Laminate Floor Install - Select Surfaces 

@Susan Davis, thank you for this input. The padding on this flooring does work as a vapor barrier, but not an impervious one. That's why it's fine for a sub-floor, which I'm used to doing all the time, but not a concrete slab with possible moisture issues. And for liability issues they won't say vapor barrier, like watches are now water resistant, not water proof. With a cheaper laminate flooring you need to install a vapor barrier / padding even on a wood sub-floor. Because this one is seamed, it is obviously not impervious to possible moisture on a possible damp concrete. And that is something I forgot to mention. I will add notes to the video description for this. Thank you again. And if you are thinking about doing this flooring, here is my newer video on it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CXLVmNTy6n0.html 👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

I still use that same creeper. Here is my video on that. The audio isn't the best because it was before I was using a separate mic. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3L49Vh5qvTk.html

@@AroundTheHome1 right on and thank you bud. It's really a flippin great idea. These young bucks can laugh all they want. If they're lucky enuff to live as long as I have they'll understand why it's such an awesome thing to have. I'm fixing to do my entire home with this product. I may slap one together quick just for that. Lol

I hear you, I don't care if they laugh. I have even had someone comment that "real installers" wouldn't use such a thing. I plan on enjoying my later years, not waiting on surgeries. Hey, thanks for watching and good luck with your projects!

The flooring creeper is the best. Here is my video on that. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3L49Vh5qvTk.html Also, even though this video is on engineered hardwood, it has good tips for doorways and such. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-u78llQ-THfg.html

Very welcome! Here is another video that has some additional tips. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CXLVmNTy6n0.html

Sounds like a big project. First, here is my newer video on that. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CXLVmNTy6n0.html Hopefully there are some additional tips to help you out. The stairs will be a challenge, but don't let it scare you. I don't have a video on that I'm afraid. Not a lot different. You will need stair nose pieces and you will be doing a bit of face nailing to hold everything in place. Then just get some wood filler for the holes. Good luck with your project and feel free to ask more questions as you get going.

Welcome aboard! Glad I could help! Thank you for watching, and please share. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org/

I know, right?! Glad to help. Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com

👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org Here is a newer video on that. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CXLVmNTy6n0.html

I know, right!? Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com

Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com

Do you have the link for the creeper video? Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com

@@AroundTheHome1 yeah I saved it to my playlist. Thanks

Glad to help. Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com

You are so welcome! Glad it helped. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org/

Happy to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

Glad it was helpful! Thank you! 😊 And thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

Thanks, it has saved my knees for sure. 👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

You know, that's not a bad idea. My neck does get tired after a days work. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

Thanks, it really saves the back and knees.

A little plan, but not too much. 👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

Thanks, and the cart saves my knees and lower back. Can't and won't do flooring without it. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com

@JOJO JO, thanks for watching and for your comment. I can't directly tell you how it has held up because I installed this for a few of my customers. I can tell you that they all liked it and I haven't had any complaints about it. Also here is an additional video on installing it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CXLVmNTy6n0.html I hope that this helps you out on your decision for your flooring.

@@AroundTheHome1 Thanks so much for getting back with me. Will definitely watch your other videos as well :)

Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com

are you removing the baseboard molding or do you have enough room with removing the previous floor?

I am going to answer you on your other comment.

Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com

You’re welcome 😊

If I remember right this flooring has a beveled edge on it to show off the lines in the planks. But when snapped together you should not be able to put your fingernail between the planks. You can hit me up on my website on the contact page and send me a pic. www.greatwhiteninja.com

I don't think you will be able to score it, but I could be wrong.

Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com

Thanks for the questions. For your first question, you should be able to get any nose molding. But you might not find one that is cut to match the height of this flooring. Though, if you use the right thickness underlayment you should be able to line it up pretty well. The second question, yes you can do that but this is what I prefer. I prefer all the floors to line up flush with each other so there is no transition strips to trip over. I would suggest to use an underlayment to make both the tile and the laminate level. I guess unless there is just one small spot where the tile and laminate meet. But if it is a bigger spot, or multiple then making both floors the same height is really nice. Then if you cut the laminate really clean an leave a consistent gap of about 1/8" then you can use caulking between the two. Here is my newer video for that floor and it may help out more. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CXLVmNTy6n0.html and here is my video on engineered flooring where I talk more about underlayments. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-u78llQ-THfg.html The newer videos have chapters so it is easier to move around the video. If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask.

Merry Christmas! Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com

Newer video. May have additional tips for you. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CXLVmNTy6n0.html

Well, this is not in my own home. This was a customer of mine. But, as far as I know all of my customers that have this floor really like it. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com

@cathy shook I wish this video had a better example of that. But it didn't really happen in this room. Here is a newer video of me installing that flooring with a few more tricks. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CXLVmNTy6n0.html Though this video of me doing an engineered flooring has more tips for going under door jambs / ect. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-u78llQ-THfg.html I hope that helps you out with your project.

Start with the next largest wall, door or not.

Thank you, every wall has a door or counter.....thank you, you're answer was what I was thinking

That's a good question. It will make your flooring quite a bit higher then everywhere else. And you might even have troubles closing doors. I can't give you an exact answer without seeing your kitchen. Even though removing floors, especially tile, is hard and painstaking, I always recommend it. Keeping your flooring with one flowing height throughout your home is much better for both looks and functionality. But if you do want to know if it can physically measure out roughly 5/8 in and see what that does. You might even find a small board or something else that measures 5/8 in and see what it would look like to have that much more flooring down. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

Given that it is the first run, it will not cause trouble like a run in the middle of the floor. So it is up to you whether or not you want to mess with it. If you want to get it lock all the way back in and assuming that it is like half way in already, then you can remove the quarter round and then put a flat bar between the wall and the run and force it together. If you are at the very base of the wall you should have good leverage that will not damage the sheetrock. I hope this helps. If it is not at least half way in then you are kind of stuck and might just leave it be.

No, I don't believe it will. I mean, I have not seen a pool table on this flooring, but the manufacturer will warn against this. Any floating floor will warn against that. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

Oh I do see it though. Most people don't know this but new comments show up on top no matter how old the video is. Now what I probably won't see if you made a comment on someone else's comment.

Second, here is our newer video that will hopefully help out more. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CXLVmNTy6n0.html

Ok, now for your 4 part question. Wow, the baseboards go down to the subfloor? How old is your home? I ask this because I can't give a good answer to your question without knowing more. Do you have slat and mortar walls? There needs to be something over the edge of the flooring, but not because it will curl. Now it might lift up some on the starting and finishing ends so yes, something on top is good. There should also be a 3/16 to 1/4 inch gap all the way around and that gap should be covered by the trim. But given the knowledge that the current baseboard goes all the way to the subfloor I am thinking that you would be better off laying the flooring to the baseboard, leaving the appropriate gap, and then adding a quarter round on top. Hope this helps and good luck on your project. Feel free to ask more questions.

Thank you so much. Yeah, the house was built in the 60s. I was surprised to see there wasn't a gap and I really, really didn't want to have to take off the baseboards. We're gonna go with the quarter round. Just had a hard time finding some for a decent price, but managed to snag some 12' primed ones for 122 for a 30 pack. Really appreciate the advice and I'll check out the newer video, too. Thanks!

You are welcome. Good luck!

That depends on a couple of things. This flooring does have a pad built into it that can work as a weak vapor barrier. And on this install, I was in the second story of a house so no additional underlay or vapor barrier was needed. But if you were installing it onto a concrete slab or over a subfloor with a damp crawl-space then you should add a vapor barrier as well. I hope that answers your question. Here is a newer video of me installing this same floor with some more tips in it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CXLVmNTy6n0.html

I don't think a small block or large one will necessarily damage anything. It's more on how hard you are hitting it and if it is flat against the board or is it hitting it at an angle.

Well, they were for a customer of mine, but as far as I know they still love them. Thank you for watching, and please share. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org/

Julie, the gap that you are talking about it the sheetrock from the sub-floor. If I am wrong and there is another gap let me know. Not everyone has that, but it is common. The sheetrock is probably about 1/2 inch off of the sub-floor and you can see the 2x4 base plate of the wall. The flooring should slip under the sheetrock just fine if I am talking about what I think you are describing. If the flooring can slip under the sheetrock just fine then you will need that 3/16" gap from the base plate. You need that gap from whatever the flooring will touch on it's sides. I hope that makes sense. So you don't have to stick it all the way under the sheetrock, because the baseboard will cover. The 3/16" is a minimum gap for expansion. I truly hope that I answered your question for you. Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com

Under the warranty requirements I think that it is 16". If you are not concerned by that because you know that most companies try harder to void their warranty then honor it, then 12-13 inches is really ok. I have found no issues with pieces of that length. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com

Well, good luck with your project. Sounds like it could be a long one. Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com Also, I have a newer three part series that give some more tips starting with this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0E_f3HaPl5s.html

Yes it will. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org

When you are putting down a hard flooring, like laminate or hardwood and tile, you need to pull the baseboard up or install quarter round. In this instance, the homeowner preferred that we install the quarter round. Baseboard are normally installed about 1/2" above the sub-floor with carpet which is not high enough for hardwood, nor tile and hardibacker. It would have been high enough for this floor, but you can't wedge the flooring under the baseboard and make it lock with the other planks. So you have to choose, either remove the baseboard and then re-install it, or add quarter round. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com

You had carpet over ceramic tile? Or was it hopefully more likely some kind of vinyl tile?

Around The Home it’s vinyl tile.

There should be no problem with that. I would just address any tiles that may be loose.

Around The Home thank you. There’s a 2’x2’ spot with no tile. I’m going to get 1/4” plywood and cut it to fit in the square to level it up. Should be golden

Sounds good. Good luck with your project. Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com

It's not bad for it. Like all laminate floors, it does not like water. So you have to weigh that out in a kitchen area. Many people love it in the kitchen. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com

Yes it is the same. This flooring already has the vapor barrier / pad built in. Depending on your cement floor, if it is in a basement or has moisture issues some people seal the concrete first with a product like this. www.amazon.com/Drylok-27512-Latex-Water-Proofer/dp/B000LNUB82/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&keywords=drylok&qid=1590151185&sr=8-2&linkCode=ll1&tag=greatwhitenin-20&linkId=1fb25fcb0814aafb37e0ef058628f3ce&language=en_US Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com

@@AroundTheHome1 thanks for the info. My house is a ranch. One story no basement.

Ok, sounds great. So sealing the concrete is just optional. Good luck on your project.

@@AroundTheHome1 thank you so much.

@@AroundTheHome1 Just for clarification... This board does have a 2mm foam backer, but it is not a vapor barrier sufficient for installing on concrete surface. If you want to install on concrete, you will need to purchase an additional 6mm vapor barrier padding in addition to the backer of this laminate.

It has held up great. Here is a newer video on it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CXLVmNTy6n0.html

I do say 3/16" gap in the video, and that may be a little tight sometimes. My gap is honestly normally at least 1/4". I have had no problems with my gaps causing any buckling, but they say that for their warranty. Many building product companies look for as many ways as they can to void their own warranty. A 5/8" gap is ridiculous. They know that no one makes gaps that big so that is one easy way to void the warranty. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com

1

That was for older homes when you were installed solid hardwood over decking. Not only was this installed over standard 3/4 in subfloor, but it is laminate and not nailed in. Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com

You know, I really don't know what you mean by install these in reverse. If you have other hard floors that this butts up against, just install an underlayment first to make sure that the final product is the same height as the other floors. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com

Just a normal miter saw. Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com

Yes, very much so. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to stop by our website www.greatwhiteninja.com

The manufacturer for Select Surfaces requires a 6mil polyethylene vapor barrier (below is the exact text from the manufacturer). Home Depot and Lowes sell 6mil 'plastic sheeting' that is perfect for this. From the manufacturer: Concrete subfloors must be properly cured and allowed to dry for at least 60 days prior to installation. Test the concrete subfloor for moisture prior to installation. An 6 mil (0.15 mm) polyethylene vapor barrier must be used when installing over concrete. Overlap vapor barrier edges by 8 in (20 cm) and seal with moisture resistant adhesive tape. Run vapor barrier 3/4 in (2 cm) up wall and trim after wall base is installed.

Better then others because of the rubber flap. If you get the spills / pet messes up soon, it should be fine. But if they sit it will cause trouble with any laminate floor.

Kay, I hear your frustration. No, I literally can feel it from this comment. Even though I didn't have my camera available when I started this video, I believe that I show how to install each row pretty well. With your 1 you just lay 2 planks down and snap the ends together. When you do this make sure that they are perfectly in line with each other. I do have the longer lip facing me instead of the wall. That is the normal way to install most laminates, and it works just fine for this one as well. I have installed probably 3 of these floors at the time of this video. If the instructions say to face the longer lip towards the wall then just take a couple of planks and line them that way. Then try and start a second row and see of the planks can easily lock together. If not, I think that you can see that my way works.

Glad to help. Thanks for watching and don't forget to stop by our website for many more helpful videos. www.greatwhiteninja.com

Thank you for watching, and please share. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org/

I think my newer video will have more of what you are looking for. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CXLVmNTy6n0.html I did have a pop up link in this older video for it, but here is that link again.

@@AroundTheHome1 thank you the "Snap type" from Sam's Club. Is hard to get 1st two started

I don't believe so. I mean a little harder then the rows afterwards, but not hard. My son-in-law just put this in a couple of weeks ago and used this video. He did a great job. Here is my video on engineered hardwood. Now, I know this is not snap together, but it has a good section on thresholds and other hard areas. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-u78llQ-THfg.html

I have a handful of customers that have had this for years and love it. Sorry to hear that you had troubles with it.