to steal our families' flourishing homes being rooted, grounded and in fulfilling mutually beneficial relationships on our land. I humbly thank the people and mana=life force energy/magic of Hawaii for teaching me year-round for 15 years how Nature evolves abundance, beauty, clarity, diversity, resilience, dynamic stability and harmony by listening deeply, feeling and being Nature. I hope to bring these gifts to my Scottish and Irish Family. I was born in California, so this will be my first time going to live on my ancestral homelands. Living on Maui, I was always a visitor. Bless you all, Me Ke Aloha, = onward with Aloha, Claire ~ Founder, Maui Permaculture Network, MPN- since 2005.
