No video :(

Land Rover LR3 Rear Brake Line Fix (Hard Lines)

Подписаться 6 тыс.

Просмотров 7 тыс.

50% 1

A quick video showing where you can splice into the factory hard brake lines running to the rear of the vehicle. It took me a while to figure it out so I thought it might help to share. I ended up running new lines to both rear brakes. The brake line is 3/16" line and I went for copper line. You can pick brake line up at your local auto parts store and I would get the longer length sections (at least 6 feet). I also bought a brake line double flare kit, brake line cutter, fittings/couplers, and dot 4 brake fluid. Hope this helps. There are tons of videos on RU-vid on how to flare the lines and bleed your brakes. Its easier than you'd think.
Thanks for checking out this video!
Like & Subscribe
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Airsoft Channel: / @tangoz9823
Camera Gear:
Camera I use: amzn.to/3lWs6ec
Camera Lens: amzn.to/3fjQwMp
GoPro Hero 8: amzn.to/3kQjapC
Gimbal: amzn.to/35WweFP
Land Rover Gear:
Traction Boards: amzn.to/2HmOuhU
Coil Suspension: amzn.to/336qEi0
Tires: amzn.to/3fnDGgg
Wheels: amzn.to/36URStb
This list will be updated constantly.

Опубликовано:

27 авг 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 18

@jamesray3920 Год назад

I just done the same location but trying bend lines in same orientation not easy but as long as it clear any rubbing points if you have one area that's bad trust there is more just as well buy 25 feet of line with plenty of unions , game changer is eastwood on car flaring tool 3/16 same double flare very easy tool to make flare in some tight places

@thecarchannel2896 3 года назад

this is exactly what I need todo on my l320 !! thanks for the tips haha

@Flyright07 Год назад

Thank you. Same line, same spot for me. Great help!

@sydneywicks3747 3 года назад

Great video as always but you can buy 1/4 brake pipes that don’t cost much £16 per side and they go to the last back box which just drop the exhaust which is a 15 nut and then rubber hangers move the heat shield and it’s a factory repair just Need too flare it and then they have all the correct bends and you wouldn’t be able too tell they have been repaired

@ty_zib 3 года назад

You are correct. I did see those replacement lines. I wasn't anticipating having to replace that much. We are getting winter weather here now and couldn't really wait for shipping either. My other car doesn't see snow lol Thanks for the comment!

@TheJessesmartin 2 года назад

Do you still need to splice these factory lines above the exhaust area?

@AllForTheBetter 3 года назад

mine busted close to the same spot as yours. I just ran new flex line all the way back.

@ty_zib 3 года назад

Nice! I'm just hoping this helps point anyone needing help in the right direction 👍

@TheJessesmartin 2 года назад

What flex line did you go with and is it still working fine?

@AllForTheBetter 2 года назад

@@TheJessesmartin I'm not sure exactly what type of line it is. I had a hydraulic line shop in town custom make them for me. And yeah they are still working great.

@Efree65 Год назад

Couple of questions, are the original pipes steel, not copper of cunifer? and what flaring tool did you use, because I am having no luck flaring the original factory pipes.

@Jacksongamma Год назад

I used some cheap $50 din one on Amazon. I haven’t tested the brakes themselves yet but I did the flare laying on the ground under the truck on the old line. I found that I will never get anything close to a decent flare unless I seriously Debur the edges and make the flaring surface very round. I used a file and got it super clean and round. Then I had a pointy file and stuck it in the whole to make sure the surface was a clean circle to be ready to get flared. It is really hard to get a good flare especially holding the cheap clamps and trying to turn the yolk into the line. Being on the ground with barely any space doesn’t help. Let me know how it goes.

@RichardFrost800 3 года назад

Did you drop the exhaust for access or bend the existing pipe down to flare.

@ty_zib 3 года назад

Bent the existing line down to flare then tucked everything back up

@Jacksongamma Год назад

So if I’m understanding correctly; you pulled Down the factory original line, cut it, threw a union fitting on, then flared it? And then after that you just ran a new piece of brake line with 1 fitting going into the union, and the other going into the brake hose? Is that correct?